The Wingham Advance Times, 1926-10-28, Page 5r
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Many Things Must Be Found To. Fill the
Wardrobe Trunks'- Boxes
g Wille Be
Colle e Bound -All Through
the , Season.
HE college term maybe, eve
now, well under way; or .i
may be just beginning. Bu
n ;is; more or less, at the mercy of
t the laundries,. There should. be,
t also, an ample supply of the'danty'•
one's' need of ;fashion knowl
e .notend •it a r-
e e os h t u
dw h
p
chase of 'the' first outfit, for two
obvious reasons. It is too early -to
be sure'•just what fashion will "final=
ly'decide upon; ,purchases made too
early may prove; unsatisfactory: in
the .light of ,newer- offerings. •And
the girl about •toenter college may
not be exactly sure what her 'nee'ds
will •be,
'She may find that: she has under-
estimated or overestimated in some'
of the most important things; she
may have nd s
eglecteome'needs' en
tirely;`and -there,is.much3of interest
in anticipation, and • pleasure,'rtoo.
Styles change' so" rapidly that; no, one
ever -thinks' of purchasing an'outfit
to last: an entiresemester-dresses
no longer hang in;the. closets ;die,
as in days of yore. ` They are .used
while they,areof',the mode,'and
thus the wardrobe is "kept up-to-
the-minute. • '
Quite.;as important as position in
her classes, is'. the epoSielaint oP the,
college girl in the social life of col-
lege. ; ,It Is a part: of her, academic
training,. nowadays,. this serious..
business of making, friends -and:
the freshman," especially,,'is" sub-
mitted'• to' a' test quite as severe as
her .entrance„ examinations. , Just'
as you study materialse in,. relation
to your frocks .and suits,'so:do the
•'classme stud ou in re a -
uppery y1
tion o the,various activities' of.co1'-
leg :life. You must ;succeed • sar-
i1 Y of course..., •
Ily,
- Certain Items Are Pamdatnentals
You, may have, selected, For you
may be 'about to select,. the.under
things and boudoir, apparel that are
fundamentals of every sdhool..girl's
wardrobe, and should' be generously
;provided. There should'be a`suf-
ficient' number of the•athletic'com-
binations for every -day use—they
d
withstan, the rigors'" of frequent
laundering excellently well, and 'wee
chemises and other garments that
complement, and underlie; `the
semi -formal and formal thing's of
`the. wardrobe. •
Perhaps the'• most important
thing, fee,early fall, is thee.coat:;and
the sports- outfit-withthe 'notable
exception of class room; attire..
There are. evening events of. more.
or less formal, mien, but, not as
many as there will be later,; when
.the out-of=doors is less . alluring.
And through the fall there are; the
`games! There is bound • to' be :'a'
,utility coat, perhaps two, of !the,
serviceable sort, extremely jaunty,`
notwithstanding :requirements, of,
'practicality, . There will be at.,least
one coat for wear before; fur. coat,
weather, and on warm days;during
fur coat time.
Tweed is important in utility coat
fashions. They are loosely woven,
but' they are•warm, and "they.?ar'e
straight. of line belted, usually—
and often often collared with fur, though
quite as „often not., There are smart
`pockets and numerous strappings
and the fabric Is decorative with
'diagonal 'mixtures; shaded' effects;,
tu
Dr colorful plaids. The picred
coat of simple lines and .quite: un -
'trimmed is typical, It is; an excel-
lent campus coat arid .• may `' be
smartened by a .colorful" scarf on
occasions.
„Fur -Lined ,And Ail -Fur Coats
.For several seasons now the .fur
Goat has been a:staple ,of the.col-
legee girl's wardrobe. It is"a'sport
•type of coat, made of sturdy furs—
as! raceoote anupkrat, ledpard,r and
the furs , kin to there.. Loose—so
inlet ia may, be worn over a, tailored
;suit,. If .desirable; and•.simple, of
.ills, such a coat is often cuffed and
'odllared''with ' a contrasting "far.
Again we have a typical `coat of the
sports type pictured. aelslarte • the
leather buttons and the,pockets—
`set 'slantwise for variety.
The'early.fall showings presented
for:g"enerai' approvala'new ,.version
of the. hitherto bulky fur -lined coat,
and it wi12 prove a worthy• rival'
of the' coat made entirely • of. Jur.
,Certain •versions of it are shown
asworthy rivals to the dress •coat
of ,clotty or fur, and they are, in
instances: of this sort, made of soft,
sned'e-finished materials, with .the
fur elevarly' worked in the lining
to:assure.a slender silhouette. .But
the °models offered for sports ,and
,general, campus wear. incline to
tweed, lined With coney, dyed Ate
snatch the pattern of 'the fabric, or.
with . kid or muskrat,.
,Of.sweaters there will be an im-
posing array, for the sweater, is al-
most" a Uniform' on certain . sports'
,occasions.. It may, be ,slipover type,
or a cardigan,' the latter newer,
and, extremely. popular: It mar be
striped horizontally, and worn with
a'sk'irt in the same 'bolter as tie;
stripes or the'background;'°„ or' it
may be patterned,in any one of
'many interesting ays. And for
chill fall ;days—one is in .no burry
to put on the fur coat—there .is`a.
sports coat of split cowhide—very
smart!
Frocks, Seemingly, "Go To PIeces"
'::For travel, 'for theclass room,.
for ; a score of day -time activIdee,,
there'must be a number of one and
two-piece' dresses in practical .ma-
terials. .It is apparent, at the out-
set, ;that the two-piece dress Is the
favorite, probably because of the
possibilities of combination, one
part with another. :Proof of • this
appears in the preference shown
the model that is really two pieces,'
in competition with the one-piece
model that simulates the two-piece.
style.
•These little dresses are very sim-
ple, but very smart, -usually straight
of "line, smartened by style details
'of felt arid clever buffs and collar.
They, are, . invariably, `long-sleeved;'
short%l'eeves are .wholly out of the
fashion picture for correct day -time
'wear:' Jersey is a favorite material.
and .,there are certain wash silks
and crepes that prove, practical.
Wool crepe is represented, and
much' of -the beauty of the dress
,By .. Wayof Decoration
ASHION, this year, gilds' the
lily. She t a s f fa ” i'
a' e s ' rich
br c,
and beautiful; woven in 'colors
little' short' of inarVellout, and
to their -beauty 'adds' the eery' bf
intricate'decoratiee' work' that is' so'
subtly deiveloled that' it enhances,
accentuates,' but does ` not overdo:
Which Ise in' itself,' proof that laws
are -made, in the mode; 'for ''the
pleasuredesigners get out of break-
ing them. Triininings"are exquisite,
andtheir• absorlition into' the mode
le a mast inspirikig process.
Sviany " of the,' imported models,
developed 'in ' the season's smartest
fabrics and colors, are selfett1me
'Me They are creations in line;
in apings, in clever style' details
o :cape,' the bolero, the
•
hip -
le; p-
lotucking, pleating 'ma band-
In-these
a T -
In -these models=the:.fabric is
per fitted to rest on its la'uue1s,' the.
Tatter well uesereed 3ut the trr
triinmd
e model is 'rarer than : the
tete that is trnimed for there ate,
aega
kee
ebud{eieedieei
Seemingly, quite as niany'.ways of
trimming frocks 'tea there'are frocks
to trim,.
Embroidery is the meet' usual
decorative impulse, .and aiong,with
embroidery goes applique—they are
fr .uentl combined. ell's' he' mediurns
eq . y f.0
?or doth are marry, and; scarcely,
anything usable � Is: from
ble omitte d
.the het o.f working materials, But
much of the beauty lies, In ,the
ham u
'r onto s and effective use' of
color., and . the choice• of motifs,
rel
With fashion combing. fo gn 1 arid-. s
Wand •.historical . cloths and : other
sources; and with master dyers vie-
ang. With each: other in ,the; produc-
tion of unusual 'tints, possibilities
are 'endless. •
ce Is alw sat possi-
bility,
ay trimming s p
bf lity, axed just now it is a fact.
lloctionf e Tacos ro
Co s s o fine e ,f mhich w
You may croo'se' include not only
.the real laces: but many imitations,
n excelloht that they
y of hen t • -i •, ee
tn. ,'ryraNwr
would deceive any but an; expert.
.Real 'Ducheese, Rose Point .Point
de Binche; Point Venise, and Valen-
ciennes . are among the . approved
'patterns, walla , the demands of
'fashion are met by wonderful as=
sot•tments' of metal laces—allovers,
Insertions, flo s g g unee and ed- in s..
EvenIn'g calls forth the newly
approved fronds o,f ostrich -1n
flounces; in tassels; as a medium
ofembroidery. One ;may purchase
pailettee and trimmings kin ,to this
form' of decoration by :the yard
there are silk floral trininiinge • In
basket and bouquet designs --very
Preach; wonderful flowerorna-
ments and .rhinestone motifs. And
for general use there are 'the fur
bandings'that are to be had in dem
enable trimming widths, quantity
by no moans harming quality. The
rae Inclaaes both
.the sturdy and
the •' fragile r .i i
.fagle f u s..t4 th, i 'lees in
proporti'eri .'
p p 1
• itself may lie in its decorative col-
• The valueof the two-piece frock
mode is well illustrated..In the one
model • we have ,a 'skirt . of ; solid
•color,:made in the -approved' sports
or day -time fashion, worn with . a
jumperof wash,' silk, the fabric
horizontally striped, : one of . the
stripes repeating t1'ie color <of'the
skirt. In the other •model.a-skirt,
finely pleated across the front, ap-
pears, and with It a jumper of nov-
elty wool, very 'coarsely woven. is
worn. The skirt of the jumper; the
collar and the cuffs are 'fringed;
,there is a• touch-of'velVet-and 'a
belt. . Other blouses can beworn
with either skirt.
..-For • More 'Formal Occasions
When occasionarises and a dress
of the more formal type is, needed
there skiould'be restrainedladorn-:
ment .combined with a wise choice:
of material. There should never be
over -elaboration on any of tae col-
lege girl's .frocks, and this. is'spe-
cially ' true when the chole .,is- for
wear during the day. Crepe satin;
crepe de: chine and Georgette'`crepe
are wise fabric choices, and.atten=
tion should be 'specially directed, to
color' and lines, once , fabric' has
been chosen. All the flee `details
of the general mode have ''place.
The cape,, the bolero; the'blouse,.
even the somewhat sophisticated
dolman sleeve 'maybe' used. -in the
formal frock for festive occasions.
Bleak so very. popular jus now
with Mother, may nave a place'1n
the wardrobe of D , •
aughtercollege-
bound.: It will'be;very:yputhfui 'in'
its cut and it''will be elaborated
with a decorative' bit of color, ,or, It
May be' girdled with velv•et and
wear collar, and cuffs of fine .ems
boideries'and•lace-in beige:' Espe-
cially 'lovely
spe-cially'lovely for youth are two ;of
the new colors—jungle' 'green and
Chanel red, and navy is both smart
and practical.,' .' ,
• 1Evening occasions `demand eve-
ning dress, and : chiffon, tulle,
Georgette and taffeta answer the
demand, materially speaking. Ruf-
fles and frills become the slender -
nese of, youth, and thereis beauty
in the many adaptationsof the robe
de style, so ab
used by maturity.
What ievelier•thati the niodern,,giri
in the old-time -silk wlth its non -
gays of flowers; trlmtned, Man old-;
fashioned way',with velvet ribbons'?
The 'neck Is unadorned; there's a
bow.wlth. longends on one shoul-
der; there's ea/lower, and touches
and 'edging of ttietal lace. Deninre,
yet lovely, isn't it'?
DID YOU ' kNOW r
CHAT it ors are -a.
y Very, very. smart
Ott Ill lin.
Will wear in a sim re
y g p
Brien handkerchief with a' gait
work monogram, hand -embroidered
in ono corner? n Ancloil Will havey 1
this handkerchief ordered teeyou
.1t'eeet tion; P tis where fine hand
work is"always so sleilfully aerie.
Tii4T"fail sports everi'tsareagain
attracting attention to the walking
stick that is, so necessary .a part
of every .English, sportsman's --or
sportswoman`s equipment? Sturdy
and light, they are the delightof
the onlooker :. at .' golf, • matches,
races and the like..
THAT sharp fall , days, .with:. a
-tang 'in :the• air; •have inaugurated
the, fashion . of the sports coat :of
split cowhide ? r' It ,is; made •with .a
yoke effect and fasten :in the
mascuiine.,manner with. three 'smart
buckles. Theresa.plaid collar and
cuffs and flap pockets.; ' -
/SHAT the trend toward luxurious
fabrics,and. two •'fab'rics and two
color combinations,' is '- responsible
for the fashion" of, the brocade or
lame blouse worn ''with a: skirt, of
plain material?' Velvet or velveteen
,may be used: in- the combination
mosteffectively for rich fabrics are
vggli e."
TEAT the fashion of velvet is
quite likely to -rifle the mode? It
melees frocks and=wraps, and hats;
it trims or it combines with another
material;,' and • newest 'of• all,' it
makes swagger envelopes for after-
noon wear, taking amiliques'of gold
for trimming. •
It Will, Be IA 'Velvet 5etlsOn-iVit-
ness—A' Two -Piece Suit :Of •
• Plts '<'•;cred Clairton Verve's.
Gloves Beautiful—For Fal
NY" accessory must meet sever
demands In an adequate we
before it Is finally accepted b
the woman Who follows closely th
trend of rash.=• And gloves, to, b
synonymous with correctness, me
be perfection : in style, teXtur.
workmanship arid.' the suave sot
nets'° of their eoloring-the latte
made imperative by the dictates Q
a season that is stressing subtl
harmonies in color, OriginaIit
must not be crude, but sophistic
eated in its effect, and: the stria
niceties of fit and finish must polo"
the way to individuality, �t
The newest gloves reveal som'r
interesting fashion points, but pe."
mit of variety, whether it be
tailored or dress glove' you :are
Choosing. For general wear yo,'
will find that :some ;type of til?;
washable glove is satisfactory, ail
there 1s a'choice of leathers in the
style of handwear. Suede, mocha,
glace .kidskins, capeskin, chamois;
and doeskin—these are typical; ant,
they are to be had In the siipove
style—known as Biarritz --novels;'
cuff styles and buttoned gloves.
Again it will not be fashion
fault if you choose unwisely, unles*
she is blamed for her prodigailte
A. single display of gloves shower
fcur score styles of the slipovers'
as many cuff styles, many of her.`
very tailored in their effect; an
half a hundred clasp and butte,;;
models. Add to this'list the rnan
colors and shades of colors in
each style is 'to be had; with ti,
varying use ofcolor for decora
tion. and you cannot doubt, the;
there is variety.
The new, bright tones are intro"
duced cleverly into trimming motif::
Many of them would be' Nardi
usable, were the color too gene'?
ously used, but live tones, carefully;`
applied to delicate tones, prove et'
fective. Some of the most beautil:
ful, and costly, of the fine hand
wear show exquisite embroiderie'
done in metal threads or bead :;
against a background of soft tenet;;
kid.' The possibilities of a suecesse
ful choice of gloves are many -Tip'
it. is well to bear in mind that th
possibilities of an unsuccessfn
choice are just as many.
The eyes of the smart world-''
and very keen eyes they are --art;,
focused on the Oxford as th
smartest fall shoe fashion. Ii
some version or other it may b
worn with the tailleur,' or wad
frocks of more formal mien, when,
they are possessed of a careful.;'
atudied'simplicity.
-of
N';all four corners of the fashion
world women acclaim the new
fabrics. And why should they
'not? Fall presentations of the
mode reveal gorgeous materials in
which both colors and weaves are
born anew, arid there 13 opulencs
in the favored textures. It is hard
to say just what has been the in-
spiration of these fabrics, but in a
measure that is beside the point.
It is sufficient for us that they in-
terpret the simplicity, or the luxury
as the case 'may be, of the mode
of the bear.
In general, fabrics, are lustrous,
rich, supple. each length is a mas-
terpiece in 'itself, and some of the
offerings come from looms that are
world famous. Or colors, more
anon, but it is enough, for the pres-
ent, to say that, both materials and
shades provide the excuse for fash-
ion's flair ,for two -fabric and two-
color combinations.' :. And there are
so many opportunities- offered for
effective combinations that` variety
is assured. And variety is. the most
desirable characteristic in all gen-
eral fashion.
en-eralfashion.
In: a .way the crepes, satins and
silks have, shadowed wool, the past
few falls and winters, just as they
have shadowed cotton through the
summers. But attention is again
focused on woolens because of the
beauty of the jerseys, flannels, reps,
kasha cloths, wool crepes and
novelty wools that are being of-
fered. Crepalla and jersey are
greatly in demand' for sports
frocks; kasha cloths are used by
the most prominent, of the Parisian
couturieres; and . velveteen,. plain,
printed, checked, adds novelty to
the wool situation.
Mention must . be . made of the
new broadcloth, for It is a high
light among the new fabrics, and
so very soft and supple is its weave
that' it:sometimes resembles a chif-
fon velvet=which.. leads us, logical-
ly, to the most fashionable fabric
of all. There.is no gainsaying, the
fact that velvet leads . the ';lode,
materially speaking. Nothing takes
Dolor quite like this beautiful stuff,
ands the texture of this- season's of-
ferings Is wenderfully fine and sup-
ple. it is more than Usually adapt-
able to the 'mode.
• Least of all in the loveliness of
velvet is the usual chiffon dress
type although, were It not.stibjected
to comparison it would- be easily
queen of fabrics. There are the
lovely broche • velvets and metallic
velvet , broohes; ,velvet Georgette
broches; and Inany' novelties. Ex-
pressing the beauty erd'the chiffon
velvets,'the two-piece suit pictured
utilizes a flowered` pattern, and it is
combined with two tones of satin,
In the Same shade as the material,
thus -exemplifying ' the two -fabric,
two-color theme. . •
There teems no end to the list
of crepes and silks frdrn which one
may •choose her favorite shade and
weave. There are some really beau-
tit
al s a n -back crepes i x ti p s anti crepe-
back satins; ,and there are the fa-
miliar crepe de chiues,•Canton and
le. ,_ i ,g.
faille crepes;. not for�ett na, a most.
attract; o .wdavo that Is lcnoty as
v tl
frosted arena ;Crepe Elleabeta Is
The Leopard May Not change its
Spots, But It Transfers Them,
This Time To Velveteen •
present, and crepe Georgette, and
of late chiffon, has. appeared in the
roster of crepes. There is no fall-
ing off in the .popularity of the
sheer, crepes for• semi -formal ' and
formai attire.
Moire' silk is popular and there
are ,some exquisite. patterns . of it.
Satin is never really absent from
the list;' and,is' valuable in tithe
Autumn 'triod; Lovely in. their
place, the • meta.11ic fabrics have at-
tained a position of prominence,
and one may choose from exquisite
metals''1n patterns' of great 'beauty.
and rare eelolings. ,There are many
motifs, 'bota largo and small, and
many of the pieces are reminiscent
of rich,' mediaeval fabrics— rare,
cid. One promptly characterizes
them as beautiful; one Inay . also
add,•they are smart,
One applies the term "delectable"
to colors, this fall, and it is by no
Means as far-fetched as ; it nxay
sound, espeeially,when such Shades
as "eggplant" ansa "olarat.red"" are
listecl,;r+al1 colors ;nay be generally.
listed as wine, e 'vurpl
_ ,green, 'blue,
brown,,thee pastels and black --epee
alai emphasis at this writing placed.
on black, But there are many tones
o; these cefort arid many shades
quite as much one, color as_ another
Sometimes the name suggests tie,'
color or the shade of it; agai:
there is no possible connection an._
parent. "Autumn" or "Rustic
brown and "Raisin" beloii to th'
former group, as -does turquoise ani
the nasturtium shades; but one mai
classify Valencia blue, Aladdin am
Bokhara red only when sheha.`.
been formally introduced to it. I'
fact, it may, not be the same Shad;
on two color cards, for seldom, a
ever, do dyers, agree•..= the exac''
tone. It is not advisable to bu;,
colors by name.
During the fall, months We ex
pect the warm, rich tones of Aix
tumnal flowers and foliage. Man,,
of these tones will pass, when wina
ter comes, demanding, especlall{;:
for the out-of-doors, the shade:
that are best. when silhouette+
against the background of that sea.
son. It is quite imperative tha
colors be consistent with the set'
ting that nature provides for•theml
and while the sane general color
may prevail, the exact tones o•
them will be different:
You will find that, in a genera':
way, colors and fabrics differ radia l
ally for day -time and evening ocr
casions. What isappropriate fon
daylight is- inappropriate for wen=
when "lamps are lighted," There
are sunshine and dark day an(',
artificial light materials, and colors:
as well. In the material world W"::
have broadcloth and velvet as higi,
lights. The latter, in some form
lives through the entire day. Jer'
sey, crepella and velveteen are the
first choice for the sports mode
although there is, apparently, at
boundary: set for sports attire—
one wears it on every possible oc,
casion.
The crepes are important; chit.'
fon is favored for evening wear,
velvet and the metal brocades
Plain metals and lames for forma
dress; lace is another eveninb
fabric; and tulle and taffeta me
valuable when it is a college gir
or a debutante seeking an evenint
frock. One may say, with niter(
than a little surety; that lavishness
even opulence, is the keynote of alta
fabric mode for even the simple;
materials are so beautifully woyaw
that they take on a semblance 'oi'
luxuriousness.
Colors in review—black headin
the list! Blue is extremely populal
and shades , of. it range from the
familiar navy—for street ' ane'
morning wear, to the very pales';
tones—for evening wear. trove/it
are proininentiy Featured in Wool.
ens; there are many shades of.
nasturtium, some appropriate to
day wear and some to evening;, and
the deep red wine tones arid•'tled,
pastels, as well as shades We knoefe
as wall -flower nerances,are 11eta4
+e ab d
Metallic fa
brics bid fair to .res:
some an important positiotl, Ifs
both the daytime and the evealilog,
mode.a
Tl b ro
ca.des and larAux
are :leach featured, and ;the 0. 1,
little need of deeora:tibri'When Oa,
fabric is s� very ornilrt lnj al ft
itself. Beads sometir efe trine pat�
that rnav be ,called blends, being clothe.
IiLa.i�l'"in.i..•a.i .. .•.,t.rd,.G, eil a1, ��i61 �lXn
4