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The Wingham Advance Times, 1926-09-30, Page 5t: Magazine Section irnwo vogues of the Monapnt AS 3ION experts send insistent cables :from Paris—the fashion source. One has to do with the vogue for the tailored satin gown, the other with the vogue for black —in instances the one overlaps the other. Both include in their many presentations the fine points pf the. fall mode and all itp distinctive variations, Lines and treatments aro new, each model is wholly tin- like anything with which we are familiar,' and these style points. are shown to especially smart advan- tage on the special models in the newest fabrics. So often are we told that black is enjoying an . unprecedented vogue, that it has a familiar sound —and tails is one of the timesi It is correct for any daytime or eve- ning occasion, and materials are ,chosen with an eye to their appro- priateness foxthe hour, Black setin is the choice for the one or two-piece dresses chosenfor ''in- formal daytime wear -it is here that; this vogue crosses the vogue for the tailored satin frock. Black chiffon is the fabric that goes to luncheon or tea—even to the din, ner followed by dancing. And., autumn has a deal to say concerning the moire frockthat ie i comparatively simple—its material i is its own adornment ---and pos• sensed of the utmost elite. Velvet, has already tirade its appearance in evening frocks, in hats and in trim- mings. And the black velvet hat picture -type, is a necessity in the form'a1 wardrobe. And a satin frock is a necessity in the informal wardrobes It must be perfect in its unadorned simplicity, exquisite In fashion, and meticulous in its tailoring. Crepe satin is the approved weave and it is combined with the reverse side. It is supple and makes either the one or the two-piece frock well, the latter finding many variations of the right and the wrong side possible. Occasionally there is the contrast of a bit of moire ribbon at neck and cuffs. Other models include the a?ireedee. gown with the skirt forming a cir- cular flare, the bloused model With a draped, tie -in -front • girdle sash, and the tunic dress with double - tiered underskirt. The popularity of the "Coolie coat" is growing constantly. It is used as an evening wrap or for a, boudoir coat, coming in many very gorgeous patterns and colorings. , One, ooksBackOnAn.Interesting.Fash- much for the combination. Just ion Trail Butthe i now there is a carefully nurtured j Ah � the f or- t,��' �a�! 1-I��eC�� vogue for moire and satin, suer, more': unusual than the latter _ oncein so h h a ears every. . A.�'� Even,.More Alluring _.,.,..tv is , _Ala.... Y ,:• a And �• often in � the fashion picture. black is enjo$ing popularity, like- EWS of what the Paris open- t, ings contained is being re-' layed to every country in the e• world where . 'women show eve . the slightest interest in that ne a,' For the most part it is eon- fiinting,.for the variety ot the just passed summer season was as nbth- Ing •compared to the variety of the new offerings and it. will ., prove; somethingof a task to separate the wheat from -the chaff'at this time,. In a way It',is'quite impossible, for even designers do . not agree on many of the points that are always raised' at the beginning of a new season. - Any'mew mode: is .the result of growth, and the days no longer. exist when the winter mode or the summer mode can be set down succinctly in .a few pages. ! The ' best' one can do is tostudy ten- dencies, and study. them with her own individual problems in view. Some miles of untrod' ways 11e' be- tween the cross roads where'fash ion' is standing and the ultimate. mode, -even fashion' itself 'is .'not sure which paths-tgill,beepleasaet- i reatest appeal makethe or pl est, g , to the hordes that follow: Of this •much we ••may• be vir- FBII UMMER is•' hard ' on ' one's S e is nthefir'st r t ear and p 'foo w daysh i e -.'the need' alt'ention • toz of � en p astiffs 'mast ia- portant accessory.. Warr 'weether r. f i ht '.and o f t ks-1i lit o we g g ' e .necess ar the :type of `mad Yp c�' y ole shoe that kept to .the, spirit, of the costume, and it will not becorrect for the incidental, 'between-seas,oir _dress or' the , smart. little tailored suit. Colors for fall are rich' ,and ' discreet, and ,there is a. deal . of black, and the fashionable fabrics are heavier. Both iniltience the new slice fashions. When colors include, blaok,,navy, odd greens' and t1 e'wine'reds—the logical •inference is -black shoes: And there is always a'brief for the black •shoe -it doeg.:not"belong to. one costume, but "play be worn with several; it isa1RWays in excel - tent taste, and it is not the `dell,' ugly thing that many, .consider it. The selection in black shoes is very "`'wide,, and sotne .of • the, best talent of the,, designers of footwear' has been Pet into it. On" occasions it wears trimming of reptilian leather or colored kid, ' ' ' 13u1 before one: chooses color or leather, she must decide ori the type of shoe and the last, the lits ter, as well as the, former, 'tidied - leg height, both of shoe and heel, length of vamp and Width of toe. In a measure her choice of vette, heei.and toe, will depend upon the shepo •of her foot and the height 1,f is arch, but,feelfien preserlhet. t sin • laws, hardly more than to , �enoies, that influence, 'When it IS ossible., And thio fall there are several of these tehdencieiy, i e in The Oxford is again a stapl the elite meas and it is doubly tvOlCome Ueeallee we have learned ri?ine Finieb, Graceful Linea',ttre- Wally sure—there will be variety of the sort that assures general satisfaction; and the mode will not restrict us to a single silhouette, which is the one fundamental • where there should be variety,' if wothen are to be generally 'well- dressed, and'' are riot to preeent the appearance of a uniformed gath- ering. And there is promise of. variety in colors and their use, in trimmings and in the woeking out of harmonious costume effects., „ The Fabric. And Color Situation The weavers and dyers of fine fabrics -have done their work, so' fax as the mode.' is' concerned, and are making ready for the 'season that is 'months ahead on the cal- endar. The shops •are stocked with fine fabrics, and color cards have been ,carefully made, up and proffered to fashion. But the choosing is yet to be done, and surprises will, probably follow as a result of the process.'. Certain materials will take on prominence and become a vogue, and certain shades will do thesame. will Onlyp timero ve the value of the offerings, that'use two colors —the solid colors 'may prove„too twe •r. wise navy, likewise the wine reds and some unusual shades of green. But six weeks from now these ma- terials and colors may, be passe, and others be the up-to-the-minute dh oice. It is too early to choose the win- ter wardrobe, but for the casual frock, the,.usual suit, or the ins-, perative coat, there must be a knowledge of what was best liked and most . used of the models in the advance fail openings. And already one may feel reasonably sure of , the silhouette, that is, the more conservative, one, or ones, The Flare, The Blouse, Straight Lines • The abrupt flare, that many de- plor'ed, has resigned in favor of the kinetic silhouette that pos- sesses width at tlie hembut falls in, straight lines when not in mo- tion. Pleats—very fashionable— best express this idea, for they fall; straightly, rippling into fulness when the wearer moves, Circular skirts are approved, and one may readily figure for herself what fol- lows when the fabric is supple. Andthere are narrow, straight•ltne graceful of line than its ancestor, but it is practical and dependable, ord just the same.The Oxf is popular for another reason—gar- ment styles are inclined'tp ;variety t re of the luxurious type—and 1 uri•us t e=and there are times 'when • e er ..the choice of shoe will,,do.nuch to stabilize theCosa tuine. There is something ,trine about this shoe type, for it pos- Ito value through its absehee, ' It Ostia' Trimming Tr,atiiients Aroq so iewhat:, emetterand More Of The Now Ueda evautule ,ul pears sesses the tailored feeling. Next to the Oxford the opera pump pump posse,ses this quality. It is most adaptable, and fits into many types of formal, and informal oe-. shoewardrobe s. Hardly i ii ass on Y a that does not contain at least, one pair—and when there is only one it is usually of patent leather— and usually' there are more. Just now the opera, of satin is the ap- proved shoe for evening wear, and crepede, chine and brocade are used for sone of the evening pumps. While it is true, in many cases, that ;with every . costume there is a 'separate pair of shoes, it is the fashion of the opera pump 'that proves.the notable eecept-ton. The strapped slipper is a com- fortable piece of footevear, if the Straps are 111 the .right place. But it is not • their utility that makes them desirable, for they are, fre- quently, becoming, and, of late, they are different. 'lou will find that adjusting the straps of, a fay-, orite pair , of shoes will take up the looseness that may result from wear, indeed, straps are an aid to the business ` of well -fitting foot wear, Single straps and the front - strap triodel are in the foreground,' tlxis fall. , The trend Is away from the nar- row toe, There is an increasingly large nutnber of rounded' dies in the fall offerings, and In most cases they spell comfort, although. if a person wears a double or triple-A shoo the wider last 15 out of the question, One note of it - Weft seems to .bear repeating -- there 15 more than. a hint hof the re'tur'n of black suede to shoe faslllOte. It Is appearing as a tna- terial and in combination with other materials---petint leather nsualiy. Title is welcome newel, for suede is a naatei'ial of comfort as well as beauty, skirts in abundance, so that this portion of the silhouette is varied. Summer brought ua' the bloused back, and advance fall showings give us a bloused waist above a waistline that is emphasized by a wide gypsy girdle, or a wide flat belt of fabric or leather.. There are many very interesting tunic and bolero treatments, and there are many capes, the robe de style is again in the evening mode with clever adaptations of. it as a part of the. afternoon mode, and the two-piece dress has lost none of its ,popularity. Asis usual when one rule ob- tains, the long skirt is, prophesied. But so far its existence is wholly prophetic, and the newest models have skirts that are no nearer the ground. • 'If there is anything_ that suggests change it is the uneven hemline which is very generally• featured in. many of the smartest collections. "Mention should be made of one novelty—an overskirt longer than a peplum and shorter than a tunic, presenting, a bouffant effect at the sides—which may, at- tract brief attention. , Learning, From Pictured Pfodels Just what the sleeves, the waist- line and the neckline of dresses •may do is best shown in up-to-date models. And these latter should be taken from a•roc that, has g p been 'planned for immediate 'wear, during the time when we are re- gretting the summer things we en- joyed, yet are a bit skeptical' of this newest mode, just malting its definite appearance. .A group has been selected for just this purpose —a cloth dress ien afternoon frock, 0 a tailored suit.and a street costume of novelty wool, The: cloth dress proves conclu- sively' that the mode has ever in- tention of retaining its femininity —it,even,assunies a certain appro- priateness for informal afternoon occasions. The fabric is finely woven, supple enough to, take fine pleating, yet heavy enough to fashion .a panel. Crepe de chine, in pleats that metch:those on skirt and'tvaist, forms undersleeves, and rich embroideries trim the panel, the oversleeve and the collar—the' Matter convertibles as so many of the new collars are. And fur adds further elegance to the model. The model developed in moire shows the trend toward' fancy sleeves, 'high collars• and the wide belt dr girdle. It is carried out in what more can the traveler ask? black and white, the dress itself opening over a white ainderdress that is trimnied,wita loops and but- tons from neck to h.em. The wide belt results in a more tailbred a - ,pearance than the draped girdle, and there is more than, a tendency to tailored effects, even when the. resulting model is distinctly fem- inine. The use, of white on . the collar and sleeves is original •and smartly effective. A rather unusual suit—of the tailored variety—is pictured. It is made of a very supple broadcloth, and seems to combine some .few details of both •the sports and the dress mode in its tailored: whole. A straight skirt, given width by, pleats in front; a. coat that is somewhat looser than the usual tailored affair, and sleeves that wrinkle smartly are the first fea- tures noted. Then there are the patch pockets, the scarf -tie collar; and the stitched edge that provides an unusual finish. Yes, it is dif- ferent! For A Smart Street Costume Nothing contributes more of smartness to any mode—dress, suit or coat—than the cape. It possesses a swagger . charm that no other single detail, of dress approxi- mates, and in this pictured model it• lives up to its reputation, The streetdress may cloth be worn without the cape, which is detach- able, and when the cape is not worn, the buttons form a trimming that is .ori inal-a yoke is sug- gested, u -gested, and the drop shoulder is emphasized. A strictly tailored affair; this costume, and one that would meet many needs. d It too its as thoughwould be it oul a season of surplice treatments, and they, of course, emphasize the V-neck, which remainsg ood. There will be a deal of handwork —tuclting,, hemstitching, fagotting, pleating -on frocks for afternoon wear, wvliich will be made of the various crepe§, satin, moire and the supple chiffon velvets. Coat dresses, bbieres, yokes, plastrons and .pockets appear on wool. dresses, which 'make much of the reps, broadcloth, novelty English wools and kasha, - So, at least, tirere . are paths, enough diverging from the cross- roads, and it pleasant journey ten. be forecast. 'When there, is, a wide choice in fabrics, colors, silhouettes„ trimmings, and .trimming details T.--I.E FUR ;LINED COAT IT may havebeen the; Continental share .honors with the patterned vogue for 'the reversible coat that started the fashion, but it really doesn't matter, for we aro concerned, with the fashions itself. and its adaptability to our own purposes. During the August sales o£ furs there were many models of this newest coat on display, anl. their beauty, as Well as their prac- ticality, made manyfriends for them. It you etre imagining them the heavy, bulky affairs that the fur -lured coats of other years have been, then you are dun for a pleas ant surprise, /There is a wide choice of cloths, colors acid Color combinations in the displays, eche tweeds---ilxeiln- Ing to 'brown or gray in their miit� three, •' the fleece tweeds, with •the same doter t'endenefed, iniporte'd kas'hntir and wool Jacquard 'are. the ,fa;' ogite; i and . Diehl` polars goat* materials. Forordinary usage the more inexpensive furs aro in dem 'nand, since the finished coat Is not generally ranked anexpensive gar- ment, and no small measure of its cost is duo to the fine workman- ship. The tweeds asicl fleece -tweeds use ground squirrel or rabbit fur --the daces of these coats are, practically without exception, sills:. lined ---for a lining, bat snake use of kit fox, nutria or oposstini for the Collars. Coats bf ltashtnir—black, beige, red or tatr---tire, lined with snewfiecked ground squirrel fur or stenciled ; ltid---called giraffe fur. The toiler is the 'sante as, the lin- frig, and occasionally cuffs and pocltets of the fur are tedded, Tlte. wool Jao cards are lined with », , q, '1 frtr. �hie'is really* sieil�,lcd f1tCl , w h , 1 'icy DID YOU IiNOW— HAT they're saying "You can go anywhereat in a muskrat m coat?” It's smart for wear either in or out-of-town, it is ap- propriate for the street or an in- formal afternoon, and it's the best wearing fur on, the market for the purposes described. THAT the leopard skin coat is very different from the leopard eat coat, and both differ from the coat of panther cat? The first wears its spots in ringed rosettes, the second contents itself with small black spots, and the third is known. by its biege-gray tones. THAT the best wearing furs are leopard, mink, Muskrat, raccoon, zibetha (belongs to India, really civet) Australian opossum, Ameri- can opossum and beaver? ermine, caracul; broadtail, Mole, chinchilla, burunduchy, and gazelle do not wear well. TWO FALL COLORS a ns' arePeat ur- rE fashion sto g two delightful colors for arly fall wear, intending them as a preface to the • well -covered. color -card for winter. The one is a vogue that came' in with the late summer, the other carries more than a hint of the cool weather to come. Bose beige is the former, wine red the latter, and both, it would seem, already have a notable following, for they are seen in in- creasingly large numbers on the street and in the smart places fre- quented by smart folk! Rose beige is a shade that is rather more generally becoming than the usual new color, So it has appeared in frecks, coats and hats and—for sports — the popular knitted" sweater costumes. Sheer crepes and 'silk crepes take the tone delightfully, and it Is possible to match dress or coat with a hat of felt or velours—or all three maY match. 'And fashion accessories in this calor include handbags is moire or pleated silk crepe, shed stockings, gloves in the slip -or style, of suede, even Oxfords and slippers in kid, skin and fiber net. Paris was the first to sponse; wine red as a, fail color. It is ,a dark, rich, rather subdued tone. of red—likened to the dregs of old French wine casks—and it is, ap- proved as a smart town color for early Rall. There are some beaut.i- fuI frocks in this new tone—o satin, crepe silk, moire—even lace, and they typify the really authentic notes of the season's fashions. And the millinery shops are showing felt hats in this color—an agree- able note in a somber costume and these hats are the utmost in charm and smartness. NE . adjective specially ap- plicable ,¢ to, the general mode, 'decorative." ve e tl present,i d cora s at It applies to the garments that are fundamentals of the cos- tume, and it most certainly applies to accessories, and therein lies the one snare ,for ,the unwary that :will prove her undoing. For a balance must be struck or the business of ornamentation is overdone, and the ensemble is a failure, We are using "ensemble" these days very freely, but in a general way, to denote the whole make-up of the finished costume. 'Whichever accessory one is con- sidering -hat, shoes, handbag or handwear—it seems the most im- portant of them all. It would be difficult, indeed, to name then in the order of their relative im- portance, for a mistake in choosing either one would have the same result -the carefully -thought out costume would be a failure. So it. Is best to give all one's attention to the one thing under considera- tion, finishing the choice of it be- fore transferring that attention to the next thing', Gloves incline toward the orna- mental, but there is contrast to be had, for : the extremely graceful and nonchalp,nt.slip-on remains a favorite, There • are many well- dressed women who believe that the value of decoration is increased if accessories are plain, and there is something in this, But one's glove choice should be in the spirit` of the costume ,it complements. It is the smart, somewhat decorative, yet strictly tailored touch that very frequently lifts the severely plain to a higher level, maltijig it a dress Passibility, - iThe getintlettype of slip -oh May be smartened by a decorative metal buckle where the "strap fastens -- that buckle may even take the terns of e monogram. Color effects, carried out in tailored fabric trtns- minge. may achieve the same end, but ,.the colors themselves should Uta watched, lest they prove to be inharmonious or toe abrupt a con- trast, Contrasting leathers are Art - liked, and thereis decorative value In the reptilian leathers that have been growing steadily more pop- ular, po -ular, You may choose between the wrist with the tight cuff and the one that has a turn -back cuff, or you may choose the loose slip-on that is, preferably, a size or two larger than normal that it maY wear an air of carelessness, o you n r inay prefer—for your tailored out- flt—the heavy leather glove with hand -sewn n are .The a . seamsnovel- ties—among a ties—among then what is kno as the "bracelet" et" cuff formed b in a narrow band of contrast fabric stitched on. The past few seasons have see extremes, so far as handbags ar concerned, for they have range all the way from the small bag t the large, eonnmodous type tha may have been convenient, but w certainly not particularly smart t The new bags are a compromise and retain elements of usefulnes the while they are an extreme', decorative note n the costume l e i one cannot keep away from th word decorative. The envelope seems to hav proven its right to favoritism, an appears at alI hours of the day evening not excepted. There is wide array of leather bags, ar leather trims leather efi:ectirel Pipings and appliques are favori ways of using a contrasting colo woven inserts trim some of th tailored envelopes. and a Cleve idea is seen in an envelope of on shade of gray with a pocket 1 another shade, the latter fermin a vanity case. Variety is introduced into th situation by varied shapings o these envelopes. Corners are cu to give a different shape, some ar wider at the bottom than at th top, some are long and . narrow. others not so long, but reetangule —shape has much to do with th fashion of the handbag, Ono see a very great many bags of pie! leather with appliques or inorusta tions of the reptilian leather metal kid, or leathers of it dlifei tilt grain from the bag itself. Then there are bags that sirnu late the zipper roll, that Is,sit c1 a wonderful bit of traveling' it gage. And there ai'e bags'of silk - especially the much -liked moire and oecasinnaliy a tapestry baa Evening sees envelope bags 0 metal kid, and sothetimes they a1 Top or Wear'Witli The Tailored embroidered, and there are pew Costtlzne, The Bendbag Of purses of, silk brocade or velve Loather, With Color Contrast, The jeweled mesh bag has made 11 i Bietti G1nves r. ?f ,o a r n e and for formal s!f e ( nl Are TWO app a c c t liitntsWTle Must J4ett noon and evening w0a1a-there Tailored Ltd Drees Xectlet the beautiful French "bead bagat,