The Seaforth News, 1949-12-29, Page 7a'960 - JANUARY
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19550 JULY _. 1960.
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E-� oar We Salt* Geese
In The Canadian Arctic
1 havea ,uaiphtforward travel
story to tell you; the story of an
expedition which three of us made
during the summer to the north of
Canada. A good many people go
into the Canadian Arctic every sum-
mer, and, indeed, there are a good
many, too, whose business keeps
them there all the year round, and,
perhaps, for many years, Some of
that north country is quite easy to
get to in these days of flying, but
some is still rather inaccessible, The
Perry River, where we went, is one
of these inaccessible places, al-
though it is not particularly far
north—only about seventy-five miles
north of the Arctic Circle, said Peter
Scott, well known naturalist and art-
ist, in a recent BBC broadcast,
We went there by 'plane—mostly
uneventfully—but we had one rather
unpleasant stretch, flying down a
gorge with low, dark clouds down
to the tops of the cliffs on both
aides, so that we seemed to be flying
in a tunnel, and in the middle of it
we ran into a thick snow storm.
But, anyway-, eventually ' we got
through to the Perry River, and
landed on the snow-covered tundra
about fourteen miles inland from the
Arctic "Ocean.
':'dud where,' you may well ask,
'is the Perry River?' The quick
answer to that is 'about the middle
of the north coast of Canada, a little•
nearer to Hudson's Bay than to the
delta of the Mackenzie River.'
\\'leu all our equipment had been
unpacked, our pilot and his com-
panion climbed back into the 'plane
and took off again. We watched the
'plane until it was a speck in the
sky. It was our last link with the
outside world. For the next two
months we would be living here
*lobe.
11 is hard to describe the feeling
—the excitement, the anticipation,
the slight anxieties as to what was
in store—illness, accident, a miscal-
culation iu our supplies. Alt the
hazards — and there are a good
many, I suppose -=-of our expedition
passed through out minds as the
hum of the 'plane's engines faded
into the extraordinary silence of the
tmnd re,
'l'hetundra can be very silent, but
it is not often, because almost al-
ways there is a wind blowing. But
011 this day it was still, and from
afar, from the river, we suddenly
heard the cry of wild geese.
I t was an important moaiient for
us, because we had conte there es-
pecially to find these geese — the
lovely, miniature Snow Geese, called
Ross's Geese—white birds with
black tips to their wings, and a
rather soft, muted call. We saw four
of them flying up the river, which
was still at that time mostly frozen
with only a trickle of water running
down on top of the ice. But it was
tremendously reciting to see them.
e made our ramp on a ridge in
the lee of a hill, .it was quite a low
hill. only about 100 feet above the
surrounding plain. But the snow !tad
blows away -frmm the ridge, and so
we pitched our tents on grey gravel,.
and secured the guy ropes with
loose boulders. That camp was our
Headquarters from then -that was
June 6—for the next two months.
Now 1 wan[ to tell you how we
ep;nt those two-in011ths—what we
w ere there for. Our first and main
object was to study the birds, and
particularly Ross's Geese, because,
as far as anyone knows, this is the
only part of the world where the
Ross's Geese breed, and no sefentist
had eler leen there before.
Viewing the Country from Different
Aspects
Two at its were printarity ornitho-
logists, but the third member of the
party, was a research engineer who
also knew a gond deal about geo-
logy and surveying. So he was look-
ing at the country with rather a
different eye, and ntaking rnaps of
it, and so On.
For the first weeks, the spring
did not seem to advance at all. Is
was windy and cold and raw in the
daytime, with frequent snowstorms,
and at night we sometimes had
about fifteen degrees -of frost. That
was ha June, and we began to think
that the break-up would never conte.
It was daylight all the time, but
we kept a routine all the sasge, and
went to bed soon after midnight.
That was because we were keeping
x meteorological record, and we had
to read the instruments at n0oat and
at midnight.
Our camp was quite comfortable,
really. We had three tents, and
made up a fourth one out of packing
eases covered with ground streets,
which we used as a sort of labora-
tory for our scientific work. One
tent was a fairly big bell tent, and
we used that by -day and ate in it,
We had taken most of our food
with us, and we had three little
cooking stoves which kept the day
tent fairly warm and dried out our
wet clothes.
I would like to describe the ex-
troardinary snugness and comfort
of my sleeping bag. 11 was a bag
inside a bag, all made of quilted
eiderdown. And after a long day,
there was no better imaginable lux-
ury than to climb into this bag and
pull up the zipper. One felt that it
was a sort of haven, a home in a
cheerless world, and if the wind
blew forty miles an hour—and it did
more than once, and if the tent
collapsed about one's ears, which
several times it threatened to do, one
felt that 011 harem could possibly
befall one in the cosy inner fastness
of the sleeping bag.
On the other hand, of course, it
made it correspondingly snore diffi-
cult to start the day. If one awoke
to a rattling of canvas, and .peered
Out through the fly to see swirling
snow or fog, or both, and with visi-
bility no more than 100 yards, there
was not much incentive to turn out.
We, were just considering .this
problem one morning when we
heard footsteps, on the gravel out-
side. \1'e called to each other from
tent to tent to snake sure that we
were all still in bed. And then we
realised that we had visitors. These
were tlue first of the ICognruit tribe
of Eskimos to come and call on us.
We took 0o than into our day tent
and brewed tea for them, because
Eskimos are great tea drinker's.
Overcoming the Language
Difficulty
There were two of 'their!, a luau
and a boy—l-launga and Kaota.
They could talk no word of English
and we, at that time, of course, could
talk practically no Eskimo. But with
signs and with drawings we man-
aged.
11 was still snowing hard an hour
later when they set off over the
hill on their way back to their camp.
And we did not see any more of
these Koginuit Eskimos for about
ten days. And then, when the river
had begun to thaw out and the level
of it had gone up about fifteen feat,
with great lumps of are. aix feet
thlek, floating down • t, another
party of .Eskimos sin. their camp
about a mile away from ours.
Fiesta Queen — Pert Colleen
Delaney, above, was "Senorita
of the Fiesta" at the Orange
Bowl festival.
The two families, each living in a
white, canvas tent, became our great
friends and loyal helpers. The most
intelligent of them was a little man
called Topelakon. Besides their Es-
kimo names, most of these natives
had English names as well—they
had been baptised down at the trad-
ing post at the mouth of the river by
a passing missionary many years be-
fore. Topelakon's English name was
Patsy, and we found that they liked
US to use their white -man naris.
Kabloona is their word for white
man, and what was the good of hav-
ing a Kabloona name if the Rab-
loona did. not use it?
For the next five weeks we took
Patsy and his sixteen -year-old son,
Taanoo, with us on our various ex-
plorations. 1 wonder If I can de-
scribe that lad to you. He was a
typical young Eskimo, fairly short
and thick -set, with straight, black
hair cut in a fringe, and a brown
face flushed with rosy cheeks, which
gives all young Eskimos a most
wonderful, rich colouring. He wore
a parka, which is a sort of tonic
wills a hood trimmed with brown
and yellow wolverine fur.
The caribou is the most important
animal to these particular Eskimos:
It is rather like a reindeer, and they
hunt it for its flesh and for its hide
and they use the bones and the !torn
for all kinds of household utensils,
and tete sinews for sewing, and so
on, which means that very little of
the caribou is wasted.
It was Topelakon and his collea-
gue, Taipei', who led us to the big
breeding colony of Ross's Geese, or
han owau, as the Eskimos call
g os
them. It was the only. colony we
found where the birds were breeding
this summer. It was a two day's
journey inland, up out of the alluvial
valley of the Perry, among small,
rocky hills with innumerable lanes.
At last, in pouring rain, we cause to
Lake "Arloue--a little larger than its
immediate neighbours and with five
islands on it, each of the islands
dotted, alinost covered, with the
white birds sitting on their nests.
I wonder if you can imagine the
thrill when we first saw these is-
lands, and found the birds we had
come all this way to look for. There
were 260 nests, and we were the first,
White people ever to see this partic-
ular colony, or indeed this lake, \Ve
called it Lake Arlone after toy roup
panion's wife.
Of course, we had to make our
own names for any geographical
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ea 1111ra whit' H named to refer
to, becatt1e the map of that part o£
the world was eery like the Bell -
man's chart in The Hunting of this
Snack. Do yon remember '—'a per-
fect and absolute blank, It aas just
plain whits except for a dotted line
representing what was thought to
be tate course of the Perry River
itself—acid tee forted that e: ,'u that
was wrong.
We went to Lal,e Arlene a sec-
ond time, just after the Ross's'
Geese had hatched their goslings—
exquisite little halls of silvery -yet -
low down. And we found a strange
variation in the colour of this down..
Some goslings were almost canary
yellow, and others were platiuumt
blonde, and, since this was unknown
to science, we were rather pleased
with the discovery.
About the middle of July a fourth
man joined out. party. He was the
pilot of a float -plane, and he flew
in just as soon as the lakes were
open enough for him to land. So fur
the last two weeks of our expedi-
tion we could explore by 'plane, and
we covered an area about the siva
of Wales fairly thoroughly. We
found some new lakes which were
quite big, and a new river, more them
fifty miles long, and a hili which
dominated the landscape although,
actually, it was only about 800 feet
high.
And then came the sad day wheta
we had to leave. We had grown
tretnendously found of our patch of
tuudra—the patch of boggy moor
and stony ridges—which, by this
time of the year, was quite clear of
snow and richly covered with flow-
ers—heathers and heaths, saxifrages,
and dwarf rhododendrons, and the
beautiful stars of Dryas, which is,
perhaps, the commonest, and cer-
tainly, I think, one of the most
cheerful of the Arctic flowers. We
had grown fond of it in the warm,
early days of August, when we had
even though about bathing in that
lake below our camp, But above all,
we had grown fond of our g1sett
friends the Eskimos.
1 shall never forget my last night,
coming down the Perry river by
canoe in the midnight dusk, We had
been catching some Ross's Geese
to bring back alive, and the whole
operation had been rather success-
ful. The sky was clear, and the
night was very atilt and beautiful—
the whole scene was black and
orange, 1 remember I took the
canoe down over the rapids, whick
was exhilarating and, for a moment,
o her breath -taking, and perhaps a
little foolhardy.
Next day, with a fairly full load
in the 'place, including a dozen live
geese, we took off from the mouth
of our river. The pack -ice had drift-
ed into the bay, but we found 8141
opening which was just long
enough, and we got safely off. And
ea.-cept for getting very slightly lost
on the first, unmapped stretch of
our • hotnew
at do •s
cute ware returned
nod
by way of Hudson's Bay without
mishap. So our adventure was end-
ed,
None ()tit very firalnatit. eon clay
say, Well, no; but for us it was
quite an adventure, all the same. We
]tad planned it carefully, and, on
top of that, we were very lucky that
nothing went seriously wrong. You
see, the Arctic is quite friendly until
things go wrong, sad then it sud-
denly tarns fierce and dangerous.
And so you have to watch it.
-They tell aleshe-makes people
happy wherever she goes."
"1ou creak 'isbeliever'!" .
Front the. .lass-ro„at; "1,. the
world round of flat'” "Neither. Dad
says its ,rooked,"
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