The Brussels Post, 1889-6-21, Page 6esseeeseenweeesteaeleatetweanaWarnenen
THE BRUSSELS POST,
JUts
i t*
YOUNG FOLKS. ABYBBINIA. LAID WASTE.
WINNOGBNE.
Mr, Todd in Manitoba bas been telling
I<o dera of "Morning Rays" about the R:d
in liana of the North• W est ; about the poor,
duskyakinned, duekyeoaled peptone who
know nothing of that gospel of love, in
whose aunehine the white children of our
zone aro teetered. Nt w, I should like to tell
you about a little white ohbld who dwells in
the IB,:d•man'e land, and who bas for ane of
her names the pretty ward which howls thio
merrativo.
"innogene f' to not that a pretty name
for girl ? and I think Its meaning.is even
more pretty than its sound. " A bright ray
of light,"—that is the literal meaning of the
Indian word ; and the girl who is so named
le a ray of brightest ennrhine in a lonely
prairie -home, She ie a young child, and
very sweet one ; but aha has imbibed the
settlers' prejudice against the "Niohies" (a
contemptuous term applied to Indians), and
does not wiah to be called by a Nichie's
name. I am sure when she is older and
understands things that are dark to he ab
present, she will like that she wail named
Winnogene. Her parenta wore among the
$rat settlers who fixed their habitation in
that far away locality. They wandered and
wandered west for hundreds of miles with a
waggon and small store of household gear.
Winnogene'a mother wee the only woman of
the party. What a brave woman she was
T have heard from some who were with her
of her energy and courage. She never mar•
murtd, was always cheerful and ready to
help. Then, later, when her husband bad
decided upon where he would loos to himself,
how nobly she bore all the privation and
#:t'lala of the rougb prairielife 1 At that
--time the whole country round there was in
an unsettled state. Indians and half.breeds
were roaming the land athirst for revenge
en the conquering race, eager for plunder,
ignorant, debased ; all the woreb passions of
then. savage nature roused by injustice and
harsh treatment. Alan 1 when we do not
practice Christianity in our dealings with
taverns, how can we expecb them to meet
us with any spirit more tolerant than their
own heathen creed of " an eye for an eye"?
The martyrdom of missionaries, the patient
self sacridoe of good men through long years,
scarcely 'office to blob from a Red -man's
mind the belief that the " Paleface " is hie
mortal foe; and we have no business to
wonder that it is so ; for in the past our
western pioneers neither gave nor took
✓'quarter."
It will be for the children growing np in
the Icdian'a land to teach the poor conquer.
ed "Nichiee" a more Ohrietlike creed than
that which was practiced by their covquet•
can.
Now you will see some of the reasons why
Winnogene dislikes a Nichie's name, and
why I called Winnogene'a mother a brave
-woman. One night she was roused by a
terrible noble outside, which for some min.
ntee she never doubted wag oaosed by Indiana
come to murder them. The noise was cans
ed by wolves—not less terrible than Red-
skins when met out of doors ; but fortunate•
ly for the defenceless household, not ahle,
like the Indians, to plan an attack upon
unarmed men within a dwelling. The
wolves, like the Indians, bave now become
Sew and afraid to tate the intrepid setslers,
ao that women and children can sleep with.
not dread in those lonely prairie -homes.
Although thie lady, of whom I speak,
never lost courage, yet the strain upon her
nerves must have been very hurtful. She
loab her babies one after another, end was
more than once nigh unto death herself. At
last it happened that one dear little one
lived, and in exceeding thankfulness for
such a precious ray of heaven's own light
and life, the mother added "Winnogene" to
the other names bestowed upon the child.
Children—Yon are all more or leas ac.
cnetomed to the companionship of small
people like yonreelves, You have child.
friands who play with you and are in class
with you. You meet children at church, in
the street, by the eeaehore. You compete
with others of your age at games and in
e choal. Yon ohat together over your lessons
sad toys ; and yon bave huge enjoyment in
t he exchange of confidences and sweeties
with some little body who is your special
ehnm. Can you imagine how you should
feel if you were like Winnogene—almost the
'sly child within a circle of many miles,
add= seeing another child, and never en.
joying the daily companionship of children?
1 really cannot describe what a queer sense.
Bon . it gave me to see that bright little
Morning Ray—Winnogene—shedding its
light and beauty upon the lives of the grave
grown-np folks in her home. She waa
dreamed as any girl in Sootland might be—
in a white frook and pretty sash. She look
ed like any Scottish lank might—rosy•
nhoeked, glad•eyed, ohild-like, and happy ;
yet I felt how much more Winnogene was
than any girl at home. Here we have more
little girls than we often know wbab to do
with; there one little girl is a pearl of ex
oaeding price, a token of love, a centre of
attraction, a something to evoke tenderness,
toeuggeet purity, to soften stern men doing
stern work.
When this Magazine waa being gent forth
to you, I remember hearing its title anxiono•
ly diecuseed. The good men and women
who wished to put a pleating "monthly" in
your hands ware very earnest in bestowing
upon it au appropriate name. Its fitneaa
Iwo never been brought so vividly before me
as it was when I held the hand and looked
upon the sunny up•raioed face of little Win.
nogene, and heard her mother toil the mean-
in;r of the word, Morning Rays 1 Children,
you are all "Winnogenee" in a pertain nano.
Are you trying to live up to each a beautiful
name, trying to shed gladness, purity,
warmth around you? Are you trying to
come and go like the sunbeams, lighting up
the dark places of the earth, rejoicing sad
livea around you, kindling new life in dead-
ened souls, being in your spheres what
'G1 innogene is in her prairie -home, a bright
ray of light? Every beam of light which
comes to our earth is a golden arrow sent
from the soul of the sun. Every little child
is a ray of divine life sent from the heart of
kind.
Oh, if every ohild were to perform,ite
earthly mission aa faithfully a0 the sunbeams
perform theirs, what a bright and happy
world tbia would be I
JESSIE M. E, SAXP,y.
Too Sweet,
Waggo—"I wiah you wouldn'b make snob
Affectionate pies, Mre. Skimplee."
Landlady—"Affectionate pied 1 Pray
–hat kind's that f"
"Why, thio berry pleas ao thin that the
crusta are actually duck en oaoh other."
Ab High Ridge, near Stamford, Cann.,
there 10 a wife who is the mother of fourteen
children, all living, and none of them twine.
All bub two live at home, and these two,
oath/ling the eoarlot fever, Went home to be
nursed, They gave it to the other deem,
and the whole fourteen were Wok at once,
and Mediate had to be mixed- in pitchers
and bread pane.
The Success or Ilan Olobdl dgain'1 t0liig
John.
The only warfare in whish the Mabdiete
have rcoently been euoceeaful is that against
King John of Abyaainia. There ie no doubt
of the death of King John and she defeat
with great elaugbter of his forces. The in.
aulttng letter to Queen Victoria that Rha.
life Ahdullah recently sent to Cairo waft ac-
companied by Foote of his viotory over the
Abyseiniane, including the very letter the
Queen had sent to Ring Jahn over a year
ago. The news now comes that the
Mandlste have turned western Abyaainia
into a desert, have killed tbouoande of the
people, and dragged other thoueande into
captivity. Anarchy has aooeeeded euoh
government as King John gave his people
and the prostrate country is at the mercy of
the invaders.
The region that has been laid waste le the
moat charming part of Abyssinia, for in the
gradual descent from the lofty table lands to
the warm low valleys leading toward Khar•
tonm and Nubia tke flora boatmen more
LUXURIANT AND BEAUTIFUL,
On the route to Khartoum is Galabat, lam.
ous se the great slave market of the eastern
Sondaneee,intheirolaveeatohiegexpeditions
against the hated Christiane of the highlands,
bring their trains of beautiful Abyssinian
girls and sell them to dealers, who make a
bnaineeo of supplying the berme of Kiser.
toum, Kassala, and Meooa. Only two or
tbree travellere have been able to describe
the busy and piteous areotaole in the slave
booths of Galabat, which is all the more in.
tweeting and deplorable because the victims
are girls, torn from their moontaine to live
like caged birds behind the lattices of
harems from the Nile to Mecca. They are
se highly prized by the lards of the bertha
se the famous beauties of Circaesia, Dr,
Jnnker, in the book of travels he is now
publishing, tells of the baanty of many of
these maidens and adorns his volume with
well -executed engravings of some of them.
Even while the Soudan was under Egyp•
tian control, bhe harem trrffioat Galabat
thrived, and we on easily imagine that aince
this
LAST DISASTROUS WAR
the town has been in the heyday of its pros•
perity. Mr. De Corson, who visited Galabat
some years ego, said that the merchants eat
smoking beside the booths that concealed
their 'levee from the public view. When
cnstomera appeared a piece of cotton was
thrown over the head of each girl, which
concealed her featnre3 until it was her turn
to be inepeoted. "Many of these young
girls, " he wrote, "are very beautiful. Their
color ie often not darker than thab of a
Spanish gypsy, their Netnews are ,mall and
delicate, their [forms proportioned like a
ereek etatne, and their eyes large and Inst.
roue." A few years ago one of these fair
priaonere in Jeddah threw hereelf from a
window to the pavement below, preferring
death to captivity. No doubt when they
gaze from their prisons
UPON THE MOT SANDS
of Arabia the thought of their own green
mountains only aggravates their unhappy
lot.
The highlanders of Abyssinia are a brave
and intelligent people, and it is to be hoped
thah they will not long be the helpleao
viobima of anarchy ab home and of the piti-
less followers of Islam, wile surround their
mountains. A far worse fate might be.
fall them than to become the aubjeots of
Ring Menelok, the powerful ruler of Shoe,
who claims to have succeeded Ring John,
though that ruler diopoeed of hie throne
by will 00 one of his relations. The news
is highly significant that the Italians have
advanced from Maaaowah and seized Karen,
on the lovely plateau of northern Abye-
aania, King John's belief ibat they meant
to raise their flog over this district led
him to make war upon the Italian forces.
If the cable report is tree. they have ire,
proved the opportunity afforded by Abys.
einfa's present weakness to acquire the fax
tile regio,, which alone can make Maseowah
worth possessing.
Infuence of a God Woman
And atill we respect and admire a gentle-
man, and we take off our hats and worship
a gentlewoman. Still we like to kiss the
hand of a poor and innocent girl and listen
to the low, soft voice and refined thoughts
of an educated and delicate woman. Isn't
the moonlight brighter, the night air purer,
the world better worth living in when we
leave the presence of a good woman than
when the swinging door of a saloon closes
behind us and a burst of fetid atmosphere
follows as into the street? No man ever
yet reformed unless under Boma such in
fluence, and I don't believe any man ever
felt snoh influence without a these of hie
own unworthineoe and a momentary reeoln-
tion ro out his low acgasintaooes and habits.
I am nob saying that he did it.
There's nothing eo weak in the world as
e, man's resolution to reform. But you can
alwayotell when a men has been spending
an evening with a charming, loaned wo-
man. You sometimes, you know, meet a
man coming down the street about 11 o'clock,
He is walking with a firm tread, bis head
np in the air. Ho may be humming some.
thing', he is proud of himoolf ; he has a
dignity about him that you can see in the
dark. He has been there and can't help
showing 11,
A Powerful Austrian Vessel.
In the Stabilimento Teonioo Triestine a
ram emitter la, being finished which will be
launched on the 18th of May. Ib i0 of ex-
traordinary offensive power, very fast,
strongly armed, and is especially well pro.
teoted below the water -line. 11 is expected
to be almost unsinkable. On the lower
deck the iron plates are fifty-seven milli-
metres think, It is oovored by a bell of
cellulose designed to protect the sides, when
injured by shot, against an influx of water.
It ie armed with two Kropp twenty.four
oentimetre gone, with a range of 101a milers,
sixteen Krupp guns of fifteen centimetres,
two Uohatius guns of haven centimetres, and
eleven quiets -firing gone. The &peed is
estimated at nineteen knots], and it ie to be
named Franz Josef 1.
Whom it Belonged to,
Ile : "Oh I what a charming plant,"
Elder Sister : "Yeo, it belongs to the Begonia
family." Small Sister : 'Ilio, it don't. It
belongs to the Brown family, wbo lent 11 to
nil tor thie evening."
The Proudest Moment of Rio Life.
Magistrate : "Wore yon ever arrested
before, Uncle Rastas f' Uncle Regius :
"Yes, eah, 1 war 'rested, but 1 war die,
aha god ; an' I tell yo', yo'r honah, dat I war
nebbah so proud in my life as when 1 walk-
ed down dat oonrt.room a free an' honorable
man," Magletrate ; "Then you were not
proven guilty, Uncle laetu' ?" Uncle
Radios t "NO, rah s dere waa a flaw in de
lndloteaeat, tali,"
HEALTH.
!'reposing For Old Age.
The life of a man may be properly divided
into three Magee—the period of inoreoao, the
period of maturity, and the period of decay
or decline. In the ftret of theca the propose
of formation are more active than those o
destruction; In the second they are abou
equal ; in the third the processes of dee.
truotion are more active than those of for-
mation, It is Chia latter we have to °enabler
in this present paper,
The period of decline ie marked by se etrlk-
ing oharaotoristios as those which belong to
the period of increase, After the body has
renamed at nearly a fixed point of develop.
went for a few years, varying from Sve to
en, a diepoaitlon ie manifested towards do.
generation. Ths process of decay becomes
more powerful than that concerned in the
regeneration of Bunco, and in censequence
the body not only loses weight from tbo
atrophy of ice parts, but the functions
ARE LESS PERFECTLY RERFORMED. 1771
Thus, the action of the heart becomes weak.
er and lees frequent, the respiration slower,
the digestion weaker, the monolog thinner,
the skin sbrnoken, the joints stiff, the teeth
fall out, the hair becomes grey, the arteries
become ossified and the entire form loses
its elasticity and becomes lege erect than in
adult age. The whole tendency of the body
as to consolidation.
The organa of special aenee also beeomo
affected. She eye loses its brightness and
the eight grows dim and preabyopio; the
trete is lees acute and the sense of smell is
almost, if not altogether, loot at a compar-
atively early period.
With these changes the mind also partici
paten. The memory is the first faculty to
fail, and the others follow in rapid enoces-
edon.
If these alterations are gradual and mai.
form throughout the eyste m death from old
age is the result ; but i rarely happens that
derangement of mom,, one important function
does not prodn e this reanit before the
general breaking up of
TRE VITAL PRINCIPLE OCCURS.
Daring the first ten or nfteen years the de-
cay of the organism is so slowly effected that
very little Inconvenience results, and o0
oasionally we meet with individuals who ere
able to withstand the tendency to degenera-
tion to a very advanced period of existence ;
but it is, nevertheless, progreaaing, imper
ceptibly it may be, but sorely, to the axtino-
tion of that mysterious principle we oall life.
Such is the brief outline of some of the
oonditioos which attend the period of decline.
The diseases to which it is especially liable
are those which are related to the prinoipal
organs of life. Apoplexy, paralysis, organic
dilemma of the heart and lunge, of the large
veesele c f the liver and kidneys, are frequently
encountered.
I have alluded to the change that ensue
in the mind as a comicquence of advanced age,
but it le not to be auppoeed that there is a
failure of all the mental faculties. Indeed,
there is, dtuiog the first ten or fifteen years
of this period, ac increse° in the strength
and powers of endurance of the mind, and
quite often Baia process oontinueo for aeveral
additional years. The judgment, owing to
the experience which the individual has
obtained in the affairs of life, becomes riper
and more unerring; there is a greater power
of determining the value of facts and a lase
diepoaitlon to be governed by the emotions.
DOT AFTER A TIME.
the intellect becomes leve absorptive of per-
cepbione and levo oreative of ideas. The
power of mental concentration is markedly
diminished. The memory fails, especially
in regard to recent occurrences, The imagin.
ation Iona the vividness and extensive range
of yonth and maturity, and the judgment
becomes feeble and vaoilloting. The indivi•
dual begins to rely on others for advice an
to Me affairs, and little by little he parte
with his own will even in matters of the
smallest importance. The emotions no long•
er away the wbole being as they once
did, and some of them are utterly extin-
guished. Often, however, a maudlin or
fretful condition is developed, which ends
with its own expression of tears or sniffles,
never prompting to volitional impulses or
producing more than a momentary dlatarb
ante.
To all this, however, there are sometimes
Potable exceptions, but yet not enough to in
validate the law that the period in question
i0 one of decline in fact ea well as in name.
Undoubtedly much can be done by the ob.
servanoe of ordinary hygienic roles to retard
all these ohanges and to postpone the inevit-
able death, but it is none the less certain
that many poreona live to an advanced old
age and in the erjoymeut of a fair measure
of health who violate every sanitary law.
They take Iittle or no exercise, they
indulge themael>tes in all the pleasurea
of the table, they drink alcoholic Ib-
quors to exeese, they disregard the ob
ligatiots of chastity, and yet they do not
seen to suffer in health, mental or physical.
These, however, must be regarded as ex.
eepti0n0'to the general rule : moreover, ib is
quite probable that but for their improper
mode of living they would have been in still
better condition, and death would have been
atill further postponed.
DEARING 12/ MIND THE FACT
stated in the preceding remarks, Ib is appar.
ent that there is lees demand made upon the
organs of life in old ago than during Dither the
period of immerse or of maturity, and that
these organs are less capable of performing
their funotiono than in early, middle, or adult
life. It follows, therefore, that they mast
be leas severely taxed; the etomaoh, for in-
stance, should receive lees food, for ire
power of digestion ham diminished. Severn
physical exertion should be avoided, for the
muscles, especially the heart, has lost in
thee. The man, for instenoe, who oan at
30 run a hundred yards or more with thane-
ly any acceleration of his pulite or reapir-
atlon, would run the risk of balling dead
if he wore to attempt this feat at 70,
But nothing 10 so oonduoive for health in
old age and the cultivation of a genial frame
oflmind as not losing interest in the affairs of
Life. To grow old gracefully is of itself the
beat antidote to the inroads of time, The
mind ratline its hold upon matters which
have interested bb, and lone almost im
perceptibly the vigor natural to it. The
various ergone of the body feel tale influence
and continue to perform their various
fnnetiobs with a promptitude and efficiency
whioh would be impossible in one imbued
with melancholy or full of the consoiouenese
that fife has loot its oharme. It is folly
for elderly pongees to seclude themoelvea
from the world and to oeaso to mingle with
the young. Tho Juniata of homes for the
aged may sometimes bo long -Bred, bat their
existence 10 more that of the vegetable than
of the human being. Death, when it comes,
is toareely regretted,
roes LIFE r1AS LOOT ITS A TTRAOTIONS,
Fow proems comparatively knew how to
enter gently and graoefullyopen old age, A 1
a rule, elderly persons are querulous, exact
ing and extremely tolfieb, They aro litho
groom or, decidedly obhcxioue to those
with whom they come in contact and they
die nnregrettod except in so far as a decent
regard for the opinions of mankind require
that regrets should bo shown. Nevertheless
there ie not so much of this unpleasant old
age us there wee a century ago, or for even
a mush less time back. It ie difficult now
to tell an old man or an old woman by their
dress. The jauntiest oats, the most brill► -
ant neckwear, the latest Walden in gloves
aro now often Been on men who have passed
their threescore and ton. The most costly
jewels adorn the nooks end bands of women
who have long mince passed their primo,
Ml Chia is as It shonld be. The terrors of
old age disappear before those who faoe
thorn bravely,
WILLIAM A. $Aaroioetn.
In the Wrong Shop,
A oortain Irish Catholic clergyman, a
fine, tall, handeome•looking gentleman, tell/
the following really good story eoncorning
himself :—" When I first came to Scotland
I determined to maks all the bad Catholics
in my pariah good -living people, if possible,
and that not by argument or exhortation,
but chiefly by the liberal nee of the black
thorn. I soon became a terror to all evil-
doers that came under my jurisdiction.
Hearing one day that Biddy B—, whose
husband seemed never to be at home when I
called, was beginning to neglect herrellgioue
duties again, I made a visit to her house with
the intention of severely admonishing her.
There was no one in when I called but a
dour -looking workivg man taking supper,
'Are yon Biddy's husband ?' I inquired. He
simply answered' Yea I' and went on with
hie meal. ' Were you at masa on Sunday ?'
I asked. 'No,' he replied. 'And why weren't
you, you blackguard 1' said I, now getting
angry ab the fellow's coolness. But no answer
did I get, for he seemed too much interested
in hie meal to give me one. This thoroughly
roused me, and I fall to and gave him a most
mereileee drubbing. The poor fellow never
struck back, but made several frantic at-
tempts to get out of my grasp. At last he
succeeded and ran under the bed. I eeiz-d
hold of a large broom in the corner of the
room, and tried bard to poke him out again,
for I was thoroughly wild. In the midst
of the excitement, Biddy made her appear -
mice en the fi:ld, and, at once recognizing
me, she held up her hands in horror, and ex-
claimed—'Father, what's the meaning of
this?' 'The meanings' I said, getting wilder.
'The meaning, indeed ? Why, I am punish-
ing your hnaband for not turnieg out to
mass on Sunday, and if it were not that
you're a woman I'd think nothing of giving
yen the sam0.' 'Ooh, father, dear,' said
Biddy, in great diotrese of mind, 'aura the
poor fellow's not a Catholic at all, he's jaet
a docent Scotch Protestant." I have met
many Sootoh Protestants sine then" (con.
olndled the clergyman) "ler whom I have
had a very great liking and high esteem ;
but I'm bound to may, in jnotioe to myself,
that none have I ,vee encountered for whom
have had a profounder respect or greater
esteem than for that poor, patient, for-
bearing, magnanimous Scotch Christian."
An African Queen's Sad Tale.
Here 10 a glimpse at woman's lot in Africa
from a chapter in a recent book on South
Africa, which describes some of the customs
of the Sawzoe tribe ; "A beautiful young
wife of the king had in some innocent way
displeased him. The order wan given to
smell her out, and the witch doctors did
their horrible work. Execntionore were
told off, and they were sent out to the
young wife to tell her of her aentenoe. She
dreamed herself in her beat ornaments, and
determined to appear before the king to
say 'good -by.' She had been the ruler's
playmate and favorite sweetheart as a child,
and she ventured to send a message to him
asking permission to say 'good•by' to him.
The king refused the request, Calmly pre-
paring for death, the young woman disre-
garded the denial, and walked to where Hie
Majesty was sitting drinking champagne.
She said to him : `K.iog, I have come to say
"Good•by"; tell me why, you are killing
me.' The Ring vouchsafed no answer and
turned his faro away. The poor woman
proceeded to bid adieu to the other wives
and girls of the monaroh. They stood in a
row, and ail ohm walked down in front of
them she said ; I am the first, but there
will be more of you to come atter me.
Without another word the quietly followed
her executioners, They lad her about three
miles from the kraal, aoroea the Titian
river, and there hanged her on a low thorn
tree. The rein by whioh she was suspended
being too long, her feet nearly touched the
ground, and etrangnlation was completed
by beating the ruin with etioke, the person
of royalty being sacred to the common
touch,"
Delivering the Mail at Fayal.
The arrival of the mail throws Fayal into
a stats of excitement, Half the population
then comes to town, and a hot and steaming
crowd pirate itself into the one Poet OSiao
that the island possesses, As the Postmaster,
plainly conscious ot his importance on an
occasion which happens only once a fort-
night, advances with the letters to the little.
desk which separates the throng from the
dices the stranger is struck by the ridion-
loos disproportion between the size of the
crowd and thab of the psekab, a eirnem•
stance whiob is explained by the fact that
every woman expecting tidings from bus•
band or eon be"a000mpanied apparently by
the rest of the family. The jabber subsides
into a buzz of sulpreesed excitement as the
Postmaster adjusts his speotaolee with the
most exasperating oompoaure. He calla out
the name on the topmost letter ; a thrill
voice on the oonfises of the crowd intimates
its destination, when half a dozen hands are
stretched out to receive it and ib is passed
over the heads of the crowd to the fortunate
recipient. The buzz is renewed after each
announcement ; the Postmaster baa con-
stantly to repeat hie demand for silence, in
whittle he is of course joined by suoli of the
crowd as have not yet received a letter. As
the delivery proceeds the orowd gets nat-
urally noisier, and the Postmaster beoones
hob and angry with the exertion of statute
ing above the din, Although the number of
letters i/ small—Ohristmastide brings quite
as largo a pocket to many a country house
at home— the work of distribution ba long,
from the circumstance that each recipient
has on the average five or six names, which
Portuguese etiquette theme to demand than
be duly set forth on suoh a formai occasion
as the dfepatoh of a letter.
When Mr. Bancroft, the well-known
English comedian, wag celebrating his silver
wedding, he thought to pay nib wife a
pretty compliment by saying, "My dear,
you ought to have married a better man
than 1 am." To which Mrs. Banoroft re.
plied, "My dear, 1 did."
An old Indian squaw went into a dry -
goods atoro in Bangor, Me., the other day
and bought 00100 Areas patterns, together
with neediest,' thread and thimble. She
asked to bo allowed to go into a book room
to sew a little. About an hoar afterwardo
the owns Iron the room wearing a dress
made of the material oho had juror bought,
and went out of tee otoro evidently well
satisfied with her purohato.
ROME DRESSMAKING,
A contemporary in writing of home drown
reeking, whiob, by the way, wee fire
thought of by na as a moans of assisting
home sowers, says that paper patterns fail
to give any idea of how the pattern is to be
applied to the material. Evidently th
writer knows vary little of the " Domegtio '
paper patterua ; they have an ovary envoi.
apo containing a pattern, complete direction
In regard to applying the pattern to the
material, the witting and joining of oaoh
part,
A paper pattern cannot fit every figure a
though molded upon it, as they are drafted
so to obtain a good average figure ; but core
paratively few alterations will have to be
made if all our dlreotione are followed. Inole
wide seams aro left under the same and on
the ahouldera, where the chief refitting, o
rather adapting, is done.
If the figure is very full, the front edgee o
a barque should be rolled out to give th
necessary width over the boat and curve a
the waist line. Of course, a trimmed dram
skirt does not require even these Blight al
terations.
a oluoter of loupe and made where ib 8nlabee,
The full sleeves are fiddled with wrlat.
bete of the No, 12 ribbon. A white woolen
areas, India silk, or French ohallie could be
arraeged bu tela atylo at lase expense and
with exoellont effect. If wished, au Empire
each of surah could be substituted for the
ribbon bodice,
Figure No, 62 represents a jacket blouse
of plain and figured flannel for morning
wear. A olose.fitting lining ie worn beneath,
and the jacket has a half•Sbtbng bank, with
fronts having one darb in each,
The Bhirb eleevoo have deep naffs of
white 6 oonel matching the high and broad
rolling collar, with feather-ebibohed edges.
The plastron ie also of the white material,
and droops like a sailor blouse, the lower
edge being sewed to the edge of the lining.
A rib eon tied where the collar meets adds
to the jaunty appearance.
The bodies or blouse shown in Figure No,
63 is of blue surah, though cotton, silk, and
woolen materials are all made up In thie
useful form, Nearly all have a oleo lining
of eileoia, French <lambria, or tsetses, The
back ie laid in hand run or foather•sbibohed
tucks like the fronts, and the lower part is
worn outside of the skirt.
A belt of the geode is run through a pearl
buckle. The high roller is finished with a
row ot feather•etitohing, and the full drawee
have oath decorated to correspond.
The outside of the eleevee is tucked just
above the oleows, forming a puff above
and below,
FIG. 60.
Old•rose cashmere be illustrated in Figura
No. 60, though albatross, ohallie, India ailk,
etc., are all soibable for home costumes
fashioned after such an attractive model.
The fall skirt is five yards wide, and gather-
ed, except in front, where eight narrow kilt
pleats are laid toward the centre front. The
lining skirt is of the usual shape, and faced
for six inches on the eutaide with the drone
fabric.
The round waist hoe a plain back, fronts
ria. 61,
pleated on the ehmolder oceans, and shirred
ab the waist line over a surah plastron,
which is shirred ab the top and around the
collar. A large silk oord is run around the
edge of the waist, and ties in front. The
eleevee are gathered at the top and ahirred
in several rows at the white.
Figure No. 61 is a charming toilette for
garden -party, seaside, or drossy wear on
summer days. The lining skirt of satin
surah in finished with a tiny pleating of the
same, and hoe agathered skirt of lace slightly
draped in front, and held down near the
edge by a rosette of ribbon. Each aids is
then trimmed with three longthwiao bands
of ribbon, ending in aloop and one end near
the edge of the skirt.
Fra. 68.
Who round wafatis full on the ehouldore
in front and orosoed at the wand, while the
book is gathereo at the centre, top and
bottom. A bodice from the side aoamm ie
composed of rows of the ribbon fitted over
canvas, which le well boned, and curving to
the waist line in the aliapo represented, with
Fra. 64.
The blouses aro especially suited to alight
figures. Stout persona are wearing gingham
and other cotton waists made with darts and
forms, and a slight point, book and front,
with cuffs, collar, revere, and a slender V of
embroidery. The round full skirt usually
has a alightly draped front, and the sleeves
are full at the top only.
Figure No, 64 illnatratee a charmingly
simple gown of white albaeroee and
moire ribbon, which could be fol-
lowed for a young girl's greduat.
ing tlolette. The sheathe menIloned in
"White Dream.' are atoo suitable for tale
purpose, with ehoen and hosiery of white or
black. Gloves are of white Suede if any are
n orn, hetet several eohools gloves have been
voted down, and the ,overeat simplicity
followed.
Thin round waist is full on the shoulders,
front, and back, is again gathered at the
waist line in the back, and lapped in front,
leaving a V oovored with throe Vandyked
stripes of the ribbon. The full sleeves have
several rows of shirring at the top, and deep
naffs trimmed with ribbon to correspond with
the roller,
Fla. 66.
The bank and front of the skirt are ahirred
the top or a epee of five incluse deep,
and trimmed with three rows of ribbon,
while the sides aro likewise ahirred, but are
lei' untrimmed, A girdle of the material is
pointed, back acid front, and ties in long
leaps and ends on the right side. An
Ea pire sash of wide moire ribbon aonld be
wo• n ,if preferred to the girdle. Figure No.
66 llnatratee aatyle of skirt that will look
web l in sofb woolen or silk goods, The
lin! r f i shaped me conal, and covered with
the sateriol en the left aide. Tho back is
full ,a ad gathered in five rows half an inch
apo t with the right side and front draped
in r .ew pleats at the top, to give an easy,
graceful fullness.
On the left nide a full width ie gathered in
h bolt and slashed at the bottom in long,
narrow tongues, that are faded with orino-
lino, and braided or embroidered, according
to the matarial selected. Either a round
Empire waist, baeque, or blouse may be
worn with such a akirt.
In Figure No. 66 a neat design for a
stout figure is given that is suitable
for plain and striped or plaided cotton
or woolen materials, gingham being
ing represented. A thin lining of Fronoh
cambric is used in'ehe pointed barque, which
has sleeves full ab the top, a V, book and
front, and collar of the pleid out diagonally.
The barque fastens invisibly, and at the
edge laps over to the left, fastening with a
angle large button.
The left side of the skirt is of bho plebs
fabric and the fullback is fastened up over
the 1 a'que.pobnt. The 'quare apron 10
joined to the full back on the right aide,
drapes in a few upward pleats on that side,
and then falls abraight in lengthwise belt
pleats on the left. This style of apron re.
quires one width of 48dno11 geode, and two
of 27, being of the Grecian design now re-
vived.
The book beer advertio ingsigna are indica.
Uwe dint a mahntay got as full at ag0a1 on
the, beverage.
so
•.i