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OR, A MIDNIGHT CALI.;
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CHAPTER XVII•—(Continued.
"Ile might. On the other hand,
he might plead ignorance. It is pos-
sible for him to suggest that the
whole affair was merely a coinci-
dence, so far as he was concerned."
'Yes, but he would have to ex-
plain how he burgled your house,'
and what business he had to got
himself half murdered in your con-
servatory. Let us get out here and
walk the rest of the way to your
house. Our cabby knows quite
enough about us without having de-
finite views as to your address."
The cabman was dismissed with a
handsome doueeur and the twain
turned IT the front at the corner of
Eastern Terrace. Late as it was,
Were were a few people lounging un-
der the hospital wall, where there
was a suggestion of activity about
the building unusual at that time
of night. A rough -looking fellow,
who seemed to have followea Ball
and Steel from the front dropped in-
to a seat by the hospital gates and
laid his head back as if utterly worn
out. Just inside the gates a man
was smoking a cigarette,
"Halloo., Cross, David cried, "you
are out late to -night!"
"Heavy night," Cross responded,
sleepily, "with half a score of acci
dents to finish with. Some of Pal-
tner of Lingfield's private patients
thrown off a coach and brought here
in the ambulance. Unless I am
greatly' mistaken, that Is Hatherly
Bell with you."
"The same," Bell said, cheerfully.
"I recollect you in Edinburgh. So
some of Palmer's patients have come
to grief. Most of his special cases
used to pass through my hands."
"I've got one here to -night who re-
collects you perfectly well," said
Cross. "He's got a dislocated
shoulder, but otherwise he is doing
well, Got a mania that he's a doe -
tor who murdered a patient."
"'Electric light anything to clo with
the story?" Bell asked, eagerly.
"That's the man. Seems to have
a wonderfully brilliant intellect if
you can only keep him off that topic.
He spotted you in North Street yes-
terday, and seemed wonderfully dis-
appointed to end you had nothing
whatever to do with this institu-
tion."
"If he is not asleep," Dell suggest-
ed, "and you have no objection—"
Cross nodded and opened the gate.
Before passing inside Bell took the
rolled -up Rembrandt from his deep
breast -pocket and handed it to
David.
"Take care of this for me," he
whispered. "I'm going inside. I've
dropped upon an old case that inter-
ested me very much years ago, and
I'd like to see my patient again. See
you in the morning, 1 expect. Good-
night."
. David nodded in reply and went his
way. It was intensely quiet and
still now; the weary loafer at the
outside hospital seat had disappear-
ed. There was nobody to be seen
anywhere as David placed his key in
the latch and opened the door. In-
side the hall -light was burning, and
so was the shaded electric lamp in
the conservatory. The study deed-
ing to the conservatory was in dark-
ness.
arkness. The effect of the light behind
was artistic and pleasing.
It was with a sense of comfort and
relief that David fastened the door
behind him. Without putting up the
light in the study David laid the
(Rembrandt on his table, which wa
immediately, below the window in his
work -room. The night was hot; he
pushed the top sash down liberally.
"1 must get that transparency, re-
moved," he murmured, "and have
the window filled with stained glass.
The stuff is artistic, but it is so
frankly, what it assumes to be."
CHAPTER XVIII.
David idly mixed himself some
whisky and soda water in the dining -
room, where he finished his cigarette.
IIe was tired and ready for bed now,
SO tired that he could hardly find
energy enough to remove his boots
and get into the big carpet slippers
that were so old and worn. Ile put
down the dining -room lights and
strolled into the study. Just for a
moment be sat tbere contemplating
with pleased, tired eyes the wilder-
ness of bloom before him.
Then he fell into a reverie, as ho
frequently did. An idea for a fas-
cinating story crept unbidden into
his mind, He :gazed vaguely around
him. Some little noise outside at-
tracted his attention, the kind of
noise made by a sweep's brushes up
a chimney. David turned idly to-
wards the open window. The top
of It was but faintly illuminated by
the light of the conservatory gleam-
ing dully on the lransparency over
the glass. But David's eyes were
keen, and he could see distinctly a
man's thumb crooked downwards
over the frame of the sash. Some-
body had swarmed up the telephone
holdfasts and was getting in through
the window, Steel slipped well into
the shadow, but not before an idea
had come to him. Ho removed the
rolled -up Rembrandt from the table
and slipped it behind a row of books
in the book -case. Then he looked up
again at the crooked thumb,
He would recognise that thumb
again anywhere. It was flat like the
head of a snake, and the nail was no
larger than a pea—a thumb that had
evidently been cruelly smashed at
one time, The owner of the thumb
might have been a common burglar,
but in the light of recent events
David was not inclined to think so
At any rate he felt disposed to give
his theory every chance. 1t'e saw
a long, fustian-clacl arm follow the
scarred thumb, and a hand grope
all over the table.
"Curse mo," a foggy voice whisper-.
ed, hoarsely. "1t ain't here. And
the bloke told me—"
The voice said no more, for David
grabbed at the arm and caught the
wrist in a vice -like grip. Instantly
another arm shot over the window
and an ugly piece of iron piping was
swung perilously near Steel's head.
Unfortunately, he could see no face.
As be jumped back to avoid a blow
his grasp relaxed, there was a dull
thud outside followed by the tearing
scratch of boots against a wall and
the hollow clatter of flying feet. All
David could do was to close the
window and regret that his impetu-
osity had not been more judiciously
restrained.
"Now, what particular thing was
he after?" he asked himself, "But I
had better defer any further specula-
tions on the matter till the morning.
After the fright he had my friend
won't come back again. And I'm
just as tired as a dog."
But there were other things the
next day to occupy David's attention
besides the visit of his noctural
friend. He had found out enough
the previous evening to encourage
him to go farther. And surely Miss
Ruth Gates could not refuse to gt• o
him further information,
Ho started out to call at 2111,
Brunswick Square, as soon as he
deemed it excusable to-do so. Miss!
Gates was out, the solemn butler
said, but she might i1'e found in the
square gardens. David came upon
her presently with a book in her lap
and herself under a shady tree. She
was not reading, her eyes were far
away. As she gave David a warm
greeting there was a tender bloom on
her lovely face.
"Oh, yes, I got home quite right."
she said. "No suspicion was aroused
at all. And you?"
"I had a night thrilling enough for
yellow covers, es Artemus Ward
says. I came here this morning to
throw myself on your mercy, Miss
Gates. Were I disposed to do so, 1
have information enough to force
your hand. But I prefer to hear
everything from yom' lips."
"Did Enid tell you anything?"
Ruth faltered.
"Well, she allowed me to know a
great deal. In the first place, I
know that you had a great hand in
bringing me to 218 the other night.
I know that it was you who suggest-
To Enliven th Liver
Aid igestion and Regulate the Action of
the owels You dust Use
Dr. Ch .se's ney-Li'„'er Pans
The Creat Specific for Liver and Kidney Diseases.
2t is the liver t.liat is largely re-
sponsible for indigestion s o and consti-
pation—derangements
onsti-
p
'm—drn unntsth are acon-
t
patu C n i, t u
stant'source of trouble.
The bile, Which, tvlicn left in the
blood, is n poison to the system,
causing bilionsnees, headache and
muddy C
om laxnu homilies nf
price-
less
ic
e
10ss value when passed into Ifno in
testines
to alt! digestion and ensure
regular action of the bowel?.
The healthy liver separates bile
from the blood and sends it info the
intestines.'
IP 'YOU FIND YOUR LIVE$
SLUGGISIi AND TOTLPID IN AC-
TION" DB,. CHASE'S I{IDNE'Y-
LX' 7ER, PILLS WILL BRING RE-
LIE7'i AND CURE MORE
1:tO11IPTL`S' THAN ANY TREAT-
MENT YOU COULD FIND.
I3y enlivening the action of the
liver they remove the enema of bilious-
neee, headache, indigestion, constipa-
tion and other aoconrpanying aymp-
tolnll, -
This spetiflc action of Dr. Chase's
ii1
tnt.tliv+,• Pills s c i. 1•'
,n the liver u Is
what makes thein of se great worth
us a family inrcltcine and ensures
diem a. lasting place in the 110010.
Mr. Rogers Clancy, fanner,
Chop -
stater, Bruce County, Ont., writes:—
"I
ices —'I hhto timid
Dr. Ctn as Kidney -
Liver Pills and would my that there
is no niichcine that equate them as a
cure for stomach troubles, biliousness,
torpid liver and headache. 1' way
troubled a great deal with these ail-
ments before usiltg Dr. C'hase's leict-
ney-.lever' Pills, and they have proven
wonderfully eucci'ssful in my ens0."
Obe pi11 n dost at be;ltilne, arid Di
Chase's leidney-I ivcr Yilns will en -
sura healthful, regular action of kid-
neys, liver and bowels; 21 cents a
box, at all dealers, or F/dmanson.
Bates & Co., Toronto. The portrait
and signature of 1)r. A. W. Chase,
the fatuous receipt hook author are
on °very box.
ed that idea, and it tens you who
facilitated the use of Sir. Gates's
telephone. How the thing was stage
managed matter's very little est pre-
sent.. It turns out now that your
friend and Dr, Bell and myself have
at common enemy."
Ruth looked up swiftly There was
something like fear in her eyes.
"Have—have you discovered the
name of that enemy?" she asked.
"Yes, I know now that our foe is
Mr. Itegleald Menson."
"A man who is highly respected. A
man who stands wonderfully high in
public estimation. There are thou-
sands and thousands of people who
look upon him ael a groat and estim-
able creature. He gives largely in
charities, ho devotes a good deal of
his time to the pool'. My uncle who
is a good man, if you like, declares
that Reginald Henson is absolutely
indispensable to hint. At the next
election that man is certain to be
returned to Parliament to represent
an important northern constituency.
If you told my uncle anything about
hint, he would laugh at you,
"I kava not the slightest intention
of approaching your uncle on this
matter at present."
"Because you could prove nothing,
Nobody can prove anything."
"But Christiana Menson may in
time."
Once more Ruth flashed a startled
look at her companion.
"So you have discovered something
about that?" she whispered.
"I have discovered everything
about it. Legally speaking, the
young lady is dead. She died last
night, as Dr. Walker will testify.
She passed away in the formula pre-
sented by me the night that I met
her in the darkness at 218, Bruns-
wieiff Square, Now, will you be so
good as to tell me how those girls
got hold of my synopsis?"
"That came about quite naturally,
Your synopsis and proof In an open
mvelopo were accidentally slipped
nto a large circular envelope used
cy a firm of seed merchants and
addressed to Longdean Grange, scut
out no doubt amongst thousands of
others. Chris saw it and, prompted
by curiosity, read it. Out of that
our little plot was gradually evolved.
You See, I was at school with those
two girls and they have few secrets
i from me. Naturally, I suggested
the scheme because I see a great deal
of Reginald Henson. He comes here;
be also comps very Iroquently' to our
house in Prince's Gate. And yet I
am sorry, from the bottom of my
heart, that I ever touched the thing
for your sake."
The last words were spoken with a
glance that set David's pulses beat-
ing. He took Ruth's half -extended
hand in his, and it was not with-
drawn.
"Don't worry about me," he said.
"I shall tomo out all right in the
end. Still, I shall look eagerly for-
ward to any assistance that you can
afford me. For instance, what hold
has Henson got on his relatives?"
"That I cannot tell you," Ruth
cried, "You must not ask me. But
we were acting for the best; our
great object was to keep you out of
danger "
"There is no clangor to me if I can
only clear myself," Steel replied. "11
you could only tell me where those
bank -notes came from! When I
think of that part of the business I
am filled with shame. And yet if
you only knew how fond I am of my
home. At the same time, when I
found that I was called upon to help
ladies in distress I should have re-
fused all offers of reward. If I had
done so I should have had no need
of your pity. And yet—and yet it is
vetsweet to me."
He pressed the hand in his and the
pressure was returned. David for-
got all about his troubles for the
time; and it was very cool and pleas-
ant and quiet there.
"I am afraid that those notes were
forced upon us," she said. "Though
I frankly believe that the enemy does
not know what we have learnt to do
from you. And as to the cigar -case:
would it not be easy to settle that
matter by asking a few questions?"
"My dear young lady, I have done
so. And the more questions I ask
the worse it is for me. The cigar -
case I claimed came from Walen's
beyond all question, and was pur-
chased by the mysterious individual
now in the hospital. I understood
that, the cigar -case was the very ono
I admired at Locichart's some time
ago, and—"
If you inquire at Lockhart's you
will find such to be the ease."
David looked up with a puzzled ex-
pression. Ruth spoke so seriously,
and with such an air of firm convic-
tion, that he was absolutely, stag-
gered.
"So I did," he said. "And was
informed in the most positive way
by the junior partner that the case
I admired had been purchased by an
American called Smith and sent to
the Metropole after he had forward-
ed dollar -notes for it. Surely you
don't suppose that a firm like Lock -
hart's would bo guilty of anything—"
Ruth rose to her feet, her face pale
and resolute,
"This must be looked to," she
said. "The cigar -case sent to you
on that particular night was pur-
chased at Lockhart's by myself and
paid for with my own money!"
(To be Continued.)
IIOW ELEI'IIANTS SLEEP.
,'' said a Sant
"That elephant,'' circus
men, "has slept standing up for -a
Year. IIe is ninety, and what little
sleep he requires he takes on his
feet, An elephant in his crime only
Weeps five horn's night, and
lc 9 4 a a the
s r g ,
older he grows the less sleep he
nerdy. This good fellow here mete-
Orally needs no sleep at all. At
%whatever hour of the day or night I
come to 11110, he strands patiently it
hie place, rocking from side to side,
I know he sleeps a little, hut for
years now his nape have been so
short that he hasn't bothered to lie
down for then, Nearly all old ule-
phnrnts are lute this."
"T can't bear thee bpi's, Totter,
She knows too much," "It is not
whet, she kootes, but what she wants
to teem., and is trying to learn that
annoys me.
1.06 b.6%6662009
ONTHE FARM g;44zozegazzoevans
WINTER LAYERS,
All things considered, pellets are
the best winter layers. The 1111111 who
Is not quite sure that he knows
enough about the chicken bustness to
got winter eggs without fail had bet-
ter put his trust ire pullets. He will
thereby uutterlully lessen Ills chances
of failure. A thoroughly trained.
poultrymen wilt males tiny kind of
hens lay in winter, He knows just.
what is requIre:i to bring about that
end, and if he meets with failure it
is because 110 does nut do as well as
he knows. He has expert knowledge
by which he can attain definite re-
sults if he makes use of it. If he
has old liens to deal with he will
put them under different treatment
than if lie had pullets, but in either
ease he will obtaht eggs. Hp will
understand from the outstare that
the old hetes are a more difficult
"proposition" thtut the pullets, and
that after he has done his best the
returns will fall below what they
would hate been If the conditions had
been the same, but be will make the
best possible use of the material on
hand and compel it to yield returns
which will wipe out the expense ac-
count and turn over a pot besides:
Nothing short of unlooked for un-
avoidable accidents will defeat hive
in the object which he has set out
to attain.
But it is no tank at all to get pul-
lets to lay compared with the dif-
ficulties which have to be overcome
with old hens. Keepers of poultry,
who are not more than half way to
the graduating point had better tie
to the pullets. Nothing but the
most reckless feeding will cause
them to become overfat, and thus be
made worthless as layers for the
balance of the season. They have
no molt to go through with, and do
not need to .be babied along until
the winter is far advanced and held
back in waiting until they have Pro-
vided themselveswitha neer suit of
clothes. Just feed them ea ,you
would any other young healthy ani-
mal which you want to maintain in
a thrifty condition, and give them
comfortable quarters in which to do
the work expected of them, and they
will not dissappoint you. This is
assuming that they were early hatch-
ed end are of laying age, We have
a private opinion that everybody who
wants to obtain the hest possible re-
sults in the way of winter eggs should
keep pullets, and nothing hut pullets,
but it is a matter of particular im-
portance to beginners.
SHEEP NOTES,
Sheep well kept will shear a heav-
ier and better fleece than one poorly
kept.
Corn and oats !nixed in equal parts
make perhaps the best grain food
for sheep.
Sloop fatten fully as well on shell-
ed yarn as on ground feed.
Feed fattening sheep as heavily as
they will bear.
Sheep breeding and growing wool
are arts which allow of no half way
measures.
A farmer to be successful should
never sell poor sheep, but sell fat
ones and fatten poor ones.
Sheep ere indigenous to high hill
land and such lands are most pro-
ftable when devoted to their graz-
ing.
The progeny of an old ram, is
stronger at birth than the progeny
of a young one and not so liable to
succumb to cold,
iA sheep is a delicate animal and
its system will give way under ex-
posure which other stock would
stand with impunity.
It is claimed that corn fed sheep
suffer more from scab than ethos's.
Scab is only the effects of a fevered
condition of the blood and corn is a
most heating food.
A line fleece, long, strong and tine
filtered, clear of lard yellow germs,
but shelving enough clear oil to make
ES Mt
Y THRIVE?
If not, something must
be wrong with its food. If
the mother's milk doesn't
nourish it, she needs SCOTT'S
EMULSION. It supplies the
elements of fat required for
the baby. If baby is not
nourished by its artificial
food, then it requires
:+wt- coifs
4
Effision
d
f
1
i'
Half a teaspoo'Iflil three
or four times a day in its
bottle will bring the desired
result, It seems to have a
magical effect upon babies
and children.
SCOTT & noteNS, Cliomis%s, Toronto. 0111,
NATURAL GREEN tea of Ceylon to The i ival of
Japan." Free from all chemical coloring and adul-
teration
dul .teration in any form whatever, of great strength,
delicious and pure. Sealed packets only, same form
as the celebrated Black teas of " SALADA " 13rancl.
25c and 4oc per lb. By all grocers,
it soft, bright and easily manufac-
tured is what utatlu(ncLurors watts
Every clean pound edited to the
fleece is just that hutch clear gain;
as also is every cant added to the
value of the fleece by improving its
quality,
Sheep require a variety of lino
nourishing foods, rather than Hutch
of a single kind of coarse provauder,
A safe rule to be observed in the
management of the flock to matte it
profitable is never to Icee0 a worth-
less sheep or breed a weakly one.
Meat of any lcind must be front
animals its the beast condition, 0t- it
will not be palatable, and especially
is this true of mutton,
The best meatus of obtaining a pro-
fit from any class of stock is to keep
the best and keep it well; and this
applies especially to sheep.
Sheep are especially suited to the
small farmer and the fanner of liar
iced means an account of the small
amount of capital ant limited range
necessary,
Prevention is better than cure,
and the cliseae'es and parasites to
which - sheep are subjectedcan be
prevented more easily than can be
cured after they once secure a siert,
In culling flocks, include all the
undersized flat -ribbed, weak consti-
tut'ioned sheep. No difference how
well wooled they luny be these arc
not perfect sheep and should not be
kept,
AND f.
R ARO1� A.
According to Starch, whose inves-
tigations /lave been very- extensive,
the flavor of butter is derived from
the serum, not from the fat or cream.
Butter produced from first skinned
cream which has been churned while
still sweet, is deficient in that fine
flavor which is characteristic of but-
ter of the highest type. On the
other hated, it retains the mild, deli-
cate flavor of the cream. The weal-
thier of the French consumers prefer
butter of this kind. It is made in
comparatively small quantities, but
it is imitated to an enormous ex-
tent by the aid of almost tasteless
fat of another kind, with which but-
ter of fuller flavor is blended.
The- flavor of good butter is im-
proved by the addition of a small
quantity of very fine, dry salt. The
addtion of salt if preferable after the
butter has been partially worked.
Brining, excellence as the practice is,
cannot take the place of dry salting,
so far as it contributes to the im-
provement of flavor,
Flavor is also affected by the food
given the cow. Where the milk is
properly managed, complaints aro
never made when cows are fed on
grass or hay.
Under stall feeding, excessive quan-
tities of roots, sour grains, rape, or
cabbage, deteriorate flavor. Sour"
ensilage and fermented foods of all
kinds are also uutrustwortliy in a
grass are bran, cotton cake, oats,
butter dairy. Among the best suit-
able foods for addition to hay, and
pea meal and malt cute's.
The aroma of butter is no guide)
to its steeping quality, however agree-
able it may be on the palate. It
changes rapidly in newly -made butter
which is exposed to light or air.
This fact will be observed if a test
is made at the end of twenty-four
hours.
As with flavor, the Gnome of good
butter, insipid • immediately it has
been made, requires time to [levee
lop. For this reason, among others,
the practice of judging butter direct
from the churn is incorrect.
Ducleux thinks that aroma may
proceed from the products of the
ferments in the cream, or perhaps to
some traces of cabeoic or butryic
either formed at the expense of small
quantities of these acids, which are
present in all butters in a free state.
Butter which is almost white, is
inferior in flavor to that which is
rich in natural. color. In England
the ownets of Guernsey cattle make
the claim that the butter from their
milk is of superior flavor, owing to
its high color. Here is a field for
investigation by, some of our exper-
iment stations.
GENERAL INI'OR1VTATION.
Little Bits of Knowledge About
'Most Everything.
Great Britain _owes half the ships
that are afloat.
Thiev-e in Great Britain steal $40-
000,000 worth of proirerty every
year.
The Belgians are the greatest Po -
tate -eaters in the world, antd tate
Irish come second.
A railway locomotive has an aver•
age life of fifteelt years and an earn-
ing capacity of $800,000.
An acro of good fishingground will
yield more foad inawee
k than an
acro of the last land will in year.
A. statistical expert has stated that
three-fifths of all man of distinction
aro first-born children.
Deaths from starvation, in Great
Britain have fallen from eighteen to
twelve' per million in the last thirty
years,
The Imperial Canal in China is the
longest itt the world, and conneots
no fewer than forty-one cities in the
course of its 800 miles,
A :Russian is not of gem until lie is
twonty-six years old. Until that
thee at least four-fifths of the earn«
fags must go to his perente.
The largest boost In the world is fn
the ib'itislx Mesuom, It is an atlas;
measuring 5 feet, 10 in. by 3 feet 2
in., and weighing close upon 2 cwt,
In Arizona tite rectus grows to an
immense 5100, and there is one sPeci-
ttlent—doubtless the largest in the.
world—which is 232 fret high.
+
The amount of consemm
us onre-
ceived
ceived yearly by tau British Chan-
cellor of the Exchequer in default of
unpaid taxes averages $30,000.
The largest loom in the world is
one recently built in Germany - for
1)5801115 artists' painting cloth, it
is capable of weaving fellings 48 ft.
wide..
Loddon has the largest proportion
of insane of any English city, the
number being 861 per 1.00,000. Not-
tingham is a close second, with 340
per 100,000,
Thomas Forryan, of Burbage, Eng-
land, who is eighty, has worked for
sixty years on one farm. IIe has
been awarded by the Dunce of Rut-
land a prize of $15.
The French Government employs
1,550 workmen and 15,000 women
in' the Stats tobacco manufactories,
and makes a yearly profit of $80,-
000,000,
80;000,000,
The bamboo sometimes grows 2 ft.
in twenty-four hours. There are
thirty varieties of this tree; the
smallest is only 6 in. in height and
the largest 110 feet.
Water -pipes lined with chinaware,
and which are embedded in cement in
iron pipes, are being t:sed in Coburg,
Saxony. They are thought to bo
indestructible.
In London, according to the latest
statistics, there is hut one telephone
for every sixty families. In New
Yot'k there is one for twelve, in Bos-
ton one for six, in San Francisco one
for four.
Sweden has the oldest vessel in
Europe—perhaps in the world—in the
schooner Emmanuel, built in 1749.
She was first a privateer, and is now
in the timber trade,
The little tailor -bird not only sews
but spins, weaving raw cotton into
thread for its own" purposes. With
this thread it sews with actual stit-
ches a sack of leaves in which to
tear its young.
Indiarubber trees which are tapped
every other,lny continue to yield sap
for more than twenty years; and it
is a curious fact that the oldest and
most frequently tapped trees produce
tho richest sap.
In Denmark any person who at the
age of twenty -ono pays to the State
a sum of $82.50 is entitled, if he
reaches the age of sixty-five, to an
tumult). of $65. But if be dies be-
fore that age the money is forfeited.
The Japs.nese language contains no
fewer than eighteen synonyms for the
personal pronoun "I" one for each
class of people; and etiquette makes
it unlawful for a person belonging
to one rank in society to males use
of the pronoun pertaining to another.
On a recent Sunday morning in
ten City of London churches, which,
if sold, would produce half a million
of money, there were, including child-
ren, only 218 worshippers, although
they provide accommodation for
nearly 4,000 and possess an income
of $28,700 a year.
The police court of St. Holier, the
principal town of Jersey, is remark-
able in several respects. First, the
proceedings are always opened with
prayer; second, it frequently happens
that after privets there is no more
business, and everyone goes home.
There is so little cringe committed in
the island tient the police force
(twenty strong) is kept up only for
visitors.
ete
••• ooJai k ♦e
Di' SSOT,
(nl1ipleuohtus in tNhe latesESt models is
the gigot, or leg of nnttloit Steel's, as
wal'il ill 18U0. 'Phis appears in the
bolero and kaftan coats in cloth and
bel,ny fabrics, it is certainly ad-
mirable for for, velvet, and very
thick textures, but lacks smat'Lness
when applied to the ardinale. cos-
tume. Blouses of Lhe present fash-
ion aro impossible under these
sleeves.
Skirts are still very full, and of
quite moderate length, but this fash-
ion is by no nears universal., and
some al the smartest modistes are
making long skirts wills plain !tips,
although the harness starts teemed -
lately below the ..hip line. Pleated
shirts show much variation, but the
pleats seldom run high, and the skirt
which eppears to be pleated from the
waist is really cut in smell gores,
the seams folded and stitched out-
side, and the pleats made by extort-
sions, • which are pressed and left
free. L;ven the plain skirts in tailor
style 'stave two or three of these
pleated extensions to give fulness at
the hent. leveeing skirts are still
very long all round, but there is no
shaped train, the increase in length
being gradual, and docs not run to a
point.
Belts are of the utmost importance
In the fussier type of gown, and the
newest bodices and blouses are ac-
companied by shaped belts, which
lengthen the wrist and Savo sleep
paints at the back.
The newest shapes in felt are the
big Romney hat, with the left side of
the brim tilted, and the torpedo
toque in a, new forte, which is quite
as projecting, but the sides have a
deeper turn. In (lireet contradiction
to the fiat toques anal soup plates of
the early summer, all hats and toq-
ues, are now worn high, and the
tightly -drawn veil has no loose ends
at the back. The loose veil obtain-
ed no favor amongst well-dressed wo-
men, but few even arrange the tight
veil gracefully.
--
EVENING GOWNS.
Aurid the maze of colors which one
sees, whits holds its own for evening
wear. This is true of gowns for af-
ternoon receptions and coming out
parties. ltlesselaine and liberty satin
in all their seductiveness are used.
and combined with lace and all kinds
of embroideries
A dainty' design for a debutante is
of cream white messelaino. It is
very simple and trimmings of silk 1
gauze lend a delightfully fluffy effect.
The lace which forms the chief de-
coration is set with tiny motifs of '.
velvet in shades of yellow. The stock
and corsage aro draped with chiffon,
set with the lace and brightened with
tiny motifs of velvet, The yoke is
also outlined with folds of velvet,
showing dares colors, toning from
pale yellow to deep orange. Ttvo
deep points of lace with the orange
yellow motifs coyer the front of the
bodice; the corsage belt is high at
one side; tho bodice is shirred full
clown the back, and the sleeves are
full with a deep frill of lace outlining '
the outer seam, and finishing it at
the lower edge. Little loops of the
thine S10Ules of velvet. finish the gown
at different points here and there.
DOUBLE-BRP:ASTED COATS.
The long coats which go with tail-
or-macle suits are very close -fitting
and the fulness below the hips in-
creases. Indeed, it is almost circu-
lar in effect. The double-breasted
designs are very smart, A hand-
some model in clull blue velvet - is
trimmed with burnt leather. - The
skirt is stitched with wide bands of
the same material, arranged vortical-
ly and' these are In turn finished with
strips of tete leather. The lower
edges of the coat at the front aro al-
so turned back enol finished with
burnt leather.
The sleeves are n series of winding
bias folds draped over a pull of out -
bre cloth. At the waist there is a
cuff of cloth and leather, the latter
being sandwiched between stitched
bands of the cloth^
MOPS USED IN OLDEN T1IVIES.
Used in the Manufacture of Beer
Long Ago.
We have evidence in the herbarium
of Apuleins. A.D., 1050, that the
hop (hymele) was put into the usual
drinks of England oval then on ac-
count of its good clualtties. Another
old work published about 1440
speaks of 'hoppe, sede for beyre,"
Undoubtedly, therefore, hops were
cultivated in England long before the
time .of Home- VIII„ when they were
intt'ocluced afresh from Flanders.
So rn.pl:lly did they' then grow in
public favor that a strongly worded
petition to Parliament against them
was presented, in which the hop is
spoken of as "a winked tweed that
would spoil the taste of the drink
attd endanger the people," We clo
not find that any ection rues taken
against them through Hutch prejudice
existed against chink so made.
Trapp, the Puritan commentator,
in 1654, in annolattng Job xxxix,
18, remarks :—"They were wont to
snohere that peacocks, ks hops
and
hesie
came first into England in
0110 and 'tey, sante ship."
RUM FOR GUNS,
The British expedition into Tibet
net with somee unexpected problemsm
duo ,Lo the intense cold. Tlie water
-
jackets of the Maxim guns 1)0101110
a source of danger, as they froze
tight, To prevent this, a mixture
of half rum and half water was used.
The oil in the locks of the rifles and
Maxims clogged, and ennead endless
misfiring. The only way in which
this could be overcome was to have
the mens cat'ry, the leeks of the Max-
ims
axims inside then. clothes, and to take
their rifles to bod. with them on very
cold 111511te.
The number of canals in operation
in the United Stator exceeds twenty
tliousctltci, aree their combined length
is not loss tshan fifty 111100saed tnilee,
SILK IN 1r,VIDENOE.
Tlie approach of cold weather has
by no meats iintttened tite retirement
of silk gowns, Indeed, these crisp,
fresh afternoons sec many handsome
designs in taffeta and other fashion-
able silks on the Bois de Bolguo
drive, sworn under handsome coats
of the sante material, or of cloth.
Strikingly hatalsome was a design in
beaver colored silk. It was all soft-
ness end long lhnre, with a hint of
Louis quince, gaorlarse, Napoleon
and probably at touch of llirocioira
combined, rhe skirt was formed of
narrow groups of small plafies, each
edged with white plaits its entire
length separating plain panels of
lace, showing a tiny bit of pale blue.
The bodice is vary long in 11'0111,
With a jacket effect, on either side,
this outlined with pipings of white,
Tho vest is of lace ;labeled down the
r tt from neck to .telt the lattice
fon I
being f eaves C010ncd elect
b g a b � c,
A 1301)101/ 'rIUMMINO.
A pretty 50(13' in 111E1110 a bodice
look very congtlteat 0;1,y 'et without
great expense, s
. 1. 0 t I trim it with et
g n
b
k -late, outline
y o e o l' all-over t then u 11, 1. o
circles, fl ur Iter
ci ., a i da lis or of dainty
patterns, over 010 lace with a fine.
etsginig - of real vnlencicmtes ince.
The edging gives tire. effect of separ-
ate meclallioes comibined with tete all-
over lace, and frequently these bod-
ices look as if they .Were tu'itnmecl
with fence instead .of 150 kinds of
lace. e• 4•4 nn
Below the yolca little appliques of
embroidery are, set in at regular iu-
te•vols, then finished with the Val-
enciennes edging, The rose end.
other flower enbrohlery bought by
Lilo yard sa51 cut apltt't answer handl-.
!mutely Pot' this purpose, enil'tnothing
Makes a more offocleve, trinmming.'