The Wingham Advance, 1911-11-02, Page 2The seience of deess is an all-abeoreing
study, and that medern dress is a sci-
ence that demand§ . incessant .study no
earnest thinker will deny. Under the
guise of apperenesimplicity lie hidden
naysteries of line .aml color, weile under
apparent complexity of manufacture are
concealed fundamental rules that once
learned. enable any woman of average
ihtelligence to. be $o well gowned that
she will be considered notieeably smart.
"Line upon line, precept upon pre-
cept," the motto so laboriously tolled
os-er in the old-time eopy books, may
well be taken as the wetchword of mod-
ern fashions, for if each and every lino
be not carefully ,studied and earefulty
adapted to the individual the smartest
and most elaborate gown will be voted
unsatisfactory.
Inciivithial Style.
. It is unusually fate in the season for
the arbitrary rules of fashion to be is-
sued, and. there lad. general consensus of
opinion that arbitrary rules are to be,
for the present, at least, waived and
that there will be More opportueity for
women to choose styles becoming to the
individual rather than to blindly follow
rules without regard to size or shape.
Waists may be large, but hips niust
be small; skirts 'may be full, but they
must not look Wide. Bine effects are
fashionable end straight lines are obli-
gatory. These are just a few of the con-
tradietory statements; vouchsafed to the
seek after reliable infotmation on the
subject of the winter fashions.
In despair the lete summer raodels are
turned. to, those models tbat have been
put forward weeks saner' the general
openings of the suirtmer fashions have
been held -the Models that the more
exclusive dressmekets furnish to their
most eiclusive customers. who demand
original ideas. Be it keown that these
same gowns furnish the niodels for the
.next season, and the Clever woman
watches for them and has her winter
gowns copied from them, if she sees an
especially attractive model. She recog-
nizes that in this *ay she can secure ore
• ginality df design.
Cream Lace Fashionable.
Lace is to play an important pelt in
al dregs this winter and the shops are
filled with the. ;nest wonderful variety
ordesign.s and Widths. in all kintle. The
cream • and. dark& shades to Olt are
more fashionable than white, and these
are used on all ark materials as well as
in light. Heityylaee dyed to match the
gown is also in feevor,• but this is not to
be rashly recommended, as it requires
a good <polity orlace and an expensive
one, othervvise W ee,es not -dye well and
soon Moks gray: -.M1 Venetian lace de-
signs are popular, while Chtny and filet
are:shown in a most remarkable diver-
sity. .patterns. For winter street
gowns there are beavier lacee used for
trimming,eiind these are henenly embroi-
dered, so that only glimpses of the net
inay he seem. 'But for gowns to be worn
now tiny. ofstbe heavier laces are appro-
priate, while for the house or for the
gowns to be worn uuder fur coats and
long &ate there is no rule as to what
lace is appropriate. Some of the new
laces reeemble elosely the cut work that
wee so ftishiona.ble a few years ago and
which was so effective with the cloth
gowns.
For the evening !ace gowns are of
the most expensive order, anti the ex-
quisite fabric is used with an apparently
reckless disregard of eoet. Allover lase
and Pace more than half a yard in width
Is taken and apparently wrapped around
the figure in horizontal lines, the low-
est wrapping disclosing a pointed train
e•dged with satin. or soft teffeta. One or
two breadths of lace fall from the left
eboulder to the Item of the skirt, very
much as the sash bt the Highland coo-
tume falle from the shoulder. It is one
of the most eccentric of the present ee-
centric styles now in favor, but, strange
to relate ,has a charm and eertitin smart
look is worn by a slender woman. It is
needless to say there is a perfeet fitting
gown of white satin worn beneath it.
Color Effects. ,
Combining satin or silk with the lace
is most eleverly done and seems to en-
hance ite beauty. The same shade as the
lace can be chalet, or a white with cream
lace, or, if preferred, a color or even
blac keau.be used. The last two have
the objection thet they ;reeve such dia.
tistet contrast as to etit the figure, inter-
fere with the underlying straight liners,
but it is a question to be decided by
individual taste Whether the all white
is the more becoming and effeetive or
whether the eontrast of Meek .or eolor si
more clearable.
Crepe do chine is one of the popular
materials for the Autumn and winter
arid plain n,nd figured are used ot make
up the afternoon gown that for lunch.
ems and card parties is so neeessary.
Later on velvet or velveteen will take
plitee, to a eertain extent, but there
ere few safer investmenta than the grope
de chine gown 'Week or eolored. Black
vvith yellowieei laee is so Niemen* and
smart, while cream white with laee to
match and relieved with teethes Of
color in velvet belt and bow or revers
on the Wait& In one of the tew shades
of blue green or mative-any otte
these will be omen and attmetive
the Atilt material is selected trimming
eta be neceesary; if the brocaded or
eigured, then folds of silk or satin or
eeMe tomb of velvet will he allesuffi-
.eletit, and be it remembered that bre.
tinted effeete of all khalifs are trioet
faahlortable this winter, The broseded
velvet pewee tire the Martel et the
stew models.
Silk Entleaskiery Wed.
The heitvy elik embrnidery rie.v en
fashionable is a marked feature of the
Meter styles and the manner in welt:hit
is 'combined with the tbin, trausperent
materials is most effective. 'Sheer voile
isoie,.niessaline and, thiffon are com.
hinei with libeety silk or satin that ie
eornpletely covered with An elaborate
design worked in heavy silk, sometimes
having jet or steel beads entireiy cover-
ing the embroidery. On the olassic,
Mg robes this heavy embroidery &Iowa
the best.
Worked on a panel of. the tunic it
hangs straight and the desi„on come-
quently is moat distinet, nharraing
model is of white satin with overdresm
of heavy silk embroidered liverty eatin.
This is slashed at the side to show a
gown of chiffon or voile de soie through
which shines the white satin. It is of
necessity an expensive, model, not one
to be reality attemptee, but most attrac-
tive, artistic and beeoraing It can be
copied Jo brocade iustead of em'breid-
ered satin, but theirthere is the danger
of its individuality being twit.
All brocaded, materials are iu demand.
The evening gowns of brocaded satin,
silk nod velvet are 'superb in design,
color and texture, while the brocade vel-
vets for reception gowns are endless in
number. Gold and silver Mooed° for
bail gowns, with waist trimniings of
Venetian poine lacer are marvellously
beautiful, and when •meney is no object
are well woeth the prices asked, but
these same prices are prohibitory for
the majority. Next iu price are the
other brocades without silver and geld,
but these also ean be costly if the more
expensive qualities are chosen. Fortun-
ately there is a wide range of choice
and there aro to be found many that
arts meat beautiful end at a price that
is possible, while the triter:liege of the
waist can be within tbe reach of a
limited dress. allowance.
• Careful Choice of Fabrics.
In selecting the gowns for the winter
the woman with only a certain amount
of money tosexpend must select carefully
the fabrics she wants, and also must
decide only after careful consideration
on the number of goWns she will require
to carry lier through the season. Never
were there such superb and each expen-
sive materials, never was the cost of
dressmaking greater, and to be smarfey
gowned seems at the moment of far
more serious imperta,nce t•han ever. But
there is another side to the question
and the silver lining in the dark cloud
lies in the great yieriety of materiels to
choose frorn, with the corresponding
variety in cost, the fact teat the
majority of diesexinekers, the lower as
well as the highef•peleed, "know elothes,"
that is, Understand moth etter than
ever what /style alas eateh cestomer.
Then a few geed Tither thee a quantity
of half -way gownseis accepted as the
only wise plan; and on the few good onee
can be lavished all the money and all the
effort that would. have to cover the many
half -way ones. And with the knowledge
of what is becomieg and the expenditure
of careful thought and good taste, marf
venous aesults may he runiomplished at
surprisingly small outlay of ready
money. A, T, Ashmore.
THE CRINOLINE.
Is the cinoline coming back?
A few weeks ago a woman of fashion
appeared on the streets of Paris wearing
a hoop. skirt designee by Peen Poret.
The eeetilina-was a vivid green and into
the lower edge of the chiffon thitie had
been run a piece of stiff featheehone
which made it atand Out hoop -like about
her figure, Although this gown created
the s.ensation of the season, other less
daring designers brought out models
with hoops of moderate Size 'width not
only the Frdneh but American svomen as
well did not hesitate to buy,
Likely, when the winter season is well
launched, and society promenades once
snore on Michigan avenue, every smart
woman will be surrounded by the magi°
circle of her hoop. There are decided
indications everywhere that the winds
of fashion are blowing. strongly in the
direction of the crineline. Even now
maoy skirts cling less loogely about the
ankles and some have a decided fare -
out et the bottom edge.
When the wzard of fashion was re-
cently questioned. above the revival of
the boop skirt, he said, "Yes, it is quite
true that the crinoline is coming back
into fashion this winter, but in e modifi-
ed form, Hoops wIl be employed at the
bottom of the skirts as in our grand-
mother's days, but not in such exagger-
ated dee,"
Hoop Skirt Has Long Pedigree.
However, .our grandmothera Were not
by any meang the first women to Wear
the hoop skirt. It boasts pedigtee
long enough to satisfy the most exacting
!atty. It• is spoken of as arty as in
the reigns of Ed:Ward VI., Mare' Tudor
and Ilent7 'VI, Of Feenee, kW that 9f
Queen. Mary of England MAY Well he
eeneidered tbe ere of the erineliee, It
Wile called the farthingale in those days.
The farthingdale resembled a cage
worn tinder the pettioat, to width It
gave the,thepe of a bell, increasing in
size till it teached, in Elizabeth's reign,
the most preposterous dimetteions, To-
ward the .elose of her reign the sipi.0
was slightly altered, beeoming more
like a wheel or drum, and it was there-
fore gaited. the wheel farthiegale. Queen
Eitzabeth in her best portraits ie rep-
tesented as Welling tide partienlet
thane%
%.The tuition lasted all amines the
reign of James I„ and hie queen, Anne of
Denmark, is painted in a 14051101P skirt,
the plaite eurronilding her Waist Wing.
the appettranee of the spoke of a wheel,
A historian of that ere. telha ot the ef-
fect of the farthingale on the Sultana
of Turkey at Constantinbple. Lady
•Wyrieh the antbaeitedor's wife, et the
request' of the Sultana, went to the Del-
ete to pity her respeet8 itecompattied by
her welting. womee, all dressed in their
great hoop skiriss The Sultane recede-
ee hereeleitbrs greciouely, but, ambled
et the tottre.ordinat7 exteneion of the
hips of- the. party, iteriottely inquired if"
that WAS tha vatural shape of the Ent
lighwomen, andlatly Wyeth was obliged
to explein the ItirStery of the dress* In
order to show the Seltaritt that they'
were not really deformed.
Farthingale RiviVed ati""Paniel!S"
In the reign, ef Charlell T, the farth-
ingale -Wee fdill Worn Afterwards ir
dieappeared for ft time, thee CAM hl
sue& under the mime ot In
Ffillteri it Wag celled at fiat "pattlata-
oo,ude," becalm it served as an elbow
rest.
How euormous it bemuse may let
judged from the fact that it watt the
enbject of serious conelderatioh with the
French minister, Cardinal Fleury. When
the queen attended the opera she !sat
between two prineeeses, ard tit eremite
Wee that her majesty Wail coinpletely
hidden by the hoops of ner companions.
This amounted to a positice scandal in
French eyes: but it was imposeible that
the queen ehould go to the opiira unat-
tended, and it was equally Impossible,
for the princesses to go without theft'
hoops. The problem was finally solved
when orders Were given that a space
should be left vacant on either side of
the queen. Titia instruction was carded
Out, but the haughty princesses had zio
Intention of being eclipsed in their turn,
and demanded that a amber spaee
should be left them and the dueltess.
A fashion paper advised women either
to leave their hoops at home or take a
sedan chair or a coach wheel, they shop-
ped.
Hoops were worn everywhere, at all
times mid seasons, in the morning as
well as the evening, and by both young
and old. it was not always a neasy
matter to squeeze a woman in a lerge
a sedan chair.
hoop into a ,lind_te_d space afforded by
LONG COAT IN PAR:18.
It Is Creem White and Trimmed.
With Fur.. •
The most distinguithee things 1 have
seen, writes our Paris correspondent, are
the long cream cloth coats trimmed with
white fox or ermine, and wore with -big
black velvet hats trimmed with lovely
'Ames or aigrettes.
With the •coats and skirts white - or
light felt hats were the regular Oleg.
Blue ,serge trimmed with Septet plaid
,and wool iring,e looked extretnely well,
and the hats worn with suck striking
autumn. suits were in the, thape of
tormee trimmed either with smart feath-
er fantasies or with ribbons put on in
masses. The long dresses under • the
cloaks showed draperies, but evidently
the cloaks ware meant to be the emin-
ent notes in the toilettes.
Lovely fur etoles were swathed round
slender figures, chiefly in erinine or
Breitsphwanz, and one woman was weav-
ing an ermine toque trimmed.with one
huge pale pink rose and a Minch pf
spiky aigrettes. A few women carried
muffs, very huge and showing endless
tails and lace and ceiffon
FUR FINENESS.
It has come.
And it is lovely.
Coats continue lengthy.
Fur "sets" are of great beauty..
Cross!, fox and the various foxes lead
Ermine is the leading fur for dresi
wear.
There. are entire ermine opera cloaks,
lovely 'things.
Leopard skins make it mein 'coats
for metor weft/.
Dress. wraps are • of seal, sable -dyed
siquirreli mole and baby laanb, some be-
ing trinuneeseeith a' contrasting 'fur.
AMAZING .MODES STARTLE PARIS
ss - e
Bewildeting Aix -Up of Summers. Fall
and Winter Dresses, Hats
• • - ...aend Wraps.
• Parkeeeleeshien, as one gees it in the'
streetgeof Parie just now, is bewildering.
It shelve diesees and hats for sunnner,
autumri and .Winter and we do not find
any of .theitenut of place. Women who
Wive aireadylaought their near autumn
suits,.iutturaley wear thern; women who
have not, still walk about in Tussore
or crepe de thine.
A few chilly people have shown magni-
fieent furs during the last few days.
Amazing Millinery.
Atuf as to hale, they era even more
amazing tit their yeryieg quality than
the dresses they top, The hat of the
hour ie, however, the soft, squashy felt,
which drops • into any shape one likes,
trimmed with a gay feather fantasy and
tied round with a rather thick white
lice veil. All. sorts of peOple Wear this
hat, and by the way 'they do so one
can lel to a shade where they" belong
in the social:scale. The way not to wear
it is to crate it down on the •head and
make it look like a son -wester; - the
veil enould not be too thick, either, and
quite the smartest are in cream or gray,
As Seen at the Rapes.'
Several ivomen wore them a.t the races
this week, end when not too rakish in
form 'they looked extremely well. 'The
next favorite in hats is the small, high -
crowned toque in blade veleet or whtte
felt, trimmed with aigrettes, black or
'white, or the trimming may be of mare-
beet- in fact, black velyet. anti mara-
bout are most popular both IA stnall
hats and big onee. 1 ant told that in
the winter the very wide, flat hat Will
be touch WOrB, and there is Some hint
of tuiderneathetrimminge . •
•
RACE RIGS SEEN AT LONG- '
• CHAMPS. ,s
„tostumes Longchamps on Sun-
day were more autumn in tints and tax-
ttuae than any we have seen so far, be-
cause the weather was deeidedly cool,
and in Um monthig heavy raM fal-
len. Most wonten wore quite simnie tell-
or-mades, with felt or velvet hate anti
fur stoles and muffs.
The Marquis de Ganay wore a neat
little suit of gray, striped with, white,
soft gray felt hat trimmed with a phea-
sant's Wing
_Blue Serge,
Mrs. W. K. Vanderbilt was la blue
• ,
serge trimmed with silk to mateh; Prin.
cogs Dhuleep Singh was in blue elle°,
withet blue felt hat and wing to match;
and Mrs. Ridgeway Wee in iron gray
with a grey telt hat Ahmed With dark
ted rinses. A 'slim pretty woman watt a
pretty gray tweed coat and skirt made
up over black Veivet; ehe Velvet formed
the underskirt and the gray material
the 011ie With It she had a hig black
velvet hat trimmed with gray Wed white
featlems. All the stoles are wide and
eoft, and nil the muffs are raenstrous
big.
Black and White, •
Otm girl, dressed in Meek velvet, had
a hat of white marabout with a black
velvet brim turning tip all rounds and it
longovide ttole of marabout salted with
black velvet, Several women wore their
Moles arranged as cloak:n-11ot is te
eay, they Were wound about the body
and fastened dther at the side or in
front near the waistline, so that they
eould not slip away front the figure.
TiqUes and Hats.
'Toques, riotieed, era still wortt low
•
down On the head behind, although not
all of then; in feet, to be nite truth -
led, few Women ean man their heads
into any hat and menage to look web,
end the melon/ do Well to Wear a bar-
ette. The commoit hitt of the moment
Is the tett, eovvhoy felt, worn anyhole.
and tim about with a tblek hoe veil
and the Mart hat le a litie bleak velvet
lone trinitited with white. aigrette;
3 -AV
,LESSON VI.-NOV. 4, 1911.
Esther Pleading For Her People.,
gsth. 4: le5: O.
Coinmentary. 1, Hamaies wicked
plot (vs. 1-9). A few years after Eether
heel bee» suede queen an eveot took
place which deeply affected the inter -
este of the Jews in. the Persian empire.
Ahasuerus had promoted Haman in a
high position la the empire, and all the
servants anti subordinate officers of the
royal court were expeeted to bow down
before him. Since Mordecai was a Jene
he considered the aet of bowing down
before another an act of worship, and
this would be a violation of Jewieh law,
therefore be refused to do it. Mor-
deca's courage angered Hemp' so great-
lys. that the latter plated the deetruc-
ffon not only of MOrdecai, but of all
the Jews in the empire. The king was
InflUenced to sanction a decree foe the
destruction of the Jews, and thus Ha-
mait's injured pride was about to be sat-
isfied. Haman designed to plunder the
Jews and enrich himself with their pro-
perty, offering the king for the privilege
ten thousand talents of silver or about
twenty million dollars. The destruction
of the Jews sews set for the thirteenth
day of ',eclat. about March first, B. C.
473, Upon the medication of the decree
;Mordecai and his fellow Jews were deep-
IY Pained and guve themselves over to
weeping and fasting. 'Mordecai put on
sackcloth in token of his grief and ep-
peered before the royal ealace...that. he
might attract the attentien of Esther,
and thus succeed in making known to
her the plot of Haman.
IT. Esther's opportunity (vs. 10-14).
10. ITatach-An officer appointed to
wait upon Esther, who had °sought. to
her a message from Mordecai. Com-
mantiment-"Message-R. V. It All
..,do know. It was e tmivecsel rule,
which was known by all. Tee reject
of this law was to maintaio both the
dignity and safety ef the king. Golden
sceptre. Persian monarchs are always
representee as holding a long, tapering
staff M the right hand. Have not been
called. .She therefore hatl just cause to
fear the king's affections were aleniat-
'ed fromiher and that neither hor per-
son nor her petition svould be acceptable
to him." Oriental monarchs were fickle
and despotic. In attempting to save her
people the queen must risk everything.
The ardor of the king had, for the time,
cooled toward Esther, and the feared
she had lost heeeinfluence with him, If
so, how could she hope to influence him
for the salvation of the despised Jews?
no must not he surprised that Esther
shranked from obeying the summens of
Mordecai. She proved her heroism by
deciding to go before tee king, although
. knowing the danger to which elle Nyas
exposed.
'13. Think not..that thou shalt,- cs-
eape-The decree was so sweeping ea its
proyisions that no Jew insthe Mnpire
wage exempt. Even Dither,. the (Omen,
tauten° assurance of safety. Sithough
.hersnationality may have been.itepe a
:meta thus far, the fact that sne be -
„longed to the Jenvish race would.be re-
Yettled before' the great slaughter. 14.
Enlargement and deliverantle:.from an-
. other plaee-As Modecai had alteady
shown himself a faithful servent of the
king, and true to, his own race, so also
lie exhibited unshaken confidence M
He believed that God would open a door
of escape for His people. Thou and they
father's betide shall be destroyed -Her
ineetivity would Involve not - oely her-
self but_her family in ruin. Thug she
has nothing to hope from the alterna-
tive. It insures her death; the other
course but. risks it. -Cana Bible. Thou
• ad comeafoe such a time as this -
Mordecai Ited a seer's vision. It was a
peculiar providence that had brought
lether te her place as queeni it was a.
peculiar providence that had brought
the Jews to the verge of destrection;
and it was evklent that a great oppor.
tuulty and a great duty were before her.
TO Mordecai it seemed that Esther was
in a position to save both herself and
her whole nation..1f remained for her to
realize the iniportante of the occasion
and to grasp the opportunity. There
were several reasons why she should
act: 1. Her own life was at stake, as
web as the lives of all her people. 2. She
had a nigh positiog and. iefluence with
the king. 2. She had ft euty to perform
for the. preservation of God's chosen
people. 4. She had nothing to gain and
everything to Mee by remaining
tiv1eIT• . Esther's courage (vs. 15-17). 10.
fast -The need was great, and the most
effeotive means of lielp muse be used.
Fasting with the jet% on that occasion
included an acknowledgment of • help-
lesSness, draWing near to God, and
faith in his ability to deliver them.
While nothing is said directly about
praying, it is easily inferred that the
jews prayed, for fastng and prayer go
together. If I petiale I perish - Her
only hope was in gaining accees to the
king and secaring his favor. She knew
the despotic character of King Ahasuer-
us, and realized thet he had little re -
geed for human life. Het decistoa
afforded an exathple for the
Mordecai weet way - Within the
palace and without there, was eernest
supplication for three days. The Jews
were dolpg their part and were expect-
ingIVr.elPiesfilie;et suteess (vs, 1.3,) 1. The
king sat -The position of 'the king was
such that he could see all who entered
the. court. 2. Saw lestliers-As the king
sat upon the throne, the two Went face
to face, though there was quite a dies
tancebetween them. It wits a ofitiCal
nienterit, but Esther did not forget that
"the heart of the king was in the hand
of the Lord." Touched Bootee -This
wee, eve doubt, the usual way of adopt-
ing the king's favor. 'As the sceptre
was the sign of the highest and most ale.
solute authoritY in the mug, so the
queee's teething it, or as scene hay, kitt-
ing it, Was a token of 'her gubjeetion and
thankfulness for his favor,"
3. It shall be even giveu thee-Earn-
eattleas, courage and united prayer had
availed., Esther's mission was being fun
filled and the deliverauce sought for
did not scent far aWay. It was a toting.
tinte in Esthetes life when she was he -
leg preteeted to become a queen, but the
really crucial point to her Weer was
when elle -decided to epproech the kleg
at the riek of her life to make interces-
sion for her peeple, The remaining
ehapters of the book tell Impressively
the etory of Hainan's downfall and ahe
preservation of the Atm from the de-
struction plotted by their enemy. The
ilierovery made hy Ahasuerna, that
Mordeeal heti been inetrumerital in Seto
ing him from it plot laid tO take hie life,
hretight urielpected honor to 111.0tdeeat
While Hamlin WAN tetpeiting soon tO put
end the deepood humiliation to Harnett,
While Homan wee *emitting goon to put
,itiordeteti to death, he Wes mule the un-
willing inetrionent ° higheet hnin
ore to 'Mordecai. It became hie duty to
lead the nee.• -"Sett esrriett Mordecai
_ esteete ef Shushan; and al
the time time Hama WAS coleimanded
to shout, "Thus shall it ke done unto
the man whom the king delighteth to
honor" (VAIL 0: 11.) The climax of
Hanutnes deserved punishment ettale.
when, at the command of the king, lie
was hanged, upon the gallowe welch he
bad ereeted for the express purpose of
executing Mordecai. Vengeance VW fill,
ly meted ,ottt, however., upon the nation,
when, through an edict of the king, the
Jews were permitted, to defend them-
selves and to elay their enemies.
Questions. -When was the time of this
lesson Who was Ahasuerus? Where
was Shushan? What peculiarity has
the book of Dither? Who was Esther?
efordeetti? Inman? WhentecIld .1841ther
What word did Mordecai send to Es.
tbiele;ne queen? Why did Haman bate
Merdecat What plot did liaman plan?
Whet was the queen's reply
VVIiat was the golden eceptre? What wes
Wefohladteeditild'synsetxutern(ros?sage to Esther?
PRACTICAL SUR:VEY.
Topi3ier-oiLigiufet coruisespy.
street hatred.
II, Met by heroie selasacrifiee. •
I, Brought on by cruel hatred. The
ancient antipathy of an Amalekite to
the Israel of Kod is clearly portrayed
In the life and condwat of Haman, He
was one of that nation with whom Teed
had eworn that he would have perpetual
war. Proud and malicious, he did not
limit expense to gratify revenge.. Ha-
man cherged oo crime upon the jews,
only die they must and without mercy.
The king took no time to examine docu-
ment, but cenfid-ently trusted the aike
rangement to Haman without lihnself
knowing the import of the ediet. Upon
Mordecai the first effect of the procla-
matiott was bitter anguisb, but his grief
did not upset his judgment or cause him
to lose faith; Yet grief so firmly rooted
and so web fourteen could not be re-
moved without the removal of- its
cause. Mordecai had a strong helief that
God would interfere in this ease. Yet
he believed it necessary to act with a
determined and. resolute will -anti un-
flagging energy in securing the deliver-
ance ief his people. Opportunity was the
test of clutracter, not only for Mordecai
but to Esther. the only one whom lie
could direct in his .attempt to over-
throw Haman's plot. It was the tidal
time of Itether's life, the greatest oppor
tusiity of her existence, and the ques-
tion was whether she would rise to
the occasion and make it subserviene to
her greatness or whether it would sweep
her away svith it, as weak and irreso-
lute and unequal to the emergency.
Power and opportunity measured her
obligation to hint ite reasons why she
should grant his wish. He would have
her stet under higher waived. Oen)
those and in obedience to a higher will
than his. Esther's womanly caution
brought out his courage and his faith.
Her peculiar circumstances required pe-
culiar service. In substance he May
have reasoned thee: Harken! Wilt
you separate your interests from those
of your people and, your God? If you
could„ would you thereby secure them?
Remember for your humiliation that
God can do without you. How can you
bear the disgrace' of . having suffered
your golden opportunity to be despised?
Consider: Why aae you thus blessed
in temporal things?.
IT. Met by heroic selheaciiiice. Esth-
er'e special mission was to avert the
destruction which- threatened her peo-
ple. In the heroism of a great surrender
site declared, "So •will 1 go." The king's
favorite was Esther's enemy, a wicked,
crafty, designing foe. To preserve her
people Esther must hazard her life. Per-
formance of duty inuet follow resolve.
Her season for station was brief and pre-
cious and if neglected could not be re-
called. Her heart was moved to tincere
dependence upon God. She Waa charged
to use her influence on the side of right
and justice and against oppression ane.
tyranny. 'The yearning of Esther's soul
through her fast made it appeal to
Jehovah. The sante power which sup-
ported her, at the same time moved
the king's heart to listen and accept her.
Mordecai and the Jewish people en-
gaged in prayer while Esther exposed
herself to death in their behalf. When
the time came for Esther to anproaiet
the king she fonnd tier way was clear.
This sploneid deyotioe to Ihe welfare
of her people would. never haw ben an
opportunity to be exercised had she not
meekly learned alld diligently practised
the lessons of her girlhood which Mor-
decai taught her in his pious home. God
moyed leether's heart to greet wisdom
and pruuence in her mauttgement ef her
underteking. His true piety he the ex-
ercise of its faith and hope and love to-
ward God united all her wisest calcue
ations and efforts with the goodnesa
and power of 'God.. Her bold resolution
and soletnn preparation ivere rewarded
in a successful issue and the crisis was
met. -In reverence, in submission and
for safety Esther touched the golden
sceptre, and thew all the power of the,
empire was between her and harm. Hers
faithful discharge of duty brought rich
results. Mordecnies firm faith in an
overrulign providence, God's recogni-
tioe of human instatunentality in his
government and Esther's practice of
selfemerifice form the important prin-
ciples of this remarkable. history. Eheh
individual life has its special plan which
God designs to work out. Only as the
individual meets and' accepts that plan
Can it be said that'the life is most sin-
ceseful. '1'. It. A.
•
SPINALMENINGITIS
Dr. Simon Flexner Found
Cure of Diseaoe.
Xew Venda Oot. 21,-A diseovery
whereby epidemie epinat meningitis can
be entirely controlled was announced by
Dr. Shnon Flexner, director of the
Rockefeller 'Institute for Medical
tetra, at the closing session of the
eertferente of sanitary officers of New
York State here to -day.
The control could be established,
lelexner said, by injetting ecruto into
the eerebrel spinal membrane, thus get-
ting at the seat of the disease.
"It has taken much money and A, long
time to perfect' this cure," said Dr.
Melina •Thie ie the first time I have
annenneed it, na.onlY very reeently have
I demonstrated to my own satisfaction
tbat the serum I have prepered will do
as I claim.
"Influe.nza meningitis in the child,
which has caused so many deaths and
which epreads so rapidly, will, with the
application of thi8 new form' of treat-
ment, be not one-tenth as dangerous
AA it Was before."
OHILDFIEN'S SAD 'TEETH.
Following a Mediefil examinetion, 73
per r*Ilt. of Surrey, lengledid, Whoa
ehildreit have Innm fourte pre:levet Ile-
ettyed teeth,
i4ARUIN Wat03
TORONTO MARKETS.
rAANIIIIIIS' 11114,11,KM.
•
Dressed 110ifs , 8 8 75 $ 9 25
Butter, good to deice 0 27 0 30
Eggs. citizen 0 35 40
Meekest; lb.. ,... „14 0 15
Fowl, 114 .040 p.40 .114 mO ODA4 012 . 4 13
Ducks, lb, 1.1,1 *4 .* 13 0 14
Turkeys lb.. .. 0 21 0 23
Anplea, 1 75 3 00
Potatoes, bag .. 1 00, 1 15
Beef, hindquarters .. 11 00 12 GO
do., forequarterS 50 7 50
do., choice, ceramic; 9 00 9 50
do, utedIum, carcase 7 75 8 50
12 OQ
Mutton, prinie ...-. ..... 7 50 00
Lamb ••.• •. 9 50 10 59
• SEED MARKET,
Prices paid by dealers at country'points
'are as follows;
Alaike, fancy ....9 9 60 $10 Q0
do., No 1 9 25 9 50
do. No. 2. 9 00
Rest 'Iover 'fancy.. 11 00 ,.•
do., -No. ...... , 10 50 10 75
do., No, 2. ., , 10 25 10 60
Timothy -Fancy.. „., 7 00 ,.,.
do„ No. 1 6 60 ....
do., No. 2 6 25
SUGAR MARKET,
Sugars are quoted In Toronto, In bap,
r• Jr cwt. as /0110WS:
Extra granulated 5 95
Redrmth's 5 95
do„ Acadia . . „ 0 80
imperial granulated 5 70
Beaver, granulated „, 5 70
No. 1 yeilow, st. Lasvreuce ..„ ... . 6 45
Recipath's 5 45
In barrels, 5o tper cwt. more; ear lots.
Go less.
GRAIN MARZET: •
...Toronto deepatch: The market was
much easier today. Latest quotations;
°attune wheat -No. 2 white, red or
mixed, 87 to 88e in car Iots, outside.
Manitoba wheat -elite 1 northern,
new, $1.00; No. 2 northern, $1.031/0
Npooi4s3. northern, $1.01, track or bay
Canadian western oats-No.2,48e; Xo.
3, 47e, track'or bay ports, .
Ontario oats -No. 2 white, 44 to 44yee
on etre sit country points, aed 47 to 48e
on track Toronto. -
1.1.C:owrin-intkIricen No. 2, yellow, 78e e.
Rye -No. 2, 88e, outside.
Barley -00 to 92e outside for malting.
mid 80 to 82e for feed,
littelcwheate-Nomieal, 55 to 58e
outside.
Millfeed-Mieditoba bran, $23, in bags,
Toronto; Averts, $25; Ontario bran,
nominal, at $24, in bags; shorts at $20.
Manitobe, flour -First patents, $5.50;
second pateets, $5; strong bakers, $4.80,
- OTHER MARKETS.
WINNIPEG GRAIN MARKET.
Prev.
close. Open. High. Low. Close
'Wheat -
Oct. 10114 10141, 104 101% 102%
Dee.. 90% 05% 9535 9see $52i,
Mar .. 100% 1.00% lee% 10014 Ntlie
Oat5-
_OCt. 4314 .. 40111
Dec..„ 39% 384; 3W3 38 as
May 42 41% 41% 39% 49%
CHEESE MARKETS.
Cornwall -,The offerings on the corn -
wan Cheese Board this afternoon were
837 white and 791 colored. All were sold,
with the exception of Lakeview and Bow-
man combination. which were held. The
whito sold at 13 1-2, and the colored at 13-
11-16 and 13 3-4o.
Iroquols,At the regular meeting of the
'reeve's Cheese Board held here to -day
.400 :cdlered cheese wore offered. All sold
on the board at 13 5-8c.
Picton-Nineteen factories boarded 1,155
boxes of cheese, all colored; all sold at
13 13-16c.
Victoria.ville-One thousand, boxes of
cheese sold here to -day at 13 1-10g.
BrantfOrd-On the Cheese Board here
to -day 285 -were offered; 125 sold at 14 5-80;
160 at 14 1-2c. The tmarket adJourned for
th.prasreaariseoen_,
There were 940 white and 490
colored cheese boarded here to -day; all
awrt 13:y-
50-81TE: CATTLE mAREET,
New York -Beeves - Regeipts, '2,445
mead; market slow; generally steady;
steers, 84 to 94.50; westerns, 14.50 to 10,50.
Sheep and istmes-Reeeipts, 5.545 head;
market slow and 25c lower; sheep, 83 to
33.50; lambs, .94.5e te 85.75; culls, 94.
Regs-iteceipte, 2,850 head; inerket ac-
tive, 260 higher; cull to choice, 26 to $10,
Sheep and lambs -Receipts, 18,000 hoad;
market, slow, 15o to 25e lower; choice
lambs, 85.50 to 85.65; cull to for, eese
$5; yearlinge, 43,75 to 84.ge; eheep, eve' to
83. •
°ea. -Repeat; 11,0,50; market active
ane firm; yorkers, $6,30 to 56.50; stags; $5
to $6.501 tpigs, W.86; mixed, 96.50 to $6.60;
heavy. 86.60; roughs. 85.50 to $5.85.
CI -1.10A00 LIVE num.
Chicago &sae Ca ttle-Reseeipts
estimated at 1,000: maaket [steady.
Beeves; $4.55 to $8.76; Texas steers, $4
to $5.80; western eteers, $4.10 to $7;
stockers and feeders, $e,90 to $5,75;
cows atid heiferg, $3.90 to $5.85; calves,
$5 to $8.75,
Ilogie--Reeeipts estimate dat 10,000;
market steady to strong. Light, $5.7o
to $6.40; mixed, $5.85 to $0.50rheavy,
11415to.7e5htooice$11151e5a; oSt5.$765.5t5o; $16)1;vg,oesdi
to $5.90. Bulk of sales, $6.10 to $6.40.
Sheep -Receipts petimated .at 1,000;
merket weak. Natives, $2.25 to $3.70;
western, $140 to $3.80; yeateings, $3.00
to $4.25; native, $3.50 to $0; western
$3.75 to $0.30.
leltP00 P ttODUC E.
Liverpool cable • Wheat Close
spot, nominal figures steady, December,
7s 5d; March 78 4 1-8t1; May, 7s 3 3-4(1.
Corn -Spot, steady; American mixed,
tie -5d; futures easy; januitry 58 8 1-4;
February, 58 7'7•8d.
• Flour -Winter patenta 27s
tolicizpis2-. In London Pacific coast,
13eef-Extra dndia mess, 88a ikl.
Porka-Prime mess, western, 97s Od.
54sliatknil.s..-Short eut 14. tho 10 pound;
Bacon-Cumberiane but, 26 lei 30
petunia, 55s; short ribs, 16 to 24
pounds, 60s tid; clear bellies, 14 to 14,
pounds, cos; long clear middle% light,
28 to 34 nemesis, 50s 6d; Mug cheer mid -
diet, beavy, 35 to 40 pounds, 59s; short
dear backs, 16 to 02 pounds, .50s; ghoul-
ders, square, 11 to 13 pound; 47s.
Lard -Prime, western, in tierees, 45e
64; American refined in pails, 46s.
Butter --Good United. States, 112s.
Cheese -Canadian fittest white, Ofig
Cnnedian, finest colored, 09s.
Turpentite spirits -45g 3d.
Roan, Ameritan strained..15s
Petroleum -Refined, 6 1-2d.
Linseed oil -428.
BRADSTREET'S REPORT.
Montreal trade reports to leratiatreet's
say the path week has seen very Mite
change in general conditions, Wholeeale
liees are moying briskly and busmen;
men generally sweet confident that the
balanee of the year will BO a large
W11101'01' merebandise. Large ship-
ments of holiday goods are being made
and manufacturers; and dealerg in Mimeo
lines are exceedingly betty. For staple
'Meg there le an exeelleet sesteonable
buainegg. Imitietrieg appear, without ex -
option to be actively engaged end ebb
demand fer all kind(' of bettor is brisk.
'Markets for commoditieg thow little
change. Values are firntly held and
the nutjority of tastes arty telidenen tin
wards Amigo le upward. Trede in the
surrounding diettlet is /steely in therite-
ter. reeliverie8 of etenntry ptedttee ems -
tinge very large. C'olleetiong are mi.
oitely repotted, hut in the 1114111 they ,
seem to he satisfectory.
Tornille reportg to liredittreetei Nay all
lies ot lewdness there centinuee active.
Wholesalers aro sendiug out darge ship -
meats of goods, and oreers continue to
come in freely. The demand for holiday
littes Las been particularly heavy, and es,
a result factories aro working Overtime
and in many cases are ,unable to turn
out enough goods to meet ali demands. THEO.
The sorting trade in. dry goods, ete., hes
also been brisk, indicating a good re -
The Wingham
Advance
Mil movement in all peas of the emu -
try. City trade continues excellent. (301 -
!Miens and remittances are reported
generally good.
Winnipeg reports say trade there and
In ail parte of the 'West continues active.
Jobbers aro busy with fall a.nd winter
shipments and there appears good reason
for the expectation that the season's.
business will show a largeeincrease over
that of previous years.
Vauconver and Victoria, reports say
an excellent business continues to MVO
in general lines there.
Quebec reports to Bradstreet's say:
•The rain of the past week has made
country roads pretty bed in some places,
•and the movements of travellers have
been retarded.
Hamilton reports say there es steady
and generally good. volume. Wholesalers
are busy sending out large shipments of
general lines and a particularly active
business in general hobby goods is
looked forward to, Country trade holds
up well. Deliveries of produce are fairly
large and prices hold up well. Local fac-
tories; are worieing pretty well to their
limits.
London reports say _all lines of trade
continues to move more or less briskly
there,
Ottawaereports say business there is
steady in tone and generally satiefeetory
in the matter of voltune.
THE KNABE CASE
Indianapolis Doctor's Mur-
der Remains Mystery.
Chief Detective Supercedecl
by Subordinate.
Indiann,polk, Oct. 31.--Developmente
he the murder of ler. Helen lenabe, con -
BIG NAVAL SHOW
firming to some extent the story told by
Joseph C. Carr of seeing a man near
the Delaware flat after hearing screams
from the same place, came to -day when
an actual test was made by citizens
to learn if the znurderer had time after
cutting the doctor's throat, to reach the
place where Carr says he met him. The
police had made a eimilar test.and had
reached the conclusion that it was im-
possible, but two tests made to -day by
friends of the murdered woman show
coeceusively that the murderer might
liave,made his exit from the feat and
reached the scene of meeting with Carr
as ehe latter detailed,
: Fmther confirmation came in the
shape of a story by a janitor at the
Weaver Bets, two squares north of the
Delawere, that about eight o'clock a
man asked him, for direction to the Dee
aware flats, and when given tho infor-
mation turned in. that direction. The
janitor's descriptiOn tallies in many
points with the de,scription given by
Cerr of the man he saw at 11.45 on
Tuesday morning.
' Private dtizens began to take sm ac-
tive interest in the case to
cluea be
-daty.ur daowino
.tiliegmhta.nd that the Carr
and the man whom he met brought to
Mayor Shank is inclined to criticise
Chief of Detectives Holtz •for not get-
ting better resulte from the investiga-
tion and to -day asked Detective Kinney
to take charge of the cage, thue
ually enperseding Holtz.
Short services were held over the re -
parlors thie morning and the body was
entuetiin.ys. of Dr. Knabe at the undertaking
then interred in the Crown Hill cern-
0-**
Hundred Battleships in New
York Bay,
Great Fleet Under Rear -
Admiral Osterhaus. -
New .York Octe 31. -The waters of
New Yprk Day ana the lower Iinesioa
were churned to 'foam to -day by nearly
a hundred warshipe taking possession of
them for one of the biggest naval shows
ever exhibited in Americi. By nightfall
nearly all of the great fleet assembling
under Rear -Admiral Osterhaus. will Lte
here.
The staid passenger nee freight ves-
sels, the aquae of. Jetts, y heats and the
myrittele ef smaller twat that swat% the
harbor had to keep A. sharp loekout to-
day to avoid the steel -clad fighting ma-
chines that crossed their paths. '
Daylight found the batteethips Idaho,
'Iowa, Indiana and Massechusettt. and
the cruisers -Peoria and Panther waiting
to enter the bae, Meanwhile their sister
shipe, Witiolt arrived 'earlier in tbe week,
were *tenting cautiously down the Hutt -
son to teke stations further south,
while over in the navy yard in Brook-
lyn the 'battleships 'Utah aud Florida
wore getting their last touches before
joining the fleet for their first day of
service. The Florida and Utah will Ile
tho newest and most powerfel Alps in
line.
, SIX COMET
Now in Neighborhood o
Sunl Says Professor.
Montreal, Oct. - comets,
three of whioh host quite recently
been seen with the naked eye, are
new within the neighnorliobd of the
gun, neeerding Peofeesor Mated, of
the McGill Observetory. Of the two
brightest, one has been vieible just
after ettneet, nOrth of the sunset
'point. It bas a bright head and a
teil about seven elegreee leng.
The iiecond is; said to be brighter
tban the laments Halley's millet, and
wee discoVereal last July. Early thie
week it had a tail twenty elegreea in
length, and wait visible ill the mem.
ing just before 5 n'elook, liettlieaSt Of
Venus, the morning' 'star.
Theee eorileta have also been res
ported by the Liok Oheervalory„ sof
the Iinivereity 01111010a in San
lerelleiscu.
.0******MOST
HALL
• Proprietor
• DR. AVIIEW
PHY5ICIAN,. comgoN, ACCOUCHEM
Office In,-
UpstAire In the Macdonald, Stook,
Nlgkt calla ;powered et °Moo.
OR. ROBTs kEDMOND
11.,':R:(c?.. (42:1
Physician and Surgeon.
(Dr. Ohisholm'i old stand).
NM J. IRWDT
D.D.S., L,D.S.
Doctor of Dental Surgery of the Pen.
nsylvania Oollege ard Licent ate of
Dental Surgery of Ontario.
•-Offloe in Macdonald Block -
W. iJ. PRICE
B.S.A., L.D.S., D.D.S.
Row Graduate of University of Toronto
and Licentiate of Royal College of
/Natal Burgeons of Ontario.
thrmon rg BrATIUS Raw( - Worenam
WINOHAM
General 1-lospitaL
(Under Government Inipeotion.)
Pleasantly situated. Beautifully furnished.
Open to all regularly licensed phypiolans.
Rates for patients (vrhioh include hoard and
surelog)-43.50 to g16.00 per week, aocordina
to location of room. For further Informs..
tion -Address
MISS L. MATTHEWS
Snoerintondoot,
Box VS, Winghana, Ont.
R. VANSTONE
BARRISTER AND SOLICITOR
Money to loan at lowest rates.
OrP1019 :-BEAvzn BLocE,
. WINGHAM.
DICKINSON & 110LIIES
Barristers, Solicitors, etc.
Office : Meyer Block, Winghato.
E. L. Dioldnson Dudley Bohnos
J. A. 11ORTON
BARRISTER AND SOLICITOR.
MONEY TO LOAN .
Office :-Morton Block, Wingliam
•
WELLINGTON MUTUAL
FIRE INS. CO.
En tat/Ittihad. UM,
Read Ofilne GUELPII. oNT.
Risks taken on all classes of in-
surable property on the easel or pre-
mioni note system,
JAKVB GoLune, C1.1.01. DAVIDa014
President, Secretary.
RITCHIE COSENS,
Agents. Winglutm, Got
A. E. SMITH
BANKER
WINOBAM - ONTARIO
Farnaera who want, money to buy
horses, cattle or hoge to teed for mar-
ket can have It on reaeousble terms,
Money trausmitted and payable at
par at any Bank in the Dominion.
RATES. --35.00 and under, 3 ets.
510 to 530, 10 Ota. PO to gm, 15 eta.
Same rates charged on principal
banking points in the III. S.
C. N. GRIFFIN
GENERAL AGENT
Issuer of Marriage Licenses.
Fire, Life, Accident, Plate Glum
and Weather Insurance, coupled
with a Real Estate and Money
Loaning business.
OVICR 65 YEARS'
EXPEF/lENCE
TRADE MARKO
Delmont,
COPYRKINTS A*.
At:wale sending • sketch and description mar
'quickly airtain pp. opiniOn free whether an
Invention prOblibIrPftleptabltiFOMMUtdert.
tionsstrietygotindenttal. _RANDOM) on Pattata
ViZin glioiliringigCrtsta?va
litia nate., withent'cuarso, Int o
$cletilifIC Jimericant:
!Italy IlInstrated weekly. Urges* ofp.
of my soputtne, Journal. T•tm• (or
11.75 a year, postage prepaid. tole 14,
time/Warr.
Of0119.948,1081.0awdmitliltrk
ROMPTL:Y S CURED
thirbusipt. or zzanufkccurgrs,
ten' an ethers Who tea Ilse the adrift:At.
r of navintittir patent business transacted
r Expects., -Prelltabutryetiviee free. Charges
Moderate. Oar loventatok_Adviser sent npoa
triliostItarion it Marian, se er York Lift/Ma
mut Weehlsuome.D.O„.
CONTROL ALL LINES.
waghington, Oet. 31. --The eontrol of
the entire line of raiI tominunieation he-
teeen Peking and Hankow by the imper-
ial Chinese ferias wee reported to the
Chineee legation here to -day, in (Wee -
gloms frinn Peking.
The messeges reeeived by Yttang liwei,
in charge of the Chineee legation and
forwarded by him to the state depart-
nlent, elated that the government foreee
had attaeked and captured Revere! of
the positions' hold by the rebels' 'north
ef liankOw, Mantling Le Chitio
milee nortileaet of the city. 'the sn-
setae) te 144 Wed heft» e the I mperie t
ttoope and the latter eneeeettfully worm
the railroad •entraneee liatkim. so
vithiing to the legation inegeages,
'71
•