The Goderich Signal-Star, 1979-04-26, Page 59Page 26
•
OW to grow a tree: a s 1
unp e guide
Whether they're majesti-
cally tall and. imposing, or
short, sprightly and
sassy—whether they pro-
duce sweetly -perfumed
flowers, or luscious -tasting
fruit—all trees have their
own personality, and can add
something special to the
landscape.
So, it's important to select
a tree carefully to make sure
it will create the picture you
have in mind. And, it's even
more important to make sure
you plant them correctly, or
you'll end up with no picture
at all, according to the new
Ortho hook. "The World of
Trees.
If you're careless, you'll
probably have to bury your
tree before you get the
chance to plant it! Most trees
are watered every day, while
at the nursery, and they
should receive the same con-
sideration once you. bring
them home.
When you're ready to
plant, prepare a hole at least
12 inches wider and 6 inches
deeper than the spread and
depth of your tree's root
system.
While digging, set aside the
top 6 inches of soil in one
pile, and most of the subsoil
in another; then place the last
few shovelfulS of soil into a
third pile which will later be
used for building --a- dike
around a watering basin.
The next step is to mix
"root zone" soil for your tree
by combining equal parts of
organic matter, like mois-
tened peat moss. with the top
soil you have saved. You
must also mix a -transition
soil," using. one part organic
matter to four parts of sub-
soil.
Before adding any of the
mixtures, loosen the..soil...in.
the 'bottom of the hole to
Planting a bare -root tree (from the Ortho book, "The World of Trees") Do
not prune
Planting hole should be at least 12 inches wider and 6 leader or
small twigs
inches deeper•than the spread and depth of the root system.
Subsoil
Topsoil
Keep roots
covered
Soil for dike
Existing
soil
allow for root penetration
and better drainage—then,
line the hole with 4 to 6 inches
of "transition soil."
'Next., using the "root
zone" soil, make a cone-
shaped mound directly on
top of the "transition soil,"
and set the roots of your tree
over this mound.
Now that your tree is posi-
tioned in the planting hole.
make sure that it's placed at
Transition
soil
Existing
soil
the same depth at which it
originally grew, which will be
eyident from the soil -stained
ring at the base of its trunk.
Then, work 2 or 3 shovel-
fuls of' root zone" soil under
and around the roots to elim-
inate air pockets in the plant-
ing hole.
• Before you add more soil,
you'll have to stake your'tree
• for support. Simply drive a
stake that s approximately 2
Prune here
Wire through
garden hose
(forming "figure 8")
2" x 2" stake
in direction of
prevailing wind
Add "roof zone"
soil to form
a cone
Line hole
with 4" - 6"
of "transition
zone" soil
Burlap or
tree wrap
paper
inches wide, 2 inches thick,
and about .6 to 8 feet long,
into the soil about 6 inches'
away from the trunk, on the
side of the prevailing wind.
Then, fill the rest of the hole.
Build a watering basin with
the soil you've saved by plac-
ing a dike 4 to 5 inches high in
a circle 2 to 3 feet away from
Trees"not only for beauty's
the tree trunk.
. sake, but to balance the top
.Finally, secure your tree to of theypung tree with its re -
the stake by threadm a 1-- duced root system.
Existing soil
gauge wire through a short
length of garden hose and
twisting the, wire around the
trunk of the tree and the stake
already placed. in the form of
a figure 8.
Now that your tree is se-
curely planted, it's a good
idea to prune it, according to
.Ortho's "The World of
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Pruning — trees and shrubs
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