The Goderich Signal-Star, 1977-11-10, Page 61Pige 16
Insulation -theheat saver
• from page 15
structions below.
When you start to work on a
wall that has been framed,
• push blankets into the stud
spaces so they touch the
sheathing or siding. Work
from the top down and place
the staples about 12 inches
apart, pulling down the
flanges so that they fit snugly
against the top and bottom
plates.
If you're using friction -fit
batts or blankets without an
attached vapor barrier, first
wedge them into place, then
cover the inside face of the
wall with a suitable vapor
barrier such as polyethylene,
stapled to top and bottom
plates. Unroll the sheet
across the entire wall area,
including window and door
openings. You can cut these
out later.
Be sure to fit insulation
behind pipes, ducts and
electrical boxes. Pack space
with loose insulation or cut a
piece to the proper size and fit
it into place.
After plugging the heat
leaks in ceilings and walls,
basement walls are the next
area to tackle. A good deal of
heat is lost from basement
walls, especially the part
above ground.
For block or concrete walls
that are less than 50 per cent
exposed, you should add
insulation with a resistance
value of R7 or R8 to at least 2
feet below grade. For fully
exposed basement walls,
insulate as you would an
upstairs wall — R12. In all
cases, apply a moisture -proof
coating to the wall before
insulating.
There are two ways to
insulate a basement wall:
Inside and outside.
You can insulate masonry
walls by first strapping them
with 1 x 2" furring strips; 2 x
2" strapping or a 2 x 4"
frame, depending on the
thickness of insulation
needed. These straps can be
placed on 16 or 24" outside
centres, depending on the
thickness and tyPe• of wall
finish. Remember that foam
insulation should be covered
with plaster or gypsum
board.
When you've completed the
strapping or framing, refer
back to the earlier in-
structions for insulating.,
framed walls. You can use R7
batts with 2 x 2" strapping by
compressing them slightly;
however this reduces their
insulating value to about R6:
It has been shown that
basements can be insulated
effectively and easily by
applying foam slabs about 2
inches thick to the outside of
masonry walls. Above ground
the foam should be securely
stuck to the wall, protected at
'the top from water seepage
and coated with paint or
another covering to protect it
from the elements. Below
ground it's quite adequate to
use a horizontal slab, at a
slight angle to drain away
water. This slab can be
covered with patio stones,
grass or a garden. -It acts as
an effective heat barrier for
the lower wall. In fact, this
type of exterior insulation cart,,..
be just as effective as interior
applications.
Basements are aturally
cold and damp most of
their wall area 1._ clow the
ground level. However, much
can be done to add warmth to
a basement recreation room.
Outside walls should be
insulated and storm windows
added. A sub -floor overlaid
with tile or carpeting will help
to overcome the chilly floor
problem. Any door into a cold
room or cellar should be fully
insulated. Don't forget to
damp-proof the walls before
you begin.
You may find that even
with adequate insulation,
your recreation room is still
on the chilly side. Perhaps
your heating system lacks the
capacity to put heat into the
room seem colder. To help
the furnace do a better job, be
sure that a cold -air return
leads from the basement
room back to the furnace.
This will allow the cold air to
leave the floor area and be
replaced by warmer air.
Floors over unheated crawl
spaces, garages and
projections should have at
least R12 insulation. In most
existing homes, insulation, of
open floors is easily ac-
complished with batts in-
stalled from below. Be sure to
secure the batts with wire
mesh or cross -braces. And
remember to put the vapor
barrier up to the warm side.
The roof of the garage may
be a floor for a second -floor
room that is already covered
in. To up -grade insulation
here, use batts or blankets.
These can be held snugly to
the garage ceiling with either
a light lathe support or
chicken wire.
The windows and doors in
your home can be responsible
for 25 per cent of your heat
Toss, even more if they're
poorly fitted.
A single pane of glass has
an R value of about 1. So it
loses about 12 times as much
heat as the same area of
properly insulated wall.
Adding double glazing or
storm windows will double
the resistance and cut -heat
loss in half — but it's still six
times the equivalent wall
area.
Uninsulated doors are
another big source of heat
loss — especially if your kids
leave them open.
Let's suppose the outside"
tempeitature is a chilly 20
deg. F (-7 deg. C) and that it's
cloudy so that your windows
are not letting in radiant heat
from the sun. If you keep your
thermostat set at 70 deg. F (21
deg. C) and you have an
average 200 square feet of
single -pane windows, you lose
room. Cold air lying static at over 11,000 BTU per hour, just
floor level will chill the feet through the glass. You could
and make your basement half this loss by fitting double
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When you're replacing
windows, install double
glazing — either two separate
panes or the bonded type. If
you live in an extremely cold
area think about triple
glazing; especially on win-
dows facing north.
If you have single -pane
windows, adding storms will
cut your heat loss in half.
In older homes the storm -
window frames are usually
made of wood. If you have
this type, put them on in fall
before you start using your
heating unit. Remove them in
spring. If you have air con-
ditioning throughout the
house, leave the storm
windows on year
air space betweeq
icm
panes of glass
insulation and Pg.
house at the tecaeritt
want. Be sure
space, other ►
wise it
For window
used for the vitha1
install plastic sh'
Cached to the outside
frames.
All outside
contain 10501. i nOOr
hollow
moderateslypaces,
have outside poked
light wood f arse:,
with plywood ar
material. A lightdootl,
give much pro ewn210p
the cold. When t;
perature isbelow2p,
f om the door, feellhe
Turn to Page 17s
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