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The Goderich Signal-Star, 1987-11-18, Page 36PAGE 2B - WEDNESDAY, WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 18, 1987 Sunspaces Homeowners across Canada are adding pleasant, versatile areas to their indoor liv- ing space by attaching sunspaces that enable them to enjoy the benefits of summer weather the year round. Three special purpose sunspaces are in common use today: the solar collection space, the greenhouse, and the more popular sunroom. Solar collection space Used principally as a source of heat dur- ing cold weather, solar collection spaces are designed to gather energy from the sun dur- ing the day and transfer it to the parent building by fans and ducts. Dedicated solar collection spaces have no auxiliary heating and are insulated from the parent building! During the winter, temperatures can vary widely between day and night. Temperatures varied from -28°C to 60°C in one solar collection space in Ontario. As a result, this sunspace would be com- fortable for limited times each day and plants could not survive the freezing winter nights. Despite its cold evening temperatures, however, a solar collection space can con- tribute to reduced energy bills by acting as a buffer between the parent building and the outside world. Greenhouses are designed to provide op- �or�zatefiiergy� keep summer at home timum conditions for growing plants over an extended season. Auxiliary heating is re- quired to maintain temperatures when in- sufficient solar energy is available, for ex- ample, on overcast days. As well, humidity and condensation must be carefully controlled to avoid moisture problems. Greenhouses are not dedicated solar col- lection spaces and often consume more aux- iliary energy than they collect from the sun. As a result, they can be a net energy liability. However, the benefits of having a dedicated area for growing plants and vegetables can outweigh the energy costs. Sunrooms: living space Sunrooms are designed to be lived in the year round, especially during the winter. On sunny days, this design can provide some heat to the parent building but at night or on heavily overcast days auxiliary heating is required to maintain comfortable temperatures. Like all attached sunspaces, sunrooms should be oriented within 30 degrees of south for optimum performance. They should have an opaque roof with an overhang to reduce overheating in the summer and heat loss in the winter. Skylights can be added to allow light into the back nf the sunroom. These sunspaces typically have a large south wall of vertical, double -glazed glass and opaque, well insulated east and west walls. As well, sunroom floors and wall surfaces should be made of heavy energy -absorbing materials such as tile, brick or masonry. Mixing of sunspaces Today, many homeowners are building additions that encompass different aspects of the three sunspace options. When considering such a project, take care not to compromise the purpose and ef- ficiency of the design. Generally, these `mixed' sunspaces should not be viewed primarily as a source of heat, but as expand- ed living areas in which to enjoy the sun or to grow plants. Suppliers offer everything from custom- designed sunrooms to do-it-yourself kits. Homeowners can also build on of these addi- tions using common building materials. However, no matter what building techni- que is used, a few basic concepts should be kept in mind. Before beginning construction, check with local authorities for building regulations and permits. You should also plan carefully before beginning work. Sunspaces need a south - facing location free from shade during the winter when the sun is low on the horizon. Wires and trees mean trouble. Cutting down or pruning trees near overhead wires is dangerous. If you are touching a tree or branch that falls into wires, you could be seriously injured or killed. Be extremely careful Before pruning or felling trees that are near hydro wires, cell your local hydro for advice or assistance,. Public Utilities Commission of the Town of Goderich 64 West St., Goderich 524-7371 Clinton Public Utilities Commission 482-9601 482-3447 AFTER HOURS, WEEKENDS OA HOLIDAYS Be safe when you insulate Do-it-yourselfers can easily install insula- tion in accessible attics and in basement walls. Although it is possible to blow insulation into empty wall cavities, these areas are more difficult to insulate and should usually be handled by professionals. No matter what area you decide to in- sulate; be sure to seal air leaks first. Caulk- ing, weatherstripping and a suitable air - vapour barrier on the warm side of .the in- sulated surface are essential parts of any in- sulation job. The attic Safety should be foremost in the minds of do-it-yourselfers installing insulation. The first thing to do is ensure that the area is safe to work in. Ceilings are not usually designed to sup- port a person's weight so boards should be laid across the top of joists or trusses to form a walkway. Determine where all wiring is located and be aware of it while working. If any wiring appears unsafe, call an electrician. Also watch out for protruding nails, wear suitable footwear and handle all tools carefully. Glass fibre, cellulose fibre, mineral wool and vermiculite insulation produce dust that may irritate your eyes, skin and respiratory system. Wear a dust mask, goggles, gloves and comfortable work clothes with long sleeves and tightfitting cuffs. Vacuum work clothes thoroughly when finished for the day and wash them separately from other garments. Ensure that noncombustible insulation or sealing materials are used near heat sources, such as chimneys or stove pipes. Take special care when insulating around recessed lighting fixtures; these can overheat if completely covered. (A special enclosure should be constructed around the fixture.) You should also adhere to all minimum clearance requirements, which are available through your local utility or fire marshal. Outside basement walls Since insulating outside basement walls can involve a lot of digging, you might want to hire a back -hoe to do the bulk of the work. Inform utilities and other companies (telephone and cablevision) that might have underground cables near your home. Take care not to damage underground natural gas, water or sewage pipes. Make sure the insulation material is suitable for use below grade. Rigid board in- sulations often have special handling or in- stallation requirements; check the manufacturer's literature for details. Flashing should be installed at the top of the insulation to prevent water from runn- ing behind it. The above -ground portion of the insulation should also be protected by a water- and fire-resistant covering. When you have com- pleted the work, slope the ground so that water will run away from the house. Inside basement walls If you are planning to finish your base- ment, it usually makes sense to insulate from the inside. However, you should never attempt to insulate a basement wall from the inside if it has a history of moisture problems. (Evidence of moisture includes mould stains or a white or yellow powder called efflorescence.) Similarly, interior insulation is not recom- mended if drainage around the outside of the wall is poor. Thoroughly seal the walls before you begin the insulation work. Be sure to caulk along the sill plate, electrical outlets, ser- vice entrances, pipes and ducts. Do not insulate directly around heat - producing obstructions such as flue pipes (you can insulate around water pipes). Clearances ranging from 150 mm to 450 mm are required, depending on the'type of fuel used and the manufacturer's specifications. Turn off the power before working around electrical outlets. If possible, avoid working around the Main electrical panel since it is impossible to stop the flow of electricity to this compartment.