The Goderich Signal-Star, 1986-04-23, Page 45tM
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Prdper
pruning
is good
for trees
Proper pruning can be the best thing for
your trees and shrubs; improper pruning t
can be the worst thing for them.
"Pruning is both an art and a science,"
says Horticulturist Ruth Friendship of the t
Ontario Ministry of Agriculture and Food's
rural organizations and services branch.
The "artist" in you will, prune to retain or
restore the natural form off the plant.
The "scientist" in you will prune to
remove dead and/or diseased branches,
stimulate flower and fruit development,
control the plant's overall size, and to im-
prove the plant's structural strength, health
and vigor.
There is no ideal time to'prune all plants.
"The correct time to prune depends on the
flowering season of the species, its growth
habit and your specific reason for pruning,"
she says.
Generally, late winter or early spring is
the best time to prune deciduous trees, some
vines, roses and certain shrubs; at these
times of the year the plants have no leaves
and that makes it easier to decide where to
prune.
At these times, there is also less danger of
damaging the bark.
Fruit -bearing trees should be pruned just
after they have leafed out.
On the other hand, spring flowering trees
and shrubs such as forsythia should be prun-
ed after flowering. (This is because these
plants produce their flower buds on the
growth of the previous season).
By pruning at this time, you won't destroy
prospective blooms and it allows the plant
sufficient time and space to grow and pro-
duce flower buds for next year.
Shrubs that flower on the current year's
wood, such as hydrangea, should be pruned
before they flower. ..
Late fall to early winter is the poorest
time to prune because the wounds may not
close during the winter months.
Winter pruning is also uncomfortable for
you — so you are less likely to take the time
to prune with care.
Trees that "bleed" profusely such as
maple, birch, walnut, and yellow -woods
should only be pruned when they are in full
leaf because the leaves will be using the sap
— thereby reducing the "bleeding" and pro-
moting rapid healing.
• Pruning while the trees are in leaf also
makes it easier to see which branches are
dead or lacking vigor.
But avoid pruning in late summer
because this could stimulate growth which
won't be able to "harden off" before the cold
winter temperatures strike.
As, with any gardening task, it is -impor-
tant to use suitable tools and equipment.
Special equipment and expertise are
needed to prune large trees so you might be
wise to hire a professional. for these large
jobs:
But small trees can easily be pruned.
A sharp, properly set saw is required for
the larger cuts and will do a better job for
any size of cut than even the best pruning
shears.
A pruning saw should be used wherever
possible.
.
Hand pruners should be light, ;sharp, pro-
perly set and of good quality.
Long -handled pruners can speed a prun-
ng job but they tend to leaye stubs so use.
hese selectively.
"The choice of tool is a matter of personal
preference, but remember to keep your
ools sharp and properly adjusted to make
clean, flush cuts," she says.
Pruning paint, which was once a common
recommendation, has been found to be of no
benefit to the process of wound closure.
Therefore it is not necessary to use prun-
ing paint — except for cosmetic reasons. If
you do decide' to paint the wound, use a thin
coat of some commercial material prepared
for this purpose.
Do not use house paints.
Apply the 'wound paint only to the wound;
painting the bark all around the trunk can •
kill the tree.
All pruning cuts must be made so natural
processes will heal the cut surfaces com-
pletely and not contribute to the death of the
bud immediately below the cut.
" There is a siigitl,iy-raised nage of .bark
on a branch called the branch collar which
is the tissue separating the branch from the
main stem. This can be used as your guide
to proper pruning," she says.
Place your saw or shears in front of the
ridge and cut downward and slightly
outward.
This results in removal of the branch
without injury to the main stem.
By leaving the "collar", there is less
chance of infection.
"Flush cutting" or cutting through the
branch collar makes a larger wound than
neccessaryand slows down wound closure.
This type of cut often results when chain
saws are used for pruning.
Prune deciduous trees to have a more or
less "open" centre.
Branches that grow inwards and those
that are in. contact — rubbing and wearing
each other — should be removed.
This allows the tree to grow to the outside
and upwards, where it will be exposed to the
maximum amount of light.
Remove watersprouts and suckers to en-
courage the growth outward and upwards.
Always consider the manner of growth
and climatic conditions for best pruning
results.
Because few evergreens produce new
buds on wood more than two years old,
prune evergreens mainly on new wood or on
the previous year's wood, early in the grow-
ing season up to midsummer.
Allow enough time for the new growth to
"harden' off" before winter sets in.
Spruce, pine and fir should be pruned
shortly after the new growth has begun in
the spring. And rests ict your pruning to the _
new growth only.
Prune junipers by cutting back the branch
to a healthy lateral branch.
Pyramidal or central trunk evergreen
trees should be pruned only to remove dead
or overlapping branches.
Trees with double leader branches should
be pruned to one terminal leader, while the
tree is young.
Do not prune the terminal leader of an
evergreen tree"unless the leader has been
damaged.
(If it must be removed, it should be
replaced by a lateral trained to grow
upwards) .