Clinton News-Record, 1984-10-24, Page 38Conserve Energy—Page 5
Insulate
basement
The basement is one of the areas of
highest heat loss in a house. It is also one of
the most neglected. Lack of basement in-
sulation can be the root cause of cold ground
floor surfaces, yet this is often overlooked.
There are two ways to insulate a base-
ment — on the inside or on the outside. In
most cases, insulating from the outside br-
ings better results, but interior applications
are often more practical and economical.
Basement walls can be insulated from the
interior with either batt -type or rigid plastic
(polystyrene) insulation. When batt -type
material is used some form of wood framing
is required for support. Rigid plastic
(polystyrene) insulation can be installed
directly on the foundation with glue or
special masonry fasteners. Furring strips
attached mechanically to the foundation
should also be used in conjunction with the
insulation to hold the air -vapour barrier in
place. The air -vapour barrier is optional
with rigid plastic (polystyrene) insulation.
But panelling over the insulation becomes
essential as a measure against fire.
Polystyrene burns rapidly if ignited and
releases deadly gases.
Basements with moisture problems
should not be insulated from the interior.
Excavate around the perimeter of the foun-
dation to improve drainage. If the excava-
tion is extensive it will .be more convenient
and cost effective to insulate the basement
.from outside.
High-density polystyrene or specialized
semi-rigid mineral fibre insulation are
recommended for exterior foundation walls.
Ideally, insulation should extend down the
foundation wall footings. If this is not feasi-
ble, a minimum depth of 60 cm (2 feet)
below ground level is acceptable. In either
case, the insulation is held by concrete
fasteners; the above -ground portion is
covered with a protective finish. Some ad-
vantages of exterior foundation insulation
include keeping the wall at a constant,
relatively ; warm temperature, which
reduces the danger of frostheaving and
freezing. And the mass of the wall provides
a degree of heat storage in the basement.
Exterior application also improves
basements that already have interior
finishing.
-- --- ori
nirmi
Choosing the right insulation for your
home energy conservation project can be
difficult. In the' past, when . there were
relatively few types of insulation on the
market, people often purchased insulation
by thickness. The assumption was that the
thicker it was, the better it would work.
Today there are more insulation products
available and each one performs different-
ly. Using the thickness rule can ereate pro-
blems because one type of • insulation .
material may not provide the same effec-
tiveness as the same. thickness of another
type.
To make comparisons between different
products possible, all insulation must carry
a thermal resistance rating. This is the
number prefixed by the letters RSI or R.
Some insulation materials are marked with
both. The RSI value of an insulation product
is the precise metric measurement of its
resistance to heat flow. R is the imperial
measurement equivalent. Be careful not to
Weather stripping and caulking guide
If you hire a contractor for draftproofing
services or do it yourself, you need to know
something about the materials available to
do the job right.
Weatherstripping is applied to any joint
where the two surfaces meet but must be.
free to move: Windows and doors are the
most obvious examples: Caulking is applied
where movement is not required.
In both cases, the rule of thumb is that you
get what you pay for. What separates the
cheapest products from the best is durabili-
ty. To be truly durable a draftproofing pro-
duct must stand up through years of ex-.
posure to wide variations in temperature,
constant expansion and contraction and ex-
tremes of humidity and dryness.
A good product will do the job better when
in place, but the advantage doesn't end
there. Think of the time and money invest-
ed in the installation process. Not having to
repeat this job every year, because of pro-
duct failure, is the biggest bonus of all.
Although home draftproofing products
are often marketed by brand name, product
information should appear on packaging
material. Take the time to compare pro-
ducts in the store, and ask for advice and
assistance from store personnel or building
and insulation contractors who use these
products regularly.
Caulking
Oil or Resin Base — will bond to most sur-
faces and can be painted. It is not durable,
and it shrinks and hardens. It is found in
most stores and is quite inexpensive.
Latex Base — will bond to most surfaces, is
reasonably durable, can be painted, shrinks
somewhat. ,Usually moderately expensive.
Not the best.
Butyl Rubber — will bond to most surfaces,
is of indium cost, reasonably durable, can
be painted, but it shrinks. This is often the
choice for use on masonry (or joining two
different materials) but not on moving
joints. •
Polyvinyl Acetate — will bond to. most sur-
faces, is of medium cost, reasonably
durable, but it shrinks and hardens. This
sealant is surpassed by other compounds.
Nitrile Rubber bonds well to metal and
masonry but not to painted materials. It is
durable, can be painted,but it shrinks. Its
primary use is in high moisture areas.
Neoprene Rubber — will bond to most sur-
faces, is, expensive, durable, can be painted,
shrinks moderately. This is.especially good
for use on concrete walls and foundations.
Silicone Seal — will bond to most surfaces
except concrete. It is very expensive, very
durable, not all types can be painted, and•all
undergo a little shrinkage but remain very
flexible.
Polysulfide = needs primer to bond to sur-
faces, is expensive, very durable, does not
shrink. It is difficult to work with and is tox-
ic until cured.
Polyurethane — will bond to most surfaces,
is expensive, very durable, can be painted,
shrinks only slightly. Not readily available.
Hypalon = requires priming for porous
materials, is expensive, very durable, can
be painted, shrinks only slightly. Not readily
available.
Acoustical Sealant — is a special sealant
(applied in a similar manner to caulkirig
compounds) that remains flexible and
sticky at all times. It can be used to prevent
any possibility of air leakage at the laps in a
polyethylene vapour barrier. It is unsuitable
for use in areas where it will remain expos-
ed.
Caulking compound also comes in rope
form, which can be unwound and forced into
cracks. If there are particularly large
cracks (greater than 6 mm ('/a in)) use a
special filler such as oakum.
Single -component' polymeric foam in-
sulating sealant, a relatively new product
• sold in aerosol cans, is excellent for sealing
large,, rough openings and is very durable.
When caulking around heat -emitting
devices such as recessed light fixtures,
prefabricated and masonry chimneys or
combustion vents, use a heat -resistant
caulking compound such as stove cement or
muffler cement.
confuse them. The higher the RSI (R)
rating, the greater the insulating value of
the material per unit of thickness.
It is useful to know how the RSI (R)
system functions in order to better
understand its importance. The two most
common types of insulatiop used in attics
are glass fibre batts and loose cellulose
fibre. Both types of insulation .work well if
properly installed, but they have different
RSI (R) values. If installed to the same
thickness, . cellulose fibre will provide a
slightly higher insulation value. Cellulose
insulation 200 min thick will provide. an RSI
of 5 (R 28), glass fibre batts of the same
thickness will provide RSI 4.4 (R 25). Ver-
miculite, another material suitable for use
in attics, provides less insulation value: RSI
3.2 (.R 18) for 200 mm thickness.
When comparing the RSI (R) values of
different insulation materials remember
that a , higher RSI (R) rating does not
necessarily make a particular product a
better buy. Other factors to consider are
where the material will be installed, the
quality of installation and price. •
Heats In
Winter...Cools
In Summer...Helps
SaveEnergy
AllYear!,
111111111.11111
The Trane Elite Plus
heat pump system...
our most energy-
efficient ever.
The Trane Elite Plus
...for superefficient
year around comfort
control. Now you can
heat...and cool...'
while controlling run-
away energy costs.
The Elite Plus system
delivers up to 33 COP.
1
The big "plus" is
the Trane Elite heat
pump combined with
the Trane Plus air
handler.
Trane's all -aluminum
Spine FinTM coils
perform better, longer
than copper -aluminum
combination coils.
Weathertron® heat
pump...North America's
No.1 selling brand!
Find out how you can
be more comfortable...
and control energy
costs. Call your local
Trane dealer.
WISEENERGY
CENTRE
-Harold Wise Limited-
BAYFIELD RD. CLINTON 482.7062
MANE'
50 million
people take comfort in it