Clinton News-Record, 1977-11-10, Page 31Page 16
Insulation - the heat saver
• from page 15
structions below.
When you start to work on a
wall that has been' framed,
push blankets into the stud
spaces so they touch the
sheathing or siding. Work
from the -top down and place
the staples about 12 inches
apart, pulling down the
flanges so that they fit snugly
against the top and bottom
plates.
If you're using friction -fit
batts or blankets without an
attached vapor barrier, first
wedge them into place, then
cover the inside face of the
wall with a suitable vapor
barrier such as polyethylene,
stapled to top and bottom
plates. Unroll the sheet
across the entire wall area,
including window and door
openings. You can cut these
out later.
Be sure to fit insulation
behind pipes, ducts and
electrical boxes. Pack space
with loose insulation or cut a
piece to the proper size and fit
it into place.
After plugging the heat
leaks in ceilings and walls,
basement walls are the next
area to tackle. A good deal of
heat is lost from basement
walls, especially. the part
above ground.
For block or concrete walls
thickness and type of wall
finish. Remember that foam
insulation should be covered
with plaster or gypsum
board.
When you've completed the
strapping or framing, refer
back to the earlier in-
structions , for insulating;
framed walls. You can use R7
batts with 2 x 2" strapping by
compressing them slightly;
however this reduces their
insulating value to about R6.
It has been shown that
basements can be insulated
effectively and easily by
applying foam slabs about 2
inches thick to the outside of
masonry walls. Above ground
the foam should be securely
stuck to the wall, protected at
the top from water seepage
and coated with paint or
another covering to protect it
from the elements. Below
ground it's quite adequate to
use a horizontal slab, at a
slight angle to drain away -
••••••
room seem colder. To help panes or storms, and save 1
the furnace do a better job, be gallon of heating oil or 128
sure that a cold -air return cubic feet of natural gas each
leads from the basement day — that represents a
room back to the furnace. dollar saving to you of from 15
This will allow the cold air to to 35 cents every day!
leave the floor area and be When you're replacing
replaced by warmer air. windows, install double
Floors over unheated crawl glazing — either two separate
''spaces, garages and. panes or the bonded type. If
projections should have at you live in an extremely cold
least R12 insulation. In most area think about triple
existing homes, insulation of glazing, especially on win -
open floors is easily ac- dows facing north.
complished with batts in- If you have single -pane
stalled from below. Be sure to windows, adding storms will
secure the batts with wire cut your heat loss in half.
mesh or cross -braces. And
remember to put the vapor
barrier up to the warm side.
The roof of the garage may
be a floor for a second -floor
room that is already :covered
in. To up -grade insulation
here, use batts or blankets.
These can be held snugly to
the garage ceiling with either
a light lathe support or
chicken wire.
water. This slab can be The windows and doors -in
covered with patio stones, your home can be responsible
grass or a garden. It acts as for 25 per cent of your heat
an effective heat barrier for
the lower wall. In fact, this
type of exterior insulation can
be just as effective as interior
applications.
Basements an. aturally
cold'and damp most of
loss, even more if they're
poorly fitted. °
A single pane of glass has
an R value of about 1. So it
loses about 12 times as much
heat as the same area of
properly insulated wall.
that are less than 50 per cent their wall area , :low the Adding double glazing or
exposed, you should add ground level. However, much storm windows will double
insulation with a resistance can be done to add warmth to the resistance and cut heat
value of R7 or R8 to at least 2 a basement recreation room. loss in half — but it's still six
feet below grade. For fully Outside walls should be times the equivalent wall
exposed basement walls, insulated and storm windows area:
insulate as you would an added. A sub -floor overlaid Uninsulated doors are
upstairs wall R12. In all with tile or carpeting will help another big source of heat
,cases, apply a moisture -proof to overcome the chilly floor loss — especially if your kids
coating to the wall before problem. Any door into a cold leave them open.
insulating. room or'cellar 'should be fully Let's suppose the outside
There are two ways to insulated, Don't forget to temperature is a chilly 20 '
insulate a basement wall: damp-proof the walls before deg. F (-7 deg. C) and that it's
Inside and outside. you begin. cloudy so that your .windows
You can insulate masonry You may find that even are not letting in radiant heat
walls by first strapping them with adequate insulation, from the sun. If you keep your
with 1 x 2" furring strips, 2 x your recreation room is still thermostat set at 70 deg. F (21
2" strapping or a 2 x 4" on the chilly side. Perhaps deg. C) and you have an
frame, depending on the your heating system lacks the average 200 square feet of
thickness of insulation capacity to put heat into the single -pane windows, you lose
needed. These straps can be room. Cold air lying static at over 11,000 BTU per hour, just
placed on 16 or 24" outside floor level will chill, the feet through the glass. You could
centres, , depending on the and make your basement half this loss by fitting double
In older homes the storm -
window frames are usually
made of wood. If you have
this type, put them on in fall
before you start using your
heating unit. Remove them in
spring. If you have air con-
ditioning throughout the
house, leave the storm
windows on year-round. The
air space between the two
panes of glass provides the
insulation and keeps the
house at the temperature you
want. Be sure there is a
space, otherwise it will be the
For windows that are not
used for the view, you can
install plastic sheeting at-
tached to the outside window
frames.
All outside doorshould
contain insulation rather than
hollow spaces. Many
moderately priced homes I
have outside doors made of a
light wood frame covered
with plywood or a similar
material. A light door doesn't
give much protection against
the cold. When the tem-
perature is below 20 deg. F (-7
deg. C), and the sun is away
from the door, feel the inside
Turn to page 17 •
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Insulation - the heat saver......
• from page 16
same as one thick pane of structions that come with the
glass. door. Find a second pair of
hands to help you. Once the
door is in position, make the
final adjustments to level it
and ensure that the flexible
strip across the bottom
(usually made of- rubber)
makes a good seal. Now you
can laugh at cold winds
blowing your way.
Both you and your furnace
need some fresh air coming
into the house — also to clear
gasoline making two trips to out odors and moisture. This
the store when one would do! is called Infiltration and most
The best storm doors also Canadian' homes have too
have a screen so your house much. In fact, up to 25 per
won't be invaded by summer cent of your heat loss can be
insects when you want fresh due to excess infiltration
air. Talk over your needs with around windows, doors and
the service manager or other cracks. These drafts not
salesman at the store. He can only cost you money but can
help you choose the right type make your home unpleasant
,i1nd size. You might also pick through winter.
up some tips on installation. How far should you go in
Before you start the actual sealing up the house? Con -
installation, read the in- tinue to seal, weatherstrip
of the door with your hand. If
it's much cooler than the
wails near the door, consider
putting on a storm door.
A storm door can easily be
mounted by the average
homeowner, but be sure to
take the measurements of the
door frame before you head
out to buy the door. They
come in different sizes and
you don't want to waste
Ergie leads y
"Ergie", The Energy Erg,
a caricature who will suggest
ways energy and money can
be saved, will be introduced
by the Ontario Ministry of
Energy during Energy
Conservation Week, October
31 to November 6.
An erg is a technical term
for a unit of energy, but in this
instance has been per-
sonalized to bring a light-
hearted reminder to people in
Ontario of the need to con-
serve energy.
The Erg will appear on
conservation posters, ban-
ners and buttons and on a
special place mat that is
being distributed to
restaurant chains. He will
also make screen ap-
pearances during Energy
Conservation Week on TV
public service spots with
messages such as "Save the
Erg - Please Conserve", or
"Let's Cool It" as he turns
down a thermostat.
"We are hoping the Erg will
become a cheerful symbol for
energy conservation
programs in Ontario", said
Energy Minister Dennis R.
Timbrell.
and caulk until you find that
in quite cold weather, a light
but not excessive fog or mist
develops occasionally on
windows on the downwind
side. At this point y iu've
achieved a considerable
saving, without making the
house too airtight. Most
homes have a long way to go
to reach this point.
When you're sitting around
the house, does a member of
the family occasionally
complain of feeling a cold
draft? This can be difficult to
locate by feeling along the
bottom of a window or around
a door, but. here's a simple
item you can make to ac-
curately pinpoint the source
of the draft.
It's called a draft gauge
and all you need is a metal
clothes hanger, a plastic
sandwich bag (or a piece of
light tissue paper), a pair of
scissors and two clothes pins.
Cut the sandwich bag down
each side and wrap one end
over the cross -bar of the
clothes pins to fasten the bag
to the bar.
To check for drafts around
a window, hold ' the gauge
steady by' the handle of the
hanger with the plastic bag
close to the edge of the frame.
If any breeze is coming in, the
movement of the plastic will
show you where to caulk the
window frame. Use the gauge
on all suspected areas. You'll
be surprised to discover how
many spots need caulking or
weatherstripping.
The outside doors of the
house should fit snugly so that
air can t. sneak in around the
•
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edges. If they don't fit snugly
put weatherstripping around
the door frames.
Close and lock the door so
the door and casing are tight
together, If you're using a
rigid sgripping, measure and
cut the 3 or 4 pieces you need,
mitering them to fit well at
the top corners. If your
weatherstripping is flexible,
you may want to put it in
pieces for convenience or use
one continuous piece for the
sides and top.
Tack or screw the side and
top pieces to the door stops
Page 17
with the contact edges
pressed evenly, but not too
tightly, against the face of the
door.
The bottom stripping,
depending on the type, is
attached to either the bottom
inside edge of the door or to
the doorstep. Make sure it's a
snug fit before you tack or
screw it in place.
Leaky windows should be
weatherstripped around the
frames, using appropriate
stripping. If the windows
don't have to be opened they
can be locked and caulked
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South of CLINTON
482-3752 or if busy 482-9796