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Exeter Advocate, 1906-5-10, Page 2NOTES AND COMMENTS The new columns of the press, of the Whole civilized world are replete with tonvineing ervidence of the fact that the greatest lesson of the San Francisco catastrophe has been instinctively felt and acted upon. •That lesson is. the sondes*, the brotherhood of man, The dire calaniities of nature are calculated to give man an'actite sense of his insig- nificance and helplessness in the pre- sence of eleniental force. Seientisls es - biotite the loss of life from earthquakes and attendant disturbances during the last nineteen eenturie.s at about 2,000- 000 persons, while the loss of wealth is beyond computation. But who can esti- nate the amount of moral ana social bencflt which the pity and sympathy and generosity excited by the visitations have permanently yielded to mankind? We cannot control nature; we can but adapt ourselves to her laws and condi- tions. 13ut we ean do infinitely more than we have yet done to banish Un- necessary suffering from society, to equelize opportunities and to base our institutions on the principle of human equality and fraternity. Seers and ethical teachers of all ages have dwelt upon the ennobling effect of sorrow, the wholesomeness of the discipline that lies in trial and suffering. If private bereavement can do much to make one more thoughtful, gentler, kinder, worthier of the humanity in us, how much niore impressive and lasting should be the humanizing influence of a calamity that cruelly affects several hundmo thousand men, women and children. The spontaneous relief con- tributions ana offers that are pouring in from every quarter will give courage and strength to the stricken San Fran- ciscaria, but they may prove, at bottom. even more blessed to those that make them than to those that receive them, The modernizer of Mexico is Porfirio Diaz. salad a quarter of a century ago was a loosely linked federation he has transformed into one of The strongest and most highly centralized govern- ments in the world. The great power that has been placed in the hands of this remarkable ruler he has wisely used in a paternal spirit for the good of all classes of Mexican citizens. Rail- ways and telegraphs penetrating every part of the republic; rapid transit, popu- lar education, and a strict vigilance exercised over the states have trans- figured Mexico. The elimination of the professional politician and the dema- gogue, and the enlistment of every mart of energy and intelligence have assisted in the modernization. Lawyers of emi- nence, bankers, educators, engineers have been* sought out and utilized. The lightning flashes of the human body, the electric currents that flow through the nervous system are being measured by Herr Einthoven of Ger- many. He has invented an extremely sensitive galvanometer, whereby he has measured the electricity of the human body. The instrument, which can mea- sure the millionth part of an ampere, consists of a silvered quartz. fiber stretched between the poles of a strong electro -magnet. When the faintest cur- rent passes through this fiber it moves in the direction of the lines of the mag- netic field, and the movement can be detected and directly measured by a microscope, or it can be recorded through photography. The new instru- ment may be used to study the current of electricity that flows through the human nerves. The action of the heart has already been measured by Lipp- mann's electro -capillary instrument. It is well known that the muscular con- tractions in the beating of the heart produce variations in the electric resis- tance of this organ; this was determined by Weller in 1808. Einthoven claims now to have detected electrie waves which correspond to the beating of the heart, and proved that the electric phe- nomena vary with every beat. The waves are similar in form to those of the cardiograph, invented by file late Prof. Marcy, and were detected by the use or ,photography. Perbaps after a -airline Herr Einthoven will be photo- graphing the winnings of a fretful baby. QUEER OLD CUSTO:SS. Halmagen, in Roumania possesses a unique public festival. It s a little town of about .1,e00 inhabitants, and en the morning of its annual fair day the population from about 80 villages conies trooping in swerms. Then there to out to meet them all the ,young wo- men, married or single, of flatulence, each bearing a small flower-gerlanded vessel of wine, and an attended by their godmothers, As the visitors approach the young women offer to each a taste of wine and a kiss. This strango cue - torn is supposed fo have Re origin in .010 eseepe cenhiries ago of some Hat- magen women, niter being; carried telf ay Turks. As they mitred thole own homes their joy eaueed them to em- brace eyory neighbor at sight. SOCIETY GO'! INTO HIM. "r heer you're getting into society," taid the friend of the successful man. "No" replied I he poor zoom, brushing 'esicie a pile of hit wife's WM, "Sock ekty is geilina Into me," UNIVERSAL iii(oTifER1100D.i1SPElltlilegtt is sympo.LIthed wit A. Deeper... Sentiment Is Needed • to .Regenerate Keep thy heart•with all diligence, for out of it, fare the issues of life, ---Prov. iv. 23. The soul hungers for companionship and cannot live witheth it. When any- one is inclined to tvithdraw from the society of ids fellow men, when he shuns his family, :Mends and the world, we feel that he is becoming abnormal. There lurks a feeling in tbe human. breast that attaches us to a pet animal, a favorite flower or landscape, that Makes us prefer' one being to another; that tills us with pity for the suffering and the weak, with admiration for the hero, with love for home, our neighbor- hood, our city, our country. Sentiment miles the greater part of our lives, It conditions our thoughts and actions, makes the difference between one per- son and another, creates interest and entehusiasm for one person and one cause in preference to another. What is this mysterious element of the soul? Is it • magnetism, personality, charm, amiability? Is it, perhaps, 'divinity, seeking expression through man? Sentiment, truly, is everything. It paints the best pictures, writes the best books and plays. It gives that "touch of human nature that makes all the world kin." THE BUSY THRONG, hurrying on in the mad rush of ambi- tion, stops for a moment to comfort a crying babe that has lost its Wily or to ant some ,poor blind man tottering help- lessly. Napoleon stopped in his march to battle to turn over a turtle that was struggling on its back on the. roadside. Men touched NVilh the fire of emotion ' have wrought wondrous deeds. The master minds of the world have been born of great love orintense hate. Moses, the shepherd, becomes a re- deemer of men at sight of tee burning bush that was not consumed—at the thought of the great wrong done to Israel by the Pharaohs of Egypt. We seem, however, to have lost, some- thieg in tlie course of our modern pro- gress. we have mutinied the maw at The expense of the heart. Mental cul- ture has repressed the emotions so long that the heart has become atrophied. Business is reduced to a cold science of supply and demand. Polities is a scramble for office and spoils. Society is a series of formal entrances and exits. Groups are formed to be broken up, friendships • cemented to. be dis- solved, marriages contracted to be severed, FIRE ONLY CAN WELD STEEL. So only the fire of love can weld hearts. Only the flame of human eentiment can drive out the various activities (it mo- dern life and selfish coldness that chills every endeavor. • But sentiment cannot be taught. It is spread not through precept, but through the contagion of example. The water sheds of a country are on the hills or mountain tops. There the waters di- vide and flow thence down to the val- leys below. The homes are the first sources of right living. Influences that there are generated pervade the various members. Tbe great men and -women of a coun- try are its moral water sheds. If the great leaders of the nation will cherish the senliment that makes for h love of the true, the beautiful and the good; if they will listen to • the feeling that prompts man to love his fellow men, to do justice and humbly bow before God, then that sentiment will distill through the various layers of .society, will trans- form politics and business with the wand of love, into centres of activity for the conunon welfare, and so regen- erate society as to bring nearer the day of universal brotherhood. " HOME. keil#**3W*':**'***0,1 SOME DAINTY RECIPES. Chicken Patties.—Have read/ six or more patty -cases of puff pastry. Put half a pint of white sauce in a sauce- pan, add to it six ounces of chopped chicken, two ounces of chopped ham, and three or four chopped. mushrooms. Stir these over the Ike till they are hot 'through. Well beat the yolks of two eggs, add to them two tablespoonfuls ofcream or milk, then a.dd these to Me mixture. Stir it over the fire for a min- ute or ttvo to cook the egg, but, on no account let it boil, or the egg will cur- dle. Season the mixture nicely. Fill in the patty -cases carefully—they should first be heated through in the oven— put on the little tops, arrange the pat- ties on a lace paper, and garnish with nice sprigs of watercress. Baked Eggs.—Butter a French fire- proof china baking dish, liberally and pour a layer of tomato puree (or catsup) into it; then break one new -laid egg at a time into a small cup, and carefully slip it into the dish until the required number have been put in. Season the eggs with salt, pepper, awl nutmeg. Hominy WaMes.—Acld one pint cf cooked hominy to a batter made of two cupfuls flour, one teaspoonful baking powder, one and one-fourth cupfuls milk, one tablespoonful melted butter, one-half teaspoonful salt, three eggs beaten separately. Run through a coarse sieve and bake in hot, greased waffle iron. To roast almonds.—No better way to roast almonds for salting has been dis- covered than putting them in a corn - popper over a hot fire. Omelet with Green Peas.—Beat six eggs lightly, the whites and yolks sepa- rately; then mix lightly together and elir in ee cupful of cold couirecl green peas. Season with salt and pepper, and turn into a buttered omelet pan. Fold when set and seree 'with a garnish of crisped lettuce. Salt rising bread is n.ol, difficult to make. Put into a two -quart pitcher a pint of hot water, and stir in a scant half -tablespoonful of salt. Let it cool, than add. three-quarters of a pint of flour. Mix well, and set the pitcher in an outer vessel of water of the same temperature as that used in mixing. Let it stand where the temperature of the water in the outer vessel will not, change until the batter has risen to twice its original bulk. Tbis tvill be in from five to eight hours, and during that time the batter must be stirred once or twice. At the end of the time add a sponge made of two and one-half quarts of flour and one quart of hot water. 'If a little more flour is necessary to make a soft dough IL may be added. Mix well and leave in a warm place to rise. When light, forrn into two loaves, keep- ing the dough as son as it can be handled. Lay the loaves in buttered tins,large enough to permit them to swell, and after they have risen once, priek with a fork and bake, Vienna Rolls.—The real Vienna roll with the fine crusty finish, whichcan be bought in an large cities, is linpos- sible to make in the home kitchen. While the recipe foe propertions, etc, can be given, me peculiarly line, crisp crustiness is attained by the use of superheated steam dining baking. At a certain step of baking This steam is inieelell into theepteS1 frren a tube con - sleeted the boilers keg at it high pressure; the resifit is a glaze and Ilnieh Ileit no ordinary oven can imitate. Also bakers who make these rolls a spreally havo on hand al, least fi dozen different kinds of choice flours of var- ious kinds of mullings, mid from two in 111010 va Hellas are 11seri, according to the special formula of the bakery. The best Imitation we 'women can imam - pasts in our kitchens is as follows To one pint or luketvarna water add' one tablespoonful of salt, one scant tea- spoonful of sugar (to replace the natural sweetness of the wheat) and one yeast cake dissolved in a few spoonfuls of ttie water. Add sifted bread flour to make zi thick batter; beat hard, cover and set aside in a warm place until very light and spongy. Now add more flour to make a dough, which is neither very soft nor very stiff; take out on the board and knead until elastic, and vel- vety to the touch, using no more flour than is absolutely necessary to keep the dough from adhering to the board. Re- turn to the bowl, cover, and keep warm until the dough has doubled in size. lf not exposed to chill or drafts this 'will not take more than two or three hours, as the .amount of yeast used is consi- derable. Mold into rolls, using fine while cornmeal on the board instead of flour. Place several inches apart on pans sprinkled with the meal instead of greasing (however, if you find the dangle persistently adherent, the pans may be very slightly greased; in bakeries the rolls are laid on the brick floor of the oven). Brush the tops with water, cover and let rise. Slash each roll three times with a 1mile having a keen, thin blade; brush again with water and bake in a quick oven. HOUSEHOLD HINTS. Coffee and tea stains, if rubbed with butter and afterwards washed in hot soapsuds, will come out, leaving the table linen quite white and fresh. To Renovate Leather.—Take two parts of linseed oil and one part of vinegar, shake well together. Pour a very little on a clean flannel, rub well into the leather, and polish with soft dusters till every vestige of oil is removed. This gives it an appearance as good as new. A Home -Made Barometer.—A simple barometer that crin be made for oneself, and which, though old, may be new to some, is made as follows: Two drams °fie camphor, half -dram of pure salt - pelt e, half -dram of muriate of ammonia, and 2oz. oft proof spirits, in a glass tube or narrow phial, will make a very good weather guide. In dry weather the solu- tion will remain clear. ein The approach of change minute stars will rise up in the liquid, while stormy weather will be indicated by the very disturbed condi- tion of the chemical combination. When Cleaning Saucepans. -11 you use cleaning powders for saucepans; be sure to wash out the pan afterwards with cold water. The best way of clean- ing saucepans is to use plenty of hot water and a rough cloth. For greasy saucepans use dry kitchen salt. Bad odors.—To remove bad odors from a room, burn a piece of dried orange. peel on a hot shovel or old tin. The odor will disappear, leaving a plea- sant one ill its place. Burned coffee is House Plants.—Orna- . al Tsoo ecflieocaliiiveD.osty mentel foliage in our rooms should be kept fresh and glossy by the daily wip- ing with a detain sponge of each leaf. This helps the growth as wen, for it stencls to reason that grime and dust accumulating on the surface of the leaves and stalks stops the delicate pores of the plants. If house plants and ferns are put in a tub of water and given a bath thus for about two hours once' ir. two week's, they are greatly benefited. It is an even more necessary process then the, watering every other day. ,When Packing Clothes. --In packing a (stink use heaps of paper with 'tailor- made garments, and pack them as much like a man's suit as possible. And of materials, remember serge and most voiles pack magnificently, aipaoa al- ways creases, ,faced cloth tyrants care, ceslarnere acme eromple, but soon sake e' out. Velvet, of cOuree, must never 1)0 creased at .011; crepe de Chine travels very Well on the whete; silks Vary, and anyhow should be treated with dieleforreiltleen'influe»ces.—. Home Is for the a/m.1ring girl alld bay either the happiest or the unhappiest place in the workl, the spot where all their hopes and am- bitions. for the future, are poured out, into confiding care, svhere advice is asked wEb a contain knowledge that the is rejoiced over with 0. heartiness and pride that could never he exheeded, Or else, alas! the borne is but an %MAY name, and then, whose is the fault? A household economic authority says: "In caring for linoleum do not use soap- suds as for scrubbing a floor, R stands to reason that soup is going to infirm the varnish and the finish, On a farm where there is plenty of milk, a cloth tvrung out of skim milk is The best means of taking up the dust, and brightening the linoleum, Where milk is scarce, or needed for food, use lukewarm water, to which has been added half a cupful of kerosene oil or some good furniture polish. Wring the cloth rather dry from this, and go over the linoleum after sweeping, and it will be quite new and bright, and the finish uninjured. • . . Most housewives scrub oilcloth and linoleum as -though it were a bare floor; it is dusty rather than dirty, since everything remains on the top, and for this reason a clean cloth slightly damp is all that is necessary.". THE SUNDAY SC110011 •INTERNATIONAL LESSON, MAY 13. LESSON WORD STUDIES. Note.—The text of the Revised Version is used as a basis for thee Word Studies. Stilling the Tempest. The group of parables spoken by Jesus on that mem- orable day at the seaside near Caper- naum is reported in part only by each of the synoptic evangelists. Matthew reports seven of the group, omitting' the parable of the growth of the seed recorded only in Mark. Mark ecords, in addition to the one just mentioned, the parable of the sower and the parable of the mustard seed, both of which, in addition to the parable of the leaven, are,, recorded also in Luke. Mark, in verse 33 of the fourth chapter, at the conclusion of his record of this day's -teaching by the seaside, adds "And with many such parables spoke he the word unto them." We are left in doubt, how- ever, as to. whether Mark refers in. these words simply to. those parables recorded in Matthew but not recorded by him- self, or whether we are to assume that Jesus at that time spoke still other par- ables not recorded by any evangelist. When at last the busy day was .ended Jesus suggested to his disciples that they cross over to the other side of the lake. This they did without even wailing to the city or to pease for rest and refresh- ment.. In their -passage over ,they en- counter a, great storm, so great that the sinking of their little craft seemed im- minent. But, worn outby his day's labor, Jesus slept aealmly in the midst of the storm, until finally he anxious disciples awakened him and pleaded with•him to rescue them from the peril in which they stood. A single word of calm command to wind and sea and all was still. Mark records the gentle re- buke of Jesus to his disciples for their fearfulness and closes his account of the wonderful event with the words "And they feared exceedingly, and said one to another, Who then is this,. that even the wind and the sea obey him?" At this point in Mark's narrative our preeent lesson begins: Verse 1. To the other side --To the eastern shore of the lake about opposite Capernaum. Gerasenes—Ancient manuscripts differ in the spelling of the proper name here used, though the preferred readieg in this narrative of Mark, and also in that of Luke, seems to be the oneadopted by the Revised Version. Most of the ancient manuscripts of Matthew's gos- pel, however, read Gadarenes, as do also some manuscripts of Mark and• Luke. (Comp. Authorized Version and Revised Version of Matt. 8, 28; Mark 5. 1; and Luke 8. 26). Gersa, or Kersa, from which comes the proper noun: Gerasenes, was a city on the east side and almost half way down from. the northern extremity of the sea of Galilee, a little more than a mile from the shore. The shore at this point is very narrow, a steep Slope lead- ing almost abruptly from the high table- land to the water's edge. A small heap of ruins .at the foot of the slope bears the same name as the ruins of the city on the table -land above. Gadara, on the other hand, was a city six miles south- east of the sea of Galilee, and south of the Yarmule, or Hierornax gorge, in ancient times a city of great importance and one of the principal cities of the. Decapolis (Comp. Ver. 20.) Since Ga - dare was doubtless much better known thanaGersa. It is quite possible that the name Gadarenes was later substituted Lor the very. similar though less familiar name Gerasenes, the change first being made by some copyist outside of Pelee - tine who knew of (Mara but not of Gersa. When we remember how Oen the manuscripts of our gospels were copied and recopied during the many centuries preceding the Invention of printing the wonder is that more copy- ists' errors of this kind than actually do °Cour are not found in the vapors. ' 2. Straightway—A common ward in Mark's retold sketch. of events. Tombs—Caves in the limestone cliffs, abounding especially in the vicinity of CereeM Aan—Maithew mentions two but Wee also only one. Probably There were 'Iwo, of whom one was tbe fiercer and acted es spokermen.. With an unclean spirit—For a note on demoniac posession, comeffire Word Studies for February 18. 6. Worshiped him—Simplyapaid hbn reverence. The Greekaword is not limi- ted In its application to reverence paid to the Divine Being, 7. Whal, have 1 to do with thee—It is the demon that is epeeking. Note the staring 'contrast, brought out by the use Of the proneuns.I and thee. Theta Son of the Most High God—The demon is repraemited as. recognizing 1118e, divrionrityhoof sColist. iicri—The word, was. not, yol spoken, and a better rendering pos- sibly Would be "Ile, was abein, to say." Perhape the eXpreSsion oa the face of Jesus and his whole manner indicated to the demon what he was likely to say next, 9. 'What is thy naine—Addresseel to. the unfortunate man to bring him to composure. Legion—Explained in the next clause "For we are many." 10. Out of the country—In Luke's narrative we read "into the abyss." 13. Gave them leave—We note that Jesus did not command the demons to enter the swine. Matthew is more ex- plicit in quoting tile word of Jesus, which he records as hewing been elm, ply "Depart," We note also that there is here no anticipation of the impending catastrophe. • About, two thousand—The estimate of the frightened swineberds. 14, In the city --In Germ about a mile to the northeast. Its 'the country—To. the farmers in the vicinity. 15. Come—Tonses in Greek express rather the manner than the time of action, while in English the time of action receives the greater emphasis in the verb form; hence the difficulty in translating those tense forms consis- tently throughout. In his right mind—In possession once more of his mental powers, which so long had been under the control of demcins, They were afraid—As afraid apparent- ly of the sane man as previously of the madman, or probably afraid rather of the power that had overcome the tor- menting demons. 16. They that saw It—Eye witnesses of the miracle. How it befell him . . and concerning the swine—They simply related both incidents as they occurred, leaving the hearers to infer the reason of the catas- trophe. The exit and ingress of the de- mons was of course invisible. 18. Besought him that he might be with him—Possibly both fear and devo- tion entered into the motive which prompted him to make the request. 20. In Decapolls—A group of ten cities east and south of the sea of Gal- ilee. MAN'S WEAKER HALF. One Side ot His Body Always Stronger Than the Other.. The popular belief is that the left sid'e is weaker than the right, and, as in all popular beliefs, there i$ anuch truthein this. In most cases. says the Grand Magazine, the right arm is decidedly stronger than the left, the bones are larger and the muscles more vigorous. When we come to consider the lower limbs, however, we find a precisely op- posite state of affairs; the left leg is stronger than the right in the great ma- jority of cases. This want of synunetry is noticeable all -through the body. Nine times out of ten we see better with one eye than with the other, and hear bet- ter with the left than the right ear, or vice versa. Not only so, an injury to the body— a burn or a cut, for instance—causes more pain on one side than it would were it inflicted on the other. Even dis- eases attack one side on their first onset in preference to the other. Eczema, varicose veins, sciatica, and even tub- erculosis begin, invariably, to .-mani- fest themselves on our, weaker side. A blistering plaster, too, will provoke an eruption only if applied to the right vide of certain individuals; in others, cnly if applied to the left side. "The simplest way, apparently, ef discovering which is our weaker side is to observe which side we lie upon 1 y preference when in bed, as it is cer- tain that we will instinctively adopt the altitude which is most agreeable, or, ra- ther, which causes the least inconveni- ence; itt other words, we will lie upon the side the muscles of which, being more vigorous, are less sensible to the pressure upon them of the weight of the body. Statistics and observation go to prove that itt about three cases out of four it is the left side which is the weaker, thus giving reason to The popular dic- tum. Curiously enough, however, pneu- monia, it has been noticed, unlike most diseases, usually attacks at first the right—that. is to' say, the stronger side of the body. • THE APOSTLES' TEACHING. • An Irish Farmer Is Causing a Stir in Somerset. Exciting scenes have marked the ap- pearance of an itinerant preacher in South Brewharn, a straggling village in Somerset, near Britton, England, whose work has caused resent.ment •among some' of the rougher spirits of the vil- lage.' The climax was reached when, es some of his converts were leaving the meeting place, they were pelted with eggs, stones, and other missiles. Sev- eral ladies were hurt, and one man was rendered uncooscions. The preacher was also injured, and had to con- veyed home. The preacher, Gillby name, has 're - kited some interesting details regarding himself. .1 -le was at one time a prosper- ous farmer in County Meath, Ireland, but coming under the influence of a Scottish preacher, edecided to distribute all his worldly possessions among the poor and devote himself to religious' work. He is now entirely without money, and at South Brewham is living in a cottage which has been placed at his disposal free of charge. He makes no collections at his meetings, and relies for sustenance on the voluntary gifts of 'those who have come under his in- fluence. His meetings are being held at the village Mn, where the landlord has given him a welcome. , Mr. Gill stales that be is riot attached to, any denomination, and ban no ex- treftie views, bellevitig that the country Should get back to the primitive teach- ing or, the first apostles. The preaeher has been iisked to prosecute his assail, ants, but he reftiees to do so. A QUESTION OF DIET. "Charley, dear," said young Mrs. Ter- kins, "I wonder why our henS don't "Perhaps we don't feed them prop, erly." "1 hadn't thought, of that. 1,11 go thiS afternoon and buy them Serail egg h, Fashion Notes. FORERUNNERS OF SUMIVaiR. The lingerie feature is the keynote 01 Ibis season's waist, as, indeed, It is, of every detail of the season's fashions. Not that the waist must come under The term lingerie, Wetly speaking. It may simply be fashioned in imitation of thee soft, fluffy handmade washable waists that rightfully deserve the nallte. We find the dainty summer waist of 1e06 Overfed, tailored, jumpered or golfed. The strictly lingerie waist is disco's,- ereC1 to be the one article of wearing eparel suitable for wear with ann cainbinalion, any material and any - v. here. You rnay fashion it of mull, lace, lin- en; batiste, Swiss—no matter which as long as the outline Is Soft and drooping; the surface encrusted with a, wealth of embroidery, hand -run tucks and lace in- sertion, the seams whipped and bend rolled, and the sleeves of elbow length and fluffy—these are the 1906 require- ments, of the lingerie blouse. Valenciennes lace, of the German va- riety; and the French =chilies, in widths varying from a half inch 10 even two -Inch widths are circled around delicate clusters of hand wrought flower 'embroideries, forming medallioned mo - soft, sheer lawn or Mull bodies. For Lite For the woman not particularly deft with the needle, there are shown exqui- site machine made embroderies, so cleverly imitative of, the French or Jap - arms° hand work that none but an ex- pert would note 'The difference, and these are being made up 'into blouses quite as effective and far less expensive than the strictly hand made. These erebroidereies arc shown in combination of English eyelet and solid work patterns so arranged that they may be easily separated for work- ing into medallion shapee. They are used more than any other form of trim- ming and will be seen upon many a delicate hand made waist framed with beiiitesuopfilaten,atshe lace ruffled or in Rich - A model that well indicates latest tendencies has a pointed lace yoke formed of four rows of inch wide Va- lenciennes lace insertion separated through its centre by a single vertical band of the insertion reaching from col - ler to waistband; below the yoke this insertion is supplemented on each icre by parallelled clusters of tucks and flut- ings of lace joined to the waist founda- tion of allover embroidered mull by a narrow curved application of white lace braid. It will be 'noted that the yoke is the simplest portion of this waist, the greater part of the •trimming appearing on the body portion and sleeves. • This fact is. illustrated even mare strongly upon the bloused portion . of another waist made entirely of heavy allover embroidery introducing Irish medallions, attached to the, round yoke of allover Valenciennes lace by rows et . tiny vertical tucks. Another method of using embroidery insertions is to outline the curved mo- tifs with aiightly fulled ruffles of nar- row lace, allowing the fullness. to de- ct ease- as the strips approach either the necks or waist bands. The soft, hod - font effect. of puffed sleeves is effect- ively increased by such ruffle applica- tions. A new method of employing embroid- ery patterns consists in .outlining them with while or colored floe braid,s, which mark the pattern with telling effect, especially if associated with other trimmings of baby Irish or Cluny lace. All lace waists continue in favor and are shown in intricate combinations ot net, Lierrs, Cluny and point Verne(' lace medallions and insertions. One with a foundation of white net showed this body material in Spots only. The cellar formed the nucleus for a ser- ifs of radiating point Venise and Lierre lace medallions, these joined together with insertions of Cluny and baby Irish Ince. The sleeves, reaching to ille el- bow, had pretty tops puffed and sup- ported by inner lawn caps run with rods of feetherbone. The wide barals alcove the bend of the elbow were form- ed of nine rows of ruffled Valenciennes lace with a double lace edged flounce of net to deflne the sleeve edge. These dressy waists are considered quite the correct accompainment for jaunty little deeni-tailored street suits now being Worn, and are especially ap- propriate with the, short -coated suits of white, pale blue or hairline striped English mohair and lightweight suit- ings. As almost all of these suits are made with short sieves, the waist will have sleeves of corresponding length, although later, when the coat is dis- carded, and one ''of the long sleeved blouses showin g handsome lace inaert- ed cuffs will be found quite correct; in- deed the shape are showing little par- t:play between tlse long ence the short sleeves, which is news the too slender armed women will hail with joy. These waists. fluffy and frivolous, le- mand harmonimis girdles and access- ories. Handsomely embossed or embroi- dered ribbons, shirred or buckled, ere exceedingly smart and effective for this .aurpose. In one very swell shop, a girdle of pink satin ribbon had its long cash ons curved and appliqued with five rowe of narrow rualled ribbon. Doubtless the girl that .seleets that dainty ansh girdle fte the value (1 knotting her elbow frills with rib- bons to match, as is the custom among Southern women. But these ribbon girdles and frilly waists don't do foe the tailor-made !irl. While in the' minority' this year, 'tie. is still a factor and hes conceded quite a few of her primpets in that she aecepts her summer with lingerie innoe. vet-Terneg leolf waist, mode of pon.gee,. or linen, has a bit of embroidery upon its plaited C,lbsonesqUe front, and No square Dutch neck accompanying, min - Le any collar, has Its edges button- holed with cream colored eilk in very fel chin g simplicity, The waist, described he.s its sieeVeS cut short at the elbow, inane a eom- pinion waist, made of White Shantung, carries zi long sleeve, reaching quite to the Wrist and finished With a,. little turnover cuff, buttened with 'red silk ‘bultons. A round homed down collar N 'pee held at the throat by a splashina red '411k tie, while a row of ..red silk ored butte:ins like those used on it eutfs O fagened tha tailored front band. re. • Tirrie flies-411(wattflying machine is only a trielter lay, , William?'/ 41he teacher; \ sucCesaft4