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The Citizen, 1998-03-04, Page 5A Final Thought In prosperity our friends know us. In adversity, we know our friends. — John Churion Collins THE CITIZEN, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 4, 1998. PAGE 5. A town with no name I don't know how Senor El Nino has wormed his way into your life this winter, but for me and my neighbours he has brought rain. Rain, rain, rain and just when we thought the heavens couldn't possibly harbour another drop of moisture ... a little more rain. About two weeks ago I decided to run for it. I wasn't asking for much. I just wanted to go somewhere I didn't have to dodge puddles, wear a raincoat or carry an umbrella. So I caught a plane to Scottsdale, Arizona, which, at first glance, seemed to be a huge mistake, because I don't golf. Scottsdale, as near as I can reckon, consists of 833 golf courses surrounded by some really poor farmland. Not golfing in Scottsdale is like not shopping in the West Edmonton Mall or moving to Regina to cure your agoraphobia. You want to know how many tourists visited Scottsdale, Arizona last year? Six point four million. It helps if you visualize that as 1.6 million foursomes and a dangerously high concentration of plaid pants. So Scottsdale wasn't for me and it didn't take me long to figure that out. Still, the sun was shining, the weather was shirt-sleeve warm and when I muttered the word 'umbrella' the natives looked at me like I was speaking Ukrainian, so I knew heaven couldn't be too far away. I rented a Ford Capri, pointed the hood ornament away from downtown Scottsdale and headed for the desert. Two hours later, I found myself in a rustic old mining town, 2,000 feet up the side of a mountain. The town is made up of rickety, Dickensian-looking buildings and houses, some of them on stilts. They line both sides A domino effect One of the first questions I was asked after I got home came from a friend of mine who was curious what was going on in southeast Asia and whether it would have any effect on his investments, the latter being mainly in the form of stocks and bonds. He had, he said, heard a number of explanations; he would like to hear what I had to say on the matter. My biggest problem in answering such a question is how to condense it into something that will fit into the normal length of an article but here goes. The trouble started last year in Thailand and soon spread to neighbouring countries such as Indonesia, Malaysia and the Philippines with Hong Kong and Japan also coming in for some buffeting. Only China, Taiwan and Singapore seem, at least so far, to have escaped the financial carnage. What was the "trouble?" It appears to have been building up for quite a period of time, during which the banks and other financial institutions handed out loans with the knowledge that the government of the country in question would guarantee the loans. When a banker has that sort of backing, he gets a bit sloppy in finding worthwhile projects. If a loan turned out to be performing, i.e. the borrower paid principal and interest according to an established schedule, the bank would enjoy the profit. If the loan turned out to be non-performing, that is, the borrower paid neither the of a switchback road that snakes-and-ladders up the side of a steep slope. Down below, the arid floor of Arizona spreads out like a Navaho blanket. The only sound you hear in the streets is a dog yapping and the wind. It's like a ghost town. Hard to believe that almost a century ago, this town was the fifth largest city in the whole state of Arizona, with churches, schools, mansions, — even an opera house. Copper was the reason and a Canuck was the catalyst. James S. "Rawhide Jimmy" Douglas cut his teeth on copper mining in northern Ontario and made it to the Arizona mountains in time to cash in on what became known as "the billion dollar copper camp". It was a rich town. A very rich town. In 1929, a year when the rest of the world was staring bankruptcy in the face, $29 million worth of ore came out of just one mine here. In 1929, more than 15,000 people called this place home. Today, it's fighting not to become a ghost town. What happened? Two things, both of them tough for any town to overcome. First, the bottom fell out of the copper market. And secondly, the town ran out of copper. A headline in a Phoenix newspaper of Jan. 30, 1953 said it all: END COMES TO FAMED MINING CAMP — LAST ORE DRAGGED FROM HOLES — One of Arizona's great mining camps will die as a mining town in about two months ..." The newspaper story was accurate. The town did die ... as a mining town. But something, some lizard/cactus toughness in its heart refused to let it die completely. The population shrank steadily. Within 10 years more than 10,000 people had left. By the end of World War Two there wasn't a thousand citizens who called it home. By 1953 fewer than 100 people lived there full time. But the town refused to roll over and die outright. Or to even change very much. principal nor the interest, the government would guarantee the loan and take the loss. Believe me, I learned all about the concept of non-performing loans while I was in the Czech Republic. Czech banks had piles of them and thus the banking system in that country is currently in a mess. Needless to say, so are the systems in the southeast Asian countries that I mentioned above. To make niatters worse, the borrower would value his property which was being used as collateral according to what revenue it would produce under the most ideal of conditions. Well, such conditions seldom exist and thus far more money was lent out than should have been under realistic conditions. Thus, sooner or later, one or more banks found they had so many of these non- performing loans that they could not, in effect, continue to do business unless, of course, the government came through with their guarantees. A few of these bail-outs got the government to thinking that they might not have enough cash to prop up all the banks that were in bad shape. To make matters worse, the low interest rates that prevail in many countries, including Canada, meant that southeastern Asian banks could borrow large sums of dollars, etc. on international capital markets. These dollar loans had gone a long way toward keeping the exchange rate of the countries at a high level and when western banks started to be reluctant to lend any more money, that was, to a considerable degree, the straw that broke the camel's back. It still had the hulks of its once-stately mansions. It still had those wildly canted streets and almost gothic wooden buildings perched like swallows nests on the mountain wall. And it still had the remains of the once thriving copper mines complete with steam shovels, ingots, ore-wagons, rock drills, muckers and slag heaps. Kind of a ... living museum, if you like. Which is pretty much what the town has become. You can take walking tours or driving tours. You can also shop in a dozen or so tourist shops that offer higher-than- average quality Arizona arts and crafts. Which is what sets this town apart from other places like Scottsdale and Phoenix and even Sedona. It's not really on the way to anyplace, so the tourists haven't really discovered it yet. The town is pretty much unspoiled. Walking down its crooked streets at dusk you get a pretty good idea of what life must have been like in the Arizona mountains before the Tilley-hatted, Nikon-necklaced hordes arrived. The scenery is unlittered by Calvin Klein billboards or large golden arches. And as far as I can tell the spectacular sunset I watched from a coffee shop in the centre of town that evening wasn't sponsored by anybody. Warm in the daytime, chilly at night, sunshine all day long, it was a nice break for a winter-weary Canuck. I don't know that I'll ever get back to that town again, but I'd like to. And I'd like it even better if I found it just the way I left it. No tour buses. No Holiday Inns. No Taco Bells. Of course, it's not going to stay unspoiled if idiots like me keep writing about it and singing its praises. Fortunately, I forgot to mention its name. Currencies such as the Thai baht, the Malaysian ringgit and the Indonesian rupiah all started to take a nose-dive on currency markets, to a degree far, far worse than what has been happening to the Canadian dollar early in 1998. The countries in question -had to, among other things, rein in their spending and to the degree that this spending was for western products and services, this will mean a drop in the growth rates in western economies. At the present time, this reduction is expected to be in the vicinity of 1/4 - 1/2 per cent so there is a certain domino effect. This effect extends to the stock market, that most neurotic of operations. At the time of writing the stock markets in Canada, the U.S. and elsewhere are extremely volatile and what it looks like is that the returns which you got last year on your RRSPs, or at least many of them, will not be matched this year. As for a stock market crash, this appears hardly likely but it will depend on how vigorously the various countries set about correcting the flaws in their economic system. The data is not yet in sufficient quantity for me to make a definitive statement but the above one will do for the time being. Needless to say, a lot of people are still holding their breath. The Short of it By Bonnie GroPP Put it all in perspective During a recent conversation, the reality that people seldom see their own failings as clearly as others see them was mentioned. I remarked that what I felt was one of my greatest weaknesses was that as my own worst critic, I am well aware of my flaws, but too undisciplined to do anything about them. If I could muster the discipline, the blemish I would most like to erase is broodiness. I dwell on trivialities, letting inconsequentials trouble me much more than they warrant. And as a self-professed control freak, leaning a degree toward obsessive- compulsion, I am faced almost daily with matters to be broody about. Issues that should be barely a whimper in my day, scream for attention, drowning out the common sense whispers about priorities. And examples of the bigger picture are always there to remind me of my foolishness. This past weekend my family and I went out of town to see friends. During the course of our weekend, conversation turned to this man's brother and his wife. A wealthy couple with three successful, picture-perfect children and grandchildren, they were often envied by family and friends for having it all. That changed a few years ago when the husband was diagnosed with amyotrophic lateral sclerosis, more commonly known as Lou Gehrig's disease. Attacking the nerves and muscles of its victims, it is terminal. And nasty. As a child I watched a loved one succumb to this illness and I remember it as being not just demeaning as its victims lose their ability to do anything independently, but terrifying as well. Sufferers usually die of suffocation or choking. My friend says his brother's strength came from his loving spouse. Unfortunately, however, late last year she was diagnosed with cancer. She is being treated for what they believe is the secondary one; they have yet to locate the primary. Do they brood over the fact that when they need each other most, they are unable to provide much support? It would be natural, yet it is strength and calm rationale which their family says has been present since this trial began. People accepting huge challenges with grace never cease to amaze. Take the story of Cindy Duehring of North Dakota, who after being exposed to a heavy dose of pesticides 12 years ago developed multiple chemical sensitivity. So extreme is her case that she is a prisoner in her own hermetically-sealed home. Her only visitors are her husband on weekends and her parents twice a year. So susceptible is she to outside influences that now even the sound of her own voice will send her into convulsions, so she neither speaks nor laughs. Nor broods. Easy as it may have been to do so, she did not give up on living. Instead she founded Environmental Access Reseach Network, and has won international recongition as a champion of people suffering from chemical poisoning. It all kind of made me wonder that perhaps when I find myself brooding, marvelling at such exceptional bravery would get things into perspective. Arthur Black International Scene By Raymond Canon