The Rural Voice, 1993-04, Page 61Gardening
Spring is hectic time for gardeners
by Rhea Hamilton -Seeger
Yes I will spend the livelong day
With Nature in this month of May;
And sit beneath the trees, and share
My bread with birds whose homes
are there;
William Davies
Sounds idyllic, but what gardener
pauses more than five minutes in
the early spring to take more than a
deep breath of that earthy smell
before diving back into the work at
hand. This is a good time to clean
up after the winter rest and prepare
to move those crowded perennials
to make room for some new
varieties.
Many gardening books are quite
informative about digging, planting,
and pruning but not too much is said
about actually moving established
plants. It could mean that gardeners
who are reading basic gardening
information books do not have a
problem with overgrown perennials.
Perennials are usually lifted in
clumps with as much soil as
possible just as growth begins in the
spring or after flowering. However,
you must use the right technique
when lifting plants or you will
damage the roots. If the plants are
bulky and heavy you can damage
yourself.
Part of gardening is taking care
of yourself as well as your plants.
Gardening is meant to be a pleasure,
but the pain of a slipped disc is all
too common. Don't try lifting
heavy objects at the start of the
season when your muscles are out
of condition and the weather is cold.
Remember to bend your knees and
not your back. Let your leg muscles
do the work, not your shoulder
muscles. Know your limitations,
use a wheel barrow or assistance
from a friend when the object is too
heavy. Do not overload a
wheelbarrow, it can easily up over
when you turn a corner. If it starts
to tip over, let it go and stand back
quickly. It is easier to reload than
nurse a torn ligament. I have a
nasty habit of not bending my knees
enough when weeding and have the
sorest back leg muscles for several
days afterward.
The first step in the spring is to
prune back the dead growth and
determine the size of the plant from
the first signs of growth. Dig
deeply around the edge, keeping
back from the plant a few inches to
avoid cutting any major roots. For
much bigger plants, like shrubs, you
should dig a trench around the plant
cutting the outer roots several
months before moving.
Once moved, water the plant
with a starter solution or a weak
solution of manure tea. If later in
the summer, try and shade the plant
from the sun until well established.
Joan Martin of Perennial Pleas-
ures, Lucknow, grows perennials
from seed in her basement and sells
them from her driveway. Her
vegetable garden is now a glorious
perennial garden and features rows
and rows of iris, foxglove,
Canterbury bells and many other
favourites. Joan is moving plants
all season long whether they have
finished blooming or not. She
divulged her method to me and it
really works. Before moving she
waters the plant well, moves it and
places it in its new location and
waters it well again. The water
helps keep the fine soil around the
fine root hairs and reduces the
shock of moving.
Don't underestimate the value of
preparing the hole where you will
place your new plant. It pays to
take a bit of time to dig deeply,
chop a little bone meal and well -
rotted manure or compost in the
hole before placing your plant in.
Tamp the soil uniformly around the
roots and water well.
If you are moving later in the
spring or early summer after the soil
has warmed up it would be a good
idea to mulch lightly to keep the
moisture around your new plant.
We all have signs we look for
when we are out buying new
additions for our gardens. Here are
some tips that will prove useful
when you go shopping.
Boxed plants: You should look
for compact, sturdy stems, even
growth and moist soil. Avoid plants
that are in full flower, lanky stems,
blemished or yellow, diseased
leaves and, most importantly, roots
growing through the base of the
tray.
Bagged plants: All those bagged
plants we see in our grocery stores
and hardware shops are sure
tempting but look for a dormant
plant. Leaf buds beginning to open,
shrivelled or diseased stems or
small white roots growing into the
packaging material could give you
problems later on.
Container plants: Larger plants
in containers should be clearly
labelled and small weeds or green
algal growth on the soil as well as
small roots peeping through the
container are all good signs. Plants
in larger containers are supposed to
be in a growing state and the small
roots will tell you this. Watch out
for wilted leaves, dry soil, split
container, thick root growing
through the base and any sign of
pests or diseases.
Balled plants, like evergreens,
should be felt. You don't want to
feel girdling roots through the
sacking. The soil ball should be
intact and lop -sided growth should
be avoided.
• Now if you are anything like me
you can't resist a bargain. If a plant
looks fairly healthy despite some
negative signs I will break down
and buy it if the price is right.
Gardeners are eternal optimists and
will try to save anything no matter
what the odds. If you are willing to
take the risk, go for it.0
Rhea Hamilton -Seeger, in addition to
working in advertising production
for The Rural Voice, raises two child-
ren, and is a skilled cook and
gardener.
APRIL 1993 57