The Rural Voice, 1990-04, Page 45isolation of suburban yuppiedom),
had only recently decided that maybe
it was time to give over a sizeable
acreage to organic experimentation.
Each was interested in how Knives &
Forks and the movement it represents
could influence his business.
Although the subject was discussed
at length, it is not clear at this stage
exactly who or what Knives & Forks
is looking for. Applications for space
in the next market, which will open
May 26 on a semi-permanent basis
and run 27 consecutive Wednesdays,
are available from co-ordinator Jane
Herman (59 Shalimar Boulevard,
Toronto). The application does ask
the farmer to indicate OCIA status.
Knives & Forks membership will en-
compass both the buyer and the seller.
The criteria are not yet written in
stone.
As businessmen, the 40 or more
chefs at the Winter Congress covered
as wide a range of operational differ-
ences as the farmers did. With the
exception of one chef from Grey
County, they were almost exclusively
working in downtown Toronto. But
they ran the gamut from independent
owner -operators to hired men. "Who
will hold the membership in Knives &
Forks," one chef asked, "myself or the
restaurant I work for?"
Small, intimate operations were
represented, and so was at least one
very large concern. John Higgins, a
straightforward and amiable Scot, is
head chef for the King Edward Hotel.
He oversees a fine dining room, a
small cafe, and room service facilities.
He manages a food service budget of
$10,000,000. Ten million dollars! He
is responsible for providing both top
quality and a respectable bottom line.
And yes, he too is interested in
organics.
Already his dining room is serving
about 40 per cent organic foodstuffs,
the cafe maybe 10 per cent. Higgins
recognizes the economic realities of
organic production. He expects and is
willing to pay a premium price.
How and where he can incorporate
the more expensive products vary. In
the King Edward dining room, for ex-
ample, food costs account for a hefty
40 per cent of the budget (compared to
the 28 per cent cost allowable in a
banquet situation).
Every week, for example, the King
Edward buys upwards of 600 pounds
of carrots for kitchen use. These
kitchen carrots are not presented to the
diner in their near original form, but
are processed into sauces and soup
stocks and purees, a perfect place for
the incorporation of organic products
which might not be as picture -perfect
as their non -certified counterparts.
With such massive volumes of
vegetables to deal with, Higgins
stresses the importance of efficiency
of handling. He and his staff do not
have time for surprises. "I would
rather have a mediocre batch of carrots
week after week than a good batch this
week and a poor batch the next." For
handling purposes, he says, consis-
tency in size, quality, and availability
is essential.
The smaller restaurants are able to
accommodate more flexible buying
patterns and the idea of a farmer's
market originated with them.
The Knives & Forks Farmer's
Market will be open to members only
in the morning. Buying patterns will
evolve gradually. In the afternoon, to
give the vendors additional exposure,
the general public will be invited to
shop at the somewhat exclusive venue.
It is hoped that as the market grows
and gains momentum, so will a new
affinity between the food consumer
and the food grower.
At the Winter Congress, the farm-
ers had some immediate concerns.
They asked about licensing and per-
mits. They wondered if the proposed
location was the best choice in tetras
of accessible loading and unloading
facilities. The meat producers ex-
pressed concerns about refrigeration.
As one producer said, "It isn't real-
ly logical for us to take the time and
care to grow a quality product, only to
present it in a slipshod manner."
"We've seen confiscation of
product for only slight infringements
of regulations," said another farmer
who sells regularly at market venues.
"We need some assurances."
Already the dialogue was leading
to a new understanding between the
two factions. It was decided that
regardless of possible pitfalls, it was
in everyone's best interest to forge
ahead. The market will open at the
Latvian House at 491 College Street.
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Box 214, Stratford, Ont.
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519-271-2855 – office
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APRIL 1990 41