Village Squire, 1979-12, Page 32'TRAVEL
The way it was
in winter -
BY TONY SLOAN
The bush plane skipped in across the
winter snows towards the lakeshore and
the clustet of log buildings backgrounded
by the northern Ontario woods.
Wood smoke rose straight as an arrow,
in the cold air, from the chimney of the
largest lodge. This was the operational
base for Headwaters, the highly regarded
outdoor specialists and outfitters who teach
all -season living and travel in Canada's
northern wilderness.
The base camp is located about 80 km by
air from the town of Temagami which is, in
turn, 90 km by rail or road (Hwy. 11) north
of North Bay, Ontario. A knot of about a
dozen parka -clad "inhabitants", wearing
snowshoes and backpacks carne forward as
the swirl of snow, blown up by the
aircraft's propeller, settled down. This
wasn't a reception committee. They were
instructors with students on a seven-day
course, who were about to set out on a 25
km hike through the rugged forest and lake
country of the Precambrian Shield. I was
quickly fitted with snowshoes by Camp
Director, Hugh Stewart and joined the pack
as they trekked off over the snow-covered
ice of Lake Anamanipissing. Anamanipiss-
ing is an Indian word meaning headwaters.
The easy, loping stride of the guides and
the rhythmic sway of the well conditioned
students set a steady pace. After about an
hour on the trail, we paused for a 'mug up'
(individual's choice of a hot drink carried in
a thermos). At this point, the new recruit,
who was already blowing steam, doubted if
he could maintain the pace for the whole 25
km circuit. While the others continued on
as planned, I backtracked to camp and
spent the rest of the day exploring the
area's trail circuit on skis.
Many exponents of cross-country skiing
believe that skis will eventually replace the
more traditional snowshoe in Canada's
north for non -motorized travel. The
Headwaters' experience does not bear this
out. Skis are swift and easy with only a
backpack on a lake surface or good trail,
but for bushwacking in thick bush, deep
snow or steep terrain, the snowshoe is still
king. Towing a toboggan, on extended
overnight trips, requires the steady pull of
the snowshoer. The added drag interferes
with the skier's normal glide and reduces
the pace to an ungainly walk.
Early winter darkness was setting in
when the last stragglers rounded the point
out on the lake and came within sight of the
30 Village Squire. December 1979
camp. The cheery glow from the cabin
windows meant good things to the
trail -weary and hungry travellers. A few
moments' relaxation in a warm, comfort-
able chair were followed by a veritable
mound of superb food. The inherent
hardships and risks associated with winter
travel on foot in the Canadian wilderness
are hypothermia and fatigue, whiteouts,
breaking through ice, hunger, a disabling
injury and a rarely reported case of snow '
blindness.
The code of the trail prevails at the
Headwaters' dining table...this is no place
for the tardy. The main reasons for such
unrestrained voraciousness are the high
sustenance needs of winter travellers and
the undeniable talents of camp "cuisin-
iere" Cheryl Harding. The following night.
Cheryl acceded to popular request and
served pizza as the main course.
Notable performances were chalked up
by all, but guides Kirk Smith, Hoss
Haiblen and Dan Gibson, lean and hungry
lads, bordered on the incredible. The
prodigious quantity of food they stowed
away would have raised a glint of envy in
the eye of a wolverine.
Following our feast, we repaired to the
library where the instructors gave lectures
on birds, animals, trees and the geological
structures of the area. There were readings
on the nomadic life of the Indians before
the coming of the white man, and how
lumbering and mining replaced trapping
and hunting as their primary livelihood
activities.
Next day, we were given a choice of
either snowshoeing across the lake and
climbing Lookout Mountain or donning skis
and doing a 20 km loop of trails and
abandoned logging roads adjacent to the
camp.
It was on the winding, sometimes steep
trail through heavy woods on the
mountainside, that the snowshoes proved
their worth. To have attempted the same
climb and descent on skis would have been
out of the question.
The afternoon was spent preparing
equipment and checking out gear for a
three-day and two -night camping expedi-
tion planned for the morrow. The afternoon
session ended with everyone participating
in a demonstration on how to erect a
four -man expedition tent. The lecture
included how to select, cut and tie tent and
ridge poles and the assembly and
installation of the camp stove inside the
tent. A visit to the equipment cabin
followed where 1 was issued special gear
suitable for winter wilderness travel.
Felt -lined buckle boots, anorak, parka,
heavy wool trousers, mitts, duffel bag and
a specially insulated sleeping bag with
ground pad are only some of the items that
take the sting out of the cold winter wind.
Food. duffel bags, stoves, tents were all
1.1C1 4)11(
THE GIFT THAT...
KEEPS ON GIVING
JEWELLERY
KIT FORM - MAKE IT
YOURSELF
CUSTOM MADE - AT LOW
COST
STONES ARE NATURAL
MINERALS IMPORTED
FROM ALL OVER THE
WORLD. NO GLASS OR
PLASTIC.
Tiger Eye, Carnelian,
Amethyst Quartz,
Garnet, Moonstone,
Jade, Opal, and Tots
more.
Rings, Pendants, Beads,
Necklaces, Belt Buckles,
Bola Ties, Bracelets,
etc.
VISIT...MINI MINERAL
-MUSSEUM - NO CHARGE.
o`-i/ra je ms
51 ST. DAVID ST., GODERICH, ONT. N7A 1L4
524-9972