Village Squire, 1978-09, Page 29TRAVEL
Cape Breton the beautiful
[BY G.P.]
Imagine yourself sitting in the gracious
diningroom of the Highland Inn at Iona.
There you are by one of the big picture
windows looking out across the Bras d'Or
Lakes.
It's evening and the setting sun has just
begun to tint the surface of the water with a
subtle pink that can be found nowhere in
art save in a Turner canvas. You've carried
a bit of the fragrant, smell of October into
the room when you entered. The gracious
host, who not so long ago lived in Huron
County has just taken your order for
rainbow trout fresh from the lake below the
window.
The forecast is for fair weather and
tomorrow you are going to drive from
Badeck to Margaree Forks after spending
the morning at the Alexander Graham Bell
Museum. From there at The Forks you will
cut south-west to pick up the famed Cabot
Trail at Donvegan and relax before starting
another glorious day in Cape Breton.
You've driven a thousand miles for the
chance to take one of the most beautiful
roads in Canada, and picked your time for
the fall colours. Now as you sit, mouth
watering for the trout that is soon to be
served, you check the map again and
determine to take your time so you will
savour every moment of daylight on The
Trail.
Could you have planned a more perfect
fall trip? I doubt it.
Tomorrow at Badeck you will be,
possibly for the first time able to feel the
full scope of the imagination of Bell, a
Canadian born genius. The small museum
in its lovely park is a gem in its own right,
and in October with the summer crowds
gone you will be able to take your time and
enjoy each exhibit to the full. The well
paved road through the rolling hills to
Donvegan will whet your appetite for the
moment when you head out on The Trail
itself. Let's hope you have brought spare
film. You'll want it.
Don't plan to make it a marathon race,
but rather be prepared to stop at every turn
out along the way,' not just to stretch your
legs, and give yourself the chance to get
the feel of The Trail in all its autumn glory,
with the sea on one side and the hills on the
other. Don't waste any time indoors eating
in a restaurant. Spend every waking
moment to collect visual images. You'll
return with a favourite spot and 1 have
mine. Yours may be Margaree Harbour or
the view farther on from the top of Cape
Smokey.
Don't dare hurry by St. Ann with its
museum and stand there wondering at the
PG. 28. VILLAGE SQUIRE/SEPTEMBER 1978.
strength of that mighty man, Giant
McCaskell. While America's Paul Bunion
was pure myth, Giant was the real thing.
Perhaps too you will want to bring home
some fine woven souvenirs from the gift
shop.
Now on to North Sydney skirting St.
Ann's Bay and across the bridge over
Great Bras d'Or on the way to North
Sydney. If you enjoy picnicing, there is a
lovely little park between town and the
great fortress at Louisburg.
Again at Louisburg give yourself lots of
time to look not only at the Fortress but at
the part of the village that has been so
faithfully reconstructed. This great French
fortress was unique in North American
history and there is nothing to compare
with it save the great Spanish fortress at
Cartegena in Columbia. Let's hope one day
you will be able to make that comparison
first hand.
Now back to Highway 4 and your car
headed for St. Peters. Again you will be
following close to the Bras d'Or Lake and
viewing it from a fresh angle. Take time
out at St. Peters to look at the canal that
never paid off as a short cut. Back to the
Causeway and you must bid a sad good-bye
to a still unspoiled corner of Canada.
One last suggestion, if you do not have to
hurry home at once via the Trans -Canada,
you have another interesting possibility.
Cut south at Amherst through Springhill
and visit Five Islands park on the Minas
Basin. It's a pretty camp ground with a
lovely beach to stroll on at low tide.
From there you can head west to the
famous Hopewell Rocks, another wonder-
ful place to leave the car and scramble
about at low tide with your cameras.
Then as you move on to Highway 114 in
New Brunswick and cut north through
Fundy Park to join the Trans -Canada
again, if you have raced right through
non-stop to get to your target of Cape
Breton it would be pleasant to break the
trip at the Mactaquac Dam to visit one of
the most attractive Canadian craft groups
in the land, and again a stop over at Grand
Falls to enjoy the gorge. And of course
south of the Falls you will wish to turn off
and drive across the celebrated covered
Bridge at Hartland.
And finally off for home with a hundred
happy memories highlighted without doubt
by the Cabot Trail and Louisburg.
If you respond as the writer has to our
East Coast, you will find yourself returning
every year or two for it is a land that gets
into the blood, a clean, friendly land
scented by evergreen forests and the ever
present sea.
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