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Village Squire, 1975-07, Page 30The Squire's chef thinks of picnics and things cool BY R. B. RUDD In July one's thoughts naturally turn to picnics and cool drinks and Tight tasty dishes that tempt palates jaded by hot days. One of the delights of summer cooking is the great variety of cold soups. These imports from Europe make a tempting basis for summer luncheons or exotic starters for a summer evening meal. All the cold soups or fruit soups require careful preparation and exact seasoning. It may be useful here to mention that spices and herbs should be fresh. Buy in small quantities and renew often. Those spices which can be ground or grated just before are best. For example, a Tight sprinkle of freshly ,ground nutmeg is worth a much greater amount of ready ground spice. Vanilla beans, stick cinnamon, whole pepper corns, whole allspice and cloves are always best. An extra pepper grinder will serve for some of these. Really outstanding adventures in flavour can be yours if you adopt habit of using fresh spices. I Now back to our summer soups. One of the most familiar and most popular is Vichysoise, a lightly flavoured delight made from potato, leeks and chicken broth. By the way pronounce Vichysoise, Veeshee Swawze. In a suitable pot melt Y cup of butter. If sweet (unsalted) butter is available your soup will be better. Thinly slice the white part of 4 medium sized leeks, one medium onion and add to the butter. Cook until the leek and onion become transparent. Some say to brown but my recommendation is to avoid this since it may produce off flavour or color. When the onion and leek is ready add 5 or 6 thinly sliced medium sized potatoes, a quart of chicken broth (remember the chicken bits you saved from that delightful dish described in April). Simmer until everything is tender 28, VILLAGE SQUIRE/JULY 197s (season with about '/: tsp. salt about half way through). The next step requires a blender for best results. Blend or puree thoroughly and return to the pot. Add 3 cups milk and one cup of heavy cream. If you really don't want to go to the expense of the cream, use milk. An acceptible dish results but it lacks that certain something that the cream contributes. Whatever you decide, milk or cream, bring just to boil. DO NOT BOIL.Chill this mixture after adding another cup of cream. Vichysoise is nicest served in wide soup plates garnished with finely chopped chives. Try the blossoms as an added bit of colour. Drop on a nasturtium blossom for variety. Another heavenly mixture of tomato, green pepper, onion, cucumber and garlic, is uncooked, refreshing on a hot day, easy to prepare and is called Gazpacho. Puree, in a blender, one clove garlic, one medium onion, one cucumber, three tomatoes peeled, one green pepper and four eggs. Add seasoning 1/8 tsp. salt, 1/8 tsp. cayenne pepper, 1/4 cup vinegar, 3/4 cup tomato juice. If you want authentic Gazpacho also add about 1/4 cup of olive oil. Omit the oil if you don't have olive oil, but I recommend getting the oil somewhere. Chill the soup. Garnish with bread cubes browned in olive oil and garlic, finely chopped cucumber (one), finely chopped onion (one) and finely chopped green pepper (one) just before serving. Again this soup is most attractive in flat soup plates. There are other equally delicious cold soups for hot, days. Avocado, chicken broth and cream seasoned with black pepper; Avocado, ruby consomme and sour cream seasoned with dill are two delights. Berries, sour cream and wine combine to give a different sensation. Cherries, citrus fruit, peaches, seasoned with cinnamon and garnished with whipped cream sounds like a dessert but with a luncheon on a hot day - ah! mentioned a nasturtium flower as a garnish for Vichysoise. Try carnation petals or chrysanthemum petals sprinkled on dishes. Violets have long been favourite eye and flavour catching garnishes. Let yourself go, fill a tulip with salad or fill a gladiolus blossom. Nasturtium Leaves make great summer sandwiches. Geranium is a wonderful flavour in apple jelly, garnish desserts with the blossoms. Here is another delight from the Home Cookbook compiled by the ladies of Toronto and chief cities and Towns in Canada. This is a Lunch for washing days or other days of extra labour. First Course: Raw Oysters with lemon and crackers. Second Course: Cold Veal with jelly and Saratoga potatoes; bread and butter. Dessert: Cherry pie with cheese. Remember, that in 1877 when this book was published, washing was a much more arduous task than it is now. A perfect lunch for a hot summer wash day would be a bowl of Vichysoise sparkling with cool green chives and made Lively with a colourful blossom. A few slices or Melba toast and a glass of your favourite beverage would be a fitting accompaniment. That's all for now. 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