The Village Squire, 1981-10, Page 31Squire's Table
Whitewashed walls with the sun
pouring in from big windows. Interesting
paintings in bright primary colours, small
tables covered in sea -blue cloths, bent -
wood chairs on tile floor. You could, with
a little wishful thinking, be in Mexico.
Instead you're at Under the Volcano,
London's Mexican restaurant that's been
in a big old house just across the tracks on
Colborne St. for five years. On a warm
day, scarce now alas, you can sit
comfortably at tables on a small porch or
fenced -in back garden.
But any time of year you can eat huge
helpings of a beginning -to -be -appreciat-
ed national cuisine. The menu is large
and varied: "It's changing soon, fewer
items and lower prices," our waitress
told us.
While lower prices are always
welcome, we weren't at all unhappy to
pay about $20 for a large two course
dinner for two, with a glass of wine each.
Trips to Mexico, even imaginary ones,
don't come cheap.
We started with green salads, a variety
of shredded lettuce, tomatoes, green
onions, cucumbers and sprouts in a tart
house dressing ($1.50). We could have
had nachos, guacamole, a couple of
soups, gazpacho or queso fundido (a sort
of fondue of cheese, sausage and hot
sauce, eaten with hot tortillas). Compli-
mentary tortilla chips with a spicy tomato
sauce are on each table, along with fresh
flowers and a small bottle of tabasco in
case the Volcano's offerings aren't hot
enough for ya.
Our main courses were a couple of the
menu's pricier items, acapulco
enchiladas at $8.50, a gorgeous chicken,
sour cream, cheese and onion mixture
tolled on a tortilla and topped with
almonds and avocados. Enchilladas de
queso was a vegetarian's dream, tortilla
layered with cheese, tomatoes and
yummy pickled peppers and topped with
sour cream and shredded cheese. Both
entrees came witha special clear sauce
with a chicken stock base, unusual and
spicey hot, delicious rice pilaf (or its
Mexican equivalent) and a small salad.
Other entrees include a selection of
tacos at $5.25 or $6.25; enchilladas at
55.50 or $6.50 a combo plate at $6.75,
Mexican ribs 17.25, tostadas, or
quesadillas, huevos rancheros.... egg
and steak with a cheese and vegetable
sauce or sour cream enchilladas. We
were intrigued by the chonita,a pastry
DomthtohTththg
gouhge andUouehh
++tt.
Hours: dinner 5:00 - 7:30 p.m. daily
Sunday 4:00 - 8:00 p.m.
Fully Licensed L.C.B.O.
Reservatinns accepted
Master Charge VIsA
17 Aih St..5uhtek
Thooe 226-4271
YOUR HOSTS - DAVID AND MARIE
GE LINAS
filled with chicken, sour cream and hot
peppers and then deep fried, topped with
a vegetable sauce and accompanied by
refried beans at $8.75. And by flautas, a
tolled tortilla deep fried and filled with
chicken and cheese and served with
guacamole (avocado dip) sour cream and
a salad, S6.25. Next time.
Don't be afraid to be adventurous at
Under the Volcano. It's spotless, nearby
diners in the small room tucked into
everything on the menu with obvious
relish, and our waitress was very helpful
about what's what.
In fact, you can learn lots about
Mexican food if you're a novice just by
reading the menu. We look forward with
interest to the new one.
Whether you've been to Mexico and
are feeling nostalgic, have developed a
taste for this fine style of cooking that's
becoming very popular in North America
now, or just want to try something new,
Under the Volcano is worth a drive.
Reservations aren't always necessary
but it's a small place that tends to fill up
fast so call ahead if you're coming from a
distance. Under the Volcano, 300
Colborne St., London. Wine and beer
licence. Visa, Mastercharge. 438-9105.
• 115 well appointed guest rooms
• A !a carte dining room
• After theatre entertainment
• Boutique and gift shop
• Only a few minutes walk from the Festival
Theatre, art gallery, Lake Victoria, Stratford
Golf & Country Club
• Indoor pool & sauna
10 Romeo Street North
Stratford Ontario
N5A 5M7
1-519-271-4650
VILLAGE SQUIRE/OCTOBER 1981 PG. 25