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The Village Squire, 1981-10, Page 15A young city couple runs this country store in Newfa,,e Vermont, where Henry Kissinger spends his summers. It's full of beautiful local crafts. beautiful, but somewhat lifeless place the day we visited. There are countless sidetrips within an easy afternoon of southern Vermont. In search of the ocean, we drove through Brattleboro and across New Hampshire on route 9 to Kennebunkport Maine, about 200 miles. The old seafaring village has been thoroughly developed with many tiny boutiques that are, a local man told us, too rich for many peoples' pockets. But you can look, there's a terrific beach nearby and there are some inexpensive restaurants where you can sample the local seafood. Fried clams are a specialty. Our native friend recommended visiting before July 1 or after Labor Day ... then beaches are so quiet you might see a porpoise. The Rachel Carson National Wildlife Refuge is nearby. After a full course $1.35 breakfast at the Corner Restaurant in North Berwick you can head north from the Maine coast through the White Mountains of New Hampshire. Highways 112 and 118 go over some spectacular chasms and passes. From there we backtracked south along the Connecticut River, which divides New Hampshire and Vermont, then headed across Vermont on Route 4 and eventually caught up with the New York Thruway near Amsterdam. Now, the New York Thruway will get you from Buffalo to Vermont fast, but it bypasses some of the most beautiful sights in our neighbouring state. Some stops are recommended. The most important is the Montezuma National Wildlife Refuge, a six thousand acre site, just off the thruway near Seneca Falls. A restored marsh area opened in 1937, the refuge has had 140,000 Canada Geese in April and as many migrating ducks in fall. It's open from dawn to dusk and a welcome rest from the pace of thruway driving. Seneca Falls itself has some interesting Victorian artchitecture. The town hosted one of the earliest women's rights conventions but we failed to find a plaque commemorating the occasion. Seneca Falls is just slightly north of the Finger Lakes district, a popular, slow-paced New York resort area that is worth a visit. The Mohawk Valley, west of Amster- dam has museums and restored forts from the 18th century Indian Wars. And there's a restaurant near Fultonville, the Poplars Inn, which serves the biggest porterhouse steak we'd ever seen, for $12.50. It was good too, though the rest of the meal was pretty ordinary. Then if you're a traveller with lots of time, you really should get out of the car and wander a bit at Niagara Falls. Eat a picnic in the park and marvel as we did at all the international visitors who come to this Canadian -American wonder of the world. And as you head for home. your only problem will be finding time and money to visit New England again. VILLAGE SQUIRE/OCTOBER 1981 PG. 13