The Brussels Post, 1976-11-10, Page 15insulation around windotq
should be snug Wog,
Compressing bait type insulation
may nullify the “R" value,
if space is limited consider
rigid types.
Where space is limited —. or wall
strapping is impractical, consider
rigid insulation.
To combat any'future
dampness problems,
coat basement walls
with a good
waterproofing agent.
To warm cold floors consider
a subflooring, covered with
carpeting or carpet tile. A cold
air return to the furnace will
help remove static cold air from'
floor level. if basement has a
fireplace — keep damper tightly closed.
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Strip Seal Strips .49
Foam Insulation Weatherstrip .79
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Storm Seal Adhesive Tape .84- 1." pkg.
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THE •BRUSSELS POST s NOVEMBER i976
How to insulate- your home
Almost all insulation is
lightweight and easy to
handle. Few tools are
needed, but care should,
be taken when you're
working with mineral
fibre-type insulation,
Small insulation particles
can cause skin irritation
and itching. It's a good
idea to wear gloves. And
ashower at the end of the
day will wash away
particles left on the skin,
When you're ready to
start in the attic area,
pull on a pair of running
shoes and watch your
step, Walk only on the
ceiling joists, . Most
Ceiling surfaces under the
joists are plastered; -too
much weight will
puncture the ceiling.
Boards laid across the
joists will give you. a
sturdy working platform.
To cut bait or rigid
insulation use a sharp
penknife or blade. Lay
the insulation on a flat
surface for cutting. Any
accidental cuts in the
vapor barrier should be
taped before the
insulation is finally
applied.
A heavy-duty -staple
gun is essential for
applying batt insulation:
You should be able to rent
one from your insulation
supplier or hardware
store,
Measure your walls and
floor and attic area
carefully. Once you've
decided on the R value
you need, talk over your'
requirerrients. With the
dealer, He'll help you
figure out the right
number of bags or
bundles of insulation, It's
bulky, so have it
delivered Store it in a dry
place until you're ready
to start to work,
Since warm air
naturally rises and tries
toescape, the ceiling is a
major source of heat loss.
Fortunately it's the
easiest place to add
insulation. It deserves
first priority for re-
insulation (or
"retrofitting") an
existing home or
insulating a new one.
Good ceiling insulation
will return fuel savings of
between 10 and -.30 per
cent depending on house
type and existing
inSulatien."
— Retrofit. First, find
out the condition and
depth- of insulation
already in your attic.
Some older homes have
none; most have a small
amount — a 2-inch or 3-
inch mineral fibre batt —
and this may have settled
or become water
damaged.
You should have a
ceiling R value of 20 or '
more, which means at
least 6 inches of
insulation. If you have
less than that — say a 3-
inch batt — you should
upgrade• it in one of two
ways:
(a) Add a further 3
inches of batt or blanket
insulation. You don't
need a vapor barrier
because there should ,be
one already on the
ceiling. Buy insulation
that comes without the
barrier. When you lay the
insulation, be sure that
all areas are covered
except, of course, tor the
eave vents and other
ventilators.
(b.) You can also use
bags of loose fill. Pour it
between the ceiling
joists, then use a garden
rake or a pusher (made,
from pieces of 2 x 2'' and
2 x 6' ) to smooth and
I settle the insulation into
all the corners. The fill
should -at least cover the
top of the ceilingjoists —
higher if more thermal
resistance is required.
Check the. R value per
inch printed on the bags.
,Again be sure not to block
the vents,
If there's no insulation
and no' vapor barrier in
your attic, install one
before insulating. In this
case plastic sheeting
looped over the joists and
fitted snugly down to the
ceiling board would be
best.
— New homes. The
ceiling in a new home or
extension should be
(Continued on page 16)