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Clinton New Era, 1910-02-17, Page 9.4 t nton CLINTON, ONTARIO THURSDAY FEBRUARY 17, 1910 VOL 4D NO,, W„ H. Kerr 8c Son, Editors and Publishers. Vie4111141111, TES, PAKI ()N5 AAA Cloth, Velvet and Crepe de Chine! House Gowns of Graceful and Novel Designsi, ZiL,A(A)A1k. Old Rose Crape de Chine Gown with Crystal and Gold Einbroidery"--7 • hoto qopyrigit,by Beutlingeee 11xclusive Copyright New York Herald Oi1-r-i.t ..„,„"--.. . Cerise Velvet Gown with Clo ---'.-- . *Applique --P- Ivory Liberty Satin Gown with Orientals • Maiso.n:•Barrpn_ Photo Copyright by Rentlinger nxeltisive Copyright New York Herald BY A. T. ASHMORE. OWNS to wear in the house are this seasoii receiving a great deal of attention, for the ,skirt and fumy waist are no longer -con- . sidered fashinealdc unless when part of il street vostnme with. coat to math. Even the waist of the sitrim, color if not the'saine material as the shirt does not answer the same purpose, and fashion requires the entire gown, complete in itself for house wear. 'rho; term, house gown is rather misleading of late !years. It has been applied to teal gowns 01111 1110,3l'hi Of that deseription,,• but the house gown of to -day is quite! different, for. while ostensibly intended! 1)1 worn only 111 the house, it is quite; appropriate for the street if worn withi the right sort of tang cont. As a rule, it; a -to he worn in the street. mde of material too light in weight I The edict 1018 got" forth that tbe one- piece gown o no longer smart, but as it always takes several months to estab- I lisl, any ride at direct variance with the! ata prevailing style of the moment. it is quite 811 fe to assort that there will he any tem- bi t if extremely smart one-pieee gowns sin this winter. At the same time the( very latest gowns are mile with waist and skirt separnte. l•mt when adjested the effect is preeisely thn slime as though they were 11:1 on in one. Now that it is again feshionable to display every line of the figure Instead of suggesting it adroit-, ly, the grentest wire is token in the sc. leetiote Of materials, for those thnt nye light II m1 pm NO eon be far IMMO -malty dealt with then min the henvfer fabrih. A silk uniadiell cashmere is one of the! new niate.iels, or satin finish eloth, crepe. de Chine, eltiffon, velvet and the 1101 weights ef satin ere all extremely popn- ler. and there is a great vrtriety in color and shade. There are faseinating dead leaf colors—green and brown—oid blue, rose, Dinka the old fashioned garden -Ob.' b040, '40104 theta ouA alpirt the 'te Maison •Rondeau • ihoio Copyright by Reutlinger • Hxclusive Copyright New York Herald Blue Crgpe de Chine Gown with Bands of Fur Martial pt Armand filen) Copyright by ittattlinger In:elusive Copyrinlit New York Herald .Striped Blue and Gray Cloth Gown, ' . Photo Copyright by Rentlinger Exeluelve Copyright New Yoyk Hernial a, overskirt Or massed in - the waist and sleeves. There is no positive, 'unchange- able 'tete about the trimming, and this WaS such a disagreeable feature of last year's fashions has quite disappeared, the too tight fitting skirt and the too scanty effect having been relegated to the back- ground of - out of date impossibilities. At thek same time the smartest of the new gowns ate so cut and fashioned that every good,line of the figure is tnost prominently displayed, but there is Much more flare about the foot of the skirt and Aiwa is more fulness in both waist and skirt. • even, with the perfect tit that is required. Draped :effects, with double skirts and tunic draperies, are among the models for the whiter, • The turned over upper skirt, somewhat on the order of what was once keown as the fishwife skirt, is among the • popelar models. It can be graceful and It can be most hideously unbecoming, and while it gives the appearance of being ex., tremely simple and easy to make it Is in • reality very dillieult and requires the settled services of one, proficient in the art of dressmaking. The new skirts are almost without exception quite intricate and diffi- cult in'comparison with. those that have • been in style for the last few years, but it utast be admitted that there is more possibility of "hiding defects of figure as its • dressmaking • when elaborate trimmings are used than-ht.the absolutely plain skirts that display every little detail in a most blatant Way. Changeable silk in a delightfully soft, pliable' quality makes up satisfactorily in gowns of this order and is fashionable this season, but has not as yet proved so popular as the silk and satin • finished cloths, for, soft "frnd beautiful as it is, it lacks the possibilities of the latter ma- terials, which are in curious contrast with • the rough, shaggy materials that are do much in favor for street costumes. Elaborate New Trimmings. helps immensely in securing the different effects,. for again there is' the chance that fashion, permits this season of the in- dividual taste and appearance being eon - stilted rather than the'follewIng literally of,some cast iron rule, that commands the same .colors and lines in the tall or short, the stout or 'slender, the brunette or blonde and in consequence nine woiaen ou of ten look badly gewned,..and the tenth a. dream of beauty.. , The 'details of lines and trimming. were never. so carefully studied as they are this • autumn and to such good results in 'consequence. , If it is • MOM becoming to have • flat folds. of velvet' a mi. fiat passementerie on the body Of the whist and a plaiti 'skirt,- then that 'Mattel can be chosen, but if full soft trimming. on- the waist•and a draped or tunic skirt•ls more becoming that model -call: be Selected.. The.woman blessed with. a bong . line, from throat. to bust can this winter choose from many models, the fiat. surpliee. folds will look - 'well,. but. the woman -with short lines will have more .difficulty. There is a tendency in- the new gowns to bring the. trimining 'On the waist quite high, even when the wai4t line is placed in ;aerate). position,„ arid this' is: a most unbecoming fashion, for an inch difference In length 'will make a mar- velleus 'difference ' in appearance. Flat rather than blouse effects are the style of the moment but there are many 'faseinat-: cshes of rests. that very, mysterlorely smithies -dal tailor" that hints of old ro- manees, and many different '13114lIeti of White, so that .there is no excuse for an unbecoming one. There are many now kinds of trimmtuk this winter -'-superb hand embroideries, esquisite braiding and passementeries of all known and many hitherto unknown varieties. The hand work oP necessity is expensive, but never has there been time when such attractive machine em - Maly attractive waists .that ,quite a. little full over (he belt: Again,' the ames- tion of the More becoming -decides the Choice, for if 'the flat,' severe lilies• are too trying the full; Softer effect 10 every- bit as failiionable.: . . • • • • New Styles. Contradictory. It jtj'a trite sentiment that the' bah: ions this season are- contradictory,. taut even a..hurried .glatice 'at the. absolutely diverse...at:31es that ere exhibited proves the- truth of it. , • The 'sleeves. ,of ,the dui* go•Wn receiv.e. a lot of attention,. and it is really extraor- dinary how- a sleeve can -•make or mar the appearance of ..the smartest gown QVer de-. signed: • .• There are 84144 tight fitting sleeves; there are. large,' loose, oue; sduto are. oily .(Ithers .tetteb .the wrist and are...then„finished.with baeo ritffles. Theme.•are charmingly. picturesque sleeves, there are severely practical ones, until the Intind becomes confused with so :Witte a. range :of ; :choice. Sleeves- U- tile sante material tts the own are as a ride mom becoming thaw tape :`or net _tines; 'and- ..tme the favorite models for the cashmere. -gown is' made with it 'doge- fil- ling sleeve'. ot... the, same ,tabre., nuished With -fiat band Of. lace. • The sleeve is 'shirred on the inside. to give. twine fuleessi but never enough • to. intetkre - with the shape... The- close. fitting Wove reaching to .the trimtn,ed.below the .elbow With fiat bands of velvet,' braiding or eiti broidery,. -is ;ft becotaing and dis- plays good. atm 'most thoretighly, but, be it -reinembered, it also - displays any • -----„*.--- defect ot.modelling with the same literail- ness Picturesque, transparent 'sleeves Meng:More to a very elaborate style o.f, firma's, but are often put in the• gowns. in-- leUded• for the 'afternoon Amine wear. -They are 'levee appropriate for a gown- to be Worn:fettler a. eoat. and therefore not so often -.Chosen...for. these simpler Ito -use .. .-' . ' . • • .. - ..- - ' .. ' Velvet Very Popular. -- • •- • • .,.: • --- "Ve-M‘t- iS'.one of 'the. Most fashionable, .MaterisAtt this whiter. ;tin( most charm lug house -gowns 'are made of. it. The thin odd shades -of bine, rose,• gray and heliotrope are popular arid the gowns are: Very distinctive-- and beeemieg; .but they are not modelled after any one -set fash- ion. • Generally speakiett, they are in one piece, Or .n -lien• skirt and. waist .are sepia - rate they are put tegether•• so that the effect of. being all iiii one is •giVeri. The. skirts atelong, and the Chieyes reach to-. the :wrist, - where they • are finished with- donble lace ruffles, and -there is al ways a fell of Itae.e :at the throat-L-thelace with I he: yelloWish t inge • of1d • real lace:" :Some: jewelled .buttons or It jeWelled blieltle on • the antique order, with iltilepr tio..trita- ming,- is thought smitten ,•th,rta the much braided or trimmed Models, but the latter tire, else :e-xtraniely.. feshlointble, . '7 Chiffon velvet, Or a quality Witt. is soft and, will shape well, Is necessary to carry out the designs satisfactorily, and for the -benefit of womankindthe manufacturers . have ' mitforward this. season .a n.mst unustuil . variety ...of polars .And .qualities in the I moderate priced velvets. -.- , t•••••••. • '. • •: • • .. t • ."' • Fashion. Detail's That ,Every Woman. Should Know S yet no definite length has been adopted for suit coats, and dress- • makers are tilt -Meg out models that vary from the short to the long, although there are naore of the latter than the for- . • MOW+ young girls the .shirreci vel- vet toques,' 'which ere .riew this sea- • son, are,most popular. They are ,ex- ceedingly becoming to certain. faces, es- pecially youthful ones or • .those which have retained Youthful lines. The color is selected sotnewhat in rgspect to what Is beeoming, but on the whole black vel- vet is the favorite material, and there are fevi women to whom black velvet hats, provided the lines are suitable, are not becoming. . - As shown in the Illustration, very' little trimming is required, the usual decoration being a plume or fancy feather on the left side. A. colored plume or 4 white one.is usually used on a.black hat, especially for very young Wooten, instead of a black one. Aigrettes are also .very fashionable for Vat. 1—NHW BUTTON coat. tner. Contmon- sense favors the falai' longish coats, for the reason that skirts broideries Were be found of coloring are still made up without linings,. and and design qttite handsome enough for n111-"allY the added warmth of the coat the most expensive of fabrics and 84 pet- 8 One of the newest models is -shown -tn kirt is worth considering. fectly woven that it takes' a most keen Figura 1. the three button effect having eye to detect that they were not worked been carried over from summer styles, by hand, Applique and cut work em lanttittLeZik!'llacitresdett,liirledt(1)11tYntotttleig. broideries have returned to fashion, and of silk or velveton the' collar mid ?chief+ suggests a different season-. Coats are 4 e the went importa.- the eloth or satin gowns trimmed with velvnt appliqual embroidery are most ex- •frnth" a mallY feetive,•for the coloring of cloth and vet- !,1?I'eg(lasi4(1,111;11:i vet of the sante tone gives a eharta- belts or Aft ensiled effete% forming a cross trimming anywhere front the btist lug coutrast by red,on .if the difference to the hips, the sash Hue depending en - in the materials. tiroly upon the style of the cont. I lie 1.tst year were absolutely unlike these new 'Rem it Wort deal of variety also eoat is de3old of tr nun ng o ter That the' Enmity and prineess gowns of ut a nossilde in the arrangement of the trim- I.(' velvet Plee,:es 01111. efinqre yoke models is the first impression giVeio. but :Tile( on the trouts,. rite pointed fronts closer inspection Leol,N.s tway ,naee ming, whether in long lines ilown the front tetoide hottOm are rather nnustial and he - points in common. The exaggeration that !Of the gOWU, in bands around the skirt or on, rita. Z-811MM vsa.,vvr TOO111il, these turbans, and on sotto Of them velvet elloas or roses are used, a buckle of gold, silver and jewels being the only additional trimming. The toques have very full crowns and Shirred brims and are faced With satin, chiffon or velvet, which Is fathered or shirred. HATEIVEIt ;fashion may dictate to • obedient womankind in other waYS, there is one pert in which she is de - a • trui a—snittoi wm..xthtt cOSTVM11. fied, -and that is in regard to the short skirted costume. Again and again the Paris modistes have said to a waiting world, "Yon can have nci- more short skirts," Again "and again the world of women ha $ replied, "Oh, yes, but Wo rnustl" Consequently the short Skirt cos- tume has savoys been forthcoming 1(1 jaunty new guise with each succeeding Itis here •this season also, this time with sitensknt: Alipleated in most marvellous fashion in, an intricate design that no ono could possibly Mistake for last -season's short skirt. Something very mach resemblitil the Norfolk .jneket accompanies some .of the jauntiest of the new short Skirted eos.- Witiell are trimmed 'witb btatidine, straddl; and a little velvet. a tiot popular material for melt costa= -,„t.e41 are indeed o smart and comforts morning wear that every woman Wi1 f* to use them as a medium of escape Iron the tyranny of the long skirt, .