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Zurich Herald, 1949-12-15, Page 6at The tory There are few men who can say With truth that they have never made a joke about women's hats, 'Which are considered fair game. But Dr. G. Willett-Cunnington can take the subject seriously. He is Stn expert on women's dress and • recently gave an authoritative radio discourse on hats. Until the mid - sixteenth century, women's hats indicated social position; after that their chief airs was to emphasize personality. The "subtle hat lang- uage of women" demanded a vast range of materials, and Dr. Cun- nington said that in the last couple 01 centuries, "women have clapped on their heads the contents of the botanical gardens, together with much of the zoo—dowers, vege- tables, birds, birds' nests complete with eggs, snakes, scorpions, blue• bottles, dragon flies, cockchafers, stuffed kittens, bits of rabbit, foxes and other beasts of prey." Unt in all this bewildering variety of head- gear, there have been two baste types; one echoing the message of the dress, the other adding a post- script to it. In the naiddh• o1 the eixteeutl' century, the hair, hitherto almost totally concealed. escaped from cap. tivity and, ever since, has co• operated with headgear. For at least 100 years, the hair, and not the hat, was what mattered. Pres• ently, ladies began to wear tower- ing caps indoors and flat hats out- side. Hair, reinforced with all man- ner of pads and articficial tresses, mounted higher and higher until, instead of a cap, they decorated this hirsute mountain with such ornaments as a potchaise and horses of glass or a ship in full sail. Ladies wore on their heads huge edifices of fruit and flowers and a small farmyard of animals PATTERN -4653 12-20, 30--.2 -/- h4145 "1 want a classic that's interest- ing" is your motto! Here it is with deep neckline, 2 -button front, slant - away pockets on shirt frock, stun- ning in plain or plaids! Pattern 4653 in sizes 12, 14, 16, 18, 20; 30, 32. 34, 36, 38, 40, 42. Size 16 takes 414 yards 39 inch. This pattern, easy to use, simple to sew, is tested for fit. Has com- plete illustrated instructions, Send TWENTY-FIVE CENTS (25c) in coins (stamps cannot be accepted) for this pattern, Print plainly SIZE, NAME, ADDRESS, TYLE NUMBER, Send order to Box 1, 123 Eigh- teenth St., New Toronto, Ont. This mode of hairdressing reached such a pitch that when ladies' hair was pomaded, powdered and dressed, it was left for three months and could not be eotnbed.. Towards the end of the eigh- teenth century, this top-heavy and insanitary fashion declined, and hats began to oust hair from the first position. They became enorm- ous, and in the evening, ladies, anxious for height, wore tall feath- ers that served as signposts. All through the Napoleonic wars, hats were in the ascendant. The post- war years were exuberently roman- tic and brought back enormous hats trimmed with anything up to 120 feet of gaily colored ribbon and a profusion of decoration. Coal scuttle bonnets then appeared, and at dinner, ladies of fashion wore velvet berets as large as tea trays, so that a gentleman seated between two of them complained that he caught only an occasional glimpse of his plate. These wayward and high-spirited niodes gave place to the Victorian bonnet which gripped the nape of the neck so tightly that side movements of the head were checked; it also shielded the cheek so that the modest woman had per- force to look straight ahead. After the Crimean War, emanci- pation was in the air. Daring young ladies abandoned the bonnet and took to the faster hat which al- lowed them a broader view of the world. And then the fruit and vege- table vogue began again and the stuffed bird carne into its own. Not only wings and tails, but whole birds were planted on hats, • over- burdening the wearers with a wealth of ornithological upholstery. Hats swept onward triumphantly until in the early nineteen hundreds they became overwhelmingly big. Millinery was aggressive, too, and pinned to the head by large hatpins which stuck out like skewers. The First World War swept all this nonsense away and after it, women emerged with short hair and the famous cloche hat. During the Second World War, they tied their hair in mediaeval kerchiefs, Now hats are "in" again, still a trifle undecided as to what they will be, but, said Dr. Cunnington, "it is no longer the hat or the hair that matters most; it is the siert of head rather, the use she means to put that women will decide to have, or it to." Helpful Hints For Busy Women One of the handiest tools in my kitchen was once a long -handled, two-pronged fork. My husband turned it into my jack -of -all -work by bending both prongs up 90 de- grees, about an inch from the points..1 use it every day for pulling hot pans of food—roasts, cakes, baked potatoes from the oven. (It has saved me from any number of burns and blisters.) And I've found the gadget ever so handy for reach- ing hard -to -get articles on hign shelves and behind furniture; for catching the hem of a window shade that has slipped out of reach; and for picking up articles from the floor when stooping is difficult. It's a real effort -saver. * a, * Dust off the old-fashioned glass - front bookcase and add it to your closet equipment, for storing your bats, shoes, and best gloves. The dust won't reach them and with the convenient window, you can pick your article at a glance. I've found that mine saves more room for clothes in our small bedroom closet, 5 * >A No ironing's necessary (ole fns small daughter's ribbons. After washing and rinsing them as al- ways, I wrap each one around a smooth water glass until it is thor- oughly dry. Then when it's un- wound, presto! all freshly pressed and ready to wear. Grievances aren't like sheets -- they. should he slept on before being aired. CR-C)SSWOR P ZZL 1. StAdillOSS oW2 4, Hol{q,, 12 9. Atent Wareak 111. Nonenek3.i9S,a cleaneri% x. Ile located . Aceueita nee Pinochle seors . tale rsi1deilie S Style of dream A. PJatiert 3. French eom- Poser 2d. Left by ere 29. PalesII,, vlrlsge 30. 0 • 32.14 ria 22, Frying par 2I. Anthlingliore, 27. .Antique 38. Persian off 40, tatrl's name 41, 7]>ark-sktna ws 'Verson nlstnounte+d gi1eetric i' in04 . Ret4•ea,�1 0, Lia'tet in oto - tors aril Terris 53 Inorganic substaitats 03. 'Pear 01,142/1 mother -7. ('oroxiet• $..[mmaeea • So, Olte�,feel vessels + et, 7'a., 3 Article 9. tinge a n i mart 10. Trouble it. Color Iii. Cold dish 17. Mouse genua 241. Goodby 0. Affirmative 21. Incendiarism 3, Period of tint, 22, Kindof strop 4, Dinged boas 2tteco Dy p -L Xing Arthur's 01. Legends i, Nlance 20. Was uneasy orthwestern 31, Philhap-ino State tree 9, Fashion 24. Poem, DO 7711 1. Ancient 'Ft r• itiit(iilets. ;n 20. Arc the sacra ling• .i.Y 0.41 radius. 42. Beam 44.Notions 47. Send out 40. Little messes ,d Sime' `.an 51. Bmploy a3. Iteo,u•gov- etntne .c 54. Lighted 55. Discover 67. "i'rt:uriuta ($yanb. ) For Dutch Christmas—Hollander Peter Kien, 4, points to the address of an orphanage in Holland, for which this crate of candy is destined. His 6 -year-old sister l\larja looks carefully at the names on the crate. 'Teen-agers of the YWCA are send- ing "Chocolate for Christmas" overseas for undernourished youngsters in 18 countries. By the time you read this you'll probably be so deep in your holi• day tasks—and pleasures—that you won't want to bother with anything of a complicated nature. So here are a few recipes that are all fairly simple—but all good, and well worth clipping and saving if you can't get around to trying nein soon. Sonie call them pancakes, other griddle cakes; but no matter what name you prefer, they're nighty fine eating, especially when there's a real nip to the air. So here is a fine basic recipe for: Griddle Cakes 2 cups sifted all-purpose flour. 3 teaspoons baking powder 2 tablespoons sugar 1% teaspoons salt 4 tablespoons fat 2 eggs, beaten We cups milk, vary with thickness desired Method: Sift flour, baking pow- der, sugar and salt together. Cut in the fat as for biscuit or pastry. Combine the beaten egg with milk and mix with the other ingi"ntlients Just enough to moisten.• Follow manufacturer's instruc- tions for perparing the griddle. Some are treated and. require no fat. When griddle is hot, drop batter onto it from a tablespoon. Spread each cake lightly into a circle. Cook on one side until puffed, full of bubbles and cooked an the edges. Then cook an the other side. This recipe makes 10 to 12 cakes about four inches in dia- meter. Stack and serve with a li- beral supply of butter and ,jelly 01 syrup. The frankfurter—or hot dog to give it the more familiar name— has long been a standby with countless worsen when they have to prepare a meal in a hurry. Next time you think of serving them, try them as: Barbecued Frankfurters 1 cup tomato sauce ?/ cup molasses 2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce 74 cup vinegar 1 tablespoon bottled horse- radish 2 tablespoons dry mustard 3/4 teaspoon salt / teaspoon pepper - 74 cup minced onion 1 pound frankfurters Method: In a large skillet or saucepan combine all ingredients except the frankfurters, Bring to a boil. Arrange frankfurters hi hot sauce and simmer 10 minutes. basting and turning occasionally. Serve on long buns. Makes four or five servings. So many people seem to be changing from white to brown or whole wheat bread these days that perhaps it wouldn't be amiss if I passed along this recipe for; Whole Wheat Rolls 34 cake compressed yeast 1 cup lukewarm water 1 cup scalded milk 1% tablespoons sugar 2V teaspoons salt 23 q cups flour 234 cups whole wheat flour 1 tablespoon melted shortening Sottene,,yeast in one-fourth cup of lukewarm water. Combine milk and rest of water and add sugar and salt. When milk solution is lukewarm, add yeast mixture. Sift white flour once and measure. Mea- sure whole wheat flour and blend the two together. Add half of the flour rniatiu•e and beat thoroughly, Add shortening acrd blend. Add just enough of. the remaining flour to make a dough that is stiff enough to knead. Knead thor- oughly for 10 minutes. Let rise in waren place (80 de- grees) until double in bull(, Punch dough down and let it rise until it is double in size again; then rnold into rolls. Let rise until lighter than for bread. Bake about 20 minutes in a 400. degrees oven. And now,o for those of you who have a "sweet tooth," here's how to go about making a really deli- cious: English Toffee Method Put in heavy skillet lb. of butter Heat until bubbly, but not brown. Add: 1% cup sugar • 2 tblsp. water Yi b. whole blanched almonds os' other nuts Cook over moderate heat, stir- ring constantly, until the nuts are toasted through and sugar is light brown. Pout into buttered 754 x 11 -inch pan. Cool thoroughly. 'Turn out on waxed paper. Melt: 3 (1 -oz.) squares chocolate or / package semi -sweet chocolate pieces Spread -a thin coating over toffee with spatula. When hard, turn• tof- fee and coat other side. Let harden. Crack into small ' pieces (it's very rich) with mallet or wooden spoon. Makes 2 dozen . pieces, s k" may Coliezz dot "Dear Anne Hirst: My husband has accused ane of having an affair with his brother -his own brother, who has always treated me like a sister. He has hurt us, for we both love him. nour marriSiagece - over three years ago, my husband has moved us from one place to another. IVlost times we had to live in one room out on a dairy farm, My children have had 110 playmates, and have hardly ever been to church or Sunday school. "If 1 have a woman for a friend, he runs her down, as he does my own family. My • father lives 150 miles away. I have visited him a few times, and my husband accuses race of having affairs with boys I've grown up with there, boys who have always respected nae and my fam- ily! "I could almost forgive him that, but this last charge against his brother 'and me hurts most. I have never been untrue to him, and never intend to he. "Hove can things like this last? Is it fair to my little girls, to be brought up in marriage their father has built on distrust? What is wrong? 1 ani tempted to quit and make a new life for the children and me. If nay husband is i11 in some way, I'd like to help hits, for I love him. Discouraged Wife." Two Unhappy People * Your husband is a most un- * happy man. From some sense * of inferiority he cannot believe * that you love only him, that it * would never occur to you to be * disloyal, * He doubts his own ability to * hold you, and torments himself * constantly 'with the fear of losing * you. Perhaps, too, because he has * not been able to provide a more * secure life for you. * It is likely that a psychiatrist * could aid him. But I Suggest that * he first consult his doctor. Cer- * tain physical conditions affect our * self-confidence; once they are * cured, we see ourselves and those * who love us in a very different * light. Talk with the doctor first * yourself and explain your hus- * hand's strange insinuations; they * will give him a cue. ' * It is humiliating and heart * breaking to live with a man who * doubts our integrity. It saps mar- * riage of its deepest meanng and * destroys that mutual faith which * is so essential a foundation. * Show your husband, in all the * little ways to know, how much 8 he means to you. Let him feel you * believe in hien with all your heart, * and that you consider yourself * lucky to have married him. Spoil him in ways that will build up his * self-confidence and make him * feel that, no matter how he fails * elsewhere, in his home he rules * as the centre of your family life. * Try this course first, before you ISSUE s1 — 1949 * think too seriously about leaving. * hint, * * * 4' A husband who doubts ills * wife's loyalty is the most miser- s' able of men. If your marriage is * heir -1g spoiled by such suspicions, * tell Anne Hirst about it. Address * her at Box 1, .123 f?,ighteenth Street, New Toronto, Ont. Upside down to prevent peeking. di"/ Sb'N L aarM 9 S 7e 3N /dd i(1ria d"XQ 7 r / 7 6410 6'.L... ? /2/ic/ b4tN06/d 2/2 6'76'" 2 /Nli7 7HSI6' i0 7 f1 7 W a3NI0.5'fr 7 Od/Ox7 ?i 40 Nrl0e Big Difference In Fifty Years The Labour Gazette, published by the Dominion Department of Labor, recently began its fiftieth year of publication. The records of fair -wage con- tracts for the Government work contained in the first issue, dated September, 1900, furnish an inter- esting contrast with those prevail- ing today. It might be noted that the rates quoted are per day, not per hour: Ordinary laborers received $].25 to $1.50 for a day of nine or 10 hours; electricians and carpenters, $1.50 to $2; plumbers, $2.25 to $2.50, and bricklayers, $2.50 to $3. Stonecutters topped the list with a daily wage of $4 50. Try DOLCIN Tablets for prompt. relief from ARTHRITIC and RI:1W MATIC pain ...Try DOLCIN .. . get a bottle of 100 or 500 tablets from your druggist TODAY and join the thousands of reliev�,l sufferers who by taking DOLGA have come out from under tl+ shadow of Pain .. Most druggists carry DOLCII. If yours does not, write direct to DOLCIN LIMITED Toronto IL® Ontario CRU as •i Y' 14 1i ' IStlitA4 l fOrgi ACTS FAST! STAYf50Sti COFFEE CAKE Recipe Measure into bowl, 34 cup lukewarm water, 1 teaspoon granulated' sugar; stir until sugar is dissolved. Sprinkle with 1 envelope Fleischmann's Royal Fast Rising Dry Yeast. Let stand 10 minutes, THEN stir well. Scald 3a cup milk • and stir in 34 cup granulated sugar, 34 teaspoon salt, 3 tablespoons shortening; cool to lukewarm. Beat in 1 cup once -sifted bread flour. Add yeast mixture and 1 beaten ucfebxn cps one-idreadflou Knead lightly; place in greased ' bowl and brush top with melted butter or shortening. Cover and set in warm place, free from draught. Let rise until doubled in bulk. Punch down dough and divide into 2 equal portions; form into smooth balls. Roll each piece into an oblong and fit into eased (xresse tops, about 7" x 11". until doubled in bulk lPierrce tops with fork and brush with 2 tablespoons melted butter or shortening. Combine 342 cup brown sugar (lightly presse down), 34 cup flour,'ria cup fine 1ry cake teaspoon or lcinnamon; rub and 4 tablespoons butter or ehort- sning. Sprinkle crumble on top of cakes. Let rise about hour. Bake in hot oven, 400% about 20 minutes. Serve hot, with butter. Busy, !Busy, Busy -•-- Never a wasted moment for Susan Gail, nide-month-old daughter of Mr. and Mrs. David Katz. Susan ill 'files and guzzles at the same time, presenting a picture of perrevt contentment. New Fast-Actinsi Dry Yeast Needs NO Refrigeration! Stays fresh and full-strength on your pantry shelf for weeks! Here's all you do: in a small amount (usually specified) of lukewarm water, dia. solve thoroughly 1 teaspoon sugar for each envelope of yeast; Sprinkle with dry yeast Let stand 10 minutes. rHEN stir well. (The water used with the yeast counts its part of the total tiqutd called for in your recipe.)