HomeMy WebLinkAboutZurich Herald, 1953-01-15, Page 2r1bGi411 *A0 .. 0TyfIW11f(f MAITUOG•V4V****11******** **** dA0** ****RwW1 4NNwa'G7 1.1ZAA Cry'—«..—` ..�•--.
Tried To Conquer
Mount Everest Alone
Once again the ice and snow- I
covered summit of Everest, the
weeld.'s highest Mountain, is fac-
ing the challenge of puny man.
AU the world has been watch-
ing the endeavours of two new
expeditions—one Swiss, the other
Pritish--agaiinst the impregnable
peak which, for thirty years
mountaineers have sott
ght to con-
quer in vain.
Each successive expedition has
been better equipped, tougher -
trained and armed with more
high-altitude information than
:Tiny before. Through the years,
repeated assaults on the moun-
tain have written fresh chapters
of highest adventure. And yet
perhaps the strangest -.story has
been almost forgotten — the .dy-
raamic saga of the thirty -five-
year-old Yorkshireman who set
out to conquer Everest single-
handed.
In Bx adford, his home town.
Maurice Wilson often startled
people by telling them 'that if
only they ate less they could live
longer and accomplish almost
:superhuman tasks. And he deter-
mined to climb .Everest to prove
ft
Knowing nothing of mountain-
eering, at first he planned to
erashland a small aeroplane on
theupper slopes and start with
m quick advantage. When he
found this would be impossible
—that the only way up Everest
was the hard way—he rigorously
trained and fasted and even made
as parachute jump to test his
nerve.
Disguised as Priest
Learning to fly, he bought a
:second-hand 'plane. After only
forty hours' flying, the Air Min-
istry got wind of his attempt and
• warned him off. Wilson's answer
was to take off from the airfield
and head south. Watchers on the
ground were horrified to see him
:stagger off the ground with the
wind — instead of into it.
With no practical experience of
navigation, he was missing for
aacveral days. "Funny," he wrote
from Rome, "I am now able to
keep the machine on a straight
•course without looking at the
compass.' Determined to stop
his crazy attempt, the govern-
ment wired ahead for him to
be refused fuel wherever he
:landed. But Wilson borrowed gas-
oline from the British Consul at
P-ahrein so that he could return
to Basra—and still he flew on.
Iib India bis 'plane was. con-
fiscated. Widen' arranged • its re-
lease by agreeing to sell it—
end then came another blow. The
Nepal government refused him
permission to travel through
their territory to Tibet. But Wil-
son had met a Tibetan who prom-
ised to try to smuggle hien
through. disguised as a priest.
In dark glasses, wearing a bro-
cade waistcoat, swathed in red
silk and carrying an umbrella,
Maurice Wilson would have been
sy figure of fun in Bradford. But
police on theTibetan_road scarce-
------
MERRY MENAGERIE
fr'449.Y R+; N.A.
,, dl(j iws I..aa
Illi WAS a tittle iatoetartieg south
silica year!"
y glanced at him '4 he%, he ,
passed patrols, Wilson raised` his
umbrella and walked `with. bent
knees to camouflage his height.
One in Tibet, Wilson abandon-
ed his disguise .nd went for-
ward hi European-eletlies:
Bread and Porridge
Then, on April 27th, 1934, he
camped with his two Sherpa
porters on the Rongbuk glacier,
that windswept waste 20,400
feet up. The foilovsipg day he
was at Camp IT, the second base
established by the. 1,922'ihd. 1924
expeditions, "the locality litter-
ed with jam labels,"; as he re-
ported. But above him now there
towered the last vengeful 8,000
feet—and Wilson meant to. hon -
quer it alone an brown' Bread,
tea and porridge,.. as..
Marked out by previous expe-
ditions, Camp III was only 600
feet 'above the second,' but so
devious was the climbing route
that it entailech another'venture-
some six miles. Wilson noted with
pride in his dairy that • he was
exceptionally fit, no fat, all
muscle." Yet • every breath- was
now a labour, continuous thirst
made him eat snow and ice..
Porters Exhausted
After six days he still had not
reached the blizzard -swept Camp
III and hedecided to .qrn back.
"If I stumbed, I"just had to let
myself go, roll over, and scram-
ble up • again," he wrote. Back at
base, however, the circul.ation
returned to his frozen" feet—al-
though the fierce impact of the
ultra -violet, rays at ;that., high
altitude gave him a swollen face
and nearly closed his . eyes.
But by May 1.2th he had re-
covered. The two portprs agreed
to accompany him to' Catnp
so that he could again•make a
higher climb solo. The three-day
struggle exhausted • the porters,.
but Wilson was still fit. Camp
III was safely reached. Then for
a week wild blizzards swept the
little tent.
On May 21st he. started again,
with one porter to accompany
him halfway to Camp IV. Atthe
avalanche - haunted, crevasse
pocked North Col, ..the porter.
turned back. Wilson: Was now on
his own, but he recorded in his
diary the ghostly impressions
shared by other Everest climbers.
"Strange," he wrote, "but I feel.
there is somebody with me in
the tent."
Then came else .final effort.- _ ._ .,
Strapped un xis"s-""pacTc as a run -,e -4.1, --------,--.
Here are some of the questions
cave mirror, reflecting his pro- lmost frequently asked. by Ines: -
gross to watchers in a monastery: perienced or disappointed cooks,
together with ar swers which
should be of value not only to
them, but -to many other house-
wives, I hope.
a
iEIv.,:. r4 i 'AS
HE holidays always reeah^ rioa`c ,parties, more dinners,; more hos-
'pi.table gatherings fol everyone, '' And this, Ln turn, means more
woxk for the housewne It's':t1re,eNtkaon of the year in which she gets
out her best glassware, 'her fine linens and polishes up her good silver.
]t you're doing a great deal of entertaining this year, you might
- prefer toleave your crystal iatkecterr hlsy -depend upon modern,
moderately priced glassware. The latter will need only reasonable
care to -keel) It 100ct >p;id;sapardt ,,This!tzneart less work for you-.
It also means that you can relax and enjoy your own parties.
To keep your inexpensive glassware shiny and bright•during the
holidays, try these tipsier itilcare:."
Wash it in hot, not boiling, water. And never put glasses that have
just contained ice': straight into hot water. Warm them gradually,
'then give them a quick rinse under the cold, wafer faucet ,They'll
sparkle anew.'
Try adding a small amount of ammonia' or detergent to the water
for a high shine. Then rinse the.glasses in water of equal tempera -
tore and air-dry with the rims' down. If you do use soap, y
ld
towel the glasses dry.
It's, best to place a,r;ubber mater towel in the bottom' of the sink;
giarti•cularly if you're washing stemveare. Never .,crowd either the
.sink or-the.drying reek, 'The rack should be rubber -covered. .If you
fiiaven't a rack, place the glasses rim -down on a towel to dry.
You can clean sticky milk glasses by rinsing them in lukewarm.
water before you wash them, Then use more lukewarm water softened
with soda to remove stubborn stains.
Often, glass 'dishes are. stacked out in the kitchen during the rush
of the holidays. If this happen acrid if the dishes stick, together, don't
try to pry them apart. instead put cold water inthe inner glass and
hold the outer one le warm watch•. :They'll aepat'ate easily.
+M. Chr
W �
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w;; aa. ;ireCifr
Informal table setting Is. very eilodern, is aehleVed With #Tune -stoat'
glassware, ineteensive place "mists and nagpkins.F low 'u , atainerr
•
is z budget -priced basket that can lbav
When .you put, glassware away,, place the different sized pieces, in
rows from front to back of the shelf. This Way you neetronotd bother
to reach over a low piece for a tall one. And
e
when putting It away. Crowding' can cause chipping or breakage.
ea
Dry Run for Ike -Korean police, piasr 'othesmen and security men
line the streets along the road to S'enul's airfield. Citizens thought
the President-elect had .already rived. But this was only a
rehearsal.
far below. Somewhere, within
half -a -mile radius, was Camp
IV and food. But Wilson could
not find it.
For six days he struggled up-
ward, inch by inch. When . he
slept, his light tent parked at an
angle of 35 degrees, he huddled
snow round him for warmle
' His diary grew 'monosyllabic. "No ..
food, no water. Get back. May
26, 27. Stayed in bed."
But with the Iasi flicker of
hope—"Wind • nearly through my
vitals"—the food was found. Off
again," he recorded on May 31st.
"Gorgeous day."
These were Maurice Wilson's
last words. Sixteen months later
the Eric Shipton expedition
found his frozen corpse at 22,000
feet. He had evidently died in
his tent from exhaustion
and then the wind had blown
the tent clear.
The party buried Wilson in a
neighbouring snow crevasse.
"His body passed through the
.snow," wrote Eric Shipton. "It
eeinpletely disappeared. There
was no hole where it fell, just
plain white snow ."
H
4+erocf' fleac6s far?Mr Sic -Fc Uvs,0;5( yasi these ,i'epe setiltations
of (14401s'ands dere or°rs{ saints tsrtd SintT Sr have p1b9ed-their part
flat producing music from the grey - Arps Schnitger orgfrn, irl,the
mnod eg' I S ^?al a` obi Church at''I'l
ti"dmibc +; i1e'+}h"'tr'rfAirths' heeads
.�. t ,, :* ,.::' %t �3t k,I?1:f>k4;$rtf .'-E ' ,1,A';;L5 1 Sacs;...
)ftrrear ` t e most precious examples cif the
ran'• '' alt: to ma s� r one of
ancient organmaker's art still in existence.
B.—My mother was a wonder-
ful cook. I have her recipes but
my biscuits are never flaky and
light and. my pastry is barely
edible. What causes nny poor
products?
A.—Two people using the same
recipe seldom produce the sane
results. Your mother probably
handled her biscuit and pastry
doughs with a very light hand.
You may be tbe athletic type
with a strong right arm and,
although you are kneading the
biscuits thirty seconds as her
recipe directs, your >strength is
so great that half that time would
be right for you. When you use
her pastry recipe, toss the dry in-
gredients up from the bottom of
the bowl with a fork as the
water is added. Then press the
bits of dough into a ball. Don't
knead. Pat the dough out on a
floured board and then roll it
lightly in all directions. Don't
roll back and forth.
4
Q.—What causes a layer or loaf
cake to lump in: the middle anct
sometimes to creek?
A.—Too much flour is usually
the cause of humps and cracks
in crake. Sift the flour once be-
fore measuring, spoon it into a
measuring cup and level it, off
with a straight -edged knife or
spatula. Be sure to use the type
flour indicated in the recipe. Too
hot an oven during the first part
Of the baking periost also• may
cause humps and cracks, A crust
must not form till the leavening
has had tithe to raise the batter
or it will rthe more in the centre
where the crust is tender.
4 , 4 .
(1. -.-What makes , cake close
grained and heavy?
A. --Heaviness is usually the re-
sult of overstfrring or beating
the batter. It is mor e apt to occur
whet an electrie beater is' ,used,
Unless the cake is a very rich
one the batter 'shcal.d'be stirred
after each addition of dry said
liquid ingredients only until Well'
blended And sinedth. "Using
moderately slow speed it a mixer
prevents over -beating, Heaviness
also may be caused by to much
sugar; shortening et liquid' or too
little leavening.
q-Eeeipea .foretspoingo end
ngel. cake ' always call tar urr+
greased pans.. Wouldn't it•be: bet*,
ter to grease pans so the cake
rcwouldfail out on cooling/
A. Sponge and angel cakes
*liquid, not be baked. in greased
pans. The. batter, which is large-
ly beaten egg, whites, is too de-
licate to .gold up and give a
cake of full volume without the
support of the ungreased pan to
which it clings during baking
and cooling..A tube pan with a
removable bottorn facilitates re-
inoaral of thecake.
w w a
Q.—What causes a sponge or
angel cake to have a coarse grain
andoccasional large holes?
A.—Usually a coarse grain is
caused by underbeating the egg
whites or not thoroughly folding
them into the batter,' The large
holes come from folding air into
the batter as it is poured into
the pan, After the pan has been
filled, cutting through the batter
with a spatula will break the
air bubbles and eliminate the
holes...
Q.—Ban batters fo;: waffles and
griddle eakes be made a .head of
time?
A.—If a double -action baking
powder Is ,used in a batter it
may be stored in the refrigera-
tor for several: hours or perhaps
ft
iso
see
z
•
longer.. This is possible because
a double -action powder releases
only ,about one-third of its leav-
ening wlsen cold; the remaining
two-thirds on baking.
Q,—My daughter will be mar-
ried soon and I want to equip
her kitchen with the best kind
of pans for .cakes, pies 23U
cookies. What would you recom-
mend for each?
A. ---Pans are made of various
materials which affect their bak-
ing use to some extent. A heavy
metal absorbs and retains heat.
Thus, enamel or glass pie pans
help to brawn the under crust
of a pie. This browning would,
be undesirable in a cake or
cookie. Shiny aluminum and
heavy tin reflect the heat and
foods baked in pans of these
metals brown delicately all over.
They are good for all baking and
"_most recipes are written for their
use. If glass. cast Trot or enamel
is employed, the temperature
must be lowered, usually about
25', or the time of baking de-
creased.
1��fc
ra
Says Germ Warfare
Would Not Work
Mention germ warfare in mix-
'Ratty- yob c ]utast
see your ' listeners' scalp's tingle.
They conjure up vision's of sin-
ister missiles, more deadly even
than a hydrogen bomb, raining
down silently and .turning cities
into ghost towns, with them-
selves and their families, friends,
and neighbours, all lying dead
in the streets.
Yet, the frightening idea that
vast areas could be depopulated
by germs dropped from the air
is really ridiculous. It's perfect-
ly true that as little as a tea-
spoonful of a particular bacteria
could fatally -infect every member
of the British Isles. But the
germs in question would leave to,
be properly portioned out.
And fortunately for all con-
cerned— the very germs which
might wreak most havoc would
not themselves be tough enough
to stand warfare conditions.
Contrary to general belief,
germ warfare is nothing new. It
was first tried in the fourteenth
century, when the Tartars swept
across Europe from Russia and,
in an attempt to overcome resis-
tance at Cafta, hurled corpses and
dying victims of the bubonic
plague over the city's walls.
In World War 1 the Germans
tried to introduce cholera into
it
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Italy. Later, • they inoculated
horses with glanders and set them
free to mingle with horse-drawn
unite of .the Allies. As recently
as 1942, after 165 Chinese deaths,..
China accused japan of dropping
infected rice and clothing from
a "plane. '
But it's extremely improbable
that epidemics on a' large scale
could be started by germ war-
fare. As the . U.S: journal "To
fare. As an American jour-
nal "To - day's Health" points
out, t b e r e are no : known
germs which could be .lib-,
erated as free agents and be ex
peeted to create a widespread .•
pestilence. When subjected to
the rigours of warfare they would
expire long before they could do
their dirty work.
There's' one other comforting
factor. •Simply • this. It would
hardly profit any nation to con-
quer another with, say, typhus
or even . foot-and-mouth.
For the' victorious race would
soon find the disease knocking at
its own doctor.
Pestilence is no.. respecter of
boundaries.
Belle Rings Bell -Getting ready
to ring out a very merry Christ•
mas for everybody,' this pretty
Christmas fairy smiles through
the ribbons she will yank to send
us the season's greetings bright
and early :Christmas morning.
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