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HomeMy WebLinkAboutZurich Herald, 1956-12-06, Page 6• Terror Turned e an Oki Flayed by the bitter, Early :morning wind, two men lay huddled on the upper slopes of 26, -620 -foot Nanga Parbat, the Ilimalayan "mountain off terror," 'which had already claimed the lives of thirty-one would-be conquerors, Herman Buhl, an Austrian mountaineer, nudged his reluc- tant fellow -climber, Otto Kemp- ler. "Otto" Buhl pleaded, `.haven't you got any will -power? To -clay of ell days—when everything's set - and we're going for the summit"" A mumble from the sleeping - bag: "Not me --I ain't got none" So Buhl shouldered his pack and„ gear and set off alone, thinking Otto would catch up with him later; It was another four miles of struggling over unknown snow and ice ridges to the top, and with no oxygen to help. Up, up he trudged until he came to a huge snow wall the size of a block of buildings, a colo^sal cornice structure. Here, In 1937, an expedition had ended In a shattering tragedy when an ice avalanche buried Carl Wien and his comrades. A sense of desolation swept over Buhl. But he must not think of death or horror, up here alone. As the sun grew nnberably hot it parched his body, lay on him like a ton load. He found it terrilaly difficult to make pro- gress, breathed five times to each step he took, sat down and tried to eat, but couldn't swal- low, so forced his way on and un over the rim of the summit plateau. Buhl, thoroughly exhausted, nnw lay in the snow face down nn his rucksack, panting. This looked like the end. Far off he could see a dot—Otto. How gladly he would have had him with him now! But the dot didn't move. Otto seemed to have even up. Buhl couldn't wait. e must go on alone. His description of the rest of the climb in his dramatic book, "Nanga Par bat Pilgrimage" translated by Hugh Merrick, is one of the finest epics of endur- ance ever penned. At 25,658 feet, In the gap between the subsidiary and main summits, be collapsed on the snow, again exhausted. Hunger racked him, thirst tortured. him. He swal- lowed two energizinz tablets to i000st his failing powers. On his feet again, he clam- bered along an enormouse chain f cornices, then had to . face a ,harp rock -ridge of saw-toothed crags, dominated by towers of snow and ice -covered rock. And 17,000 below him was the awe- olne Rupal Nullah, a deep rav- e. But it hardly affected him, sto apathetic had he become. Whenever he looked at the summit ahead it looked no near- s er, so he decided to fix his eyes on some point only a few yards oft . . the next ledge, next spike on the ridge, and no far- ther ahead until he got there. That way he kept going. Nearing the top at last, he crossed some gullies and short patches of snow, stumbling over boulders to the foot of the sum- mit structure. The highest thing lie could see was a projecting rock. How far now? Had he the strength? He could no longer stand upright, he was a wreck. Slowly he craw- led forward on all fours, nearer the rocky spur, and to his joy and relief saw nothing but a little crest, a short snow slope. He was on the summit. Every- thing fell away on all sides. He was the first human being to get there. It was 7 p.m. It had taken him seventeen hours since leaving Otto. "But I felt no wave of over- mastering joy, no wish to shout aloud, no sense of victorous ex- altation . . . I was absolutely all in. Utterly worn out, I fell on the snow and stuck my ice - axe upright on the hard -beaten snow ... took the Tyrolese pen- nant out of my anorak and tied it to the shaft,.." Then he took photographs foie documentary evidence. The sky was cloudless, but immediately the sun went down behinda mountain range the cold became penetrating. After about half an hour he took a last look back, turned, and began the descent. But his terrific ordeal was by no means over. On the way down he was startled to feel something loose and wobbly on his left foot, and saw the strap -fasten- ing of his crampon— spiked climbing aid—disappear below him. Then the crampon came off the boot. He grabbed it just in time, then 'stood on one leg, with two ski -sticks as his only support. He tried to scrape a shallow dent in the frozen. snow with the points of the sticks to give his smooth boot sole a moment's hold while he moved the cramponed foot a farther on. In this way he man- aged somehow to balance from one snow -rib to another. As darkness came daviin, he searched frantically for aelserch, found a stance with just ',room for both feet thougII ' toes small to permit sitting, and i e lazed that he would have to spend the night in that perilous position standing tip. He put on every- thing he had, his woolly well over his ears, his balaclava well down over his head, and two pairs of gloves. He had the slanting rock face as back -rest. "I was amazingly relaxed," he says. "I almost faced that night at 26,000 feet with complete equanimity." Buhl swallowed another drug to stimulate circulation and protect him against frostbite. His left hand clutched the pre- cious ski -sticks, his right a solitary hold. Utters head weariness kept overcame him, falling forwards, his eyelids felt like lead, he could hardly stay upright, he dozed off, woke with a start .. . The intense cold grew more unbearable. He felt it on his face, . hands, feet, body. His feet went dead. The night drag- ged on; it was like eternity. At last . , . dawn. "During those hours of ex- treme tension I had an extra- ordinary feeling that I was not alone. I had a partner with me, looking after me ." he says, Moving into a gully, he removed his gloves, couldn't find them. "Have you seen my gloves?" he asked his ghostly companion, and heard quite clearly the ans- wer: "You've lost them." When, after forty-one hours' lone or- deal, he at last regained his team he was a drawn, haggard, old man — at twenty-nine — as a photograph of him taken by a colleague shows only too clearly. Climbs in his native Tyrol, the Dolomites and Alps .complete the magnificent story of an in- trepid mountaineer who was so weak as a child that he had to be kept from school a year be- yond the' normal time! THE EASY WAY Placing a steeplejack and equipment on file of a smokestack more than 300 feet high is easy if you .use e helicopter. With the aid of extensions of skid landing gear, a Bell helicopter deftly lands on top the chimney by straddling it and putting steeplejack and equipment on the job. When repairs were completed, the helicopterreturned to bring the worker back to earth. A gastric ulcer is something you get if you go mountain- climbing over mole hills. SALLY'S SALLIES '1Joe't be so fussy, sirs Just cram it int" HOOT, MON! IT'S ELVIS—Not THE Elvis, though both strum guitars. Pvt. T. Ellwood has been dubbed "ESut"eby High- landers. his com- rades. He is a member of the Argy le The musical soldier is shown at Southampton, Eng- land, boarding a troopship bound for the Mediterranean. n ,r e , "sett' imealefereeerease A c lam Amittew5- In the minds of most men cheese is associated closely with apple pie. If you'd like to go a step further than serving the cheese in wedges, try this recipe for cheese mixed right into the crust. APPLE PIE WITH CHEESE CRUST 2/ cups flour 1 teaspoon salt 5 tablespoons cold water 1 5 -ounce jar pasteurized, processed cheese spread cup cooking oil 312 cups cooked or canned sliced apples 3/4 cup sugar 2 tablespoons flour 1,4 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon cinnamon 1A teaspoon nutmeg 2 tablespoons butter Sift together the flour and salt. Add water gradually to the cheese spread, blending until smooth after each addition. Add oil and beat until -well blended. Add to flour mixture. Toss and mix with fork. Form dough into ball; divide in half. Before roll- ing, shape each half into a flat round, making top and edges smooth. Roll out one round be- tween two 12 -inch squares of waxed paper. If bottom paper wrinkes, turn and roll on other side. Remove top sheet and in- vert pastry over a 9 -inch pan, peel off paper; fit pastry into pan. Combine apples, sugar, 2 tablespoons flour, salt, cinna- mon, and nutmeg. Fillthe pastry -lined pie pan. Dot filling with butter. Roll second piece of pastry; cut gashes for escape of steam and place over apples. Seal edges. Bake at 400° F. for 40 minutes, or until done. Lemon pie is also a great favorite and here is a recipe that your entire family, will praise. MAGIC LEMON PIE 1 8 -inch pie shell or crumb crust 1 can (11/2 cups) sweetened condensed milk 2 egg yolks, well beaten 1/2 cup fresh lemon juice 2 tablespoons sugar 1 tablespoon grated Iemon peel Stir all ingredients together well. The filling will thicken as though cooked. Pour into baked pastry shell. Spread meringue over pie. Bake at 350° F. 15-20 minutes until ,golden brown. Cool away from drafts. MERINGUE 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice 2 egg whites 4 tablespoons Sugar Beat egg whites and lenion juice together until soft peaks form. Add sugar gradually. beating until meringue holds in firm glossy peaks. salt, and cinnamon. Stir in rai- sins and turn into pastry -lined pie pan with high, fluted edges. Bake at 425° F. 15 minutes. Re- duce heat to 325° F. and bake 20 -25 -minutes longer, until fill- ing is set in center. Remove from oven and sperad meringue in swirls over top. Bake at 325° F. for 15-20 minutes longer un- til lightly browned. Cool be- fore cutting. Meringue: Beat the 3 egg whites until foamy. Add 3/4 tea- spoon cream of tartar, and beat until barely stiff. Add 6 table- spoons sugar, 1 tablespoon at a time, beating well after each addition. PUMPKIN PIE / cup sugar 1 teaspoon cinnamon 3/4 teaspoon mixed spices (nut- meg, mace, cloves, ginger) 1/ cup dry milk (whole or non-fat) Y2 teaspoon salt • VA cups mashed cooked or canned pumpkin 2 eggs, slightly beaten 1 cup water or fluid milk 2 tablespoons melted fat 1 unbaked 9 -inch pie shell Combine all dry ingredients;, add pumpkin gradually to the dry mixture, stirring until smooth. Add eggs, liquids, and fat. Pour into pie shell and bake at 425° F. until set—about 35 minutes. Serve hot or cold, as you wish. - :8 * ,i • The tang of sour cream and mice with the sweetness of rad- sins make custard raisin me- ringue . pie a special favorite now just ass it was in grand- mother's day. Try this pie for a "company" dessert. RAISIN MERINGIM PIE 1 oup light or dark raisins 3 egg yolks Mt cup milk 1 cup commercial sour cream 3/4 cup sugar 1/4 teaspoon salt r/s teaspoon cinnamon Pastry for sine., 8 -inch crust Rinse and drain raisins., Sep- arate eggs and beat yolks light- ly. Blend in milk, dam, sugar, 141, Hord YYI Like A Paper Dress? Disposable paper garments -..he the use of research workers gra atomic laboratories were devel- oped some time ago by the Kim- berly - Clark Corporation but these are just the first step into a new field. The next will be paper dresses, slips, bathing suits, rain capes, and wlio knave what else for everybody to wear Many plant workers in mills are already 'wearing paper work clothes and some of the girls in the offices enjoy wearing paper dresses and skirts. They are either printed or painted in in- teresting designs and have a crispness which does not • gilt with wearing. The paper material is non- woven, formed by laminating several piles of high wet -strength cellulose wadding to each side of a web of crosslaid threads of rayon, nylon, or glass, held to. Fether by an adhesive. In making this wadding, some of the im- portant special features are built in, such as resistance to wrink- ling, scuffing, linting, and also desirable . draping qualities. The word "wadding" does'n't strike a high-fashion note, but whereas Kimberly-Clark is now devoting itself chiefly to pro- viding this paper "fabric" for special laboratory uses, it has an eye on far more glamorous pos- sibilities. About the only "paper" char- acteristic of this product is that it cuts like paper. But it sews like cloth. However, it needn't be sewed, but can be glued to- gether or fastened by a heat - sealing process. Just imagine cutting out a new dress like one for a paper doll, pressing the seams together with a hot iron, painting on a few posies and dancing off to a party in it. But so far paper is not available in the yard -goods section of de- partment stores. The garments produced in the research laboratories are not only water-resistant but also burn -resistant, and some can be washed and reused a time or two. The cost .of such a new gown would probably be about M. And think what a variety one could have! The idea stirs the imagination. , Want a new dress? Chuck the old one in the wastebasket and get out the scissors and the iron. There'll be nothing to it not even much expense. This is all in the realm of pos- sibility but not of availability -- anyway not yet. EASY WINNER "We had a kind of drinking competition at the club last nigh, dear'" "So I gathered. Who • came second?" Penguin Proves Expensive Pet When schoolboy Errol Berry found an injured penguin ly- ing -weak and gasping on a quay of Cape Town docks, he took him home and bathed the deep red wounds in the bird's- white waistcoat. Three days later Errol had to raid his moneybox to pay for fish for his Antarctic house guest The bird begar. gobbling up 8 lb. per day, scorning salt cod and insisting . on fresh fish. And when Errol's parents re- fused to pay for further ra- tions, the boy sadly took the penguin and .set' hind free. The bird swa-m around, fish- , ing voraciously. But when .he had finished his thea] he swam back to the schoolboy! To -day, Errol • is 'gaining wide- spread publicity as the school- boy with the world's strangest pet. SnaptSv. as he calls his pen - gulp, travels with him on buses sleeps stretched flat ,.out in a shed in the garden, and is very intelligent. A pencuin eats almost his own weight in fish a day, and soon he could not find sufficient food offshore. For Snappy's own good, Errol decided ..to release him — and relinquish him — far ou,t at sea. For two months the boy saw nothing of his friend, Then he heard of a pen-• Main which hadViciously landed on the beach, peck.ng Viciousl atany- one who dared to app It was Snappy, waitieg for him at the very, rock where they used to swim and fish to- gether. As 'soon as the bird saw the boy he waddled ttp and set- tled cosily under his arm, Now a trawling company spe- cially sets aside hauls of fish for Snappy, Occasionally, the bird goes to sea. for a week or two, but always returns, await- ing his master at heir usual rendeevoue MEDITERRANEAN SEA SUEZ CANAL • CAIRO PORT SAID ABU AW5IGi1.A e) ISMAILIA 1NDh1' , 00 jJs IN BY REV R. BARC;l.AY WARREN, B.A.. i',D. Quantiles of a !fill dIstian Matthew bell Memory SSelectee:rat lliles,sed are they wbich do 'hanger and thirst alter righteiralfslraess: for tlfaey sliailt be Mile& Matthew S:E.. The beatitudes olio the , opening part of our Lord's Ser- mon on the Mount, Be gave this message in the early part of his ministry. It might be called his manifesto. • 'Blessed' means 'happy.' Billy Graham's book of scrinons on these beatitudes ie well called, The Secret of `happiness. Everyone wants:happiness in this life but comparatively few are finding it.• Isaiah asked, "'Wherefore do ye spend money for that which :is rot bread? and your labour for that which satisfieth not? Millions of dol- lars are spent each month in. the vain pursuit of happiness. Actually, if we retake happiness the object and goal of our life we will miss it. . But if we turn from our sins and let Jesus Christ be Lord and Saviour of our life and follow :on to love and serve Him we shall ex- perience continual happiness. That does not mean • that life: will always be • smooth sailing. But we shall know that we are safe with Christ on board. 'We will have zest fox climbing rug- ged hills when our face is al- ways turned Godward„ We shall. be happy even when" we are re- viled and persecuted. A holy contentment will pervade our lives; not the eontentment of self-satisfaction or stagnation but that which is born of a sturdy faith and a sure con- fidence that God is leading and the end will be glorious. The world's tyrants who strutted for a time didn't real- ize •that to be humble, meek and merciful was the way of happiness, If they had they would have been peacemakers :instead of wax rnougers. They -would have sought righteous- ness and a pure heart. • The greatest riches and hap- piness is available to all. Let us. read the Sermon . on the Mount, Matthew 5-7. Before we can live this life we most be born of -the Spirit 'of God, With a new :heart we will have happiness xto we J.elight to walk in God's way. s,AZA i3A%ft IVRIP Cl APISH 1) SUEZ , E G OULF OF suEz AITIMAN •a JIMUSAIIIM ISRAEL ttU3otuA T\V QRAsELNnOi SINAI PENINSULA ' SAUDI ARABIA CEASE-FIRE IN MIDDLE EAST—Map spots approximate positions of British, French and Israeli forces in the Middle Eriut rifler the cease-fire deadline was reached, • T U RKEY 4leppo Homs 0 Syria fears hrunil attack aimed at outflanking Jor- dan. Country under full mobilization. Of Syria's 30,- 000 regular troops, 20,000 are reported already in Jor- don. Syrian president visits Moscow, rereives (riodge of all "necessary' aid. A ..ISRAEL ; -Tel Aviv `) ` a Amman Jerusalem Errjhrlarl @a Iraq reported eroding h1 i l division of her 'read sfnnuf h of three into lotion friths taking up border In ifir'; opposite S U D t A R A$ I A of MILS AI€til X00 ARABS 1=EAR ATTACK= -Iraq, Syria and Jordan !'ear bent brought into the Middle East fiuhting by an attatak t'Icm Israel, illustrated on Newsmap above, ,Jordan fears n trued assault` from the Jerusalem area, Russia Is strengthenina ties with Syria, may offer help if hostilities break out. Saudi Arabia has broken diplcmatic relations with Frarce and i;~ait in anti has dispatched troops to Jorcicrr\