Loading...
HomeMy WebLinkAboutZurich Herald, 1919-10-10, Page 3GROWTH OF WOODEN HEEL INDUSTRY FRENCH HEELS ARE MADE OF HARD MAPLE. Interesting Process of Manufacture From Block of Wood to the Finished Article. The word shoes naturally brings to Mind leather, but there are made now- adays great numbers of women's slip- pers, pumps and shots desigeecl for house and for dress wear that are made with uppers of silk, satan, vel- vet and cloth, as well as •of kid, calf and fine leathers and which have wooden heels. These wooden heels cost less to make than leather heels, but they are put on the finest as well as the less expensive shoes because they are lighter than leather heels of the same size, because in the tall, slender shapes, and especially in the high, narrow -necked French heels, they stand up better under weight, and be- cause, being rigid, the covering on them remains smooth and perfect. Shaping the l -bel. These wooden heels are made of hard maple. First a block is groved, put in a machine that cuts in that part of it that faces the sole of the shoe under the instep, the little incurving sweep that gives the heel grace there, and then the block goes into a mould- ing machine that cuts it into -heel shape. The knives in this machine 'work rapidly and smoothly, and as the heel comes out it may seem perfectly smooth and finished and ready to be covered, as it is if the material to be used in the covering is comparatively thick, but if the heel has an extension in front under the instep it goes to a scouring machine to be finished on that extending part, and if it is to be covered with silk or satin, very thin material, the entire heel is polished on a buffer to a perfect silky smooth- ness The heel is bored and plugged to re -enforce and strengthen it, and then, finished in the wood, is ready to be covered. Many materials are used. in cover- ing wooden heels, and they may be used in. almost endless variety of colors or shades. Some shoe manu- facturers buy the wooden heels and cover them in their own, factories; some have wooden heel manufacturers cover and finish the heels completely, sending the covering materials, cut or not cut, as the case may be, and re- ceiving from them heels ready to go on the shoe. And wooden heels are commonly made to order, for they are required of many sizes and of many shapes, with the fashions always changing. Applying the Covering. The coverings are cut out by hand, though they are knife cut, many at a time, but each cover must be stretched or glued to each heel by hand. Then there is glued into the grove of the heel, completely covering that surface, a piece of split leather of precisely the color and. also of the salve style of finish as that of the bottom of the shoe, which the groove faces, and now there is nailed to the bottom of the heel a thickness of leather like a layer on any heel, The leather protects the wood from wear, kills the sound that the . wood would otherwise make in walking, and also protects the lower edge. The trim little semicircles of tiny brass nails that are seen in the heels are really pieces of bra's wire, sec- tions from a coil of `wire carried on a machine which thru$ts the end of the wire through the leather, and into tho wood. It then cuts off the wire and drives the next nail in„the same man- ner, and so around. From this the heel goes to a trim- ming machine. The leather may pro- ject a trifle beyond the heel's cover- ing. It must be made so that its edge Surface is absolutely smooth and flush with the covering. This Is done in the trimming machine, and then the edge of the leather is colored as leath- er edges commonly are, usually either red, leather colored or black. The heel next proceeds to a buffer on which the bottom of the leather is smoothed and polished. Then it may be colored artificially, or if it is not to be colored the bottom of theleather May be finished with a velvet finish. The finish, whatever it may be, is made to be in accordance with the Jinish. of the sole or the shoe on which it is to go, and with the final finishing of the leather the heel is completed. ` Through the latter process the heel )las been handled with its coverings pn and this may be 'of some delicate naterial or color. So now they are in- peoted and finally peeked in cartoons. dozen pairs of heels to thejbox, and ere ready for the shoe manufacturer, It Is stated that 25 per cent. of the women's shoes worn in North America 0,re now made with Wooden heels, of Which there are produced millions of pairs annually. "Here's my idea of a razor --- one that sharpens its own blades” "Why, I remember when I used to have to throw away a blade after a couple of shaves. Now, I simply take it and give a few turns on. the strop and it's as good as ever. "I can shave in three minutes; and my face is as smooth and slick and comfortable as when the head barber used to go over it. To clean, I simply put the blade under the tap and wipe it off. There's no taking the razor to pieces and messing arr'bund with parts. In fact, the whole thing is so simple and easy, I wish I had had one long ago." Razor — Strop -- 12 blades — $S AVTOSTROP SAFETY RAZOR CO., Limited AutoStrop Building, Toronto, Canada 9 FASHIONABLE lCOSTUMES 0 8i9i 4IoI9 No. 8791—Ladies' Semi -Fitted Dress. Price, 25 cents. Minaret tunic, in one piece; one- piece foundation lengthened by straight section; instep length. Cut in 6 sizes, 34, 86, 38, 40, 42 and 44 ins. bust measure. Size 36, waist, tunic, 3% yds. 86 ins. wide, or 21/4. yds. 54 ins. wide; contrasting, 23 yds. 36 ins. wide; one material, 4% yds. 36 ins. wide, or 31 yds. 54 ins. wide. Width around bottom, 1% yds. No. 9019—Ladies' Dress. Price, 25 cents. Closing side -front and on shoulder; instep or shorter length. Cut in 7 sizes, 34 to 46 ins. bust. Size 86, one 1 material, with revers, instep length, Fb "I 59 8x/a yds. 54 ins. wide; dress, 3% yds. �,llVD D OF FIGS' t1 40 ins. wide; revers, belt, 11/4 yds. 40 ins. wide; front and back of dress,. instep length, 1% yds. 54 ins. wide; "collar,,side-back and front, belt, short sleeves, 11/4 yds. 80 ins, wide. Width, 1'/z yds. These patterns may be obtained from your local McCall dealer, or from the MeCall Co., 70 Bond St:, Toronto, Department W. Minard's Liniment Cures Burns. oto. Sentry Go. True lad who shared the guard with me That night of whirling snow, What other nights have brohght to - you I shall not know. I never even heard your name And hardly saw your face, Yet you poured out your heart to me As we kept pace. I know not if you're living still, Or fallen in the fight: But Lit niy heart your heart is safe Till the last night. ' MONEY ORDERS. When ordering goods by mail send a Dominion Express Money Order. Wifely Amenities. That there are two sides to every case this brief bit of conversation from an English contemporary re- veals: "Will tells me that he leads a dog's life," said Will's mother to Will's wife, "Yes, that's so," answered Will's wife., "I -Ie comes in with muddy i'eet, makes himself comfortable by the fire, growls, and waits to be fed." Minard's Liniment Relieves Neuralgia. Fustic Wood, For many years manufacturers have used fustic dye for coloring yellow, and with the appropriate mordants for brown, olive and green. A contributor to the Bulletin of the Pan-American Union says that during the war the dye was in great demand for coloring the cloth of uniforms and of army tents. The dye comes from a tropical tree technically known as Chlorophora tinctoria, that grows abundantly in the lowlands of Mexico from Tampico southward, and less abundantly in all of Central America. It is a tree of medium size that rarely reaches siety- five feet in height and thirty inches izl• diameter. -. Transportation is the most difficult part of marketing the trees. The tracts where the wood grows are us- ually without roads, and the logs have to be hauled over the roughest ground to the rivers. Before the war the wood was cut, hauled and delivered to the side of the ship for about eight dollars a ton, and was sold in New York at prices ranging from twenty- five dollars a ton. During the war fus- tic wood sold for fifty dollars a ton. The wood is imported in the form of short logs with the sapwood removed; only the heartwood has the coloring matter. Before it can be used it has to be ground to a powder, and in that form it readily dissolves in water. A dilute solution gives a light yellow, and the addition of acid makes the color still lighter. The use of metal- lic salt adds a greenish tint, Tommy Understood. "Yes," said the Sunday -school teach- er, "when Delilah cut Samson's hair he Iost all his courage and strength, and became mild as a Iamb. Can you understand that?" "Well, ma'am," replied Tommy, "it does make yer feel 'shamed when a woman cuts yer hair.: " Romance Nearer Home. Lady—"How romantic you must have found the vines of France, the olives of Italy, the oranges and citrons of Palestine." Demobilized Cockney — "Not me. Give me the cocoanuts of 'Amstead every time." al—"it9r—'1®CIpl I® &I=11 RI MI I® I I I 1 1 When Your Nerves Cry ,, nut It may iSe from tea or coffee. Then thin! of the healthful, satin` ri' '''qualities of T.R. 5Si a - ' `'?:STU Dn,Lww 1xCi s';, t 06 ft'om i r'Ve , is'tur-«,Y ing in redients. Economical. :'co o cal. Try'a:,4t1 l'f1?Orn your'Grocer: iia ,e-: .I. • CHILD'S LAXATIVE Look at tongue! Remove poi- sons from little stomach, liver and bowels Accept "California" Syrup of Figs only—look for the name California on the package, then you are sure your child is having the best and most harmless laxative or physic for the little stomach, liver and bowels. Child- ren love its delicious fruity taste. Full,directions for child's dose on each bottle. Give it without fear. 'Mother! You must say "California." -.HOW LONG CAN THEY DO IT? There is in Canada current opinion that it costs the Government $1.03 to get $1 of gross revenue from the rail- roads which have been emancipated from the capitalistic class. A deficit of 450,000,000 in 1919 is the forecast. This straightway gives rise to conjec- ture as to what the true relation of cost and revenue would be if some •courageous Administration reached down to the bottom of our own Gov- ernment operation of the roads. Thanks in part to the peculiarities of the Canadian situation the private Grand Trunk and Canadian Pacific have contributed nobly to the Govern- ment's experiment in railroad opera- tion. This and other causes have steadily lifted the percentage of cost to gross revenue. To -day it is 89 per cent. for the Grand Trunk and 81 per cent:' for the Canadian Pacific. ' The percentage thus actually discloses the re.nooking scandal of surplus, rather i ? e.,_uplifting inspiration of de - licit, Monthly statements duly audited and certified show Canadian Pacific and Grand Trunk can still operate on their own motive power; the exact status of the Government roads is not so clearly revealed. Why it is not is a matter of conjecture, friendly, in- vidious, or neutral, as may be. Seine irreconcilables want to know how they are to 'reach a conclusive audit of Canadian Northern, snaking a true capital investment basis for figures. Others say there is an operation defi- cit of more than three per cent. What if it be so that the more wheels turn round and the faster they go, the mere money they lose? If it costs 3 cents net loss to take in a dol- lar, isn't the taxpayer there to pay it? And doesn't the paltry 3 cents go at once back into circulation? "As long as he has a dollar left to burn, why shouldn't the taxpayer writhe and turn?" A staunch supporter of a western co-operative grain concern with a long and honorable record of losses used to refer to its "turnover" as its "turn - under." Happily free of the embar- rassment of literary cult, he has given the Government's railroad auditors a book heading, accurate and novel. They should be satisfied and so should the taxpayers. For as a facetious in- quirer for Government figures says: "If a taxpayer is not to pay these taxes, what is he for?" But how long can they do it?—Wall Street Sour/eel. The Retort Crisp, After a grand review of the German troops at Potsdam some years ago the Kaiser called out to the officer com- manding the Prussian Guard in a voice loud enough to be heard by all the dis- tinguished guests who were grouped in front of the palace: "Pick inc out a hundred seen from the Prussian Guard." Then; taking the arm of Bing Ed- ward VII., who was there, he said: "Conte with me." He escorted King Edward very delicately round the hundred men, and then said banteringly: "Well, do you think you could find a hundred men in England to beat thous?" "X don't know so much about that," promptly replied the late Xing, "but I could easily find 50 who would try," Queen :Elizabeth, of Belgium, is 43 years of age, and is one of the most talented of women. A touch of oil at the binged points of umbrella rods will prevent the rusting and breaking of the small wires that 'bold the ribs together.. .4SSUE No. 41--.'13. Speedy Pigeons. In calm weather a carrier pigeon can fly at the rate of 1,200 yards a minute; with the help ,of a znoderate wind it will attain a speed of 1,540 yards; and before a strong wind 2,000 yards, Minard's Liniment Co., Limited. Gents,—A customer of ours cured a very bad case of distemper in a valu. able horse by the use of MINARD'S LINIMENT. Yours truly, VILANDIE FRERES. Cleanliness in the poultry runs is absolutely essential for best growth in the chicks. Too often the yards are overcrowded and are allowed to get bare. Cultivate soil, grow green food, and provide plenty of shade. ••,Y,.•..•..Y•.a.w•.••n.• DEWS No More.. "Cascarets" Liver, It is just as gerous to take tics. Nature sorbers for against calomel, oil and salts. lief without injury Biliousness, Sick Headache. you sleep, removing and sour, indigestible griping or inconvenience. regulate by muscles. They y V a • r.Y,••••Y-a•„I••G•.•..••b••4j,1 . OF EVE a f Gentle Than t for the 1 Bowels I needless as it is dan- violent or nasty cathar- provides no shock -ab- your liver and bowels harsh pills, sickening Cascarets give quick re- from Constipation, Indigestion, Gases and Cascarets work while the toxins, poisons waste without Cascarets strengthening the bowel cost so little too. SINCE ri • x• 30 a 14 sL e h / -hill: 1870pc A s.'1' -81I COUGHS America's Pioneer Bog Remedies Book on DOG DISEASES and Now to !Peed Mailed Free to any Ad - dress by the Author. N. Clay Glover Co., Xao. 118 West 31st Street New York, U.S,A. i li GET SLOAN'S FIR YOUR PAIN RELIEF You don't have to rub it in to get quick, comfort- ing relief Once you've tried it on that stiff joint, sore muscle, sciatic pain, rheu- matic twinge, lame back, you'll find a warns, soothing relief you never thought a liniment could produce. Won't stain the skin, leaves no muss, wastes no time in applying, sure to give quick results, A large bottle means economy. Your own or any other druggist has it. Made in Can- ada, Get it to -day. 35c., 70c., $1.40. zznm weterrXia, ADIES WANTED TO DO PLAIN .tea light sewing at home; whole or Spare time; good pay; woos sent any distance; charges paid. Send stamp for particulars. Stational Manufacturing Company. Montreal. X'OT,S.TOES POE 15.6.LE, (12•IOICi'J NEW ONTARIO POTATOES, ‘.../ ear lots $1,30 bushel, loose. Wire Pronger Bros„ 17ryden, New Ontario. • PON SALE. NTEWSPAI'EIY, WEEKLY, IN BRUCE! County. Splendid opuortunity. Write box T, Wilson Publishing; Co„ Limited. 73 Adelaide St. \V„ Toronto. ELL EQUIPPED NEWSPAPER and job printing plant in Eastern Ontario. Insurance carried $1,500. Will go for $1,200 on quick sale. Box 62, Wilson Publishing Co., Ltd.. Toronto. SXTerealoZ73 VACANT. ARE 'YOU AMBITIOUS? Ib' YOU desire advancement in any situation of life, mental efficiency is what will bring; you success. 'rhe Pelman System of Mind and Memory Training develops latent powers with wonderful results yet it requires but spare moments of study and mental exercise. It matters not where you live for the course Is con- ducted by mail --by confidential corres- pondence. Your request for free book- let, 'Mind and Memory." will bring this and all particulars by return mail. 'Write to -clay. Pelman Institute. 765 Temple 131"dg.. Toronto. 117X!3 CELLAIZE OU S. (1ANCER, TUMORS, LUMPS, ETC.. N.../internal and external. cured without pain by our home treatment. Write ug before too late. Dr. Heilman Medical Co.. Limited, Coliinkwood, Ont. A proposition for insurance against drought and frost for the farmers of southern Alberta is under considera- tion by the executive of the Alberta Association of Municipal Districts. SUFFERING CATS! GIVE THIS MAN THE GOLD MEDAL. 0 o D e 4 0 '4 Let folks step on your feet hereafter; wear shoes a size smaller if you like, for corns will never again send electric sparks of pain through you, according to this Cincinnati authority. He says that a few drops of a drug called freezone, applied directly upon a tender, aching corn, instantly re- lieves soreness, and soon the entire corn, root and all, lifts right out. This drug is a sticky ether com- pound, but dries at once and simply shrivels up the corn without inflaming or even irritating the surrounding tissue. It is claimed that a quarter of an ounce of freezone obtained at any drug store will cost very little but is suf 1. tient to remove every hard or soft corn or callus from one's feet. Cut this out, especially if you are a woman reader who wears high heels. PIMPLES ITCHED A -`l e � E . R`~ED FaceWas Badly Disfigured. Cuticura Soap and Ointment Healed., "Small red pimples and black- heads began on my face, and my face was badly disfigured. e Some of the pimples fes- tered while others scaled over and there were places where the pimples were in blotches. They used to itch and burn terribly. "I saw an advertise- ment for Cuticura and I tried them. They stopped the itching and burn- ing and I used four cakes of Soap and three boxes of Ointment which healed me." (Signed) Miss V. A. Hayne, Stormont, N. S., Dec. 26,'18. The Cuticura Toilet Trio, consisting of Soap, Ointment and Talcum,'promotes skin purity, comfort and health when used for every -day toilet purposes. For Sample Each Freo by Mail, address: "Cuticura, Dopt.A,Boatou,U.S.A" Sold everywhere, — ONLY MARKED "BAYER" ARE ASPIRIN Not Aspirin at All without the "Bayer Cross's For Colds, Pain, Headache, ?yeural- package which contains complete di. gia, Toothache, Earache, and for reetions. Then you are getting real Rheumatism, Lumbago, Soiatica, Neu- Aspirin—the genuine Aspirin pre- ritis, take Aspirin marked with the scribed by physicians for over nine - name "Bayer" or you are not taking teeu years. Now made in Canada. ,aspirin at all. Handy tin boxes containing 12 tab - wept only "Bayer Tablets of lets cost but a few cents. Druggists Aspirit" in an unbroken "Bayer" also sell larger "Bayer" packages. Thom is oxtly+ one Aspirin--"layer"---Iron egoist say "Baae w' Aspirin le tho trade mark (registered is Canada! of Bayer Manui'aettira of lrionc- acetiraeidestcr „f fielicylkacld, while it is wall known that Aspirin means iisyee saaaulacturc, to assist tho public against imitations, the Tablets of Bayer Comp itaiil be ettainroe with teelr general trade mark, the "Bayer Crepe,"