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HomeMy WebLinkAboutThe Herald, 1903-07-17, Page 5...14101M00........1.1111.1100.1.4.1161.011 (Mary Dean.) , heavily stitched, farm a graceful In the toilettes ordered for midsume bertha fon The Sacque influence Is felt in all summer wraps, and in those of an elaborate, • nature this looseness is especially dominant. Superb laces are employed over sil1. and chiffon for coats for the carriage or the stroll during at moment idly through a, country, elub-house. The sleeves of the garment are as wide In proportion as the rest of it, and if there is a collar it is more like o °ape than a collar, so deep and limp and enveloping as it falls, h number of the less expeasive of the loose models are made of soft finished poplin. Shantung pougee gowns, costumes for casino wear and and raw; silk, which uneven texture what net. The more diaphanous their suggeste bothof the former ones. Into these textiles the squarely ftg- ured Greek lanes axe inserted, for everything with a, raaltese pattern Is "Greek" lust now, A. Reception Frock of P.o.ragulay lace, shaded from the softest brown to pale pistache green, wale exceedingly. beautiful. The sense of color, more thanform, wean as haunting as an Ingle in the wood, a, white silk lining supplying the gleam of light needed. another Paraguay laee dress was in dull pink e and whites, with velvet trim- mings in the deepest shade of pink. The new Oriental blues are also seen display white petticoata they are of the most fumy, natere and elabor- In the lace, as well as superb shades of orange, some of waiele border on ;leder trimmed with lace. By a cur- loue contrariness, the wash. plata saffron. coat will go with, a silk and lace The Midsummer Hat gow,n, and the ;silk one with. a wash !rock. The better combination is al- most always neeessary.to preserve a. good efrect, for even the heaviest lin- One are made to haeg limply. Se, un- icee supported by a, &die drop or un- derekirt, the rich braid and embroid- twice whicti embellish these and other stout wash textures would not be seen at timer best. Some beautinUl gowns prepared for the cautelaines of oat -of -town lioeses betray fashion's tenderness for the young matron. The jeune Dale elm wilt tolerate—even tenderly en- duege up, to a polut—ana with the mealle-aged woman elle Is more often launignant than unkind. But for ohm - Wittig lova admiration and a keen appreciation of the duty in hand go to the young married woman if you want to know anything about the etate of Dame Fashion's heart. In the finery in question all the tulle, which black velvet ribbon in arts of this good lady were exhaust- turn bars into loose puffs. Tb.e flow- ed to produce effects at once wo- ere are massed flat on the top in manly and coquettish. One beauti- email flower sprags of single roses ful dinner gown of blue and pink as big as sewers., ., rosebud silk even !suggested a deli- The Summer Veil cote .stateliness for the stiff bo- y, dice, with its light elbow, sleeves and, like the summer glove is mainlto quare neck, ba.d a eourtly flavor, be found on the counters of coned, - whit', tat wore, waning aver a, lane entious shopkeepers. Few women are petticoat, delightfully empliasized. wearing veils at this period, and Tao cut Of this at the bottom, also when, they: do patronize them, it is Leaned to the ancient methods, the either to get something extrava- Short Meeves and loon lialf necks the floor gent aa a drapery. for the hat are worn this season on almost alt with the short, square look of the brim', or 'ele something transpar- garments, and on many thin waists. frill of the 'skirt raeoting patch ad exit and insignificent as a guard for The beauty epeciaelsts approve of the This charming gown, with its open wind blowing locks. Here and there fashion, and predict a great improve- n,powder period. neck and elbow efeevee, afforded ano a meaner girl will garland her hat went in women's throats and neeka ple opportunitg for the Pearl neck- brine with a vivid, scarlet, dram°, an account of it. Notbing Is worse for ;sae aid miniature bracelet, now the elePle, green or ralazarine blue veil the neck than high, tight cooara, rage. of sewing silk variety'. She wears Scraggly and yellowed necks are sure this over a, black maline and che- to be the result of close stocks and Pearl Neckln.ce. Mlle mesh, with the consciousness collage. In order to wear the low - that her beauty is thereby en- necked waste women are patrontz- leanced, but the maid who fears ing the epedalests In throngs this neither sun nor man goes without sewing. and the Mein of the latter peo- face covering, and is recognized as plea is being taxed to repair the rav- ages of peat seasons. the true-blue thing. In the same way the aristocrat of fa Won scorns to cover her hands The Kerchief Kimono. except for the most exacting occa- The ebandkerohief Itimono" Is Mons. During dancing, walking and pretty negligee, and Is not at all ea.oating her tanned eingere defy eriticiem with their beautifully kept hard to make at hoe. Sets of five nano, which are o longer met bordered bandkerchiefs are eold for vtthe purpose. One of these is Ont tainted he formerly, but in a, deep in oval. two in the middle and forms the heart -shaped yoke, the colored bor- --edi • I der placed tet the neck. Another A WORD FOR TIW handkereltief is cut through the cen- tre for the two front pieces, and the POOR BR I DEGROOM third is lett intact for the back of the garment. The remaining handker- chiefs make the sleeveFi. They are sini- (Chicago Chronicle.) ply folded once, the two points join- Bleapeodies on the June bride are, ing. Tee inside eeam Is sewed toge- now ripe and tbe crop is bountiful. theta leaving room for the arm hole, The clear creature, of course, is and the point is laid over the shout - worthy of all the good things, said der and ewed fiat Teis makes a about her. She 16. the lovelerste flowing elbow eileeve. Tile kimono aweetest, most cbarining and alto- may be made of large silk handker- gether moat delightful thing that chiefs' ,joined with beading or lace.— ever came down tbe pike or the oen- Evening Post. r tral Mole of the church. Her very presence is a benedietion and a sug- geatio.n of the piced isles, and her THE GIRL WITH FRIENDS dresses—ab, they are dreams. If you don't believe it, just get into DO, you know bee ? couipany or any .of her girl friende; She 'comes inith the room like a Oa aou won't have the trouble of ask- breeze, fresh, laughing, nodding right Ing aboat it. The June bride Is and left withappy Impartiality. Tho "it" at this, season of the year. She "blues," and tee "doldrums" fly out of is always atop of column next to the window when she comae In. They reading Matter," which, being in- eimplr can't stand her sunny pres- terpretecl, means that she gets Once, 'gays an exclia,nge. e„hotee position, where elle and her She is ready for everything. She beauty and ber gown would peel- never throws cold muter on your tively demand attention if it were plena. She (Italgif her Bands and says not given frey el, gladly and volute- they are 'splendid, and eu,ggests a. mer wear, the very pinnacle of the season's splendor has been reached. Nothing which savors of the econom- ical or the unpretentious will be worn by the smart woman at this time. The coistumes being prepared for her, and those on hand which he wii1oport, are of a eort to dazzle the eye with their lcrveliness and take ath way e breath by their prices. Fine lapels over chiffons and other silken gauzes reign supreme as tex- tures kr out-of-town carriage bridegroom, that he be not forgot. ten. Ordinarily he eats mireety lit- tle figure in the proeeedinge. He Is regarded rather im the Ilebt of a piece of the tage eat -tinge' or a foil to ehow off tbe radiant beauty ,o the bride -elect. That he Le a very ' necessary adjunct to, the functioe whale brings the bride all ablush into tbe public eye will be admitted. But who uotlees how be is d,ressed? Not even the beta() brenSelf. She end the others have a haelr Pleture of 'a. man With ocreething baulk on Ills body and something white on his hands, and some of the sp.eetators may observe a (seared look on his face. But that j out all. Nobody saYe, "Wasn't be handeome." "Hew perfectly Me coattail:tie set, off Ms splendid figare." "Wheint he just too sweet for anythIngn' Come:tante and complimente ot. this kind are re- se.r,vea for the bride. Tihe bridegroom doseen't get them° and, to tell the truth, hie le glad' of it. He is well content for "here to be the reci- pient of all tile attention e while he stand's meekly in the backgr,o1nd. ttat less embarrassing and less both - look the better, and when the bit- lovvy train is lifted satin slippers, silk stocking's and airy petticoats in the same tints are revealed. For her finest raiment the eophisti- e,o.„ted dresser esebews anything in the, nature oe a kid shoe unless it is In the bronze abode. Such footwear. waich is considered the top notch of enaa,r.tneiss, she displays only with e, browe or blue gown. If Her Hoisted Furbelows eraome. . Is after the wadding and in the borne Life that tbe June bridegroom show' up big, if he is of the right eort, and most 'oe 'them are. It is wean the honeymoon hoe waned that he proves to the June 'bride the 'wis- dom of her choice. It is when he takes off hie coat and bu.stlels hard to work all day and is tender, lov- ing and, teu,e under tbe evening lamp that to demonstrates that he is not tee motning au.m.my that he ap- peared. to be during the wedding ceremony. It may be that the world will not notice it. No mention of the foot 'well be found In tbe society columns and. the neighborhood gos- yips will have nothing to say about tt. But when he has, made her a happy home the June bride will un- deristand and appreciate the feet, ir she is of the right sort, atid most or them are, and will bless the day that brought to her her own June bridegroom. They are. both good people; may they, live long and pros- was not of le sort sold alone for this purpose, but the law which ade josts alt things now, shapes it Into a, distinct species. A. composite pho- tograph of all the summer headgear in Christendom would result in a transparent background and a. flowery thatch. Even if the Shape is of straw, it is of a. straw so fragile that It eau alraost be seen through. It is flat besides, large in circumference, and invariably flower trimmed. Mang transparent black hate of drawn tulle with! ostrich pillIffeki are seen, the shapes running much to Gainsborough effects. The crown - less plateau is almost as mucbl In evidence, a stiff hair band raising this for fit and beconaing- ness from the head, Such wire shapes aro sometimee loosely. covered with funny elide of 'Mingo. And she hes eutab a funny, Wholeetlearted way of deiseribleg them that it is as good. to hear her tee to Have been there Yetereelf—even better, for ebe has the humorous are, which is a, great gift. 'She doesn't abuse it, though.. You needn't expect to be regaled with bit- ter meekest:as and spiteful exaggera- Jeanie. She can be oleyea and funny without beteg unkind, or untruthfal, or coarse. 'ad this is also a great 813012 teeePtiee and resPOnsive. She likes everybody, net considering it her duty to suepeet everyone of evil until theer have expressly been proved good, She prefers to consider all the world helmet and glad until it proves itiselt otheirweee. , She always gets along. Site has friends everywhere. For people who have meit her never forget her, and ethe has room In her own heart for everybody. The gal aim ban friends, makes friends and keeps friends—bless her 1 It does mot mattee whether Oho is rieb and good-looking, or poor and Herr faculty for frienasbip makes -up for everything elec. And there isn't anybody we'd rather have arouact—Exchaxige. J. The Sailor Hat in Town. The sailor hat has 'Put in an ap- pearance again this euremer. The roost attractive have mediara Wide brims with low, square crowns, and are evolved from coarse whole-wheat straw platted perfectly fla,t. The only trimming is a band of 'black or navy lade ribbon aboutean tueb. and a half wide, tied in a, flat bow on the Left side. Occasionally one sees an osprey quill or ',a. short quill -like feather thrust through the sailor for travelling or outing weax. 'It is be- coming to young faces, as a matter of course, bat women past their youth shouiti exercise judgment about wearing so severe a, style. per. Women in Egypt. A. returned visitor from/ Cairo says that one very noticeable re- sult of the English occupatioh is the difference that it has made 'en the Egyptian women., says the Boston journal. Many of them! dregs in European fa.shion. and wear the most wonderful jewels. Many, COM - kine portions of European and Egyptian, attire with , somewhat queer results. The oddest combina- tion is that of a Parisian bonnet and frock withl the Egyptian veil and trousers. Of course, many of the Egyptiane guard their wives as closely as formerly, but the tendency. Is to have mats one owite—In enemy caeca from motives of economy—and in that case she is allowed mach More freedom. Some or these moxio wivet, entertain regularly,, though, it Is true only; ladieg are invited to the entertainments, 'The Bridal Veil. 'like bridal veil is now a,rranged to cover the entire gown at the baek and but rarely falls over the face. The fine French tulle veil is more favored than the heavier veil of lace, as it lends itself more easily to graceful draping. Doth equare and round veils are worn. A new touch, is to edge the veil with. an applique of, duchess or rose taoitit. Mae veil with a five inch border is being exten- sively, used, as veer' as the evil finished with the narrow white Milk fringe. The fringe idea is also introduced into the bride's bouquet, which is sometimes tied with white gauze Mons, edged with silver fringe. tilhe shower effect of narrow ribbon for the bridal bouquet ie not . con- sidered so smart this year as the ribbons of broader width. The Question of Neckwear. The meet eeonomieal phase of the pearl necklace fad le the wearies 01: one of thew Barroque stones on e thin gold chain. These are in pear tempo, with a. calyx setting in sil- ver and rose diamonds, and with a lagh gown only the missbapen pearl le seen, falling over the front of the etock, pendant fasinion. Simple Materials are used to accomplish the most ele- gant results with many fine disuses, Foe example, one exquisite evening gown of white not and lace was nia.de et -terming bg a treatment any- thing but O.:pensive in itself. Pink rose garlands—tile simple, cheap cont that are bought in. yard lengths —tvere put oa the bodice and skirt eoleyeen obirrings of the net, which was almost as nee as tulle. Those an the bodice formed a delicate ber- tha band for the round neck, and those oa the skirt shaped a hip yoke without increasing the figure at tine poltit. Only; a French mind could hove thought 'of sueh a comblaation, hut deft fingers all over the world may achieve It'. another and even more brilliant ase le being made ol black bebe velvet,' which le now woven in elaborate em - breweries, a dress ordered for New- port of stvagger maker displays tease embroideries in the form of big winnowers. Net is the texture of the gown, and blue in a ;curious' deep act faded thatle its color; and over this effeetive backgroand the flow. ere leppeer upon the skirt, which is made with a. deep, ,tetirred flames and train. The bodice lo eintirely of shir- ring over a fitted lining, with the velvet looped over the maritings and canght down with rosettes. The tops off the puffed sleeves are also abirred, creating a. saug fit at thie pant, 'wane squore tabs Of blue silk, 35 up to 60, casts a, "Mead theee dim- ities, in wbete and also in colored designs, are inexpensive 101rr summee Mips. / • .&eis essentia.1 tbat oolvers shbuld ble wateha,ble tbe tbriety) house- wife will not buy) cheap leateriale that last Only) until they become soiled. It is also wall to make h. note , of the fact that the 50-ineh goods out to better a,dvatitage than the 28 ar 31 inch, widths. Some upboleterers make up the Colo ere with a French seam that is stitchie,d ley the nalaeberte; but a. plantr is is 'to use wool bending, first carefully 1E3h/inking it before putting it with the natterial. Learn to be a Philosopher. To, ate eopt tiltr) inevitable; neither to struggle against it nor tn.ur- mar at it, Simply to bear it—tbis the great leeson of life—above all to a woman. It may come late or early and the learning of it is sure to be hard, but she well never be a really happy women until ehe hat/ learned Blalock Craik. Women's Perfect Bloom. Expert authority has decided that the age oi the Venue of Milo was 82. This age, then, may be .regarded as the time of woman's life when istbetis in the most perfect bloom, Ac- carding to history, this ago, and on to efe, ie the period during which woman bate Inepired the greatest love. Cleopatra was supposed to have been 38 when oho met Anthny, and Helen of Tlroy is declared to have 'been nearly 40 when Parte was smitten with her charms. Otlaer. examples might be given, but these elbow that woman's age of fascina- tion nee nearer to the Indian sum- mer or her life than ber days of budding springtime. A Reign or Linen. Both the new linen blouses and the linen fracas are delightfully cool nooed fresh looking; Int linen is by ale meters. smell cool wear as it Woke, and it tumbles very easily. These linen blouses are meant strictly for morning wear; they look slightly heavy and out of place of an afternoon, when the spotted silk eau:altos and the fine silk ba- tisties are far prettier. Because linen has these drawbacks, tussore will go Inc toward replacing it this sea.son. tussore blouse, trimmed with !coarse yak or filet lace pr linen guipure, always, looks well, and goete 'with anything. In making up tuaeore, however, it should. be re- membered tbat It looks neater and fits better with the front set into Large box pleats stitched down at the edges; it is apt to get shape- less and baggy if gathered or fulled , only. Nevertheless, linen is too ebarming in its fresh colorings to be lightly laid on one eide—en ob- oeervation confirmed by a frock of apple green linen ready to be sent -home from a fashiona.ble atelier the &leer nay, Thee had the lower half ot the skirt almost covered with ir- regular al:magmas, of cream linen emhroidery, 'while the little one bolero was hidden beneath a cov- ering of embroidery that peeped out in tine underseleeves and blouse, whicli was:tucked into a deep belt of white sluede. ARTISTIC SLIP COVERS. lelodern Improvements in the Dress el • Furniture in Summer. Tile ordinary,: gray; or creme -color- ed slip eavers for furniture have been superseded in the homes of those wlio know the lateet aiad beet eashions in bouse furnishIngs by. attractive chintzes, alma taffetae, art tick - lags mid cretonnes. The usual spring eleaning leas here- toifore brought out an array, or som- bre -toned coverlings, that in some cases was retainedth far into e win- ter, and evee io a. ifew instances only put aside for oceaesions of formal en- tertaining. Now, with the rapid ad- vanee in making the interior of the house bereatiful, even the details of summer furniture coverings are not ewer/looked. The old-etyle bollards when a,dopt- ed merely) as 84prdtectien, from, duet in a cloned house, answered very ma, well, but ny homes make only a pretenne on a summer closing, part orf the family) remaining and making use of the rooms. Under tbese con- ditionis a, little thought and ex- penee should bring into the changes necess,ary for tbe season not only the comfort that is imperative, but an artistic element as well. ell. material that gives a crisp appearance to the furniture when made up Into Wipe in, a French, liuen embroidered with tiny dots. This comes in 50 inch goods at el a y,ard, and its range alt colors—blue, red, green', heliotrope and brown—adapts lit to a,nly, outer seheme that has been attempted for the winter xnernaes. Cretonne has far a long time, been used for bedroom furniture coverings, but (Meg bas it been adopt- ed in other roomls..A. daring use of a big, flowered pattern. made up with red binding Made a slimmer parlor so destined -eve that the idea is worth repeating. ; I Sane of the art tiegs kinlea:ve par- ticularly' teasingPdesigns, small and weti defined, that snake them service- aible foe certain pieces of furniture. In the linen taffetas n. hitherto unexplored field is n'CAV opened for tbe lowers df tee beautiful in con- necttan wide the sumer coverInge oar The light brown natur- al alien colored gronnelwork is more durable for this purpoee than the white aid the all-over patterns are the meet ecenomleal. noses tied with ribbon Ideate, garlands of flowers with etripes of contrasting colors a,nd colniventional design's ate 'Some 011 the atyles that are pretty for sap covore. tartly. She deserves, and has, the way to make them levee more pniu In Vera, daintee bedroldnes the white did, se evreetly earl modestly that admiration of all creation. &males that hove been sad for And yet we make bad to, put in a you thenk it le our owe euggestion. spreads and vattenes eare _new being oot caro Much whetbeie he goes to 'Wit for Women. "elhle, bee a very fine voice ; has she ever sung for Mau?"?" "Have you pressed her ?" ' "na,ve pressed her ? I think, Me friend, apt are a little too inquisi- tive." "Yess," said the old man, addres- sing his you,ng visitor ; I'm rpoudl of my girls, and should Ake to s ee them all eamfortably married ; and as I've made a little money, they won't go to their hu.slbeinds penniless, T,heree; 7rfery, 25 years ad, an,d real good girl. I ,sball give leer a thousand pounds when she marries. Tacit comes Betr who won't see 85 again, and Shall have two thousand ; and the man who takes Eliza, 'who is 40, will have three thousa,nd with leer." The young man reflected a mol meat or 80, salad then nervously in- quired: "You bayonet One about 150, have you ?" Biblical—Bess—I bear aoti are go- ing to marry a lawyer ; you lucky, girl. Now you will have everything m,oney oat buy. Mau d—Wtiy se? Bess—Because, you know, one is alwans hearing of thee law and the prelate. LItilo jobany—I'd a good deal ra- ther 'have you caalin' on laister tbani Mr. Nieefellow. Sister's Admirer (delighted)—Would yea ? Why? Little Johnny—'ea.use whenevetl Mr. Nicefellow Galls he stuffs up the keyaole. "lite best thing to seal a, proposals Le it kiss, is It not r "No, dear; witness." "W.hat magnificent funeral you have given your wife, Mr. Yale," said a.leympathizing friend. "Yes, well I know she would have been only too glad to leave been able to ,ebow the same honor for me." Man'ager—What es the matter? Why don't aou go into the cage? Madame Rinaldo (the Lion Tamer) 1-1 han't. There's e. Mouse in the cage. --- Fond Mother — Here's somethiing about a baby whose bead measures 25 inehee in Circumference. Is .there any danger of our darling being so deformed ? Skeptical Father—No, dear ; not unless he could understand and be- lieve all things you say to bine Eastern Girl—Have you any ob- jections to meeting a divorcee? Chicago Man—Not unless she's been my wife. "After all, there is a great deal of satisfaction in battle; let love with a literary girl," he said, re- flectively., "Why ?" "Well, even if ehe leas to decline von, she is always polite about it. She never' targets to add 'with thanks.' " "31e Is breaking Ms heart nevelt her." "And ehe won't h'ave him ?" ahat, "I suppose she is sorry for Min?" "Sorry Why, man, she is jute; tickled over it." "I lost a log at Gettysburg," said the veteran, taleing to the sweet -girl graduate. "How awful 1" said Mao "and die you find it again, captain ?" Caller—Is your wife in, Mr. Na- bor ? Naboash —No, e has east ran Over to MTs. Cells tor five tratiatee. Can you spare the time to wait a cot- ple of hours till she gets back? Vialtore-Now, Flossie, Would. ao11 like, me to give you sixpence? Flossie—Yes, Vieltoe—Yes, 'you—what ? lela ossie—If you cn't afford more. If a. lean serves him faithfully six days le the ',meek, tile evil one acme; little ale& 00 behalf of the jam Wherever she goe0 she gees the maed fen furniture ootaere. At how church on Sunday or not,