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HomeMy WebLinkAboutThe Wingham Advance Times, 1926-10-14, Page 5i ler r ei , e tj, r 1,r s+r ..i.�; i.0 66 lu, Sea trk ti �• .;:� /. •%fib €f.Y>t. Y u '� • . s: With Clever Minds As a Medium, Fashion Bargains With Luxury —. The Eve- ning Mode: is the Result. CRER E is a group of clever folk ,in Paris—v o may call therm the maste_ , minds of fashion, if we like—who are the, creators bf aur fundamentals, for they offer, for, our acceptance, the carefully thought out models that' are 'the basis of •our mode, Some . we accept, 'some we reject, but ' it is from their •originations that we .choose, and 'we call this group; the "haute couture," in con- trast to'the "haute monde," which is the gro 1p' -that wears and profits by the skill of the: designers. Elegance characterizes t:.o • au ' umn openings and. the advance . showings of whiter fashions. Then: es aruite Settled, t q g, tiled, so -far as certain fundamentals are con - cleaned. Remains the task of. • el' berating upon these themes -- an "elaborate" is what the makers of, odes are doing. •°Fashion has tr eled far since the days of war- tans- simplicity, passing through many'by-paths that had to db with boyish' and mannish; effects, arriv- ing., by these devious' ways at a purely .feminine mode. This mcdc,.:. in general, is char- acterized. -.by rich, even luxurious fabrics; iingeiiious 'in nnipulations o'f thole* fabrics, colors" of unusual. shading and -trimmings that are synoinfnxous .with 'differentr-ese. fl he silhouette, as • interpreted for eveii,ing •wear is a subtle•.thin'g,,not to else "lightly: attempted ,,, by the; 'arnateur..and:.practically a' failure, in""many 'of its "phases, when 'the neanlpulater"'is not' an: artiste in materials. All the: details of the newMode.find a place,in the eve- ning, frock. , You May Have Your.' Choice! The trend toward elegance: seems to have little, if any- effect upon • •the 'popularity .of what is, in effect, the:;simple . frock . of .chiffon • or Georgette. We are - d'ealing with effects, rather than. causes;' in this • type of dress,' for" designers ,arrive at the end by. devious ways, and keep the secret of their skill in in- tricacies to themselves. :One is' linliressed ".by thee sophistication of tlies, a inimitable—and incopiable— models' that prove worthy rivals' of the more. ornamental'types. • one the point : of view of fa fes, this stresses the sheer chif- e ere and G r ettes ''an they g ape �'- p. pear, on , the zoster ea; materials that are. used for the tete of dress that, is elaborately embroidered •in segbi'ns, rh'inestdnes, crystal or beads. Lavish decoration isthe thehn.e of models of this eort,.and erequently the fabric, ishard to :deternzilie, so generous has. the de- signer been with the decorative medium. There is certainly. no diminution of the popularity.of the "beaded" dress. Another way,'t'b luxury is plotted by 'lengths of velvet -s -so" soft; and supple that it is as wore ble as silk, the metal brocades, and. more specie:11y• by the silvet and geld • lames. This latter fabric Is Very, very supple, endear' be worked as easily as a sheer fabric --the gen- Uhe • TJ12i1MER evening affairs sate m uch of the alisw, i for it ' seemed an ideal wrap tor that particular season, It will not disappear from fashion with the ooming of winter, brit' it will' be conineiied to share its . popularity With the heavier garment that af- fords rather more 'protection• to the wearer. And it will also exert an influence an the wrap mode, ter sl eves will not be as ' important ;they have been in seasons'past aW wrap deel ns outto mUeri ri g coat t i 'ants of the o. A myl g 'The e ltoynate of this special mode is g ale . anee a,nd luxury, for it be' gine with materials like tho rich r;I,tal btbcatet:atal velvet and ends *Rh embeilishi tents of enebroldery slid ' fur, Of course, there are :models made wholly of the mete eral fabric tendency throughout tees entire mode is toward the pliabil- ity that makes pleats and scarfs and panels and draperies possible. Softness in lines follows softness in fabrics, of course. The Silhouette Is Temperamental It is in evening dresses that' the. silhouette has the greatest freedom, for it can include: novelties that are inappropriate ,for daytime wear,although for ' formal after- noon affairs there are modifications of extreme • lines, the "roue de style" for example. Evening sil- houettes include •the straight line silhouette; modifications of the rip - piing hemline,` lines, that hint 'of the .Directoire, :•panels, tiers, capes, boleros, bloused bodices, and the period` frock. • Perhaps there is no better way to crystallize: the evening, • mode than to, .make use of examples, Which,' though they may -suggest its possibilities, can really do little more than: suggest. In a general way one may be sure of short 'skirts homage to both tendencies of the evening mode—the simple' and the elaborate. In the model; with the glittering bodice such homage has been paid, and the liking for fabric completely" covered with glittering beads, Is expressed in, the' b.edice, while the'simplicity of chiffon, un- adorned, is expressed in the skirt—. --although the period dress in- the e' two linked together by the clines to length; a deep decolletage; I bracelets of brilliants to `which .the and sleeveless models, -although an wing panels are .attached; Note occasional flan lends to the -robe.' the shoulder 'flower, and the intrf- de style a suggestion . of a sleeve. cate ripples of; the skirt. How'are There is always' the exception that those ripples achieved—Who shall proves. the rule. say? Every, wardrobe will include in The Range Of The Period Frock Its selection a frock that is suitable Happy. the woman :whose 'slen- for .informal dining and dancing. darnels' permits her to .vary her Such a, frock .is pictured ina evening attire .with some adapta- model'. that shows• traces of period tion of the period frock, that fash- influence M its plain little bodice ion dubs the "robe de style.". It and its' widened hemline.. Its gen- possesses picturesqueness' and a eral • effect is youthful, for it is certain quaint charm that no other simple, with nothing to mar the style approximates, and there are simplicity • even .hough :there is so many types of it that it is a trimming.. Delicate traceries of possibility for practically everyone beads forma background for flow- slender enough to wear it, . But its ers of th'e 'fabric, the;hemIine, is bouffant lines make it adifficult uneven—a detail of much import- model for' the 'woman with ten- ance in ti• e, Thede: dencies toward plumpness, for her ConcerningThe Vogue rear` Ostrich it should be forbidden. • Fashion .lies: been forting `•with Taffeta, because of its firmness, is ostrich for many seasons. Just well -Piked for period dresses. -It is when we are surest that it will not really stiff, as taffetas used to have a.genuine vogue, it disappears be, but it hales a fine where crepe entirely; then; when we have Quite would not. There<is an old-world forgotten it, charm In the model with a' height - it appears again. It is staging a. somewhat spectacular re- ened waist line and an upstanding turn this season not 'only' in the collar that, suggests a ruff. Note intriguing ,• resurrection or . the the line of the shoulder that makes just a suggestion of gg a sleeve ' feather: boa and. the pierrot tuft,with but' in trimming details for evening two little ruffles of het. There are flounces of the net, ee well,and the frocks. It is,a most graceful trim- ' ming, and is specially beautiful in finish is supplied by'appliques of the ombre shadings, but it must `Be .,the taffeta set on Wlth embroidery handled artistically. stitches, The model illustrated is typioal Taffeta and net axe :again the of the possibilities of ostrich. as' a materialsIn a model quite different rimming. The ,bodice, which you in its effect, ;although belonging to will- note dips up to front, chooses the same group. The skirt reminds' beads' , one of a, huge flatver, and the for its trimming, but the Skirt, out very wide and very full, simple little bodice is glorified finds the ,delicate fronds,. done' into with a fiche of delicate black' lace, fluffy tassels, a 'most effective dec- oration. They are so applied that with every step the skirt ripples gracefully; and wlien not in motion, it falls in irregtilariy.pleasing.lines. This method of applying the ostrich Is a welcome variation from the usual border; Occasionally •a; designer pays this Rohe forming a stiggestion of sleeves. The huge brew' of taffeta ribbon lets its ends trail the fiber, and stride it is black, it carries out the color effect of the model. All blank, and black and White are popular, at the moment. Many Details Assure Versatility There are many ;clever uses of EVEN1NG WRAP l ;pbnsive furs—they are "simply choice—a sing' 1e roup.coiitained a g sumptuous"and sumptudusly simple coati'of silver brocade lined with in effect. • Ermine, that might be White velvethe brocade' further mistaken far White velvet, broad- t embellished tail,' that reminds one of black with ernbroderies Bono moire silk and coats of'fiiink and in pearls and rltinostones and a sable ---Russian or udson e collar of whlte fox fur, and a tiered But the average Wardrobe 18 cape of metal cloth in, iridescent content 'With'a ear coat of the Moro tints, lined with Velvet and ,col - serviceable sort, and evening re- Tared Iri of inchilla. A coat of coral qutrements are well filled ley the velvet was beaded .all over in gold boat at fabric.' Von cast trim the and lined With gold and coral satin fabric teatq ito lavishl asyop —in alternating' gstrtps . • with Ike fur, 1 tforh t e e r , is Ito limit A' cape of black velvet "'find a to' what it Will de: One ' sees dal- bloused bae1 and Was lined with than wraps a -plenty, for the dol- White velVet,: the Whole garment roan is very rued: in the general bordered with Whits foie, Blue ah coat; !node, And thete are tiered role' brobade toolt on, the lines o� d; capes, dollered in •rich. "furs, and dhlteaii Wrap, and Was lined With cape -type.. *raps With bloused veieet In the same shade of:li'luo, bteeke. • collared With kolinsky d ed 'to . Suggestlt•o oi' the Utea,dtla or lxhitatet 1 14 u'i':pJ„J�li A Y lee.' w.tiklq ,. 13 .&ir 4:2-a— --57 .•Qacs>- ea'O -? Tar -red- //YF. OiA."7.9Z s kyr y O1"A,C ' 77P:4,75: . Ma'czone Section BY THE YARD '�ER'T"indication points eta .the lavish use of fur tri winter fashlons, . When the coat is not of far,. 11 will be trimmed with fur, and there will be cuffs and``coliars and bordersfand.peckets of pelts "fat tones. -either natural er dyed•,-tha•t :harmonize vtith the fabric of the coat. leery often it will, take, an expert puzzle maker .to decide whether fur or fabric Is the faunda- tion,materiai, The rule, then, will be—fur-trimmings. It • is . quite, Possible for you to rejuvenate a last winter's coat ,oa frock with fur,'' but in order toi'do this yeti must emulate the famous cook whale reputation Or rabbit pie was 'everywhere "known. rShe opened; her recipe with the enlight- ening' statement—"First catch your rabbit," ' So—first get your your fur, And you may be 'getting rabbit, in some guise ,or other, at. that: _ tFor they're doff g rare things with that little animal, these. days. 'When you stop: to realize :that'',: prices of fur, sold by the yardr' range frons, a "dollar., or two into the hundreds, you' will understand' that fashion's endorsement of furs means variety, If you are using a fur that will grace a formal occa- sion, then there'is.ermine and the moire -surfaced. broadtail, °•Sports 7' tiers are of the type of anteeop'o and- leopard, and there are -many colors of furs .of the caracul,;type, Mole, squirrel, Hudson seal, beaver and nutria' are at your disposal, so are tie foxes, Japanese mink, krimm•er and monkey, and there are various furs, with fancy narrtes, that were, originally,' rabbit or HOME humbler pelt. The Tam-o-sh.atiter is reality a vogue, and is to be had in so many versions that school girl, '•matron'or debutante` may wear it. . It is de- veloped in velvet; felt and velvet, velvet and grosgrain, grosgrain and feat, and all felt. A, single cdlor,,or two, may be used. ' 44.5ooie:?d0e-46ag-5ft • ,0147CCeS S the mode grows elaborate, colorful, intricate—accessories Increase in importance. They certainly contribute . much, If they are properly chosen, and it lies within their'. power to complete- ly ruin ef1!ects, 11! they are careless- ly assembled. It' is not too much to say, ;then, that they will either make or mar a costume. It must be 'remembered :that the ,,node„ is quite as versatile as it is elegant, wleieh widens` the cliolce and in- creases the possibilities' of wrong selections. the,,evening . mode especially much may depend . upon the cos- tume 'details chosen after the frock has been decided upon, and it is imperative .that, these details be properly worn as well as properly chosen.. et -not infrequently %'hap- pens that the evening frock is • a mere wisp of• a thing and when this is true:' the very brevity of the dress makes the little things of the ,',17/4 i9.GOY 4.e�.�OEA�A1' the ;bolero ins, the general mode, and one. e e sees s i t f r e e t l eve- ning qu n. y in e ning models.. It •may appeal in back, at one side, or in front— rarely all the way round. Embroid- eries 'ire mbroid-eries'are much ueed,and in many instances • fringes of beads trim models of crepe', the beads them- seives of crystal, or flat. pailettes. And the cut-out, beaded neckline is still, a. detail of the, evening model—providing, som.etinees, the Maly trimming. • The ' blause, growing daily more popular, is a` feature of some .of the smartest evening frocks, .'and there are some clever tiered sltirts, the edges of the tiers embroidered in beads, !There is, ,apparently, no limit get on ` the uses •0f capes, scarfs anfl fluttering ends, and nothing is omitted that adds to the luxurious beauty of the, decorative models, What ,fabrics, ,lines and color do not accomplish, trimntings db,• ..S'� PARI .9GAlNl FJ might' as well admit our debt to 'aris, fee,. owe it, and it has accrued to an arnasing total through scores of fashion years. And 'iioW a new item'niiist be added—the, "Chale- de-]uit't of the smart Trench `Woman--bUr, evening shelve 'And' it is something' snore than the fa- miliar fringed affair that we nese- elate With S sit- - !t is really a wrap that protects, g'racefui in its lines, and it• Is simple, to make if You are geed with a needlo. It takes for its tabrie crepe, silk or 'rrietallio brocade, and' is simply gorgeous whets of the latter fabric lie black and gold, •or green Mid silver -let us .say—bordered .evith Geesegette in 'elle ,color, and ,cot- • nered in silver or gold. The shawls made of crepe e e or silk n are in a"salla color and may be hand -Painted with one of the new 'textile paints —a pattern le easily acquired. The border of such a shawl will be of another color front the shawl itself and harenonlee with the decoration, Making these shawls has be- come a fad, and in some of the stores they are giving lessohs in the work, and the making is' prov- hag rather simple,' Another •idea is a combination of a cape and a scarf 'kn'own as the "Cossack," and it is a thing of beautiful colors and dripping fringes. This, ton, from Paris, as is the net shawl'searf: that is hand -crocheted silk net trimmed with coIorful applique flowers. The frock shows through, so one must'choose the color of her shawl accordingly. toilette much larger in proportion From the largesse of' the manufac turers you have only to select -b selection is'no mean' task.' With every, season the vogue 0 the scarf increases, When It 1 not a part of the frock,. it is meticulously' correct accessory, an seems never out of place with an costume. It belongs,. In the day time, with sports, tailored, en formal afternoon attire, and dresse the high -necked gown or the low And many :women welcome th seeming protection of the . wisp o chiffon, lace, Georgette or net when the 'evening gown is sleeve: less and extremely decollete. There Is something of a flair fo hand -painted scarfs,' done In lovely pastel colorings on sheer fabrics Or -for effect -colors ' may b vivid,' lendiiig a much-needed note to the otherwise neutral -toned cos- tume. A very new,. very .clever scarf for evening wear is made o two squares of chiffon in two tones of the same color, the "squares at- tached at one corner 'and falling in a semblance of wing sleeves over the shoulders' and arms. Chiffon squares are very. much in evidence, for they. may be` worn In `many ways, Tulle is a material 'much ap- proved by smart women for the evening scarf. It 'is' worn, frt- quently, wrapped around the' arms, and gives a semblance, at least, of protection. Some shops make these scarfs to order, in the color and length desired, thus assuring becomingness, The 'tulle may be plain of color, or printed -in har- monizing 'tones: The "scarf, of course, leads naturally to its grown-up sister in the mode—the' shawl, Every: wardrobe contains at least' one shawl, these' days. It may' be your conception' of an evening wrap, or you may.wear It for its own charm, regardless; buts shawl you will have, and -wear, •2't ntay be Spanish or Italian or Oriental in its origin, but it'is pure American i its application, lication for or n , no matter what the source of our fashiens, we wear them our own way—to show our independence and orig- inality. We are more or less fa - miller with the ,squares of ernbroid- ery• on light or dark crepe de chine backgrounds, bordered with deep silk fringes. But some find the shawl of solid °Mor; quite unadorned except for is beautiful hand made fringe, ap- pealing, and others find beauty in shawis that are delicately hand - 'Muted. And. there are shawls that pproslmate works of art, com- ming .hared -painting with hand- mbroidery in wonderful patterns rad colorings. With the introduc ton of feathers into .the evening code, the hand painted shawl with nserts. of ostrich fronds snakes its ppearance*a very lovely 1ashidn. • Costume jewelry is always. 8 problem—what pieces, what stones, *hat shapes and sizes? It maybe our ea Y id a to tree ' to a so liisticated p p simplicity in , your •costuming, in which 'event you will complement your frock of chiffon, unadorned, With a simple' necklace of pearls. But you Will be quite a different pletson when you don your segtilts- studded evening. 1}own, for'it will cant for glittering-, jewelry to, sup- plement its brilliance. And fashion Is prodigal in her offerings to you. There r is Veritable It 1 a ab o cr ase .for r rlilnes o e I t i s c r t 1 > 3 s a , even gla�Ss beads, set in white metal, all fut;thering the idea of scintillating adornment, !there are long neck- laces, short neokiaees, shelters and dog collars, Wide " and narrow breeel~ets, and earringe, ]brig or Shalt. 'And there are 'rhinestelie studded iieele and'straps' ter the lo'vely everkinir footwear that is, Of ut 1 s a d Y d s w.' e • f r e f 0 p a b e a When, A Filmy Scarf Of Printed n Chiffon Coiupleznents :,n Eve- 1 ning Frock. a Did You Know C HAT the one -strap . slipper• is beautiful.: The idea is carried out the type of shoe that fills deft- in black and. Whit the or in t e nitre needs In tho shoe ward- Paradise cplorin?;•s�•--Svith '. vtnbre robe? One , very smart model fringes, combines• black suede—lately re- instated in • the shoe mode --with blank reptilian leather, The Tatter 13 more important :than ever. THAT a new little fitting for the purse of the, Woman who smokes takes the form of a oigarette light- er? I ight-er?T t s fashioned t i n a ed of silver or of leather, r, and.1ss averS, small I that it twilh trick away In the comer out of the.way, And It really woivks, this lighted 'I'Ii .A”. T 1?oris, lg trying tb see dust Whet' she can really do with ostrich feathers?' A. hand -painted silk sleeve has snots embroidered With flat -lying fronds` that ere very THAT there's a new sports coat of suede leather much in 'the ]iine- light at the •present' moment? 4It has a tailored capeskin collar that fits snugly when closed, matched by knitted cuffs andborder, this Is Is of interest --it cieses with a zipper fastening, So do the n tickets.1 WHAT fashion experts are"sug- gesting colors for the woman with grey hair, and two et the sugges- tions are Chanel red and Prince of Wales blue? The idea is --the rna- ture figure looks siimnier in'cbiors that have a : rich depth of tone, Which both • these new ' sha:dee. possess, course, necessary to the perfe costume. There . are . things new, things old and revivals •.of • Inas portance, Ise the latter group we note long earrings, and their return to. the mode ,means much to %the 'woman with a slender neck. Nothing, so effectively emphasizes the grace of that slenderness, and fashion is by no means niggardly in the expres- sion of this bit of adornment.. Cut. crystal, artificial pearls and 'thee Inevitable rhinestones are used, many of- the pieces, reproductions of rare old pieces, again sealing the document of approvis1 for antiques, done overin the modern art of imitation :jewels. Bracelets take on ,fvidth, a very new offering a piece so wide . that it resembles a cuff.; There is no. diminution in the popularity of slave link bracelets, but there is change ip the'"size of the links which are growing ;larger, and in many cases the bracelet is Made up of links that arenearly as large as shoe buckles. There` is a :segue for 'pearls in combination with cut stones, and one may find colors to ; harmonize with either her evening. frock or her formal" afternoon gown. The vogue for glittering jewelry is not confined to evening,' by any means. Hat ornaments and brooches of every description are offered for approval, and, needless to say, they get it. There are soresbeautiful necklaces ei imitation pearls In combination with rings or• links of composition that resemble jade or coral, and 'the, familiar rope 'or Jetring of pearls' takes on new :arms.. There are three -strand col- larettes of large pearls, and both pearis and rhinestones make neck laces that end in bow -knot orna- ments, ry The Vogue Of The Shan+ Appliques Ittval '1 der cis .4,?