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HomeMy WebLinkAboutThe Wingham Advance Times, 1926-09-16, Page 7E G'Or^.7F-C>.PT.A.B,G tom' U.7/L/TY C'C„-, 74',97 .THE' .G/+�TEGY j C7. 7.E -TCP - i F�J'•h'/O.'Y•, . /VYir-ager ee ,G 40/0//e/G-.4.2-2- T,#Z7Y C^7G,G%T:9•t . C`p/90U/90..1-- i9FF.,>/ rte. 3i • .0 1 ColorsAnt cif ate' 'ilio ;t one thing you may be cer- tain. When the season of ad- vance showings fpr 'fall and winter fashions arrives, fabrics and colors are .ready, too. Cif course, It still remains for the 'buying pub- lic to evince their preference, but how are they to make that prefer- ence known if they have no knowl. edge of what is offered? So a hint, at least, of what le being featured in the late showings. Colors are divided, by the nature of • things, into two classes day- time and evening. In general the blues,' greens, reds and broil*ns dominate the color mode for day- time' lase, with some gray, and rare si'rades•of deepened pastels are of- fered for evening.. Summer has seen a very general use of patterns, bold and demure, and fati. •fashions are bravely at- tempting''to return solid colors to the mode, And the shades are what might' well be termed blend- ed, since they often. have quite as much of one color as anotherr ' ' There are. reds, for instance,' and there are. blues, ,and a. combination of the : two will make purple. It takes little to turn the balance either way—in favor of a reddish purple shade or • a bluish purple tone. There will be a.verygreat many shades of purple and the reds that approximate it --raisin, petunia, plum;, pansy. violet and•d'eep wine, and for the lighter range -dahlia; lilac and p, reddish violet. :Already there are shades like maroon along the 'Avenue and .certain soft sear - lets are offered with the coral reds for evening. Blue will• have new shades—a steel tint, and a,,phade. that reminds one of slate' gray, even,” thong* it is .classified •as a blue 1, .e, •., •.i . Green: will not go out and the new tones are soft, brown inclines to the yellow tints, and taupe is represented. ;4 tee' es, 4. DD3 YOt O THAT fashions for a rainy .day, are gradually growing and now include a. scarf as an accessory? And this scarf, which is polka- dotted, as so many good scarfs are, is shower proof, making it a fitting accompaniment to the smart rain- coat , THAT a new tone is being spon- sored by the couturieres, and is meeting with the approval of the smartest women? It is called melon pink, and appears for both daytime and evening occasions- in frocks, hats, hosiery, even sweatere and sweater suits. Fashion Prov ides for the LateVacatidn- istAsWell As for. Early Fall—Modes for a Journey Back to ature. NILE the months of July and August may marshal their cohorts of vacationists through the ' length and readth of the land, the cooler days of September =and .'the mellow days bf October's Indian summer are Well -beloved in the hearts of many, Torrid. , days are easily • borne if one sees ahead a refresh- ing playtime,;when mornings are cool and occasional days hold a hint of crispness. . And' active sports -hunting, fishing, hiking, `riding -are growing ,increasingly popular as time goes on. g,p•proprietel apparel for a vaca- tion wardrobe that is to be worn in the woods or in the mountains is imperative. It calls for .an ele- ment of practicality without which it would: be a complete failure: there must be omfort—to a cer- tain extent synonymous with prac- ticality, and smartnees rac-ticality,andsmartness must.not be whb1Y ladling. And it is quite true' that, the American woman has a mind of her own when itcomes to her, attire for active sports. The . early fall ,outing may take you to • some really rustic came where there is need for what might well be termed "field and stream costumes, or the resort may cone - bine evening frolics; of an informal' • sort with'the snore active sports. of the ,:day,” In the latter event there will be an inforrnal frock or two, • into 'which 'you may change when the dinner hour arrives. But ne characteristic must be present, hateverethe garment, there must that stamp ' dainty touches a 'the d Y ekes b it as feminine. Comfort The First. Requisite •Butif ybu' find: it necessary to cast aside, some one thing, be sure it not comfort, Pleasant action becomes torture when one's clothes do not, fit perfectly„and accessories do,. not answer ' the purpose for which they were intended. 'A too. tight coat, or shoes that fit im- properly, may bring you' in misery CO the end of ten otherwise perfect, day. 'tet --the necessity for corn fort should . not make irriperatiye the violation of any of, the some- what rigid rules of the mode, Every once in a while there ap- pears:a startling note in the fashion summa s Fie Tho ,kniclter costume is no longer correct! To a certain eXtent this note should always' be exploited, for there are a very great many women for •cvhorn the 1:nicker is most certainly anything but correct. But for lier who fltids it becoming, it is always a fashion, possibility, and' new models of title Practical garment combine it with a longer coat, which makes it •a ronelderatipn Or the woman no longer slender.' 4 And many of the smart short houses indhtde a skirt of the wrap- arouhd type in.the outfit, for there When the sort man arec time's w nn swo willelcomo al terrier lve find i'aw d t • to the abbreviated t:ostumo of which it isya part. The coat can quite easily reach. to within six or st\'eri niches• of the knees and will t sprovide rovide the long line that is el7ryttered when knickers 'aitd a the choice of the wearer. Fabrics Are Smartly Serviceable • If tradition demands practicality, and in this instance traditionmeans comfort, then the material from which the costume is fashioned must • be. durable, • and: possess something of beauty. But if either one of the • two must be sacrificed, let it be beauty For fishing, hunt- ing and hiking, fashion offers you a choice of tweed, corduroy, linen, homespun, gabardine, khaki : and covert cloth—either wool.or cotton:' Washable fabrics have virtue, and color is an item for consideration. Many of the materials offered come in tan—the shade of khaki cloth. This is . a most sensible choice, but it does' not, of course, have the appeal of green -ad- mittedly the color of the hunter— and some prefer red, which is more picturesque than practical, al- though some of the new rust reds are usable. The tweeds and wool mixtures, used for knickers • that are worn, usually, with a coat of contrasting poser, come in a'choice of colors. ; The usual make-up of this type of oostume is knickers, skirt and jacket, although there is novelty in 'the suit that has two pieces, only, the usual knickers and a wrap- around skirtthat may be converted. into a cape in event of'a sudden rain. And some costumes' make use of the cape, which is so com- pletely of the mode; preferring it to the jacket—of cardigan type, or the longer coat. • For A Really Practical Purpose Illustrative of • the practical, withal comfortable,• suit for rough- ing it, we have a motorist's suit of corduroy—one would find it less sensible for motoring than for other outdoor purposes! It is a two-piece affair consisting , of knickers and jacket, the latter of the lately approved' cardigen'style. The cut and fit of the lttni,ckers pre- serve ,slim lines, yet aro quite large enough, and the jacket has a knitted . belt and, wristbands—to keep the weather out! It is imperative that special at- tention be paid to one's shoes, for upon thein may depend the suc- cess of your vacation. They should Ft2,Pe,, C'c70L c�> 4)- � S' eeW 7.s E" G//Y�r 3 -1 T.S�%J:; ..3'�I/E.�T�i5? G7O/7/"Y.9T/G2'' be made of either an oil -tanned or a chrome -tanned ' leather - tliat no dampness get through 'them— and them -and should' be not. less than two sizes larger than the normal size of the wearer. ; For you are going to wear heavy woolen hosiery and plenty of room is imperative, And heels r;liopid • be low while the shoes themselves. should be high— if you feel You are sacrificing smartness, you'll have to, that's all. For years tradition has ruled the riding kit, and it still' rules, to a great 'extent. Both fabrics: ' and colors have been conventionally correct. and tailoring has 'been perfection, meticulously done. A new note has crept into the riding habit mode, and the woman who likes to be informally .correct is hoping Hauch regarding it. Per- haps It savors• a bit of our West— and why not? The traditional West • rides straight, and gives little thought to fine tailoring, The real West and the East, as we11, may do the same. Possibilities For The Rider The conventional habit will be made to' order, perhaps, although the shops carry ' Complete outfits that are wholly :correct as to fabric, Of Increasing Importance HERE isevery indication that trimmings of fur. It. is perhaps, C ' moire silk will be a late sum prophetic, that there are moire 'mer and early fall Vogue, ue; Of frecte. o bohad, and other m odels course, one is newer certain of any- show this lovely silk in combine- thing—in fashion -but this lovely: tion with other fabrics. fabric is about due for a season of In the smart hat shops one sees popularity, One sometimes won- Much of moire, both. as a fabric dors why it isnot always' a fundi-' and as a trimming. There are niental of fabric fashions. At any models of all silk and others rate, it Is appearing in every pos-' with'either a ,brirn or acrown- of slble place, even usurping, to a ter- moire in conibleation.'vit'h crown teen a! h extent, the popularity Of fires- or brim of felt, velvet or straw, ors and e 'all And thererip A d. aro moire . grain. a , At a time when slider fabrics aro moire bags—or bage of sa.tin and , ruling the fabric 'node, It Is not moire, and for the long hem -length possible to saY how important tie that `will dress ftp yettt' little Moire will prove as a dress Fria- frock of wash silk—moire ribbon hag launched ie smart. (VIM will run the rib. eerie!, but suntmar the vogue df the e /noite coat, and bens through n pearl or eriameietl, semi of the models are piaiely: elide. of nrrur^r'.) So one alt Iettst line and color. 'Coats are slender of line and are made of Belton cloth, Whipcord or gabardine. They are brown, tan, navy or green, and are worn with matching or contrasting breeches. The lat- ter may be linen—and for that matter, the entire habit may be of linen, or cotton gabardine, . or cot- ton bedford cloth. The . formal habit pictured in- corporates into its perfection the 'soft felt hat—sombrero type. --that hints of,. the cowboy outfit. Note the two-tone checlted'waistcoat-alt might have been a solid color, the soft silk shirt, the mannish tie and the gloves of black leather. The boots areregulation—tan or black,• ateord>,ng to the habit, .the crop is braidedleather, and she might have worn spurs with propriety. The links in the sleeves of hertailored shirt—of silk or English broadcloth would be, let us say, of crystal, with sterling silver backs. For contrast—the informal rid- ing kit made up of riding breeches —just as carefully tailored as though it were a formal habit—of brown tweed and worn with a cardigan jacket of brown corduroy. Informal, as well, the shirt opens at the collar, and the little hat of French felt pulled down. over her hair. The sombrero felt hat eould hallo boon :a part of the costume, but Hover .the more formal derby type. One is inclined to feel that the informal costume will grow in- creasingly popular with the woman Who rides for pleasure.. blouse of the tuck-in'variety 'ere designed for fall wear and have thinks of moire! WYr There Must lee A utility Coat No sports wardrobe is 'complete without a'ooat of the utility type, as .pictured. It possesses warmth, durability and smartness, • and it is suitable for every purpose of the active sportswoman. there will be times .when the "feel" of the Sur it wvelcom e rotted the neckw 1 bo a and it adds a Loath 'of charm to the Moat itself. S'uoh a garment is i•inlleratiVe and will find uses every' day, it should be loose and easily donned, it ehould have a comfort-, ing warmth, and it should 'be smart, +:I�Ih�illi.0 For the late vacationist who will golf or tennis—the`, little sports outfit made up of a two-piece dress and a tailoredfelt hat. The sweat- er dress is proving very popular, and in. this instance the knitted jumper is trimmed with a woven fabric which makes the tie -tufts, turn -over collar tie. The skirt widens its hem with side pleats, making for the necessary freedom. The hat, with its folded crown and its slightly drooping brim is of felt, the brim bound and the hat trimmed with grosgrain ribbon, T is an accepted fact that one's enjoyment of an evening—for- mal or otherwise—begins with the right frock and ends at the same place. It will be weeks be- fore the real season begins, so far 'as social affairs are concerned, but evening attire is imperative at all seasons of the year, even thoughit may vary in its degree of formal- ity. And the late vacationist, as- sembling her wardrobe at a time. when anticipation Is the better- part of pleasure,' so far as fashion is concerned, will give thanks for the newest models. They are carried out in`the spirit of the season to come, and they are the last word in original treat- ments of old themes and . unique treatments of the new. They re- semble the usual preface to a book, filling many pages in a story of what is to come, and they are, for the most part, prophetic of a mode that bids fair to be more than usually elegant. There are broad hints of details even more intricate then what we have enjoyed this passing season, and worthy of spe- cial mention, they incline to a lower hemline. The tendency. of the entire mode to what might be termed two sep- arate schools of design is specially noticeable in evening apparel. They are radically different, appealing to opposite types and temperaments, and the one serves as a foil to the other. Not infrequently both may, be enjoyed by the same woman, which seems paradoxical in view of the fact that their appeal is so varied, and they serve to inject variety into a mode that some- times becomes monotonous. And if one yearns for even more minute classification, a third type appears, taking the form of the now familiar robe de style or period gown, a distinct departure from the other two, which neay be roughly classed as the plain chiffon type and the brilliant and glitter- ing frock. The two latter are characterized by straight, stipple lines, exquisite, in their feeling, but the period frock is a bouffant af- fair that falls to the ankles. No one of the three. modes is new, and it has been the task of designers to find some new inter- pretation of each idea, and any trouble they may have had in do- ing this is smothered in the inter- esting array of models presented. "Whatever your preference, You will varies from which to have a y choose, and this variety includes color as well es line and details of trimming. There is a vogue for the .all - black frock, another for the dress made ftp of a colored slip veiled wth black chiffon or black lace— the brocades being attractive un- der the latter, steel both are classed With the oirpple chiffon type of freak. There is ample oye. Or ttni:y for the combination of colors its the model that trees olilffon, and ttitusual blendings—orchid with blue, blue With green, one l5aetel a xC, .An jEvenirr�,g l ,r teemlile -.:.. Frog , , with a.beth.er-�--lire favored. 'Vol - And Capt‘ -0 ;0'1, And Taffeta, , mow is favored, and now and then Color -eV oral Sand' e ecarlet /'rock anpoars,• Ailui,la �xroud.: In some one or other of the piing the fabric aliening coat, ane' many modes of the evening frock themselves provide the material for various fabrics appear. Satin, the gorgeous fur wraps that are for Georgette, crepe, taffeta, velvet, the metal cloths and the new rayon velvet are seen, and there is a somewhat sparing use of silk net, especially noticeable in the period models that take transparent hems to give the length necessary to the Peculiar style. Hand -painted crepe satin and metal embroidered nets are seen. There is sophistication in every evening model presented, but there is more of youth and less of the former characteristic in the chiffon dress. It possesses much grace of movement and scores of little in- tricacies, are used to acquire this grace, these same intricacies un- derstood only by the designer. Floating panels, flounces, long wisps of chiffon that hang down the back—called by the enlighten- ing name of "mare's tails"—are prominently featured and the re- sult is symphony of movement. For movement is the basis of the newest silhouette, no matter what sort of apparel is under con- sideration. Scarfs and scarf drap- eries, wing treatments, capes and fluttering ends are all a part of the mode of the chiffon frock, and wide sashes, panel effects and yokes play a part in the general evening mode. The newest name for the kinetic silhouette, which represents movement, is syncopation—but one name does ns well as another, when the result is pleasing. The uneven hemline is a feature of the new models, dipping, some- times, to the 'ankles and rising to the brevity to which several sea- sons of short frocks have accus- tomed us. • Evening frocks fly 1n the face of the daytime mode and refuse to wear sleeves, which keeps up the general characteristic of direct contrast in the same mode, Necklines are U-shaped, shallow as to depth in front, but deep in back. There are various placements of the waist line—a sort of what -you - will ruling, existing concerning them. Fall will continue the fashion of the evening wrap of metal brocade, an exquisite affair in the shape of a square finished with a deep border of heavy hand -knotted fringe. It takes on the lines of a dolman, the latter appearing in the advance modes for winter, and is corroot for any evening occasion, no watt - ter how formal. The brocades are imported, many of them, from Prance, and show either smart, =small patterns or strilti'ng, large patterns. There are effective come bina.tions of color—black with silver or' gold, silver with claret red or Chinese green, white with gold orssilvor, ;Bening wraps are also shown wrapr c a • n fashion, n cape t ]e, or 1 i y n The most costly fabrics—embroid- ered aric eribroid- ered velvets and; brocades aitd beaded Mate ials••--era used, and they boast linings of rich elegance, wearing furs of luxury and mag- nificence. Sable, tnin.k, ermine and ohinohilla are 1toferred for trine, the utmost in .outer apparel evening wear. The ensemble pictured • 'would The Beaded Evening Frock Re.. mains In The. Foreground Of The Fall Fashion Picture prove an ideal choice for imme- diate wear—at a root -garden din- ner, the country club or pleasure resort. It shows a clever combina- tion of net and soft taffeta ruffles and is developed Ina modification of the .period frock.,, There is a fitted bodice of the taffeta with a sheer yoke effect of the tulle, the approved uneven hemline, and +, clever use of fabric flowers, .foe Which fashion has a most dec73ctr .' liking, The rape Wrap et -triers out the same idea and Is topped with a Pierrot ruff. Its direet ,contrast we have the sheath gown of Georgette crepe. sleeveless and showing a sleep V- neck.. The skirt Is elft into narrow panels or tabs that reach to the knee, and the whole garment is solid with glittering enibrealeries. treat- ments c t- spiral l .a he fa opal and "!` d g i� in 'eboon to 1 i ++ that have a n m.nis .t afi favor all through the. satin growing suttulter aeaeon are much In eve- denee in the fail mode, They reee, noted on frocks and coati", even !'ere wraps, which Hake uses of S ail eat :pelts that yte13 tot lile t@ca"t see ti