The Wingham Advance Times, 1926-09-02, Page 5, a laassli..aal,f.,,Nyapaaa",i.11:7Tarrl'aa, '• " • a'177,77' •
'
.1:
1
79491
'flOH'
otopiri
iNT(:)
FUTU
z24-47.ep
/00c-sr-ET:S.
/e-soz 7-/z14
, a0a9/Y4-.L..r
A Very Definite Style Trend Is Apparent in the Newest
Dresses — Subtle Elaborations Make Them Interesting.
• OZ.' are certain to •-the There is sornething' bf-a-rea.alen. TO-ClOOSe',--the more assure&
ready-to-wear exhibits V7
, the next fortnight, if for no
•other • reason than curiosity,
„
a
though you have. probably left
‘`.r...aDproprlate sum in your sum -
ter liaidgat for the inspiring be-
tweenasea,son • frock. ,that will .do
• duty all through the fall and early
winter. Cold daye‘ have a discon-
ceiting habit of arriving unexpect-
edai. • to Warn that if sarniner
comes, than fall and winter 'are
•not. aar, behi•ad 1 '
Aneit is.aliese little. wandering
iriodels" of frocks that give us • our
first real hint of what the new
rn ede • will be, although. , some of
their. idlosyacrasies are bound to
Meet the fate, of the unwaisted.
• Whatever you abay riow may, be in
the apProved mode of the'mprrient,
• for if .iorne. detail. of 'that ..mode
dies before the winter mode Is
• established, you will have had ;the.
• •
use of Its' differentness, and Win
• net carall.all. •,
;Your needaaust new, Is a day-
time dress; which 'may mean "an
afteraobn eraa• tailor,ed, Model, the'
latter more genuinely useful at this
• . ,
season of the year since one, has
the. feeling,that she,must weansont
her dressier freaks aeet,,, they he
wholly oat of the mode of another
• seas,on., an this possible purohase,
you are asnre te 'study the,..sil-
houette, sleeve's,arid neckline and
further ,detalla of triMirling, and
thd placenient 'of the wittstline:
visible in the matter of width at her success.
There are going to be tunics and
panels and pleats, all'clever in the
business of an: intricate appearance
and straight lines. The coat frock
that 'opens up over an underdress,
or elirais featured„ and frequently
the under slip is trimmed or em-
broidered. , No matter ,how great
may; be your 'longing for simplicitY,
you are sure to find the way to
it 'torturous, especially in •the aft-
ernoon mode1e. deyeloped in crepe,
silk, a.nd--later-aachiffon velvet.
Boleros • and tiers are included
in the newest offerings, and the
old-time-guimpe-asbest liked when
it is transparent—, has • been re-
• turned to favor.. And another old
favorite, the' surpliceclOsing, is
•eVeraavhere ap:parent--in' blonses
and in coat type dresses especial-
ly. It is graceful, becoming and
smart—three. • qualifications that
should assure its success. • It re-
sults in the V-ne.ck'which is'averY
general favorite.
the hem, riot ',exactly..in"naeasures
•meet but -in appeayeace. If you
deplored the - trend' toward width
because • it spoiled straight lines,
the,trend will, undoubtedly,' please
• Dimensions ,maY be • large, so
far as the actual width is con-
cerned,' but 'the., fabric takes on
some 'most- arria.zingintricacies, on
the. otherhana, a skirt xnay be
narrow, • quiteaasanarroW as one
may conveatentlY It is
quite aurprising what designers do
with anateriala-f-elen the: Variety
ofSpring and,etunirier frocks pales
before 'the new .mode ln .the mak-
lag; • It should be impossible for
anyone' to 'dressainbecerriinglya*-
Asrave work away frena the wide
hemline , that .,fires prannundedly,
we encounter the bloused back and
the' .olia-fabblornacia ,pepluarr below
ahe,waist--become • anew" once
More, "Bo,uffa,ncy,a the couturieres
eall It, and this line,: Whether' ap-
pliea above Wawa the Waist,
has yet to . meet the, acid test of
public:" approval.' The blouse is
trienallsal'evens to ..the astbut figure,
but one is not as certain. of the
peptuara, •
Becomingness,'AVill Decide
:There .ds' , Something ofthe
foreign', tefitience, aam,arent, in the
:fracke,thatanake use of.the.bleuse,
the wide sash, and siraight-falling
skirt fulness.- .Andthee is much
9fbeeomingness-awhich • 18, after,
• - •
the meet necessary character -
From, a, wide' assortinent of
becornthg. details, the wise woman
,
is 'geing to ,choose tbbse that were,
apparently, designed specially for
her, ,and. the more she, has from
The , All -Important, Silhopette
• 'If :the lines of Your frobk are
rong, 'then 'the model• itielf • is
'rang,. no anatter hew • cdraect,
fabric, cdlor and the ,Iftitle thing;
of 'fashion' may be. ' So be adviSed.
in this; first of all—it is the
fiinda-
nenta1 • first to ' be cOnsidered.
Ifitriguipg.411ways-
Afieid of Ala Mode-.
HB animal akin scarf. hag the
distinctlea of being.' an all -
,the -year-round fashion. It
provides a finish for the cloth
froek, that .is so popular 'during
the spring and fall, or fdr the suit,
or coat that does not beast a 'fur
collar. It may be of sable--
Iludsoe, Bay ' or Rtrasiah--br it
may be of squirrel, Melt or fisher
' That it 18' smartest when it is
fOx—so • Fashion sayai The ,slY
little animal, loving life irt the
• opera would 'be puzzled, hideed„
Were it to meet itself' in the dis-
guise it assarnes 'when it has fallen'
prey to the trapper,
rota through the isurnmer months,
We Wear aox siting that have 'beet
dyea in the pastel shadeS, aria in
• tho Winter We 'wear Jones that
were never Vitagecl st-field. Atid it
May be that sonic: oris of es are
partueste enough tb pessesa a
alivcr abX akin, the Most valuable
( far of the Western. continenta-the
ariatoerat of the Notth. Arid the
firicat of these prealbris na8 come
from Canada. Grey, Smoked, blue,
white and red Shins are enthral
ecaorlage—and it is the letter that
oiteriest clipped itt the dye-petS;
k:aa
Necklines Are Complicates'
While both the V-neck and the
square neckline are of the mode,
trimmings complicate the situation.
The fernier may be collarless or
collared, and the tie collar, the
scarf ,and the convertible neck are
generously represented. The high
neck—buttoned, banded, in scarf
or cravat'form—retains its popu-
larity. The Eton.collar is an ap-
proved finish and it is often ac-
companied by the' jabot,. In fact
this bepoming garniture is an es-
tablished detail.
• The waistline is indicated by a
tie -sash, a belt or aagirdle, which
makes it 'imperative that one, be
sure the indication- points true to
•becomingness. And sleeves are
evea more whimsical than 'they
were last,winter--long, of course.,
.They'inchide the gauntlet cuff, the
• Bishop and the • puffed styles, the
puffs of the • latter variously Adec-
.
orated. '.nd the long, tight sleeve,
of tailored rnien, remains. With
the new' guImpee, there are clever
guiMpe sleeves.
An immediate vogue, Which
must be recegnized, is the moire
silk frock, prophesied a style
leader for fall, Trimmings and
lines are kept as simple as possible
to emphasize the beauty Of the
fabric, which is speciallY lovely in
the' new greens, reds and lollies.
Sometimes two colors of the Moire
are teed, and there are flarea and
drapings and blousings and tie
belts of the material. The hem-
line MaY be narrova or •show
ripple, but the general impression
• IS of rine tailoring,
The TallOred Froek Of Wool
‘,.>:s.;* •
.a4igaa.
aa,asasa,
a4.'"aaa.a977.7-.4-/Pid/a9 • :A7,7.9e9/C/-1-47Ese".S,
ar-Caaaris."4-/P.47.,5-7a9/9/aaaaY7 aaakea.„13
•.
Inverted pleats provide the width
that so many demand, and inter-
esting:details, all in the tailored
way, abound. • In one..a bolero is
suggested, and a coat frock type
results, in a second tabs siraulate'
pockets, and the third is a'Wholly'
different ,coat. type. The sleeves
keep to the long., tight style that
one expects in a strictly tailored
model. In the model With a sima
ulated bolero, the hand: collar is,
used, the other • two models keep
to'the V-neck. •
CA/EC/1-470 .4//4/EZ
FUR FACTS
C
BE fur coat season is winter—
no one will take exception, to
•the statement, although there
are eager attempts to popularize
summer furs in short garments of
the sports type. But if winter is
the logical wearing time, then
summer is the logical buying time,
and, the thrifty woman recognizes
the fact. It is the dull season in
furs, and it is during such a
period that the new coat should
be decided upon or the old coat
made over or repaired. .
Fur sales begin in late July and
extend through the winter, but one
is assured of better value if she
buys in the pre -season sales, for
prices are more tempting, the se-
lection is greater, and one is as-
sured of more satisfactory. atten-
tion. The purchased garment will
be stored, free of charge, 'where it
isbought, and when the season
for furs arrives, there will be no
unsolved problem of price or kind
of skin.
The aurposes to which you will
Put the garment you buy will have
much to do with the choice, of the
fur. If you plan to wear It as a
utility coat—especially if rou
drive a car, you should not give
the more delicate furs a thought,
except of admiration! One sits on
A delightful little frock for be-
twien-SeaSon'use is carried out in
crepe. Originally straight of line,
it takes on an appearance of ful-
ness with its panels, that are held
iri'place'laY Pockets of embrolderY.
A. demure little turn -over collar is
finished, with a narrow tie, the
ends of which match the pockets.
Bishop sleeves with embroidered
miffs complete a most satisfactory
model that hints oa the future, but
is not. out 'of ,harmony with the
resent.
lasa,MaVa
vaaaaasaasast,
c 62-97- -
zssY,47.r r-s./x,--
To Finish Out
the Summer
one's coat and it is then subjected
to a deal of. strain, -when reaching
IT happens, not infrg
that one's well -laid Pleas do
not work out as intended, and
the planner finds herself, at the
beginning of ,a holiday, perhaps.
lacking some essential of her
wardrobe. From the middle •of •
August through to the middle of
October we are passing through a
transition period—sumnaer styles
are passing, and. a new mode is in
the xnalsing. So we look upon the
purchase that is to do duty during
this time in the light of leaven pe.,
a lump that is growing tiresome.
The spring coat and the little-
utility affair that will haveits uses
until extreme cold weather cornea
are of the mode that is passing,
Something smart and a, bit ahead
of the season-aso far as style de-
tails are concerned --will prove a
-welcome addition to a wardrobe
gone stale. It may well.be of a
lightweight fabric, for it will see
service immediately. But' it' must
bear all the Identifications of fu-
ture coat fashions, for in this way
only will it serve its purpose. ,
, Spring gave us many new and
interesting Ideas, which wIll re-
main in a modified form through
the fall and winter. There was
the cape-coat—the possession. of
such a coat is one reason for the
purchase of a lightWeight wrap,
for the double thickness of fabric
over the shoulders makes it a bet-
ter garment for spring and late
fall than for warm weather.
Tile advance 'showings feature
coats that are hem -length, three-
quarters or seven -eighths. Which
leads one to think, and correctly,
that there will be. a vaidth of
choice. There are cape coats -in
the new offerings, straight coats
with belts, the 'coat that fiares from
the shoulders, anal the coat with
the bloused back. The cape may
be a panel, or it may be sleeves,
or it may take the form of a wing
treatnaent Then there are scarfs,
so wide that they give the effect of
a cape as they fall in the back.
There are raglan cuts and
kimono sleeves and. yokes for
variety. There are some interest-
ing details of cuffs, collars,
pockets and border trimmings..And
there is a wealth of fur used for
trimming—and it is interesting to
note the colors that familiar Skins'
take on in the interests of har-
mony. The furs of themole and
rabbit type are dyed green, or bliie,
or any shade that you may prefer.
when it comes to the cloth of your
coat. Fox takes on bright colors
and the grays and beiges are
prominent.
For immediate wear nothing
could be lovelier than the pictured
coat. It is prophetic of the tela
dency to sleeves with a loose artna
hole, seen in coats of the dolman
and bloused -back type. It is alas
sentially a model for the slender
woman who finds the bouffant ling
not only intriguing, but becorhing,
Silk is the fabric, and fox the fur
—you will note specially tha
bloused back and the tightly 'belted
Waist, praetically Morita:1.
for gearshift and brake, and fur is
not a "fabric" with any give at all.
Mole, squirrel, and furs of this
type 'are not utility furs. The
muskrat coat of the gay collegian
is a sensible thing, but unless one
may have two coats it isn't a real
utility coat, for it Is not dressy
enough for the occasion at the end
of the trip in the car. In that
respect one may hold a bit of a
brief for natural muskrat, and you
will find, when you go shopping
for 8, coat of it, that it can be a
very lovely, withal a very prac-
tical thing. A good muskrat is
an investment, and you will find
that It is inexpensive only because
it possesses splendid wearing qual-
ities.
• The softer furs, like mole, sable,
ermine, squirrel and chinchilla are
costly in their first purchase, and
do not wear so very well. They
belong to the woman who rides,
not the woman who drives her
own car. clank wears well, but
genuine Canadian mink is .ex-
pensive --one can strike the bal-
ance, for you will readily see that
when a fur costs a good bit and
does not wear well, it is, indeed,
expensive, but if it wears splendid-
ly, it is not so expensive, after all.
Beaver wears well, and so does
nutria, the latter a South Ameri-
can fur that clothes a little beast
that is e, relative of the muskrat.
It is not as heavy a fur as beaver,
and tts into the prevailing mode
more attractively. We have be-
come very familiar in recent years
with the black fur that is known
as Hudson seal, and, it is, for all
practical purposes, except driving
a car, a splendidly wearing pelt.
But you should know it is really'
muskrat, sheared, dyed, and, care-
fully dressed.
Alaska seal, again appearing on
the market in some lauattities, is
very soft and beautiful and the
skins are -large—it is a fur that
Wears well, but the Supply is ex-
ceeded by the dernaed and one
must beware of imitations. It is
a certain fact that you must be-
ware of imitations, these days,
when buying any ittr, for any arii-
trial that wears a coat that will
hold together even briefly, is a pos-
sible sacrifice to fashion. • Leven
dogs—of the prairie dog tamily—
are ased.
There Is flair • for boats of
Persian lamb, earacul, broadtail—
even shaved lamb. There are many masquerade as the more Valuablg
grades and ninny shades in caracul brother that pessesses a steel bled
---but, the genuine eat -soul is realty fur, and Melt and kolitalry are
'Very rare. Leopard Skits are dyed to represent sable.
vogue, and smart enough for any Xolinsity aryl weasel are dyad
te
sports or utility purpose. But all represent marten or sable. Melt'
spotted skins are not 166pard, and may appear as sable, and 50 TilaY
you must be tare that yoll are get- kola:sky—nor 18 the dared Melt
ting what you are paying for,. coat InexpensiVel Bed aeX skins
Therefore, 1t'18 well to keep in are dyed to siraulate • the tare
Mind these facts concerning imita- shades, and what you rimy bo taire
tiota and sttbstitutions. Is a collar of white /ma may be
The dont of nutria, beaver Or onlY hart!, It IS tglite all right, it
Seal maY be winter rabblta, dyed you pay for an liatitatiOn and knoW
to imitate the fur they pretend to it 58 so—it lay be beautlaul
be. What you, fondly irraighle Is eriough to really deceiVe
caredul or Persian Iamb Ma,y be 8. being obstly--it is to guard against
cOnamOrt goat or eheera itt curly paying for a real fat and 'getting
• *toted with a permaneet an imitation that you shetild bUY
Arkin-4onsult an
credited atirrier. aXid salt AueStiOntill
CHE millindry mode is an ex-
cellent example of Perpetual
motion, for it is never pos-
sessed of even a 'hint of
staloility. The cloche was with us
the lohgest cif any one style, but
It- was •. constantly undergoirig
change, was warred. against Per-
sistently and finally succumbed.
For Many seasons tentative en-
deavors have been made to intro-
duce the large hat, whieh we know
by the general nate of "picture".
hat, and this season its sponsors
have been rewarded by a brief
season 'of this picturesque type,
Because it is yet summer, and
also because nearly every woman
possesSes a large hat, it remains
popular—one becomes pessimistic
or optimistic cOncerning its future
according to whether one likes it
or not. For fall will probably see
its passing, except in the 'usual
propertion of one in many. But
there are many clever tow modela
for rnidseason and between -season
wear, all of them taking on the
appearance of fall in either labrie,
trimming or both. 031Ven When one
irisists on keeping summer in her
heart as long as she can, there
Must be a hint of, winter.
For the hat, with a Milan straw'
brim wears a crown of velvet--
tarri-o-thanter wise—and there are
more hate Of mare silk, velvet and
felt, that of all the other materials
In the catalog. Melte la to be
featnred freaka„ this s,Ii—it 18
already appearing ori the streets-.
and the broadabrirnmed Indite hat,
exquisitely simple of line and cle.
tail, is a. Smart new fathiOn, sono
t he by the way of P,sale. And
For the type of dre88, that ia
meticulously tailored of nee as
well as oa WorkInanship, wool
fabrica stern te be approved its
preference
to a all Calibre, the
Model ,may be one' two Piece,
but wool IS the matetial, Three
inedela illustrate • the extremely
Simple dress that Will And a doter).
Uses in the late stuntner and early
fall Wardrebe. The three labriea
ahoW, vatiotisly; ,,diagonta check,
overplaicl and a pattern With
mer shades. Grosgrain, velvet and
.aatin are the favorite trims,
But you are somewhat interest-
ed in the real fall mode, so far as
• hats are concerned? Let's look
ahead a bit! There are scores of
small halts in the advance displays,
and they indlude 181111118r materials
used in clever and original Ways.
Summer has tentatively tried out
the velvet beret and found it good.
Paris loves . it and enthusia.sm for
anything smart is bound to spread.
The velvet of which it is made is
soft and lustrous, and the preferred
trimming is grosgrain ribbon.
If one may judge from the new
felt and velour hats, Paris is
stressing the crown at the most
Important part of the model. 'Ex-
tremely light weight velours arid
felt are fashioned lath many widely
different sha,pes by dents and folds
and pinched -in tucks. There are
crowns with a deal of height,' but
other crowns ignore it. There are
cloche arid ripple brims, and some
that siiggest a poke, although they
remain narrew.
The trimmings are tailored, Atka
the models "in toto" are designed
for immediate -wear, but they hint
of the season to come—rio mil-
linery style will "keep" long. If
yott would keep just ahead of
fasbidn; then ybti will have a smell
velvet hat in State one of the deep,
rich colors—Chatel red, oaltleat,
green. tt Will be tailored, this lit.
tie hat, With rows of stitelling,
e'haps and dertaltily grosgrain
band and bow or ornament. Vel-
vet will be important bah hate
ana ftbalta thiS tb amtaarfekIed lawoigth sle,tinasal:aitre stdryeaeidt aanhad
VelVet 0480111 •
8.11 a bardets •large hata be chiffon sorne,
The, Lacy Weave, Of Chenille Or
Crocheted Straw, Is Faahion'S
ralrorito
times,With a satin, urider-britn,' are
appearing at the smart teas arid
dinner dances.
Stich a hat is lovely with a sheer
frock of net, late or chiffon, arid
the, edge of the brim is very likelY
to be stitehed, relieving anY
severity that might otherwise re.
sult Trinitniage axe ample, a. pin
Of cryitel one of the suggested
erriamenta, A. sweat alternate is
thehat of felt very wide -brimmed
and simply triluMed. The crown
May be Plain dr draped, 'and the
coler, *hell it is net bleak or
White, Will be one of the Soft, Stara
1.:;;;1;:i., • ',;j1 ,;4.J .
sold for 'mink; coramort squirrell
•