HomeMy WebLinkAboutThe Wingham Advance Times, 1926-08-05, Page 5RID
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Section
If It's Really Tailored
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Apparel for the Smart Spirnrner Week -
End . . .
is 'a Pleasant:Pi-01in;---. Ac-;'
Cepted' Styles Are the 8. olufion"..
, . .„. . ,
IT is •open.season for the smart evening
ensemble
must have all its
?reek -ender who varies a sum- accessories and they are not a few.
marin town With a brief trip On.,the other hand -.tailored„ sports
tocountry or shore as a preface and semi -forms -1 ,attire may be so
to an autumn vacation. • To as „chosenthat, one set of accessories
ernble the .minimum of apparel will complement- both --you are, of
bat, will give .a maxim -urn' of serv-
course, interested in conserving
ce 'is not • a. simple task, .and the apace. A. case, of. the -wardrobe
woman' -who attempts it for. the type, an .overnight bag, and, .if ab -
.ret time usually ' . finds beiself solutely irnpeea.tive, ,a, hat-liox, is.
lacking'theverY costume she'needs,.a.,,,.._,. ,.the , 1 ug,gage, , ne ceaaary. •
inost The, result is' a.' holiday -
Epoiled, for while clothes 'May not ' For The CarnPing °Iitfit .
make"the womare-there• is rdom First, becauSe it is the s mplest;
for:argument here—they .oertainly and the'Ibriefest, we may consider
nossess the power to, take all the the outfithewoman week -end -
of life, or to happily,suPplY Ing.' in 'a' rustic .Canip, There is
twide-f.ound recreation in a holiday
Cmaltes every difference, in the •that takes one ante mountain fast -
'Ivo la -what destinatio'nyou plan. nesses;. lake -dotted, 'for .1thalthfel
requirements ter • a rastic spert'abounds, and one's wardrobe
camp, for a smart seashore colony, is; usually, Ofthe siniplest: It may
for ' ta,' mountain resort, are very Consist Wholly of carribing clothes,
diffearent, and what Will do for -one which are a mode in, theniselves,”
wilV•not do,for either of the other Rarely, if ever,'is theredernand fet
, , .
twoPJvan the .type of , sports anything:that savors of even ,seanis'•
clothes Will differ, and rules, formality. , • , •
thou'gh -they may not- be 'really But it is well„to remember that
rigid, are definite. And -to ignore there are degrees of•bectuningness
these rules makes the week -ender in these. smile' .camping 'clothes.
ridicalous, which. is, in itself, a The popularityof knickers is on
tragedy. •, the wane, and only the woman
you will have to decide first who'knows7that ;she is fa.scinating
whether formal clothes will be nec- in a knicker suit will. attempt .to
essary,' the- packing'', of • your- lim- wear it. The abbreviated skirt—
ited luggage is much simpler.,if with bloomer, or, ifyou. chooee,
they are not. This—because •the knickers Under it—and. the shirt
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and short -suit are approved -attire.
Tweeds and, novelty wools and
crash and linen are fabric possie
bilities—khaki is Orviceable, blit
hardly smart, and you mustbe
smart!
Sports shoes ofLthe nraetieal
type, wool hosiery, sweaters—
should do—that are light of'vveight
but warm, and'a sinart little hat
or two of the packable kind, these
are fundamentals. The feminine
note need not be missing, as a
matter of fa.ct your costume will
gain in charm if it is present. Your
attire is supposed to render you
service, butat need riot sacrifice the
daintiness that has come to be as-
sociated with attire, this seisdn.
For Shore And Country Club
• The utility •coat that you
appropriately to your carrip in the
hills—And serves you on your ar-
rival --isnot the wrap that prefaces
Your arrival at a club or a resort.
where:you will have a more.varied
demand for clothes. You will, in -
elude sports attire -of the most ap-
proved type, a semi -formal after-
noon frock for the tea hour, bath-
ing apparel, when needed, and an
evening gown, of the dance or Cor-
Sttininer _Fc)ottvear Positions
Cs' vHeFrly sduilffilnlereerntshfrooemofanly9t2h6inig
that was popular In the foot-
wear' line during the summer.
of 1925. If.there were subtle hints
•of styles to come, they' were lost in
the, maze of general..fashions, and
we' had little, if any 'warning of
Whatlhe • new ,mode held' irf'store
for us. But even the 'most critical
and ' the , most conservative of
women will grant the full 'meed. of
prase to the summer footwear
fashions that have been generally
a proved. •
. In
. .spite of inclement weather--
shall ' we say. unseasonable
sa,, ather—there were three noiable
trends early In the springeasbn,
,
,-,•, ," ' ' RePtilien ',leathers became vogue,
light„ colors Were ',everywhere, ',and
• the general styling,' of the models
themselves showed ' a tendency to
seek coolness. The reaulf.'is 'not
only a very different shoe mode'
but an eminently .satisfactory. ane,
and the charm of general'fashione
is heightened by shoe fashions -e --the
situation Works, bOth Ways. . •
Before analyzing: this; newest
style in Its' many Phases,. a word.
alipitt the black shee which has a
place in every well-rounded shoe -
wardrobe. It 13 • the practical
leaven irin somewhat exotic' hirnP,
for it is 'not out' of , place .in the
average ensemble- and it serves as
, an old reliable, liven in a Costume
. ' that is 'made tie' of the • grays,
beiges or pastels, many .vornen'ilrici
the black shoe an aecerithig tone;
matched,. as it so otten..is, by' the
ell -black hat.' :And some cif the
shoes in light colors wear trim -
mines of black,
Ti you Plan to ineltidea, single
- pair of black slides in yotir eelecf-
tion, your choiee may Well be the
opera, annrip, which ' posseesee a,
smartness that is always in . the
b ,st of taste. A costurrie,noted at
o 'Cent fa.shionable gathering in-
t cled opera pumps of,black satin
,. id a hat of horsehair trimmed
with satin ribborie-alt black, . The
prock 'wee ecriz lace over an orchid
eatin sgip and the stockings were
the color of the latter. A. sas:i of
Periwinkle bla6 ribbon—under the
lace—was finished with a bow and
ends low on the left side..
Appearing at the 'same gather-
ing, and illustrative of, the 'reign-
ing style, a printed chiffon frock
with delectable pastel shadings,
and worn over a slip of pale yellow,
was complemented by strapped
shoes of ' reptilian leather" .in a
beige' tone, .the accorrinanYing
hosiery the yellow otthe slip. And
again, the- hat was black, unre-
lieved. It is a charming fashion,
this matching the hose to the slip
of" the sheer frock, and the.tone
should be 'that of the Slip as it
appears through the fabric.. •
Summer has alway's filled the
shop windows with whith footwear,
filmost to the exelusion of every -
kaahlori Inclines To footwear That
Is • Net' Only Ceinfortah1e7 Rat
thing else. But this year it is dif-
ferent. There are scores of models
offered in white, but there are just
as many, probably more, •if an
actual count were taken, of the
light tones that are represented by
the grays and beiges. You oan
wear white .footwear- and 'hosiery
and be in the mode, but the soft,
pale tones -are newer, smarter, and
are more, adaptable to costume
ends..
There is yet anether vogue in
shoe 'fashions, ,this, especially, de-
signed in the interests of cool
comfort. . The If€Auville sandal—
not an absolute stranger by an
acquaintance of several seasons -,--
has come back In many colorful
models, featuring the low -or the
Cuban heel, Tan,. 'white, black,
red, blue and green are generously
uted'in this woven shoe,. and Some
very effective models are the result,
The woven effect' is, frequently,
combined with plain, or perforated
leather in the newest smartest.
versions:
Indeed, there seems to be a pro-
nounced vogue for smart footwear,
hand-woven by clever craftsmen.,
Attention is given to the moulding
of the model, and it is, therefore,
assured. There are some, wonder-
ful patterns, in regular checks of
varying eize, and many models
combine a coarse aveaVe with the
fine, as Well as colors and shades
of colors. There are Oxtords in
this fashion, but there are more
models of the strapped sandal type.
Since hosiery compliments shoes
a word concerning 'the former is
never out of place. The idea seems
to be chiffon weight stockings,
variations having to do With
,sheerness. One hears such„terree
as "chiffon -sheer" and "cobweb-
eheee" and the demand cat be
gauged by the fact that one can
match even the oddest Color' in
011ie Weight of chiffon hosiery, but
Will have the utinost diffieulty
perfecting a, match in Medium
Weight, "eXtra-service" stockings,
Takert from any and every angle,
footWear fa,shiorie , at
and dellghttn.4•
Mal variety, as the place dema.nda.
For the average woman there
need be only the trairel coat, sports
things that •may be used inter-
changeably ha the interests , of
variety'a- frock. in which to drink
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tes.,,an o,,order .
and one • evening dress. But 'the
problem of 'a :hat becomes im-
portant- when .the wardrobe as-
Sumea even this 'proportion, and,
a hat=box helps in conveying,small
accessoYies to supplement 'the
various costumes. •
The pictured , coat is :a most
usable. one, for while it ',possesses
simplicity it also possesses ele-
gance.- Its fabric is charrneen and
its color is gray—both very much
in the mode—and the secret of a
successful 'week -end 'wardrobe is
style of , the -accepted type. ,,The
rather elaborate design of braid
embroidery does not seem to de-
tract from the simplicity, and the
.fur adds elegance in just the right
degree. .
Sports Clothes Are Important
Whether one indulges in sports,
.
or watches others at play, the at-
tire connected with .the process is
important And, in'many places it
Is not unusual for the fashionable
woman to wear sports attire the
whole day through up to the din-
ner hour. If you are visiting such
a place, your problem will again
be simplified, for it will eliminate
the send -Perinea, dress with all its
complementing accessories.
' The model of- pleated skirt and
short, 'double-breasted coat is a
favorite with fashion. And the
skirt is beloved of the tennis 'play-
er who really goes into action. Blue
flannel, the 'coat, with goldhuttons,
navy fahsion; and it -can be worn
with ever so many different skirts,
If one pleases. Theclose little hat
is worthy of notice--it.is the type
that packs satisfactorily, and is
space conserving.
• There is virtue iri the all -white
costume against a summer back-
ground. of blue and green. But
'fashion' is considerate; this year,
and Provides the neutral, beige and,
pastel Atones for the 'woman who
find e dead white unbecoming.
White, rider over summer fashions
for as many years as summers
have been, is now coMpelled to
divide attention with these won-
derful new tones, that seem to au-
tomatically" become a part of the
outdoor picture, •
Both One And Two -Piece Frocks
If 'you a.spire, to variety in your
week -end wardrobe,' you must keep
the twoeplece dress in mind,. for it
assures you that 'characteristic bY
its interchangeability. Crepe de
.chine, Georgette, even chiffon are
possibilities, ,altheugh • the latter
packs less satisfactorily than either
of the other two. `Variety,can also
be achieved by the inclusion. of a
sheer dress in one's Selection, sup-
plernented by a 'Carefully •;chosen
gram of slips.-
Two models in crepe areShown,
illustrating both ,the one. andthe
to-pieet fasVions. They are a
happy medium between the dress
that is,, primarily, sports and. the
'rather elaborate semi4ormalfrock.
'The one-piece model is rather less
Of the sports type and rather More
of the semi -formal, While the op-
posite is true el5f the etnart. little
gowri that ".incliries. to . Scalloped
refiles and a frilly'jabot.,
The pletured evening freckWOUM
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be a wise choice for the woman
who -is not sure of the degree of
formlity required. 'It would prove
elaborate enough for any gather-
ing, yet not seem overselaberate in
a semi -formal assembly. Satin and
lace are itsfabries and its sPirit is
the fa.Vorite robe de style, achieved
by an' overskirt above a straight
slip skirt. The newel's, that bias-
soni, singly and in pales, are of
sheer fabric, creped,
DID YOU KNOW--.. • .
•
C
,, HAT 'colored leather coats are
vogue' for sports wear? And
-frocks ' of ' kasha " cloth show,
trimmings of the leather on juniper
and skirt? ' The leather Is applied
In effecilve appliqties - on the .for-
mer,, and bands the hem of the
latter. , -'
. THAT while We ' are wearing
chiffen, Fashion is experimenting
With fur? ,And anew fur fashion
includes the cape as a detail .of
the smart coats, hether fur Or
fabric. 'Since furs can. be „joined
in such a, way that the seam does
not show, the effect is exceedingly
smart and different.'
TIIA.T, you must, be very careful
what flowers you choose for your
suit or froelt and you must choose
a dower? . Posies made 'epf, chiffon
are clever ' on evening- gowns, two
carnations in two eoIors are best on
the tailored suit, 'and a lace freak
is lovelier for a iloWer corsage in
pastel 'thnee, .. ,
THAT suita;and coats': designed
for summer Wear are finding flan-
nel the very best fabric, for their
purpose? ..Spealelly 'Smart is the
flannel jaeltetWorrt With a pleated
skirt of 'crepe de hi -the former
bine or red'arld the latter *bite.
Fall Fabrics Appear
N inclement spring set us
thinking Of fall, in spite of
ourselves, even -before sum-
mer had officially, arrived.. There
have been times when it really
seemed as though We would have
need of fall and whiter fashions for
no other` reason than the fact that
we crave soniething; new and sum-
mer clothes seeined a bitunseason-
able.. Moreover, we are always
curious ',about the future of the
ever -varying, mode, „
We may confidentlyr expect old
favorites in an improved form, for
Improvement is ever •taking place.
There are surVivale and 'revivals,
always, • and each new. season is
better than the., last. Fall open-
ings are taking place, which means
that fabrics are ready, and lia.ve
been for tome time, since'they are
aPpearingin new Models sponsored
for a.utufnn wear.;' A brief survey
leads one to' the conclusion that
there -will he a -Wide choice with
certain weaves•and'eolors stressed
In the offeringi,of the couturieres.
' When. mid-season 'openings take
place, one • house will stress one
fabric, While • another 'house
stresses another, and a third house
yet another.But it h./livens that,
nearly all the " a,dvaiiee displays
show velvet, which would lead to
the inevitable.. conchision-that it
Will be a velvet season, It is used
variously bet coats, suits, frocka
end fin* ebat flnIrigs and Is im-
portant in the list Of trimlnings
and for eembination with other
fabrics. Brocaded lVet 18 Well
thottght of, anParezitlia
In the silks moire has been
gradually gaining; ground, and
there is an even greater use of it
in themodels prepared for fall and
winter. . It.seerns strange' that so
lovely a weave has hadsuch a
torturous 'progress' to. popularity.
Taffeta, which. lias been popular
for some months now, will continue
a high 'style' note, 'both alorie and
in combinaiOn wih chiffon and vel-
vet. Crepe satin: is prominent and
it deserves its promnience for it is
a most workable fabeio, alone or
with some other material.
Faille and silk Poplin appear, as
well as silk, marocelin, and we are.
sure that crepe de 'ehlte will be
generally used --to many crepe le
just -that and nothing.else. In the
sheer fabrics Georgette will lead,
because of its practical worth, chif-
fon will have no peer for evening
and 'forrnal afterndon frocks, and
tune %was present in, models frein
several of the *leading houses.
1V41etals, !handing the lames, laces,
moires and brocadeS will be a fea-
ture of 'evening'faehione.
Both fall and Whiter, suggest
woolen fabrics, and the range is
Vide. .In general they are eoftand
velvety, and since the fall mode is,
apparently, , to continue the full
altirt, they are supple, There are
many weaves of wool velour's, and
broadeloth has returned 'to' the
mode--ene wonders •how V411.
VF)iimsidal fashion ean.iiver Omit it
trem . the fabric roster. Iteps,
serges, zibelines and Poplin are all
lised 'in the new disnlayS,, and.
rayon With wool rriaktel intriguing
rioVeltY'rnitteriala,' ' "
Simple Lines And Smart; Just ,
Enough And Not Too Mach; The
Basis df The Tailored Mode
EVERY 'season a war is waged
between the.ferninine and thes
tailored costume, but. as seas
sons pass the war is less fierce,
for not only designers, but the peo-
ple for whom they deSign, are
corning to recognize the indisputa-
ble fact that there is room in the
mode for both. The average ward-
robe will hold its due proportion
of the simple things that are gen-
erally classed as tailored, and the
more elaborate things that we aro
pleased to call feminine.
There is a distinction, without a
difference, between thetas.° when it
comes to workmanship. If you are
classing only the severe suit or the
nitre -plain frock. as tailored, you
are assuredly in error, for one of
the most featured points 'hi a dee
scription of a fine frock is,its tailor -
'Ing, although ,the term is used
synonymously with Workmanship,
Our tenon-nal:1es originated in 'till
workshop of the sort that• raids,
men's clothes, and their severity'
demanded the utmost in line and
finish—it was so for years. Then,
subtly, a change crept in.
So there should be no donfasion
of ideas in regard to the two dis-
tinct forms of tailoring, although.
the tailored costume remains an
entity and its make-up is wholly
as ep:r:i from
ayanypossess.lerfectlIorn,00nfewnorirkd: ..,
manship that the serni-formal en-
lt beeoming,, there Is a.,.yast•arriount, o-
of chic in the severely Plain coat.,
suit or frock that is what is known,
curiously, as man -tailored.
The tailored ,garment will have
nought to do with ruffles and
frill, flutteeing ends, and details
kin to them. It is a thing of lines,
the 'simple lines , that demand '
meticulous tailoring and are lost
without it. Trimmings are con- 4•;
fined to braid and buttons and
needlework of the type, that we
know as "crow's feet." And yet,
inone respect, the tailored mode
has departed from its Original role
—fabrics incline, to elaborateness.
The suit materials that are gen-
erally accepted as belonging to the
tailored mode are the serges, twills,
tweeds and flannels, but recent/3r
silk and satin have joined the
ranks, and the workmanship of
suits of these fabrics is quite as
meticulous as that we find M the
more familiar offerings in men's
wear fabrics.
But suit, frock and coat are only
the •fundamentals of the tailored
costume4 •their charm quite fre-
quently lost in a maze of poorly -
chosen accessories. For headwear
and footwear, costume jewelry,
handbag, gloves and details of
sca.rf and boutonniere9nust all be
chosen, not only to harmonize bet,'
In the spirit of the tali -sired mode.
They must continue the simplicitY
—which by no tneans lacks in ele-
gance—that•dress, coat or suit has
begun.
Again there is &distinction that
is hardly a difference, for the plc.
hire hat With a single rose is, ad-
mittedly, simple, but it is not in
keeping with the mannish suit of
twill that features a braid -bound
coat and a. mannish waistcoat.
Simplicity is a synonym for the
tailored theme, but ail sbnplicity
is not tailored, which niay seem
para.doxicall The abseltite rage for
wide -brimmed hats makes 1t neces-
sary to set down a tentative excep-
tion to the rule of a small hat
with tailored things, but when the
former is worn it Must be simple
in its decoration.
By this is Ineaat the trimming
that distinguishes this most per-
sistent millinery Cashion. Large
hats are to be had in many at-
ira,etive shapea, trimmed with rib.
bon—grosgrain, satin moire or vel-
vet, but little else is permiesible,
save the Simple elegance of a pin.
These are the "tailored" picture
hats that many, are affecting for
wear with even the inost strictly
tailored 'costume—no question of
propriety seems to enter in—the
Popularity of •the large hat is over -
corning precedent just at this par-
ticular time. " ' .
But many Will cling to the small
hat of straw, felt -or fabric, its
trimming the utmost in simplicitY,
for it Is, after all, more strictly in
keeping with the spirit of the
mode. Shoes aro of the tete Ornate
tYpe,
and gloves, at the 'presenti
Writing, are, preferably Of the Pan-
da type—styles change frequeritflarl '
In this accessory, jewelry, ,SiyAldi
be of the ,simplest sort, tho n'tatif
is a correct costume cblell froo
quently matching' the het, lied'
hewer b011tdriniere IA 0,Pliteved,