HomeMy WebLinkAboutThe Seaforth News, 1956-10-11, Page 2^' C3`ozr svdottz,e P. Cletolse
And stilt the weather stakes
the flaws. Rain,, thunderstorms,
rain end sti1I more rairr. It
really makes your heart ache
to drive through -the country
and see field after field of
Fsgiring crop -standing in water,
the loads almost certainly
sprouting and matted together.
Our flats were flooded and
only a miracle kept the bridge
:from floating away. Now the
weather appears to have clear-
- although thunderstorms are
forecast again for tonight. We
hope the weatherman is wrong
—not. only on the farmers' ac-
count but • for the Exhibition
toe. This was the day we
:should have gone but• we just
couldn't face the tripe with so
Much humidity in the air. So
we regretfully stayed at home.
For me it was not too great a
hardship as I had had a won-
derful outing over the week-
end—an outing that was most
unexpected . a- trip to the
Lake Huron district where I
had never been before. •
Soni.) month ago friends of
Pretty -earpiece
lel Kriel 'It
'Ell, ENT -rlvt:. i'I:N'I
rr.
•
PATTERN
F,. " ME and AD-
-
r
s: d.
Send 23 cents
c,',. NCV ..
ours n-tentiauec'1 having been to
Kincardine for the weekend.
"Kincardine," I exclaimed. "I
have an old seliool friend in
Kincardine." 13 y comparing
notes we discovered that Mrs.
E. actually knew Nellie because
she lived almost exactly op-
posite Mrs. E's Kincardine
friends. Although it was quite a
coincidence 1 did not think
anything more about it until
last week when Mrs.. E, phoned
me; said they were going to
Kincardine again and would I
like to go with them. Would I?
There was only one answer to
that , question. I ltad looked at
the place -so often en the map
and wished I could tackle the
-125 mile -trip but I knew my
eyes wouldn't .appreciate driv-
ing that far. But with someone
else driving—that was another
story. We left here about seven
in the morning and got to Kin-
cardine -`about ten. The weather
was perfect—actually! -and there
was hardly any traliie at all
Kincardine is a very nice little
town. Clean, tidy, good stores
• and a fine residential area. And
of course there is the lake and
a wonderful t'reehnos s in the
air. T notieed this particularly
on the. Monday. Nellie and I
walked down town, leaving the2
kitchen stove alight. When we
got back the house was stifling.
j Had it been here the • house
wouldn't have cooled off until
night, But. there, with the doors
1 and windows thrown open the
1 the house was fresh and cool
In no time. 11 was wonderful.
One thing hampered our act-
: ivities, neither Nellie nor I had
a car to get around with so we
couldn't go any farther than our
two feet would t eke. us. One
mule in lance of our dependence
main neer wheels to take us
j round...D ring the night I even
tested with the idea of luring a
cer twat morning but - it didn't
• aseem worthwhile as we were
Is - tying about one o'clock.
11r fri a d hip with Nellie
fellow:, a rather unusual p Ir. ern.
tfin ::at side by side dtn•ine our
lest year at school, We both
r u•ried 1,7321:21i1:01 S+•••vie: nnc•n
;:TA WO both came t;' Canada in
1:„r some years we s'ri.,
t tali with h ,each other.
And then one tial' 1 'was reeeitng
-lie m n aknt P in the
;i.�b- ”. On; 1e,tter wasds'1ettie Muth:- -ii by
stnei
r. 1d is I had .i l.ncit it wee
My friend refile. i
t i ii+ nth - -care
,!-,1T
il tl:•:•:I t,3found my
eas .r.ht. V' sur: pni-
0!" 10,4 11
1 �,ei•
•
,(1 1 i ,t-..
-
;,1 ci : -
the
•i to the
_ei, - shirt
.'\r Ile, „ t eel bark
t.)147 c' Lott she
. thet 1 .., ,. m4. 51:11
rai Unci. -m dill wpb_
tie r:a ,zfl••
strr net until
-. est,=•It-i .
err t: -I
infir-
_ - In:. t.
fi:1p,
;11
ase i r itat�ci ;'al ,
ft 'n
tt-rae1,
h v°errs tlte� W 1"
timate the p.owee
1heir `nfluett .
thin:: Haven't
VACATIONING --- Curious: onlookers get a peak at Prince Rainier
and' Princes, Orrice as the royal couple stand on the porch ta'F,
gee l'aemer Miss Kelly's parents' surf -side summer home.
French
Act To
Curb Fes on Thc;zves Thtti•_n toured. Aurericrl bowing
them on - one-night stands.
The recent Paris fashion
openings marked the renewal of
fashion piracy, which -• ever
since the first mass advent of
foreign buyers after World War
I --• has plagued the Paris cou-
ture.
The gravity of t(iis problem
is, I find, little understood on
our side of the Atlantic. A col-
league remarked the other day;
"It's too bad the French can't be
more realistic about being cop-
ied," In her view the enormous
preponderance n -o w a days of
American fashions must have
rendered copying insignificant.
But actually a great number
of styles, which we think of - as
100 per cent American .designed,
first saw the light in some Paris
couture salon. A certain amount
of copying, of course, is legiti-
mate: the right to reproduce has
been paid for by the manufac-
turer. Copying however causes
considerable financial loss each
year to a large number of repu-
table American firms, as well
as to the French originators,
This being .the ease, a short
r nlo_., it e tae
.i:... pl uc usolet.
The pastel slog int.:1 tourtik
Eiszner n 5510:., pt,
ti:e A+ :11.i,; ltIn a alas':--,1-tot far
from 1/lei's pt .salt premise".
ht. early ;.Il';: pututu-
at^'1 with ado 'nitor" 1.-'x145
''The .'.oil, ni ..rt 1; porsonal
prop...,5ty 14. copy it to steel
and others in : imilar vein.
M. T out t. v ionnet's famous
nn formidable director t a• a
d'r of 11).- ti int 11',:!2.1J.11,1 copy-
,t,-_ and the deity press 4 n.4. only
ablawL 1 to ser t': a ns:w i-innnnt
• collection reverel works after
the ter t t,uwin ; 4V.'11',11 oxid-I -
tall, it :va:. 00 ti:, . to thy/0; Ir; t
001:&'S d c r it i the r•,,.
- liue:riou r;t•snhi:-ali
Teti 45.ver r. liter:;,
;in:' the -1 1, doer -arse
the 1i . hes b- ,1 !, n 11:
thes„,-4 really bud
+r .1 colli Ul 1.i 1in,.. E 1.--
'i: Cd i,rl'.Yt r11:. td: ui -
.i:r1; :gni
less. ci ayl-ic ,lel .,
an inattentive nem muuin's drone
under pretext of examining the
fahrie.
Paris was studded with mod-
erately priced dressmaker and
millinery shops in -whose back
rooms one could get the latest
Paris originals at a fraction of
the couturier's figure. They even
bore the couturier's own rritfe"
(the claw mark, as the specially
woven and copyrighted label is
called), which copyist purveyors
counterfeited by the yard.
Buyers' arrivals at the various -
Paris hotels were listed in -the
daily papers, and the lobbies
were haunted by young men and
women carrying brief cases state
fed with couture sketches and
samples. They waited only for a
nod to follow an unscrupulous
prospective customer into some
secluded corner to display illicit
wares.
As the time went an, fashion
bootleg gang: were organized.
Techniques wore perfected. 111 -
paid workers on the couturier's
own. staff were suborned.
Though personnel in "sensi-
tive" jobs were searched before'
leaving the establishment dur-
ing the period in which the col-
lection was being prepared, a
cutter, for example, could take
out a- de 'ten in hes head. At
hone he could make a detailed
working pattern with all indi-
cations as to execution, label's,
and color. This could be re-
duced to microfilm by an ae-
complice, despatched to foreign
manufacturers by air mail, and
Paris irinnvatintls might anneal'
in a bargain basement before
they made their bow in their
own designer's fashion parade.
Paris was periodically rocked
by some particularly flagrant
copy -scandal, which would
needle the couture into laking
special action. Indignation meet-
ings were held, fashionable vigi-
lantes alerted, copy housee raid-
ed. But nothing much was ever
accomplished principally because
the only legal penalty was a fine
-negh, ible beside the enormous
profits piracy nets the pirates,
The smell fry, caught by the
raids. did not even know the
identity of the "Big Shots," who
so gladly paid their fines. So the
racket would start over again in
new headquarters, vet iii
agents and new fare=
Thin war )tt t nn period
- when the Paris de:dem-Ts could,
and did, crack dowel et e r tet ly
on the ;tyle thieves That was
during World War 11 when the
Paris curate t'r cams 00e14'r mili-
tary control.
As one of thi. 1051,1) uou -
tri•r the dr - tainneee seee
subject 10 regulations for con-.
serving the nation: 1 rei.burce ,
the diceie.e being: headed h4 a
regular army rrr.rjur. And ou
3n0'her trout the designs' were
protected by the famed
"Deuslrnle• Ilu''1)14 nearert
French- ryuival151t In ihte FBI.)
The btiretm nit -teed .in becam-e
nonny (if Ile,, fashion piruto:,
who had I;ained 24 more
solid fooliop in the Prri. I.nc-
fur.... were German. And it w:ls
found Ihet scc'ret information
tv.:as being con:cved 10 the i.11
t•in1' borough eoetee disgrliscd 111
embroidery or
print patterns;
A e•ertein fashion photogra-
pher, for i)1 tanr•e, had been in-
stalled in Paris for 17 years. I -le
spoke perfect French and was
generally believed to be from
Lorraine. • He left Paris quietly
for a vacation shortly before
the declaration of war in 1939.
He returned in 1940 with the
then victorious German Aima
of Occupation, as a lieutenant
in a green uniform on a white
horse. This lieutenant was placed at
the head of censorship of the
Paris fashion press. He had a
complete dossier on everyone in
fashion—with a big black mark
against •the names of those who
had refused to use his photo-
graphs or had otherwise nffend-
ecl•hiin through the yeare. Ile
tool; pleasure in refusing to
parrs their articles, thus forc.•ing
them out of jabs, or even shut-
ting horde their publications.
But to r'etur'n to the pirates....
responsible for the loss to cou-
ture coffers '1 millions of francs
eseh sea -on were the niodel-
rrtrt=r '1414-0 w)s" ,tot. strictly
;pl'S isle. cnpt'i-1
They placed
big Order' fclr Pari:a originals at
teFp pries!. Tile c.nteft tar_ they
Tieket:- of admission. used to
be $100.00.. Manufacturers not
only of garments, but of but-
tons, belts, zippers, accessories,
textiles, etc, could for .that price -
sketch, handle, and copy as
much as they could remember.
Even when the couturiers dis-
covered what was happening,
they had no redress; what
model renters did with their
property in the United States
was outside their jurisdiction.
An known model -rent ore were
barred- forthwith from the top
Paris showings, Then they, too,
resorted to many subterfuges Co
obtain their merchandise.
A model renter was the ven-
tral character of a wartime
thriller•—sort of a minor Mata
Hari of the ruffle! This was
during the so-called- "phony
war," when the French and
German troops exchanged an
occasional -grenade across the
Maginot Line and life in Paris
was adventurous, but not yet
really hazardous,
One -model renter-- let us call
her Miss llorrowby--.alone had
braved possible perils to come
to Paris by Clipper and attend
couture .by
being held for
private customers. She hoped
no doubt to scoop the American
market with some unique Paris
designs for which she could -oho
viously command her 0511 prie•e,
• Miss Borrowby, whom I knew
slightly but not as a model rent-
er, invited me to Lunch. "Amer-
icans should stock together, these
days, there are sol few of us
- left in Paris," she said, "I ant a
boo e, your know,' she added.
"But I have no longer a single
assistant. You attend all the
openings anyway. It would be
a great factor if you would select
a rite, number., for me tet
1hen1 mile up in pone sive.
1 explained plained to her that as a
member of the working press,
I could buy oohing Inc resole.
Sh^-' let the matter drop sold' I
forgot all about her,
That is, until I received an
urgent call from Sehiaperclii
letting me 10 00 an exclusive
story. "Schist;', said -Miss Bm.-
row-by had tried to buy in all
the house, but had been turned
down, subsequently. a petite
Amreri - in night - club sinner.
performing in one of the War-
time "blued -out saes'." had nr -
dcrerl •:v'•rnl tVenin. 1.;ov:115.
For h Y ne•tehe said.
"s tush' made and delivered
them As 5 naothr e t routine,
she bed eheeked with 15)50-n
10l nr president, of this I':u'is
couture sy-ndrrStr. The girl had
got a nl.mbe•r 0f thin:,; there
also.
1'ttltLu-
investitiatieti elateeel.
that she had bought ill every
Ieadins 1 uturicr',; 1:'tl;tblish-
ITIOnt 111405' elnthc:, as 1.,eluntt
re•nl:trkod; Miano rho sen ld 451110•
for pay- for sed Of h r -41420.4 )
foe yeas,'- 1 tun1pruu,l had
aeoturert a smpir•i a= ..e ler tion
01 dayt.1111e outfit.:,
liar::'s where• the i? .;.Pule
Plus -mu wt tt Into 1,1iern, Th,
trail, Ird in �L:: fntratvhy's
hotel. •'They (e esminded it, but
!Hiss Borrow -by. mvstericne:.ly
tipped. off, hod 1'lievn, Literally
in a private. hired plane, head-
ed for Libeen and the horn-
bound clipper, Ueuxienu' Bu-
reau agent- tnllowed iu 0 brace
of fighters. 'rirere Wal, an ex-
c•il.ing tend closer ,;'
the Pyrenees,
The alerted Lisbon police
had no authority to detain an
American citizen. While- trying
to get it, they did manage suf-
ficient delaying tactics t0 pre-
vent Miss B's getting her dresses
cleared. The bureau men- ar-
rived just in time to see the
clipper disappear in the clouds,
the lady nn board. The loot was
piled- up on the strand. They
took it bark to Paris, •
It is such goings-on that led
to the severe screening of per-
sons attending the first show-
ings of Paris couture today.
These must present their pass-
ports and each one a special
identity card issued by the Paris
couture syndicate. One must
pay the "dedit," a deposit, be-
fore being allowed to view any
show, 1f a purchase is made, the
dedit is applied to it. If not, it
is forfeited.
At Dint's the dedit is $1,000
to see the clothes, a0o11Vm' $500
attains.t the lints. The minimrltn
in some lesser houses is $000.
For years the Pari;- couturiers
have been {eitalinfr, for fla
chcul;, til 11'reneh law to. include
a prison sentence for copying.
They have also been trying to
work out international agree-
ments, which would be 111 the
interest of reepeeted American
firm,, a:; well since it is obvie
ous -that the latter cannot sell,
for • "tea grand," a dumber
which may be on bargain coun-
ters before they can get it into
production.
Meanwhile the fashion thieves
have continued to come up with
new tfieirs. A smart "tourist"
may watch a style parade with
a n11SCrOSCop1C Camera conceal-
ed ie the handle of her slim
umbrella, One girl even car-
ried hers in a purse -sherd per-
fume bottle.
A designer for a Seventh
Avenue (New York) dress
manufacturer recently got into
some Paris couture shows on
what appeared to be a bona fide
press card. The Frenchmen had
no way of knowing that the
paper she "represented" was a
four-page, biweekly country
journal, which serves - a com-
munity of 300 registered voters:
The now thoroughly aroused
Paris couture syndicate and in-
terested American opposite
numbers are considering meas-
ures. to eliminate such incidents
-by establishing, for insanee
one or more principled ,.rest
liaisons in Paris, who would be
like Caesars wife, absotutele
above reproach, absolutely fah
in their dealings with both sides.
There may also be. a cmmmitt:el
to green applications for press
and buyers cards over in the
United State where extensive
and ac_iurate information au nee
plicants t., each to:enable. •
Thus, at long last, we may
look forward to Ihr finish of
- piracy in high i lsheon skies.
From 111' ( braless Seienee-
Mon i t or•.''
CYassa'Q,'a�r'i�:'F'::
Sheath --slim lines, combined
with your favorite classic stele!
Neat shirtwaist bodice; action -
back pleat below a graceful
yoke. Wonderful "go every-
where" dress for all your busy
daytime activities --•- choice o3
three sleeve versions for all -
seasons wear!
Pattern 4726: Misses' Size 10,
12, 14, 16, 16, 20. Size 16 re-
quires 41.1 yards 39 -inch fabric.
This pattern easy to use, sim-
ple to sew, is tested for fit. Has
complete illustrated instructions..
Send .THIRTY-FIVE CENTS
(stamps cannot be accepted, use
postal note for safety) for this
pattern. Print plainly SIZE,
NAME, ADDRESS, STYLE
NUMBER.
Send order t" ANNE ADAMS,
123 Eighteenth St„ New Toron-
to, Ont.
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2 tsps. Magic Baking powder
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eeee-
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Add dry ingredients to creamed b
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