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HomeMy WebLinkAboutThe Brussels Post, 1909-4-15, Page 7•3,1a1"�s..�a:ruaac 1's.;esa,ra.rdu,'w: s I ti FIC. B—A DASHING 1909 WALKING SUIT. AFTER EASTER—THE FLOWER LUNCHEON SMART fad, nowadays, for the entertainment of one's women frlende, Is to give a Hower uself' loon in the week following Eas- ter. -The buds and blooms most typieal of spring are chosen for tabledecora- tions, and the colors of these are car- ried .out in other ornaments, and as much as possible In soma dish served. For instance, red tulips, especially those In the tints whlclf hold yellow, aro flanked by tomato and shrimp dishes, poached eggs with apricot, and a salad, perhaps, of blood oranges. If the flowers are white, the decorations may match the delicate green of leaves and toothsome oak oma t idblta made o' [ white potatoes, mushrooms, celery, white lees or creams and angel cake. Effects as ravishing as simple can be had with decorations and favors of wild flowers 1n little baskets. The pur- ple wood -violets, which are in abmnd- anee In many districts at this time, blood -root, and hepatica aro some of thesweetest flowers used. Wild flowers are had for thepluck- 1ng 11 one lives near their gentle homes and What could be morecharming than to celebrate the return to life and Joy with tablas full o! the darlings na- ture showers upon uef A daffodil luncheon—the Very same yellow jonquhs which grows In your village or country garden -19 one of the Most radiant and happy which can be al 'en. 'Whor Miasmic afford the ex- travagance, decorations fqr thisbeet], with a table cover of yellow sateen in daffodil tint, The white table cover must bave- a !nee border to show this under one, as well as a centrepiece lace -edged, with a yellow eoundetlon of Its own. If the table 1s of ha0dsome mahogany, have it polfehed for the oc-. caslon, an. place each guests' plate upon a round of lade Or embr01dery-' trimmed linen over another of the yel- low. These pretty linen pleoo0, as well as the centrepiece, Which must match them, nonsttttito cover enough for a handsome table. Daff0dtls hailing fora tall vale to show offthe steins, and elicit leaves, wlileh arealmost: the most beautiful Part of them, 1rave this of glass, that all the 1OV0Ilneee may be se011 and place the Vase In the centre of the ta- ble. Glit-edged china, wltih e. pale green or yellow 0.uge, or even plain white, 1e a suitable 0holoo for the ser- vice, Atter thef plates aro laid, f0111 the nap111n0 In the farm 0f Co1OA, till then with three or ea tlatfodlle tied 1n a bunoh with .r bit da' green ilebon,' and place a cone across each plate. The flowers In them are the favors for the guests, each of whom pins her bouquet on her corsage with a green -headed. Ain Which 1s thrust into the napkin. If artificial Light is desired, candles should be In yellow crockery or brass stands. with the light softened with shade t silo s o a yellow paper. Four or six guests would be enough for a gay and' yet intimate moment,: and upon little cards, hand -painted with a stalk o1 daffodil, the names of each guest' could be printed in pale green, with capital lettere of yellow. All good stationers sell blank guest card s with roti wire' S pretty flower w r docora- teens, so these could also be bought and. 1. 3 name written In ink. However, since the compliment Ilea In the whole 'arrangements being the hostess' handi- work, It 1s Oar more graceful to get up the cards oneself, even 14 a line border in the two colors, yellow and green, is the only degree of art possible. The name card, placed beside the plate, In- dicates where each guest is to sit, A delicate and appetising menu for a daffodil luncheon could be as follows: Clear chicken broth. Parsley omelette or sweetbreads with green pone. Tenderloin steak with mushrooms. Orange salad. Pound cake, floating Island, black coffee and cream cheese. Besides theme fairly simple dishes, there Oould be various hors d'Ootivree, such as olives and malted almonds, and any vegetables inked, ora °hang() of meat. BrolIed thicken, etiunbs, or chope. could tape the place of the steak, and instead of the entrees here suggested a seasonable flsh with a white sauce eub- stltuted, But a word about my own menu; Everybody Who le able to give- a smart luncheon must knew that chick- en broth, to hegeed, must be of a clear amber and without gre00e, They sten 'know that "floating' !stand;" which the French bait oeufs a 9a neige. (eggs with. snow) Is ,madeof a bolted egg.custa rd poured otter sponge cake., With the dish ornamented with 1311 !owe 11es9 of the healon whites of the egg, Since the orange salad le not eetnnlun, 1 will de- scrIbe Its melting, The orenlres must he of the Haig gnid0n earl, te, and nal 1110 red 0o1') whf011would do for n re'k tulip. iune11' One, Wash them carefully. and efl„r polishing-: Die shine en themi le ,)led thin al100S. retaining the stcip,' Lay those 1n a glass bowl, sprlui111ng 3to1v• Mired suaar between every layer of Pp " e. aster EW TORI. has long bloomed with Spring styles, but t110 ceetumee Which Will 111r thomeolvos on Fifth Avenue to -day will domonetrato I. , on00 likely to- rule. - At the various private places where fine garments 'are turned' eUt, the eholoest cute for elegant gowns loan largely to Empire effect!, With theme charming draperies -for the delight- fully skimp designs are scarcely more than cove:Ings for graceful flgures— pale tints accommodate themeelvee, Tones in tan, ranging from a brown to a salmon 'tinge, are displayed by- a number of frocks, - Tho grays, though lighter, are still suggestive of the s .oke tint worn in the winter, and the gamuts in: violet and green Include too many shades, to be counted, Indeed, It looks as 1f every color, and every change of which it 1s Capable,: will bo worn, thougha species of nage is a specially smart green, and 01 um color and amethyst intrude among the Violets, ' Black and definite white, though seen. stand behind color. Fr' -Motes windowpresents the look of anaesthetic rainbow. Wh'oh means that, though colors rule, they are never strident, Over all is flung a gentle dllnnes0, as if brilliant hues Were veiled with a misty grey or stuffs had wept themeolves Palo somehow, In truth, all of Dame Fashion's moods lean to the sentimental this season. It is a pleas- ing quality and one always suited to elegant and fair womanhood. The material of a gown is 'blazed entirely by the model chosen..' All Em- pire effects .:call for textures soft in Hnteh, the sllks, satins and cloths used hanging with the limp- suppleness of 'chiffon. A nigh satiny gloss 18 a lux- urious feature of many of these mate- rials, and ate-rials,.and with: such rich textures go h: rtdsome laces and bead passemen- tarles of a superb sort. On the bodice oe a sago green Empire dress. which showed the Inevitable lace gulmpe and - undersleeves, was a passementorie which imitated the raised bunches and foliage o1 small 'white grapes. The dress Itself of chiffon over a slip of sago green messallne. Actual and simulated' princess effects are countless, thesepermitting more trimming of the skirt portions than the Empire models allow. It is only rarely, In fact, that the skirt of: an Empire dress Is trimmed, the general prefer- ence being for theplain effect, which` Increased the elaborateness of the bo- dice and accentuates the height of the wearer. To look tall and slim, 1f not truly so, is Fashion's first requirement, and after that, 1t 'must be confessed, magnificence rales the hour. Splendid passementerles of this grape sort and others 1n contrasting silk, or In tho tone of the gown, are the newest trimmings. Narrow ball fringes and plain silk ones of considerable depth. also have enormous vogue, while 0outackle, straight braid, and velvet and ribbon bands all have their usual place. For practical use the suits with beetle -back coats are very smart, These are made in plain cloth and ribbed, striped mottled and checked wools, and though a number of such sults show soutache or wider braid 8'F4"rtn tie SAW arvie,' odnla:tl?f Y.' i. ,0 ,:tx+lurdt,t'• 4i3.'.�,}ia orad r IU *-etennhie Styles trlmmingn, when well made and cot Off with suitable accesoorl 5, they are iilverlebly smarter when only'!titehed, The moot dashing 00 th000 suit dresses Meg' fit itself to many melnl-dross occa- sions, if the valet Were under the coat 10 Of a pretty not or milli, and hat, shoes and gloves aro of immaculate trmnees.. Therein, atter all, ilea the real 00 - settee of good 'dressing nowadays, One's Whole toilette must, be 1n harmonious keeping or suitably bolstered, and show, beeid00, that newness once so-eaorned, A run-down heel, or ripped. Urals, or shower-dlmrnod head piece will. Wreck tate finest costume even turned out, and knowing th16, careful dressers choose' to have many pair% of :fairly Inexpensive groves and boots and sev- eral hats, rather than a short supply of expensive things,• .. This .week's - designs show four of the new season's smartest models, A very beautiful gown, which may be made of cloth, veilingor of any of the numerous soft silks on trio. market, 1s shown In Fig, A, The Medal for title wan In one of the shades of - oldblue,' with trim- mings of soutache braid and x1111 fringe, and a chemisetto of net In a matching color overlaid with gold. The FIG. D—FOR SMART STREET WEAR. blouse is made over a smoothly lilting lining, and the high -waisted skh't can be cut In either two or three pieces, as it is.inade without a ft•ont seam. Many' departuroa' from the original euggeOtlonp are poeetble. icor iri0tanee, the ellemtselte could be of Wh110 lace, and insteadof the gold -which overlays 1',-a passonhenterle .Wild be used, or else the lege lett to show. It the chomleette 1e of whole laoe, with any motor for the rest of the gown, there Gould bo bodice touches of coral, bright green' or: Chinese blue, which Is a 11411 I decorative tint for trimming, But as to the gold, Bullion garni- tures, when the 4uantily 1s restrained, are very much the vogue, and there is scarcely a dressy French frock whose ooreage, et least, does not show the glint of gilt. -A necktie made of gold braid, finished with:a tassel of gilt threads and beads, trims the throat of trims a beautiful French gown. A typloal Spring walking -suit is rep- resented 1n Fig. B, Teas dashing little get-up, Whose ' -amort hat Is in perfect keening„ is made of ribbed wool suit- ing in oriel of trio wisteria shades. A some -Empire effect is given by the cut c'' the skirt, but 1t 1s the cutaway coat with Its bird -like tall which gives this suit the Spring dash, It could be made in any stout wool material which does -not show big figures, but In. a black and white men's cloth, with a white Panama hat trimmed with black velvet ribbon, 1t would be especlaily sty/1012and suited to many melte smart occa- slons, T13e little frocks. of Empire genre are shown In Figures 0 and D. Foulard silk in tones of faded violets achieves Pig. C, whose short waist -line is covert, by a soft girdle .of plain. violet silk. But with a violet; pale gray or pale brown 51111 the girdle could be of dim green, and 1f this and the little bodice pipings were of chiffon, there would be a gain in elegance, The ChernlsettO and tight under -sleeves are of all-over lace 1n a' deep cream, and 1f elegant material Is used for the gown, the separate gulmpe which these form could beleftoff for an evening occasion. Sage green pongee with soutache and embroideries In the same shade and a little vest of .black satin, are displayed to Inlg- D. ]3otvever, this smart design 1s oleo suitable for cloth, milk and the stouter ventage. and the cut adapts itself to both practical and arrant street use. With any 'color or material, the little vest which overlies the tucked white glilmpes should be of black satin as here, for while not quite as modish as formerly for entire gowns', black is still an emphasizing note of great distinc- tion. I,11na11y, let me draw your attention to the tightness of all the sleeves. 0181110 your new sleeves like them and your old eleven over to look ea nearly like them as possible, for upon the tightness of sleeves depends all the smartness of the present bodice. 0.s' ,••f APRIL SUNSHINE AND RAIN AS BEAUTIFIERS EAR me, what a lot of letters, all telling very nearly the same- thing—bad complexions! Tel 1 - Ira of chemical bleaches and poison- ous cosmetics, all vowing the writers have tried everything on earth, and yet not ono hinting of sun -baths and. rain water! Can a rose budand bloom In a cel- lar?. Can a Illy, which is eymbolical of theit s complexion, And it pure fa e t omple n, H s white within a choking pot In a stuff north parlor? May either one of them 1'-0 long with only chemical baths, showers of dust and /smears of grease? 1 c, Indeed! So 1f you want things changed, as to your complexion you must begin with soft water and sunshine—straight, warm, Southern sunshine at that. You must make arrangements for the un - falling supply of the rain water barrel, and if that is impossible, you must buy rain water o1 some city genius who h - built np a trade through this necessity to beauty, or should be made to see the need of 11 through Incessant demand. And after the rain water Is bought, If ,1t 'stands long In the seek, it must Invariably be filtered before a Crop of It 1s put upon the fano. There to no balm onearth so heal- ing, cleansing and beautifyingasclean, fresh rain water.. There is no Gom- pleielon on earth 'Which can keep Its bloom and beauty without fife-glvfng and gerin-lolling sunshine. For many skin diseases of a serious nature, physicians order the dally sun - bath, this lasting for quite three hours, slices; drench the whole at last with a good brand of Jamaica rum and add a squeeze or two of lemon Iulee le acid is liked. A dish made of g1•ape fruit, theflesh of this pulled apart and set In a nest Of tender green lettuce. Would also be capital and refreshing for the shine course. Only olive oil 01111111! be used on this, as the fruit. is 0p0lled by amid imon is. "Wine?" ameba/1y isles. Well,at n woman's Thinehenn, except In the ens0 of nage and fennel affairs. 1t Is not theu1ht goon tante 'in scree wine.' lint n light punch of fruit' ned genie 1101fettle nine may peas rent -ter, while What is lcunWn as a, "fruit cup,". n t moor gel l^ely of en Anus re:tot:ea Ire and water. emu)! ,.. eee ••+•ea209) and heal -bred bever- eae i as a matter of course. If the day is chilly, the patient may sit bolilnd a closed window in a well aired room. If it is balmy,. she must tape her sun - bath outdoors, .taking care to turn first one cheek and then the other to the direct rays so that the healing may be unleorm. .Suppose you do freckle, tan, even peel a little. The skin that peels' off will leave other cuticle fairer and more healthy; and are not freckles better than the unsightly commedones, blackheads, moth patchee—a skin so marred and 111, perhaps, that one le forever mortified? Remember thee, the tuberculosis 80rm, Which 1s the most Snelduous on earth may t Y even attack the akin.. Lupus, p a very dreadful skin dlaeaae Ss. traoed to this germ, and what 1s the cure for tuberculosis? Sunshine, pri- marily—three hours of direct sunshine kills the most energetic tuberculosis germ outside of the human lung—good food and air. The bestpart of the -- hes food must 'be taken through the etomaoh, and for the rest it must be well washed, aired and sunned. To those Nebo live in the country or • In small towns, a (supply of fresh rain Water is easily managed. Many a city roof, too, is so arranged that one pipe Is short enough to permit a bucket standing under 1t An exoellent cask for keeping the stale rain water to be used upon the face in a healthy condition, Is made In this way: .Set the cask or barrel on end, take out its head and at a distance ot about one-third from the battotn put In a false bottom pierced with holes. This shelf Is then covered with a layer of clean small pebbles, over which a quan- tity of charcoal made trona wood or bones and fine sand should be laid to the depth of an 'nob, and this 1s then covered with another layer of clean Pebbles, Over this filtering shelf another must be placed, pierced also with holes to prevent the water above rushing out too fast and disturbing the sand, charcoal, and pebble bed be- low. At the bottom of the barrel a tap la placed to draw off the water as we -ted, and except when taking On a 1 •w supply of its beautifying fluid, the rain water barrel must be kept tightly• closed. When using the water upon the face or hands have It only a little over blood warm—never acid or boiling hot —and for cleansing purposes use a Pare hygienic, - tar or motile soap. Cheap soaps are most harmful to the skin. In fact, It is poor ,judgment. that 0Oon0ml0ee on a rue soap, for a tenth' 01' the price 01,001 on repairing the damage of a bad one w111 buy a Soap guaranteed the world over for purity. Always cleanse the fano at night and !member that going even one night. wlthcut removing the d'ay's planter of Mtge and powder—or even the dust .t Peers life entails—is to take ton way from the health of your tom. lexion. The beet fee0-serubber lea %oft cloth f fine linen or the ends of 0111 silk ntlerveets, A hardy skin may stand: rubber nosh bras'., but the sensitive •• , needs a tensor touch, and for skins dually diseased a camel's hair brush SOntetlnies ne00000. ss' A !Menge is' Gln, for shwa not OIIC 111 11 million 1s' r0peely cleaned, all aro nests for rens s, r t a p 0 u 0 a Is p g :dill I?IG. C—A rOrULAR )OMVIRR MODEL, FIG. A—A GOWN SUITABLE FOR INFINITE VARIATION. Hats- eait f ti and Grotesque LI., of the Spring hats are no beautiful. There are some which Perch p i u o p n the bead like gro- tesque birds; there are Some which all but swallor• heads entirely, like broad bowls aver oranges, or candle snuffers over a farthing dip. Many there be among' the wearers who have bought ton soon and unwte i e and e Y, since !Dus- t!. Alen- n is the best 7e0sort, those who have still to buy will profit by the mis- take of others, No one style can be exploited as the rt„ht thing. The right hat 1s worn be' the right Woman, and If she is young and handsome and otherwise well dressed, she will look as if she has been crowned by angels. Fier hat will not seem a thing apart, but a part of her, a crown into which her well-c0130ed head will go with comfort, a brim which half conceals and half reveals her loveliness. Before trying on a hat arrange your hair as if for the most important func- tion of you. life. When trying it, re- main seated, and see that a triple glass will chow every side and curve of the structure: The entirely satislaetory hat is the ono that is lt1nd13' to the nape of the neck, the ears and jaws, as well a' to the fu11 face. '3e lnexoral:lo with tho things that tail 1., these artful ways, .otherwise the first tired day, yolhr accidental rettec- t.on In some street mirror will awake In you a murderous feeling for all millinery. Bats which g0 charmingly with walking gowns, and In some elaborate cases equally well with empire coe- t1mes, are the mushroom 011apes, Thom are trimmed smoothly and wide- ly, generally with soft scarfs around the crown, or What stands for It, and with a silo or front ornament in the shape of a great buckle, a tightly: massed Isnot of dowers or some eccen- tric cabochon of jet, straw Or painted Metal, One er two mushroom huts line for his saucer-blg ornament—far they ft: h O1lormo1l0--n great mini ed 18,11 twit whleh Wa.s sewn on through n button eye. Sone of the most ereenl:•1,' of the mnthrd011h a11 ties, ihost 1'1;11 r I„„ Or0Wn3 and ll.np brims Which hung low 0,00 the face, are delightful 011 the right Wearers, These solnetllnel, too, t are most simply garnished, a fancy osprey epringing from a big and novel cabochon, end three ornamental hat pins to,matoh the cabochon, constltnt- ln,; ih0 whole garniture. The fruit crop Is well represented by wide -trimmed hats. Cherries. apples, currants, gooseberries, pears and plume are all seen on the daring .French mil- linery, and though the fancy may seem foollah, the rrult-trimmed headpiece fa still very effective. Toques are very big, indeed clumsy, and the modish thing le for them to eft low down upon the head. Soma of trio straw toques designed for shirtwaist and other practical ac- crmpanlment depend largely, too, on a fanciful weaving and maiming of the straw for ornament. One very effec- t'ee straw ha seen for shirtwaist nee had a puff oroty0 dented in oddly here and there, and a dawn -dropping brim with a alight wave in the bottom line. This was trimmed with a crown band of black velvet, with a limp bow of the eun0 hanging directly over each ear. There Is one very Important require- ment for brim flats. They must droop 0011101Vuer0. even 1f 1tla not all around. Many pretty girls go by with "bowl” o• muehr0om hats, under which the pass-- gets , sly a glltnpse of a bridge of nose, r: prettynhoeth anti a dimpled chin. Such headgear is Tull of my0- tory, but then—•0111Y the young and lovely may Wear them. For those who 11avo fallen from the tree of Youth, and ar. not yet old enough for bonnets, a medium -mixed mushroom or a care- f .113• Chosen turban are the only things. 'Cede the n -ore splendid of the sea- son's hats, eueh s'0 would be worn with fine tollettee at smart 011m1110r resorts, or to gay hotel dinners in town, gold gau00 in dazzling wisps, caught by great golden 00000, nifty trim lace or drawn tulle 9hepes. 00101111 feathers of a long Ind precious tort aro also 1i11- mernus, a wet t as. 91 range made n1unles, cork reailers a1111 flowers of all (8,1910, Wane camellIs ar gnreer.lao, used 110 their tiri'alt foliage and elnsoly 111111 1 n , handsome nn turbans'. W1t11 t 1:•„ t ,f 1+. 1" 051,1. n'03'. a 11111, bees or 1u; el in of h111.,11 velvet ribbon taut at the other side 00 the hat wouldbe n^00sary, , .. -r.