HomeMy WebLinkAboutThe Brussels Post, 1909-4-15, Page 7•3,1a1"�s..�a:ruaac 1's.;esa,ra.rdu,'w:
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FIC. B—A DASHING 1909
WALKING SUIT.
AFTER EASTER—THE FLOWER LUNCHEON
SMART fad, nowadays, for the
entertainment of one's women
frlende, Is to give a Hower
uself'
loon in the week following Eas-
ter. -The buds and blooms most typieal
of spring are chosen for tabledecora-
tions, and the colors of these are car-
ried .out in other ornaments, and as
much as possible In soma dish served.
For instance, red tulips, especially
those In the tints whlclf hold yellow,
aro flanked by tomato and shrimp
dishes, poached eggs with apricot, and
a salad, perhaps, of blood oranges. If
the flowers are white, the decorations
may match the delicate green of leaves
and toothsome oak oma t
idblta made o'
[ white
potatoes, mushrooms, celery, white lees
or creams and angel cake.
Effects as ravishing as simple can be
had with decorations and favors of
wild flowers 1n little baskets. The pur-
ple wood -violets, which are in abmnd-
anee In many districts at this time,
blood -root, and hepatica aro some of
thesweetest flowers used.
Wild flowers are had for thepluck-
1ng 11 one lives near their gentle homes
and What could be morecharming
than to celebrate the return to life and
Joy with tablas full o! the darlings na-
ture showers upon uef
A daffodil luncheon—the Very same
yellow jonquhs which grows In your
village or country garden -19 one of the
Most radiant and happy which can be
al 'en. 'Whor Miasmic afford the ex-
travagance, decorations fqr thisbeet],
with a table cover of yellow sateen in
daffodil tint, The white table cover
must bave- a !nee border to show this
under one, as well as a centrepiece
lace -edged, with a yellow eoundetlon of
Its own. If the table 1s of ha0dsome
mahogany, have it polfehed for the oc-.
caslon, an. place each guests' plate
upon a round of lade Or embr01dery-'
trimmed linen over another of the yel-
low. These pretty linen pleoo0, as well
as the centrepiece, Which must match
them, nonsttttito cover enough for a
handsome table.
Daff0dtls hailing fora tall vale to
show offthe steins, and elicit leaves,
wlileh arealmost: the most beautiful
Part of them, 1rave this of glass, that
all the 1OV0Ilneee may be se011 and
place the Vase In the centre of the ta-
ble. Glit-edged china, wltih e. pale
green or yellow 0.uge, or even plain
white, 1e a suitable 0holoo for the ser-
vice,
Atter thef plates aro laid, f0111 the
nap111n0 In the farm 0f Co1OA, till then
with three or ea tlatfodlle tied 1n a
bunoh with .r bit da' green ilebon,' and
place a cone across each plate. The
flowers In them are the favors for the
guests, each of whom pins her bouquet
on her corsage with a green -headed.
Ain Which 1s thrust into the napkin.
If artificial Light is desired, candles
should be In yellow crockery or brass
stands. with the light softened with
shade t silo
s o a
yellow paper.
Four or six guests would be enough
for a gay and' yet intimate moment,:
and upon little cards, hand -painted
with a stalk o1 daffodil, the names of
each guest' could be printed in pale
green, with capital lettere of yellow.
All good stationers sell blank guest
card
s with roti wire' S pretty flower w r docora-
teens, so these could also be bought and.
1. 3 name written In ink. However,
since the compliment Ilea In the whole
'arrangements being the hostess' handi-
work, It 1s Oar more graceful to get up
the cards oneself, even 14 a line border
in the two colors, yellow and green, is
the only degree of art possible. The
name card, placed beside the plate, In-
dicates where each guest is to sit,
A delicate and appetising menu for a
daffodil luncheon could be as follows:
Clear chicken broth.
Parsley omelette or sweetbreads with
green pone.
Tenderloin steak with mushrooms.
Orange salad.
Pound cake, floating Island, black coffee
and cream cheese.
Besides theme fairly simple dishes,
there Oould be various hors d'Ootivree,
such as olives and malted almonds, and
any vegetables inked, ora °hang() of
meat. BrolIed thicken, etiunbs, or chope.
could tape the place of the steak, and
instead of the entrees here suggested a
seasonable flsh with a white sauce eub-
stltuted,
But a word about my own menu;
Everybody Who le able to give- a
smart luncheon must knew that chick-
en broth, to hegeed, must be of a clear
amber and without gre00e, They sten
'know that "floating' !stand;" which the
French bait oeufs a 9a neige. (eggs with.
snow) Is ,madeof a bolted egg.custa rd
poured otter sponge cake., With the dish
ornamented with 1311 !owe 11es9 of the
healon whites of the egg, Since the
orange salad le not eetnnlun, 1 will de-
scrIbe Its melting,
The orenlres must he of the Haig
gnid0n earl, te, and nal 1110 red 0o1')
whf011would do for n re'k tulip. iune11'
One, Wash them carefully. and efl„r
polishing-: Die shine en themi le ,)led
thin al100S. retaining the stcip,' Lay
those 1n a glass bowl, sprlui111ng 3to1v•
Mired suaar between every layer of
Pp "
e. aster
EW TORI. has long bloomed with
Spring styles, but t110 ceetumee
Which Will 111r thomeolvos on
Fifth Avenue to -day will domonetrato
I. , on00 likely to- rule.
-
At the various private places where
fine garments 'are turned' eUt, the
eholoest cute for elegant gowns loan
largely to Empire effect!, With theme
charming draperies -for the delight-
fully skimp designs are scarcely more
than cove:Ings for graceful flgures—
pale tints accommodate themeelvee,
Tones in tan, ranging from a brown to
a salmon 'tinge, are displayed by- a
number of frocks, - Tho grays, though
lighter, are still suggestive of the
s .oke tint worn in the winter, and the
gamuts in: violet and green Include too
many shades, to be counted,
Indeed, It looks as 1f every color, and
every change of which it 1s Capable,:
will bo worn, thougha species of nage
is a specially smart green, and 01 um
color and amethyst intrude among the
Violets, ' Black and definite white,
though seen. stand behind color.
Fr' -Motes windowpresents the look
of anaesthetic rainbow. Wh'oh means
that, though colors rule, they are never
strident, Over all is flung a gentle
dllnnes0, as if brilliant hues Were veiled
with a misty grey or stuffs had wept
themeolves Palo somehow, In truth, all
of Dame Fashion's moods lean to the
sentimental this season. It is a pleas-
ing quality and one always suited to
elegant and fair womanhood.
The material of a gown is 'blazed
entirely by the model chosen..' All Em-
pire effects .:call for textures soft in
Hnteh, the sllks, satins and cloths used
hanging with the limp- suppleness of
'chiffon. A nigh satiny gloss 18 a lux-
urious feature of many of these mate-
rials, and
ate-rials,.and with: such rich textures go
h: rtdsome laces and bead passemen-
tarles of a superb sort. On the bodice
oe a sago green Empire dress. which
showed the Inevitable lace gulmpe and
- undersleeves, was a passementorie
which imitated the raised bunches and
foliage o1 small 'white grapes. The
dress Itself of chiffon over a slip of
sago green messallne.
Actual and simulated' princess effects
are countless, thesepermitting more
trimming of the skirt portions than the
Empire models allow. It is only rarely,
In fact, that the skirt of: an Empire
dress Is trimmed, the general prefer-
ence being for theplain effect, which`
Increased the elaborateness of the bo-
dice and accentuates the height of the
wearer. To look tall and slim, 1f not
truly so, is Fashion's first requirement,
and after that, 1t 'must be confessed,
magnificence rales the hour.
Splendid passementerles of this grape
sort and others 1n contrasting silk, or
In tho tone of the gown, are the newest
trimmings. Narrow ball fringes and
plain silk ones of considerable depth.
also have enormous vogue, while
0outackle, straight braid, and velvet and
ribbon bands all have their usual place.
For practical use the suits with
beetle -back coats are very smart,
These are made in plain cloth and
ribbed, striped mottled and checked
wools, and though a number of such
sults show soutache or wider braid
8'F4"rtn tie SAW arvie,' odnla:tl?f Y.' i. ,0 ,:tx+lurdt,t'• 4i3.'.�,}ia
orad r IU *-etennhie Styles
trlmmingn, when well made and cot
Off with suitable accesoorl 5, they are
iilverlebly smarter when only'!titehed,
The moot dashing 00 th000 suit dresses
Meg' fit itself to many melnl-dross occa-
sions, if the valet Were under the coat
10 Of a pretty not or milli, and hat,
shoes and gloves aro of immaculate
trmnees..
Therein, atter all, ilea the real 00 -
settee of good 'dressing nowadays, One's
Whole toilette must, be 1n harmonious
keeping or suitably bolstered, and show,
beeid00, that newness once so-eaorned,
A run-down heel, or ripped. Urals, or
shower-dlmrnod head piece will. Wreck
tate finest costume even turned out,
and knowing th16, careful dressers
choose' to have many pair% of :fairly
Inexpensive groves and boots and sev-
eral hats, rather than a short supply
of expensive things,• ..
This .week's - designs show four of the
new season's smartest models, A very
beautiful gown, which may be made of
cloth, veilingor of any of the numerous
soft silks on trio. market, 1s shown In
Fig, A, The Medal for title wan In one
of the shades of - oldblue,' with trim-
mings of soutache braid and x1111
fringe, and a chemisetto of net In a
matching color overlaid with gold. The
FIG. D—FOR SMART STREET WEAR.
blouse is made over a smoothly lilting
lining, and the high -waisted skh't can
be cut In either two or three pieces, as
it is.inade without a ft•ont seam.
Many' departuroa' from the original
euggeOtlonp are poeetble. icor iri0tanee,
the ellemtselte could be of Wh110 lace,
and insteadof the gold -which overlays
1',-a passonhenterle .Wild be used, or
else the lege lett to show. It the
chomleette 1e of whole laoe, with any
motor for the rest of the gown, there
Gould bo bodice touches of coral, bright
green' or: Chinese blue, which Is a
11411 I decorative tint for trimming,
But as to the gold, Bullion garni-
tures, when the 4uantily 1s restrained,
are very much the vogue, and there
is scarcely a dressy French frock
whose ooreage, et least, does not show
the glint of gilt. -A necktie made of
gold braid, finished with:a tassel of gilt
threads and beads, trims the throat of
trims a beautiful French gown.
A typloal Spring walking -suit is rep-
resented 1n Fig. B, Teas dashing little
get-up, Whose ' -amort hat Is in perfect
keening„ is made of ribbed wool suit-
ing in oriel of trio wisteria shades. A
some -Empire effect is given by the cut
c'' the skirt, but 1t 1s the cutaway coat
with Its bird -like tall which gives this
suit the Spring dash, It could be made
in any stout wool material which does
-not show big figures, but In. a black
and white men's cloth, with a white
Panama hat trimmed with black velvet
ribbon, 1t would be especlaily sty/1012and suited to many melte smart occa-
slons,
T13e little frocks. of Empire genre are
shown In Figures 0 and D.
Foulard silk in tones of faded violets
achieves Pig. C, whose short waist -line
is covert, by a soft girdle .of plain.
violet silk. But with a violet; pale
gray or pale brown 51111 the girdle
could be of dim green, and 1f this and
the little bodice pipings were of chiffon,
there would be a gain in elegance, The
ChernlsettO and tight under -sleeves are
of all-over lace 1n a' deep cream, and
1f elegant material Is used for the
gown, the separate gulmpe which these
form could beleftoff for an evening
occasion.
Sage green pongee with soutache and
embroideries In the same shade and a
little vest of .black satin, are displayed
to Inlg- D.
]3otvever, this smart design 1s oleo
suitable for cloth, milk and the stouter
ventage. and the cut adapts itself to
both practical and arrant street use.
With any 'color or material, the little
vest which overlies the tucked white
glilmpes should be of black satin as
here, for while not quite as modish as
formerly for entire gowns', black is still
an emphasizing note of great distinc-
tion.
I,11na11y, let me draw your attention
to the tightness of all the sleeves.
0181110 your new sleeves like them and
your old eleven over to look ea nearly
like them as possible, for upon the
tightness of sleeves depends all the
smartness of the present bodice.
0.s' ,••f
APRIL SUNSHINE AND RAIN AS BEAUTIFIERS
EAR me, what a lot of letters,
all telling very nearly the same-
thing—bad complexions! Tel 1 -
Ira of chemical bleaches and poison-
ous cosmetics, all vowing the writers
have tried everything on earth, and
yet not ono hinting of sun -baths and.
rain water!
Can a rose budand bloom In a cel-
lar?. Can a Illy, which is eymbolical of
theit s complexion, And it pure
fa e t omple n, H s
white within a choking pot In a stuff
north parlor? May either one of them
1'-0 long with only chemical baths,
showers of dust and /smears of grease?
1 c, Indeed!
So 1f you want things changed, as to
your complexion you must begin with
soft water and sunshine—straight,
warm, Southern sunshine at that. You
must make arrangements for the un -
falling supply of the rain water barrel,
and if that is impossible, you must buy
rain water o1 some city genius who
h - built np a trade through this
necessity to beauty, or should be made
to see the need of 11 through Incessant
demand. And after the rain water Is
bought, If ,1t 'stands long In the seek,
it must Invariably be filtered before a
Crop of It 1s put upon the fano.
There to no balm onearth so heal-
ing, cleansing and beautifyingasclean,
fresh rain water.. There is no Gom-
pleielon on earth 'Which can keep Its
bloom and beauty without fife-glvfng
and gerin-lolling sunshine.
For many skin diseases of a serious
nature, physicians order the dally sun -
bath, this lasting for quite three hours,
slices; drench the whole at last with a
good brand of Jamaica rum and add a
squeeze or two of lemon Iulee le acid
is liked. A dish made of g1•ape fruit,
theflesh of this pulled apart and set In
a nest Of tender green lettuce. Would
also be capital and refreshing for the
shine course. Only olive oil 01111111! be
used on this, as the fruit. is 0p0lled by
amid imon is.
"Wine?" ameba/1y isles.
Well,at n woman's Thinehenn, except
In the ens0 of nage and fennel affairs.
1t Is not theu1ht goon tante 'in scree
wine.' lint n light punch of fruit' ned
genie 1101fettle nine may peas rent -ter,
while What is lcunWn as a, "fruit cup,".
n t moor gel l^ely of en Anus
re:tot:ea Ire and water. emu)!
,.. eee ••+•ea209) and heal -bred bever-
eae
i
as a matter of course. If the day is
chilly, the patient may sit bolilnd a
closed window in a well aired room.
If it is balmy,. she must tape her sun -
bath outdoors, .taking care to turn first
one cheek and then the other to the
direct rays so that the healing may
be unleorm. .Suppose you do freckle,
tan, even peel a little. The skin that
peels' off will leave other cuticle fairer
and more healthy; and are not freckles
better than the unsightly commedones,
blackheads, moth patchee—a skin so
marred and 111, perhaps, that one le
forever mortified?
Remember thee, the tuberculosis
80rm, Which 1s the most Snelduous on
earth
may t
Y even attack the akin..
Lupus, p a very dreadful skin dlaeaae Ss.
traoed to this germ, and what 1s the
cure for tuberculosis? Sunshine, pri-
marily—three hours of direct sunshine
kills the most energetic tuberculosis
germ outside of the human lung—good
food and air. The bestpart of the
-- hes food must 'be taken through the
etomaoh, and for the rest it must be
well washed, aired and sunned.
To those Nebo live in the country or
•
In small towns, a (supply of fresh rain
Water is easily managed. Many a city
roof, too, is so arranged that one pipe
Is short enough to permit a bucket
standing under 1t
An exoellent cask for keeping the
stale rain water to be used upon the
face in a healthy condition, Is made In
this way:
.Set the cask or barrel on end, take
out its head and at a distance ot about
one-third from the battotn put In a
false bottom pierced with holes. This
shelf Is then covered with a layer of
clean small pebbles, over which a quan-
tity of charcoal made trona wood or
bones and fine sand should be laid to
the depth of an 'nob, and this 1s then
covered with another layer of clean
Pebbles, Over this filtering shelf
another must be placed, pierced also
with holes to prevent the water above
rushing out too fast and disturbing
the sand, charcoal, and pebble bed be-
low. At the bottom of the barrel a tap
la placed to draw off the water as
we -ted, and except when taking On a
1 •w supply of its beautifying fluid, the
rain water barrel must be kept tightly•
closed.
When using the water upon the face
or hands have It only a little over
blood warm—never acid or boiling hot
—and for cleansing purposes use a
Pare hygienic, - tar or motile soap.
Cheap soaps are most harmful to the
skin. In fact, It is poor ,judgment. that
0Oon0ml0ee on a rue soap, for a tenth'
01' the price 01,001 on repairing the
damage of a bad one w111 buy a Soap
guaranteed the world over for purity.
Always cleanse the fano at night and
!member that going even one night.
wlthcut removing the d'ay's planter of
Mtge and powder—or even the dust
.t Peers life entails—is to take ton
way from the health of your tom.
lexion.
The beet fee0-serubber lea %oft cloth
f fine linen or the ends of 0111 silk
ntlerveets, A hardy skin may stand:
rubber nosh bras'., but the sensitive
•• , needs a tensor touch, and for skins
dually diseased a camel's hair brush
SOntetlnies ne00000. ss' A !Menge is'
Gln, for shwa not OIIC 111 11 million 1s'
r0peely cleaned, all aro nests for
rens s,
r
t
a
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0
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a
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I?IG. C—A rOrULAR )OMVIRR MODEL,
FIG. A—A GOWN SUITABLE FOR INFINITE VARIATION.
Hats-
eait f ti and Grotesque
LI., of the Spring hats are no
beautiful. There are some which
Perch p i u o
p n the bead like gro-
tesque birds; there are Some which all
but swallor• heads entirely, like broad
bowls aver oranges, or candle snuffers
over a farthing dip. Many there be
among' the wearers who have bought
ton
soon
and
unwte i
e and e
Y, since !Dus-
t!. Alen-
n is the best 7e0sort, those who
have still to buy will profit by the mis-
take of others,
No one style can be exploited as the
rt„ht thing. The right hat 1s worn be'
the right Woman, and If she is young
and handsome and otherwise well
dressed, she will look as if she has been
crowned by angels. Fier hat will not
seem a thing apart, but a part of her,
a crown into which her well-c0130ed
head will go with comfort, a brim
which half conceals and half reveals
her loveliness.
Before trying on a hat arrange your
hair as if for the most important func-
tion of you. life. When trying it, re-
main seated, and see that a triple glass
will chow every side and curve of the
structure: The entirely satislaetory hat
is the ono that is lt1nd13' to the nape
of the neck, the ears and jaws, as well
a' to the fu11 face.
'3e lnexoral:lo with tho things that
tail 1., these artful ways, .otherwise the
first tired day, yolhr accidental rettec-
t.on In some street mirror will awake
In you a murderous feeling for all
millinery.
Bats which g0 charmingly with
walking gowns, and In some elaborate
cases equally well with empire coe-
t1mes, are the mushroom 011apes,
Thom are trimmed smoothly and wide-
ly, generally with soft scarfs around
the crown, or What stands for It, and
with a silo or front ornament in the
shape of a great buckle, a tightly:
massed Isnot of dowers or some eccen-
tric cabochon of jet, straw Or painted
Metal, One er two mushroom huts line
for his saucer-blg ornament—far they
ft: h O1lormo1l0--n great mini ed 18,11 twit
whleh Wa.s sewn on through n button
eye.
Sone of the most ereenl:•1,' of the
mnthrd011h a11 ties, ihost 1'1;11 r I„„
Or0Wn3 and ll.np brims Which hung low
0,00 the face, are delightful 011 the
right Wearers, These solnetllnel, too,
t are most
simply garnished, a fancy
osprey epringing from a big and novel
cabochon, end three ornamental hat
pins to,matoh the cabochon, constltnt-
ln,; ih0 whole garniture.
The fruit crop Is well represented by
wide -trimmed hats. Cherries. apples,
currants, gooseberries, pears and plume
are all seen on the daring .French mil-
linery, and though the fancy may seem
foollah, the rrult-trimmed headpiece fa
still very effective. Toques are very
big, indeed clumsy, and the modish
thing le for them to eft low down upon
the head.
Soma of trio straw toques designed
for shirtwaist and other practical ac-
crmpanlment depend largely, too, on a
fanciful weaving and maiming of the
straw for ornament. One very effec-
t'ee straw ha seen for shirtwaist nee
had a puff oroty0 dented in oddly here
and there, and a dawn -dropping brim
with a alight wave in the bottom line.
This was trimmed with a crown band
of black velvet, with a limp bow of the
eun0 hanging directly over each ear.
There Is one very Important require-
ment for brim flats. They must droop
0011101Vuer0. even 1f 1tla not all around.
Many pretty girls go by with "bowl”
o• muehr0om hats, under which the
pass-- gets , sly a glltnpse of a bridge
of nose, r: prettynhoeth anti a dimpled
chin. Such headgear is Tull of my0-
tory, but then—•0111Y the young and
lovely may Wear them. For those who
11avo fallen from the tree of Youth, and
ar. not yet old enough for bonnets,
a medium -mixed mushroom or a care-
f .113• Chosen turban are the only things.
'Cede the n -ore splendid of the sea-
son's hats, eueh s'0 would be worn with
fine tollettee at smart 011m1110r resorts,
or to gay hotel dinners in town, gold
gau00 in dazzling wisps, caught by
great golden 00000, nifty trim lace or
drawn tulle 9hepes. 00101111 feathers of
a long Ind precious tort aro also 1i11-
mernus, a wet t as. 91 range made
n1unles, cork reailers a1111 flowers of all
(8,1910,
Wane camellIs ar gnreer.lao, used
110 their tiri'alt foliage and elnsoly
111111 1 n , handsome nn turbans'. W1t11
t 1:•„ t ,f 1+. 1" 051,1. n'03'. a 11111, bees
or 1u; el in of h111.,11 velvet ribbon taut
at the other side 00 the hat wouldbe
n^00sary, , ..
-r.