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HomeMy WebLinkAboutThe Brussels Post, 1908-3-12, Page 1fur Paris Letter PARIS, heli. 2e. THE8 '1 woather here has taken on a hint of spring and the feminine Mind of the Parlelenne is. greatly agitated over the modes for the "deml•ealson"; ter what Is more aiin- Cult to decide than costumes for this time, when the weather le unsettled and the fashions aro as yet but ar- ranging thomselvea In the droughts of the groat couturiers? The burning question at the present is the tunic, which held • its place of Vantage for 00 abort a moment and has now given place to the skin-tight skirt for afternoon and the extremely simple little "trotteurs" for the morn- ing. "On dit," that it must bo but a pass- ingfad that afternoon dresses and "pantalona" cannot remain popular for aurnmet•. - costumes and only the very ail ghteet women can attempt to wear them with suooeaa anyway; but here it 1s, this snaky skirt, while In oven the find cversklrte the trim- ming and bias bunds, instead of dip- ping in front, are sloped to the back. Happily the extravagantly large hat hoe become "de mode," and the toque Is reigning ' favorite. White swans- down and: marabout aro the latest fanny; for they may bo Worn till late. spring, while fur must bo discarded earlier.Military faehlons are return- ing—tbo dashing hussar aigrettes, the Military collar, the heavy brass but- tons, the stiff braided vest. With the departure of tho "cloche" hat tho .hair dressing has returned to Its former state of comparative plain- ness. Even side partings are "comme 11 Taut" and tho irrelevant curls so much the rage ars no longer soon. Tbo peasants may keep their hair. In fact, the greetextravagance has brought about a return to great sim- plicity. Frenchwomen no longer dis- figure thalr feet with the long -toed shoes of two months ago, but again adopt the natural size. Smartest boots have tops of antelope de suede and pat- ant leather vamps, whllostockings are worn to match the tops. A gown recently seen, destined for an afternoon reception at tiro Elysee Pal- ace, was Of soft fawn -colored chiffon Velvet, the skirt long, plain and very tight; the corsage, high -belted, of course, was composed of silk filet lace Insertion in the same shade over white and bands of fawn velvet embroidered with silver thread. The enwrapping Bash of liberty satin, the girdle d'A1n oe, was attached upon the side according to the latest fashion, and fell in ono end fringed with silver. With this creation was worn a Mag- yar toque of fawn velvet adorned with a full hussar aigrette In -tones of brown, naught at tho left aide with a small rhinestone buckle, ELOISE. Tho costume - described above would be ideal when made up In voile, for the season is now too late for Velvet. The silver embroidery could then be well omitted and darned net could take the place of the filet Taco, It Jo now too late to indulge In such toques as velVot ormarabout, but Rome charming hats may bo made of net, and straw toques are increasing in popularity ey- ory day. The Hungarian aigrettes are not those. feathery affairs popular for so long; they aro much stiffer and heavier, and aro far- neater than the fancy -plumee. recently worn, American women never did taite up the fashion of wearing shoes three sizes too large, but tbo colored tops for pat- ent leather boots are extensively worn, and they ere really mostattraotive when the cloth matches the salt. How- ever, the women of Franco never at any season wear the half shoes that we adopt so early in the spring, and 1t is for this reason that the cloth tops will never become universal in this country, for we, with our pumps, wear any shade etopking that sults our fancy. . eeetres New Girdles MOST of the new high belts are finished In one long end with a tassel. This idea Is carried out even in morning drosses, voile or pon- gee, and 1e becoming to the average figure, particularly as the new semi - princess dress: is so much the rage, The belt et present Is not fastened directly around the waist lino, but slightly above It to give the skirt a very long line In front and on the sides. Some dresses Ot light materials aro finished in front directly below the gulmpe In a large bow of the material, This Se het unattractive for very e11m figures, for it adds several inches to the bust measure. Thera will be, owing to the present increasing popularity of the gulmpe waist, a decided leaning toward the very low line of the corsage; for It is becoming to every woman, and the gulmpe will add whatever Is necessary for the sake of modesty. Decolletage, however, can be overdone, and those who wish to keep the pretty gulmpe In vogue must do all they can to see that it le not abused, for a peculiar thing about fashions Is, thatthe moment any one line is overdone a reaction Is sure to come. hiidren's Coats and Frocks From Fi CIE French modlatee are particu- larly clever In deeIgning finite for little girls that will carr out g y the Idea shown In the reigning .0o0blan, and they still maintain that Ie1mp11elty of line necessary and appro- priate for little tots. In the illustration shown today the single-breasted out - WILY Jacket, the pleated eklrte,.thepanel %rants, the long shoulder line and the button trlmmtnge aro all shown, but adapted to the size and age of the little wearer, A smart little suit of white or scarlet serge le fastened down the front wish three brittle buttons, and le pet with ct round hem at Cho bottom of the eent. Tho shirt is side pleated and the jacket le trimmed with a narrow 'souteehe braid, The White hat Is simply adorned With'A. how of ribbon to match the suit. A more dressy little frock is that et light blue linen, with -a gulmpe of patfete or allover embroidery, It la, In eptte of Ite appearance, very easy to matte, and the result is .charming. The linen hat is finished with a draped crown to match the little dress, A suit of plaid and navy blue cheviot Is cut in quite the latest Style, wbetber far mother• or big sister, It Se made with a Very long -waisted sheet, and the hope neat is trimmed with small braes buttons. The plaid 10 of shadedblues, and the calfs and collar of the jacket are finished hi bright green velvet, The basin hat intended to wear with the Sufi Is trimmed with yelVet to match the collar,. A pink linen with the mikado aleaves and pearl buttons from shoulder to hem is worn withcollar and pndereleevea of baby Irish lace. The front of the skirt in finished In a box pleat with the belt at each aide, so that the front line Is unbroken. Tile dress !s a fascinating design for quite a little girl, and the White canvas hat, with a knot of soft Pink ribbon, g1Ves a complete look to the Costume, All 00 the models given are very elm - pie, and the two lltt1e dresses are just enough modification of a Russian blouse tomakea distinction between frocks for little boys and girls. Instead of using allover embroidery and lace for the gulmpes, they may be batiste or tucked handkerchief linen, and 12 pearl buttons aro not used, wooden forme covered with ' scrape of the dress material may take their place. The little white suit would be most ate tractive If made up In some darker tab. rite and it would then be tar more serv- iceable, while stitched bands of Itself Snlght be substituted for soutache braid. trig. The little plaid dreee would be a most Attractive style for a checked gingham jumper, to be worn with a reefer of blue serge, with collar and cuffs of the same. Slats for children of this size are moot useful when made or canvas and lined with linen to match the 'suit. S'or that matter, the hat may be all white, with only a change in trimming, a bow or a knot to match each 'costume of the wardrobe. Colors on. Lingerie Dresses THE now white dresses shown in the shops have some touch of color In embroidery or lace, but the alIoyer em- broidery coats trimmed with lace are pure white. These are very useful to wear In the late afternoon, and, while they could not be accused of being warm, they do add a certain air oe dressiness to the toilet. e/2,b,We 1 ,00e')12, 845 drive) T1010 newest idolises are made of every conceivable shade and ma- terial—chiffon, silk, satin, filet net —and all of them have Introduced some - Where In the decorations the omnipres- ent fall of lace or material named in Pars the jabot. A blouse of violet chiffon Is finished in front In three deep tucks, which at both sides of the frontbreadthis bound In satin and the -jabot of lace is intro - duped, The Same 'Idea is carried out In the undersleeves, while the yoito of the blouse is made of the lace used tomake the jabots. A blouse of blue chiffon taffeta is trimmed with fleet net, covered with a design In bands of silk, while the linen underblouso is fastened tram neck to Waist with a jabot. I'tgives the same effect as the ruffled white blouse of just a year ago, except that the middle pleat on this new creation is but one-half Inch wide. In epealting of last year, both the jumper and ruffled blouse are combined in these: latest valets, which fa shown by the last 111ustratlen. This is made of white taffeta, heavily embroid- ered In white silk flowers, while a band of net, covered with orchids, holdsthe shoulder strap together at ' the frost. This shows the jabot in the ruffle of the ,t11.ajj0rl1!Ouse, while the tinybuttonsused down tho front are covered with taffeta' and finished around the edge with a frill of lace f3wisi L1J1ALIJ'P OX'1HAiS, All of the elaborate b1ouk a of the 11 1pstration aro beyond the power of the home dressmaker. But a little tngenulty can atcompllsh Wonders, and a repro• duction of model garments does :not, necessitate an exact copy In materials., Tho rleslgh of any of these blouse. may be castled out in gotten, 0artlrr,ttarly the ono trimmed with dmf-eeIdery. This Svalet would b0 cho+:"nflg�Made ef dotted swtes, the wide, 'dance of the shoulders, done ht v^,;tt3 embroidered linoh.. Tho ?tUcltllg down the trent is ter.. sale In try shop at little cent, tike other two a ire d 1 dlfilt y oma e n y Or lawn—in far,r, ''' powered dimity would be a nharnetig binding far tite blue "waist—and Qgialtclerrn0e lace iS net an expensive itrtiel°, Tito v' clot walsi, lo really designed for Ohlna atlirr and por1padottr ribbon alight be r. Ad ata to trimming, malting the un- ,I.�(ug 5.»/•f Iv/h' Yoke oxlarvto derblouse of lawn. Filet net. too, might be used for the foundation of any et the eyelets, gi41(7751/140 egdUe/nrirooesla_tA Few women realize what really bean- tlful effects may bo obtained •by using Hamburg or machine embroidery. The only important point is to see that the material for the foundation Is fine and of good quality. Of course no ono 000 expect to use any of this year's models unless one 1s willingto do most of the sewing by hand, for this is the one little detail that makes a blouse, Odd Combination in Spring Suits WHITE, that beautiful and al- ways becoming color, has gone out of fashion, for in the new cloths shown for early spring stripes and huge embroidery dots have taken Its place, and even white linen sults Willnot be worn this year. Of course all of the suits .such as have been worn will be discarded for dresses with guimpos and cuffs of white lana and Eton jackets of some contrasting color or material. Thus a white flan- nel skirt will be worn with a striped three-quarter Jacket, or a blue -and - white stripe linen semi -princess dress will be finished witha coat of dark blue. This new fashion will be very convenient for those who wish' to wear the same coat with several dresses, but Itis not so becoming as the whiteof last year. Some sults are made of the natural pongee, with the skirts of the plain Shapeiaembrroideredeby hand in laargo black dots The same Idea can be carried out In sults of voile oreven mohair, and, atleast, if the fashion le Peculiar, It is new' and smart. HugeDesigns in Vogue for Spring g-�LOWERS for the spring hats are 1F-1 of. the most enormous size—huge roses and unnatural morning- glories—while even pansies have a forced look to which the real flowery never attain. It la' a most remarkable reversion to hats of some time ago: Such mod- est blossoms us forget-me-nots, rose- buds and violets will find no place in tho fashions of the year,but calla linos, Easter illlos and hydrangeas will be in great demand. This same mammoth fasts, also seems to have Influenced the designs of foulards and chiffons, for theseason's designs aro out of p1troportion—g1- gentle, in fact. The little old-fashion- ed prints have given place to huge bunches of orchids and sunflowers. It takes many tucka and pleats to re- duce the size of the designs to human form. A costume for spring garden parties Is composed of a small toque trimmed all round with huge sutrilowers and a filet net dress with a huge design of becoming Blaster lllles, embroidered In heavy white floes. It- looks at a dlstanoe like a costume for a giantess, but when worn the effect Is original and good, Evening Gowns ' SO. MANY of the new evening dresses show the influence of the postilion jacket that 1t has -be- Come a. very Important thing to have lace drapery around the back and hips. The jacket runs over the shoulders and dawn'. both sides of the figurealmost Close to the armholes. It necessitates all of the evening dresses being made with a square -neck. Tho dresses under the jackets ere mate princess, but many of them Deng quite loose in front, and aro only ;tell close to the figure by a gold braid bolt fastened each stele of the jacket .and tied 1n a knot In front, allowing the ends to hang to the knees. To give the necessary severe line and breadth to the shoulders,folds ot velvet are Used, which curve from the waist line 1n back to the waist line In front. Tileso bretelles are sometimes as Wide as eight laches, no: that they give, breadth to the shoulders and that smell,' appearance' to the waist that the alum- ey folds of the Mae coat almost chili orate.. ow that circular. Skirts have re- tuned with 40011 fetto u1a r N favor, those woman who have MAN and elreeses made 'with' the ordi- nary gored sltirta,� seed crushed with their ntlsfortune. What shall We d07 they cry. "Tide' suit le too good to throw away, yet how can I dieguta0 these aw- Throe models to hide the old-fAsltlott- ed amore are shown teday13 each or thole requires the addltiolial purchase of the mhtitnum of material. A11 of these al• low for 'a circular rale, Th the first modal'thu seams are ripped, the breadth 1 nearest the front la turtled, two pleats ere mad of new matettal and, eat in, and all aro stitched tothe hip lino, It a clronlal ruffle. 'finishes the Write, graduated bands et braid may be used to hide the joining, but the straight dace 1001t better ..Without any break between them, so the second method may be used to hotter advantage. In title Pelee box pica is, of now material, made with the • midget of the s - laid g t a good , are over the aroma and idler-titOlds ere Man on the 11en1 of the radio and around the hot, 13avd 4t. 45attO,02 i°Desvi-eve toot. Thio method enables the shirt Neo to be lengthened both at tile li0ttom and at the top of the runic. A panel effect le addled by false tucks beginning close together at the waist line and exlon�cling I.e it curve around the line of the rutile, The 11tt1e straps rimy bp added eerose the front if desired; also Cho brakt'. arnund tho In all et the Models shown new mate- rial is required, If it is fmpeeelbin to welch the old Skirt, then 0Omt ether material may 0lr0 11eed, providing it is of. the same Shade. Veto Snstan04, In the first model broadcloth may be used to alter the velvet slcirt, or oven pleats of taffeta,. In the second, if It is impossible to to, Mtn material to exactly mateli flint of the attire acme other variety may be used It Ito plate. The third inedt1 situate be altered with t aterial to match, otherwise the Talmo wonld look nut of Placa. of 0111rge, In 010 rrrrursi100 al nn even.. Mg drone Jaen or chiffon rimy always taste the material, taco of t a rossa As torthe lines 0f the shirt, the first and second models aro most appropriate for omen women, while Cho third model would have the effect of shortening the figure and Is therefore only desirable for a tall woman or a woman of average height. The beside added at the, foot 0f iha skirt mite' be mewl to lengthen tho baelt, for In some Cages last year's drosses were hot as long as the skirts of the latest style. Three other models will ba shown next' Week sag eating Ways of altering gored elcirte Wlthou Match, w f r equlring material to Melon Bonnets B-ta11Y daps Lor spring are made of throe pieties, cut like the sides of a circular triangle and sewn toe gether with a fancy stitch or a strip of lace insertion,• Sometimes_the scalene over Cho face and at the bacit Of the neck are made of dotted swlse, While the middle section !s 0f baby Irish lace,. In other cups all three s0etiona are of fine nahrsock, but the. middle section Ss VOrheaJ!vilb0c0my ern11rIng to olderedtri. This new headstyle 1s o baby's , and brings the joining 0f the etetiOns Just behind the ear, so that whatever Moe Is used as. trimming Will converge toward this point. . A very attractive nap nnibe made ofaltovbr embroidery, 'using vatr clones insertion between hee0tle s , mac foe tory plain 1 0101e bend line. may,, by nand, tvta little. hlo 0 dm- breiv er ter �t d y nun the lace. oOl 1, Dap; 1e iii r rover nn n melon Onn t o It rt vol bids fair to become lite reigning favorite .'.in vOnilo faalrloillr.