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HomeMy WebLinkAboutThe Wingham Advance-Times, 1985-10-23, Page 25Help your Heart... Help your Heart Fund THE DEMPSTER HIGHWAY, the only public road to -cross the Arctic Circle in North America, winds across the Eagle Plain that lies between the Ogilvie and Richardson Mountain ranges in Canada's Yukon Ter- ritory. (Canadian Government Office of Tourism Photo) fi • t.. • kF; Crossroads—Oct. 23, 1985—Page 1B Canaia'sacross 1ghway the Arctic Circlf �. By Tony Sloan It is safe to say that more people have read about the Dempster Highway than have actually travelled the road. The De,mpster is that dis- tant and mysterious road that Loads north across the barrens from Dawson City, Yukon, to Inuvik in the ex- treme north west corner of Canada's Northwest Terri- tories. It is the only public road in North America to cross the Arctic Circle. It even extends 329 km beyond it,, The highway follows ap- proximately the same route taken by the Royal North- west Mounted Police dog team patrols around the turn of the century. In fact, the road is named after Corporal W. J. D. Dempster, who, in the winter of 1911, searched for and found the frozen bodies of the tragic "lost pa- trol" who had perished while en route from Fort McPher- son to Dawson City. It was again in winter and in this same area some 50 years ago (Feb. 17, 1932) that a man known locally as Al- bert Johnson — the mad trapper of Rat River -- was the object of one of the most gruelling, bizarre and publi- cized man hunts in history. After weeks of travel and pursuit across a winter - darkened arctic 'Wilderness, Albert Johnson was finally gunned down in the snows of the Eagle River. Violent death and superhu- man feats of endurance are the stuff of legends in this WED., OCT. 23 to SUN., OCT. 27 BINGEMAN PARK 1208 VICTORIA ST. N., KITCHENER FREE PARKING • DAILY DOOR PRIZES • NEW PRODUCTS • ENERGY CONSERVATION IDEAS • NEW DECORATING IDEAS • CONTINUOUS DEMONSTRATIONS • LATEST IN HOME FURNISHINGS e 300 Exhibit Areas • Two complete buildings of do-it-yourself ideas CKOL GRAND PRIZE 51500 COMPONENT STEREO SET "fkgra 540.411.0, s uA'N gir-# ' ` :4,7 -Pt r'! _.i ;, ,�; ,�7il Y *: r Fe ikd aW �� < 9 51>k�ti 4PC` �' = `•"3 ttas" '571 :;. , . 6 '85 Hornehow . Feature Attractions • Daily Family Sportswear Fashion Show • Models from Gemini School of Modelling Wed. -Fri. Evenings at 7:30 p.m.; Sat. & Sun. Afternoons at 3:00 p.m. • Home Security Seminar by Waterlo eg1 1 Police (Evenings at -7:1 - p.m.; Sat. & Sun. at 3:30) • Microwave Cooking School Thurs.-Sat. Evenings at 8:00 p.m. • Ministry of Energy - Computerized Energy Conservation Exhibit • Real Estate Know -How Seminars • Drywall Application & Finishing Demonstrations • Wall & Ceiling Stucco Applications• Power Tool Demonstrations • Woodworking Machine Demonstrations • Billiards • Play the CHYM "Wheel of Fortune" 6 • 9:.;t'4.7.i044V, 2Gi ;7o fuVaieP3 z tNr. ' �•kwfi'8'J :i: a�.; r .. w ` ;t . M. Wi?h i k i51$ v?R 3P8k':h ��??ldti Ys* .ntJu(t7'3s . FAt lint itfAik?i'Al*ANO$A3ilDaf{$,jikIi4ibFlKWATIM"rMa SHOW HOURS: ti WednesdAy and Thursday C to 10T=m ii..... ay 3 t© 10 p.m. . Saturday noon to 10 p.m. Snday noon to 6 p.m. ADMISSION t-dtrfts- Golden Age $1.00 Children under 12 Free - SHOW FOR ALL SEASONS" •tea: ah'G+ A lonely northM land. We had driven the KI dike Highway from Whi horse to Dawson City, Yu (536 km) during the day after a check on road co tions in Dawson, we ba tracked to overnight in Klondike Campground al the highway. After breakfast and phone call or two at the Kl dike River Lodge, at junction of the Dempster a Klondike Highways, we top- ped off the gas tanks a turned north on the Dem ster. My companion on the t was Tony Carson off Whi horse who had done a g stretch off the route t previous summer. "Legend has it," co mented 'Carson, "that Dempster was built out off o arrowheads because off wear and tear on tires. We keep our speed down to km and we'll be alright. I when'you barrel along at 1 that you get in trouble." stream and all surrounded on- by snowcapped mountains in te- the distance. This is the kon great barrens plateau be - and tween the Ogilvie and Rich- ndi- ardson Mountain ranges; it's ck- called the Eagle Plain. the ong EAGLE PLAINS HOTEL a Other than the road itself on- and the occasional 'highway the maintenance camp, this is a nd land of vast vistas with no sign off human life. The nd Eagle Plains Hotel.then, l when it appears atop a high ridge in4he distance, may be rip mistaken for a mirage at te- first glance. Located almost ood halfway between Dawson he City, Yukon, and Inuvik, Northwest Territorjes, your m- initial reaction upon arrival the at Eagle Plains is, "how did ld a big place like this get built the in a place such as this?" 11 The complex, including a 65 coin-operated laundromat, is caters to the immediate 00 needs off the long distance northern wayfarer. We took the opportunity to wind dry our tents, take a break from camp cooking in al_ the well appointed dining re ' room, flake out in freshly P- sheeted beds and wile away ce a relaxed hour in the lounge s where we were entertained e by a duo of balladeers sing- ing suitably lonely songs. t Refreshed and refueled, e. we set off for the. next point of • geographical interest 36 e km north of the Eagle Plains ° Hotel. Here we crossed the Arctic e Circle — the fabled but ors imaginary line that circum - d scribes the frigid zone and d holds a special enchantment for explorers, navigators 11::and travellers since the years of search for the Northwest Passage. t A large, but not overly im- . pressive sign allowed us to. duly record our crossing. on e film. Since crossing the Arctic Circle, particularly by road, is a unique e�tperience for most travellers, it was felt a more elaborate "gateway" was warranted to lend suit- able drama to • the ex- perience. The.. mighty Peel River was crossed via ferry (no charge) and we toured the settlement of Fort McPher- son before stopping for lunch at the scenic Nutuiluie ' Campground on the outskirts of town. Patrol atrol Outfit t ters offer boa tours up the Peel River in addition to sell- ing freshly smoked fish and regional curios from' theh base camp right at the ferry crossing. Owner -operator Neil Col- lins is a Loucheux (pro- nounced Loo shoe) Indian and as an irrepressible story teller, is regarded., as the resident historian in the Peel OFFICIALLY OPENED Highway was offici ly opened in 1979 and as mo facilities such as cam grounds come into servi the trip becomes a little les of an "expedition" into th untracked northern wastes. The road, in spite of'recen rains, was in good conditio We did encounter a slipper stretch or two but Carso drove cautiously and ex perienced no problems no did we encounter anyone -els in difficulty. Positive fact were a suitably rugge vehicle and an experience arctic traveller. . Names such as Pea Sou Creek and Scout Car Cree were noted and passed be fore stopping for lunch a Tombstone Mountain Camp- ground. . . The bulk of Tombston rises above a heavy growth of mature spruce trees and the rushi and sparkle of the Klondike River provides suitable sound effects and crystal clear water for coffee or tea. Facilities in this pretty spot include Outdoor privies and campsite's equipped with picnic tables and stovettes. Wood is supplied. Campground permits cost $5 in the Yukon Territory and are obtainable at Yukon Visitor Information Centres in most urban areas and a variety of- commercial es- tablishments. Garbage. attracts bears and this applies to the Demp- ster Highway campgrounds in particulae. Take'all refuse With you to the next com- munity for to leave it behind would only invite 'camper - wildlife confrontations if the animals learn to associate campgrounds with food. . We camped at Engineer Creek Campground,, just short of the Ogilvie- River. The rains had swollen the fast -running stream adja- cent to the camping area to a brownish torrent. The sedi- ment didn'.t detract from the quality of the water for cook- ing purposes but it zeroed out any attempts at fishing. Beyond the Ogilvie River, the highway begins a steady climb skirting the Nahoni Range of the Ogilvie Mountains. The high, barren ridges offer long distance views of barren land border- ed by distant snowcapped mountains. We were' still making the ascent to Eagle Plains when a cross fox dashed across the road. This brown -grayish animal with a blue -black cross on his shoulders and back and tail tipped in white looked almost gaudy in his coat of many colors. Ducks were in evidence near roadside ponds. More common were pomarine jaegerswho flew up repeat- edly from the road surface. upon our approach'. The road now led across a land of low shrubs, huge, rolling hills interspersed with ravines and valleys, here and there a pond or Include us in your plans _.11.yo.u're..plann�ng wedding, plan to visit vs first for wedding stationery and accessories Listowel Mount Forest Milverton Wingham . River Country. His boat tour up river to themonument marking the final campsite. of the "lost, patrol" of 1911 is a most memorable ex- perience. Another toll-free ferry car- ries you across the mighty Mackenzie River within sight of the town of Arctic Red River. From here, it's only a few hours across the tundra to Inuvik. - Picnic and fishing sites such as Pengling River, Caribou Creek, Campbell • Creek allow the Dempster traveller to pull off at . regular intervals for relaxa- tion and ightseeing. Inuvi",:, 'th a population close to000, offers every- ing rom rontier style hos- pitality to continental cuisine. You may either camp in the suburbs or avail yourself of hotel accommo- dation. My Inuvik address while in . town was the Mackenzie Hotel on Mackenzie Road directly across' from the Sir • Alexander Mackenzie School. Inuvik is Located in the delta of the Mackenzie River. The long, lonely Dempster Highway goes no further, Inuvik is also the end of the road. 291-1660 323-1550 595-8921 3572320