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HomeMy WebLinkAboutThe Goderich Signal-Star, 1976-10-28, Page 53Insulation -the Almost all- insulation- is lightweight and easy to handle. Few •tools are needed, but care should be taken when you're working, with mineral fibre -type insulation. Small insulation particles can cause skin irritation and it- ching. It's 'a good idea to wear gloves: And a shower at the end of the day will wash away particles left on the skin. When you're ready to start in the attic area, pull ona pair of running shoes and watch your step. Walk only on the ceiling joists. Most ceiling surfaces under the joists are plastered; too, much weight will puncture the : ceiling. Boards laid across the joists will. give you a sturdy working pllatform To cut batt,or rigid in- sulationuse a sarp penknife or -blade. Lay .the insulation :'on a flat surface for cutting: Any accidental cuts in . the vapor barrier should be taped. . before the insulation is finally• applied. A heavy-duty staple gun is essential • for applying batt insulation.. You -should be able to rent o e ' from your in- sulation sillier or hardware store. . Measure your wails, and floor and attic area carefully. Once you've decided on the R value you need, talk over your requirements with the dealer. He'll 'help^yogi. figure out the right number of bags or_ bundles of insulation. It's bulky, so have, it deliver -ed;. Store- it in a dry place until you're ready to start to work. Since warm air • riaturally rises and tries to escape, the ceiling is a- major source of. heat loss: Fortunately it's -the easiest place to add in- sulation.. It . deserves first rityfor re -insulation (or ofitting') an . existing home or insulating a new one. Goodceiling insulation will return ` fuel savings _ of bet- ween 10 and 30 per cent depending on house type and existing insulation. First, find out the condition and depth of insulation already in your attic: Some older homes have none; most have a small amount a 2 inch or 3 -inch mineral fibre. batt — and this may have settled or become water damaged.. • You should have a ceiling R value. of 20 or more,' which • 'means at least 6 inches of insulation. If you have less - than that — say a 3 -inch batt —' you should upgrade it in one of two. ways: Add a further 3 inches of blanket insulation.. You don't need a, ,vapor • barrier because there should be one already onthe ceiling. Buy insulation that comes. - without the barrier. When you lay the insulation, be sure that all areas are covered except, of course, for the eave vents and other ventilators. You can also use bags of loose fill. Pour it between the ceilingjoists, the use a garden rake or a pusher (made from pieces of 2• x 2" and .2 x 6") to smooth and settle the. insulation intoall the corners. The fill should at least cover the top of the•• ceiling joists —higher if more thermal resistance is required. C,lle.ck: the R value per inch.printed on the bags. Again be sure not to'block:he vents. ". If there'sno insulation and no vapor barrier in your attic, install one before insulating. In this case plastic sheeting looped over the joists and fitted snugly down to the 'Ceiling board would be best: The ceiling in a new home or extension should be in- sulated to at least- R•20. This means at least 6 inches 'of batt, blanket or ,..loose -fill insulation, and . an effective vapor barrier on the lower (warm) side of the insulation. The extra cost of a good in- sulation job will more than - pay for"itself over the lifeof the house. Your walls are the second most important source of heat loss. Aim for a total wall' resistance . of .R14or more. This means an R .factor for the insulation of at least 12, about as '.much as can be achieved with • batts or blankets and 4 -inch wall studs. . -- Unfortunately, re insulating walls is more difficult and more expensive than ceilings. You do have a' number of options, however, depending upon the type of wall construction, existing insulation and , money ° to spend. If your plans permit ex- tensive renovation, remove the wallboard orplaster and re -insulate the wall as you would a new one (see in- structions betow). Then replace the wallboard. While. you're at it, you rnighT want to attacha,,,x 2" or 2 x 2" strips to. the stud edges to allow for more insulation in the wall cavity. To avoidthe trouble of removing the:. inside surface of a wall, or when this can't be' done ' as with masonry walls, you can apply new insulation • -(batts, blankets' orr rigid panels) to the inside surface. Apply straps to the 7 -7 1 No.insu1atIon HERE'S HOW HEI•'SCAPES • PROM YOUR HOUSE wall to attach the insulation andcovering wallboard. (Remember the styrofoam should be covered by 'plaster or gypsum board.) You can use 1 x 2" .furring strips for thin styrofoam; use at least 2 x 2" strips for batts, blankets or thicker foam. Once your • strips are in place, apply the insulation according to the. -instructions below for frame wall's; • • ' If ' you have. hollow, . or almost hollow, wood=frame walls you can have • a profe,ssi.onal: insulation' contractor blow. in loose -fill insulation. He can .do. this froni the, ;:outside if small sections of the exterior can be. .removed, as with clapboard. If the exterior is brick, aluminum siding or stucco, -he'll have to drill holes in the interior walls ' and -. repair them whenhe's finished. Care must.be taken that the entire stud space is filled — that no projections or cross- braces hinder : the filling process. The cavity -in older' wood- framehousesand in some. masonry walls can be filled with- a foamed -in-place. in- sulatiori,.. such as urea - e N formaldehyde. This must be done by a professional. Check the prices in your area and pick the contractor carefully. When you're insulsftingnew walls, the idea is toput in as much insulation asthe stud space will accept. For extra insulating .value, consider 6 - inch studs . or ._a- layer of styrofoam , sheeting on the outside. (under the exterior_. surface). Follow the in- structions below. When you start to work on a wall that -has been framed, push blankets • into the stud spaces' so. they ` touch • the sheathing or siding. Work from the top-down and place the staples about 12 inches apart, pulling down the -flanges so that they fit snugly against the top and bottom plates: • If you're using friction -fit batts or blankets without an attached vapor barrier-, first wedge them into place, then cover the inside face of the wall with a suitable vapor barrier such as polyethylene, stapled to,•top and bottom` plates. •Unroll the sheet across the entire wall- area, including window. .and door openings. You can cut these. Page 11 r 'out later. - Be sure to fit insulation behind pipes, ducts and electrical boxes. Pack space with loose insulation or cut a piece to the proper size and fit it into place. Stuff pieces 'of insulation between rough framing and door and window heads,. jambs and sills. Staple vapor- barrier paper or polyethylene -io cover these small areas. If you have non -standard - width studs or- joist • spaces, cut- the insulation and vapor barrier an inchor so wider than the space to be filled. Staple uncut flanges as usual. Pull the vapor barrier on the •cut side to . the other stud, fitting the insulation behind.' it, and staple through the vapor barrier to- the stud. Unfaced blankets are cut" slightly oversize and wedged into place. . • After plugging the heat leaks -in ceilings and walls, basement walls are the . next area to tackle. A good deal of•' heat is lost from basement walls, especially the part above ground. • For block or concrete walls - that are less than 50 -per cent . (Continued on page 17 Photograph courtesy Craven Foundation Collection maybe you .don't pkin to buy a 1912 Rolls Royce! but if you hove o new car purchase in mind... we can help make it happen with TERMPLAN Thinking of a major purchase-? Why, r'fot drop in to your nearest Royal Bank branch" and enquire about our Termplan Personal Loans. . There's no red tape a good. credit rating and steady income are all you need. Your IoarLisalso life insured aPno extra cost, i. 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