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Proper pruning In the spring encourages strong, healthy growth. Roses should be cut
back to three to five strong stems, with two or three buds per stem. (Photo by the Ontario
Ministry of Agriculture and Food)
Prune for healthy roses
Early pruning and fer-
tilizing are important if you
want attractive and healthy
roses, says Theo Blom,
Ontario" Ministry of
Agriculture and Food hor-
ticulturist.
or-
ticulturist.
Roses should .be pruned
each spring before the
bushes leaf out to help
maintain the quality and
overall appearance of the
plants.
Although each plant should
"be pruned to its habit and
-amount of growth, Mr. Blom
says there are some general
guidelines.
Wait until the buds start to
swell, so you can determine
which branches are alive
and which are dead.
Don't cut below last year's
pruning. If you do, you
weaken the .plant and the
new shoots won't be strong.
If the rose bushes are new
andthis is their first
pruning, prune then about
20 to 30 centimetres (8 to 12
inches) above the•ground. I -n
subsequent` years, prune a
bit higher and remove all
dead wood and weak, twiggy
growth.
It is important to prune
climbing roses according to
their growth habits. Cut off
the thin branches so the
plant does not have too many
blind shoots.
Established roses will
benefit if fertilizer is applied
during the growing season.
Mr. Blom recommends three
applications of balanced
Sweetcorn
all season
In this tiny plot, only 3 x 12
ft., this gardener planted
three blocks of sweet corn
two weeks apart. From each
block he will harvest 8 -to 10
ears, enough for six or more
meals for two people over a
six-week period.
For long'season areas, you
can plant the same maincrop
hybrid in all three blocks. In
short season areas it would
pay you to plant seeds of
early, second -early .and
maincrop hybrids and all at
the same time.
"Succession plantings"
with fresh crops succeeding
' the blocks you harvest, are
an intelligent way to utilize
garden space. Large Mocks•
maturing all at once can be
wasteful unless you are
prepared to can or freeze the
surplus.
fertilizer in mid-May, June
and August.
Apply 'fertilizer to the soil
surface near' the plants, then
rake or dig it under. A rate of
1/2 to 1 kilogram (1 to '2
pounds) of fertilizer for each
9 square metres (100 square
feet) of rose garden is
recommended.
Fertilizer formulas for
roses are available at garden
centres, but you can apply
the general purpose fer-
tilizer used for lawns and
gardens.
Start a compost pile
Long before modern,
ecologically -conscious man
"got into" recycling natural
resources, composting was a
tool oi, the farmer and
gardener. It's still a good
way for you to build up and
maintain your soil for good
plant growth.
Composting involves
returning dead plant matter
to the soil — after it has been
supplemented with com-
mercial fertilizer and
allowed to decay — to help
strengthen the soil far
growing new plants.
Compost material is ap-
plied just like aly other
mulch.tnaterial but it can do
a lot more, according to The
Fertilizer Institute. Compost
can add organic matter and
plant nutrients to the soil as
well as ,furnish food for
earthworms essential for
aerating the soil. As a mulch,
compost also reduces soil
erosion by wind and water
and can help suppress weed
growth. In, addition it helps
retain essential soil
moisture.
Practically any plant
material can be composted.
Leaves, lawn clippings, fine
twigs, old sod straw, and
kitchen and garden
vegetable refuse are ex-
cellent. Avoid using diseased
plants. In the fall, great
quantities of leaves are
available from neighbors for
the asking.
Begin by selecting an out-
of-the-way place in your
garden or a hidden corner of
your lawn. If you have the
space, two bins are better
than one — permitting you to
turn the -,compost by moving
it from one bin to the:other.
You can make the bins by
attaching wire fence or
boards to posts, or to ad;,
joining fence or wall. Each,
bin should be 4 to 6 feet high,
3 to 5 feet wide" and any
convenient length, tailored
to thea mount of compost you
need. One side of each bin
should be removable to
enable you to fill and empty
the bin. In the fall you may
wish to extend the sides
temporarily to boost the bin
capacity; by March the
cotnpost should settle as
much as 2 feet. The sides
should not be airtight o'r
watertight.
Build your "compost pile by
spreading out a layer of
plant refuse about 6 inches
deep across the floor of your
bin. Add one-half to one
pound of regular lawn fer-
tilizer (1-1-1 or 1-2-1 are
recommended fertilizer
ratios for this use) to each 10
square feet of surface. Then
add one inch of soil and
enough water to moisten but
not soak mixture. Repeat
this process as bin is filled.
Make the top of the pile
concave to catch rainwater.
If you desire an 'alkaline
compost, add ground
limestone (about 1/2 to two-
thirds cup) to each layer as
you add fertilizer. The
decaying action will proceed
most rapidly during warm
weather. Application of lime
and fertilizer, in addition to
adding plant nutrients to the
mixture, also hastens
organic matter breakdown°
to form humus mixture. You
can further accelerate decay
during midsummer by
forking over the pile, helping
to evenly distribute
moisture, and aerate the
pile.
Ifyou begin your compost
pile in. the fall it should be
ready for use by the- end of
the first summer. You may
insure'a continuing compost
supply by starting a new pile
each year.
Compost can be used as a
mulch — covering bare
ground next to flowers and
vegetables in the garden —
or as- an -addition to soil by
working'it in with a spade or
shovel.
" Compost will not take the
place of fertilizer, but it does
aid in maintaining loose,
easily -worked soil for
favorable root growth,
Morning Glories
Morning glories are
beautiful flowering annuals,
but they take a long time to
mature from seeds sown
outdoors. To speed the
process, start the seeds
indoors in April, and tran-
splant them outdoors in mid-
June. This will advance the
flowering, period by two to
three weeks.
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