HomeMy WebLinkAboutThe Goderich Signal-Star, 1985-04-24, Page 58iq
mar
'UA
mals reach full potential
Annual flowers bloomonlyonce so they are,
developed to put on a big ,show. -Ontario's
relatively short Owing season - generally
from Inid- ay to mid September means
plants only dull to grow m juoo,
tiegular feedixig d ..w evin -.,.hells
am y� reach. their fpotential, says. John
n
Hu hes of the Ontario inistry of Agricul-
tu JJ and l'bod's plant industry branch.
• Before planting, incorporate a complete.
granular 10-10-10 fertilizer into your garden
soil at a rate of 50 grams per square metre
(one ounce per six squarefeet). Hughes says
this provides the basic reserve for the flower
crop.
After planting, use an organic mulch
around the plant, A well -composted material
reduces water stress, discourages competi-
tive weeds and sloTrrs up the compaction of the
upper soil layer. This also helps air and water
enter the soil.
. Hughes -says ano ,additional fertiliizing;.::is
required for about three weeks. During this
period, the plant develops a root system and
in some cases, basal branching.
Feeding is done in mid-June to maximize
the crop potential. Use a complete water
soluble fetilizer such as 20-20-20. Dissolve
the fertilizer in a pail of water and siphon onto
plants. Common fertilizer siphons have a 1:15
injection ratio so for each Litre of concentrate
solution being injected, 15 fres is coming out
the end of the hose (one gallon of concentrate
:15 gallons of concentrate), Hughes• says
siphons are a good'investment because they
make feeding plants very easy.
Balcony gardeners or those with a very
dIx » glen area-.nay,dissolve the fertilizer
irectly into their watering cad and amply it: A
normal rate for a 20-20-20 fertilizer is one
gram of fertilizer per litre of water (one ounce
of fertilizer per 16 gallons of water). W hen
using a siphon, base calculations on the total
number of litres of water coming out the end
of the hose. This will be determined by the
size of your concentrate pail. Once you know
how many litres of water will be tsed then you
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can determine how much fertilizer to put in
the concentrate pail -
Hughes says fertilizer is relatively inex-
pensive - only one peraeent to two per cent of
total crop .costs for greenhouse operators.s
Fertilizer is also important, especially for
annuals with the capacity to grow large leaves
and fldwer if fed regularly, once. a week, ..
But Hughes cautions gardeners about
using fertihzer too close to trees, shrubs and
other perennials.
"The regular feed should be administered
up to the end of July but then try toavoid
applying too close to trees and shrubs. The
fertilizer encourages late growth making
these plants susceptible to winter injury."
House
,Continued from Page 22) `
Caulking materials needed for the average
house will cost about $80. Be sure to buy
interior caulking; elastic brands are best --
silicone and butyl work well. An interior,
acrylic latex caulking material comes in
various colors for use around high visibility
areas such as baseboards.
Weatbeistripping helps reduce drafts in
places with movable joints, two surfaces that
meet and move relative to each other such as
doors, windows, attic hatches, interior
window shutters and so on. W eatherstrip-
ping keeps two surfaces snug 'against each
other, keeping drafts from blowing through
the joints.
Materials -can--be :mode .of metal, . plastic,
vinyl or foam rubber. One effective, low cost
product is a self-adhesive plastic V strip for
doors and windows. The material should be
rugged enough to withstand constant wear'
and tear. Depending on the number of
exterior doors and windows, it will cost
between $100 and $150 to weatherstrip the
average house.
Most good quality caulking and weather-
stripping materials are available at local
hardware stores. Building supply stores that .
specialize in energy conservation carry a
fuller line of products. For an average size
house all the materials will rarely cost more
than $250. As ageneral rule of thumb, a more
durable product is worth the extra cost.
Dower heating bills should repay the
investment in the first year or two.
Set aside a weekend to do the work. The
attic, usually a major heat loss area, isa good
place to start. Locate the cracks in the attic
floor and seal carefully with caulking
material. The next most important area to
werk on is the basement. Be sure to look at
the sillplate, where the house wall sits on the
basement wall. Caulking this area can be
tedious and messy but it is well worth the
trouble., If the spaces at the end of the floor
joists are exposed; they should ,also be
insulated. -a
Door sweeps -- strips of pliable material to
block the space between the floor and the
bottom of the door -- plug a.prime heat loss
area.
Windows can account for as much as 25
percent of the heat loss in 'older homes;
especially the old, double -hung variety.
That's because the heat has so many places to
escape from-- through the glass, through the
joints between the glass and the frame, and
through the joints between the window frame
and the wall.
• W eatherstripping and silicone seal can cut
the leakage dramatically. Look for a good seal
that will slightly increase the closing pressure
of the window. Tp,pbtain a tight seal around
the frame, carefully remove the interior
moldings and caulk or poly foam the rough
opening.
Special gaskets are designed to seal out
drafts behind electrical outlets. Seal , all
plumbing vents and electrical boxes with
polyethylene sheets and caulking compound.
Around the chimney use special heat
resistant materials. Check exhaust fans to be
sure the damper closes tightly and the vent is
properly sealed.