Clinton News-Record, 1984-02-22, Page 29Move is towards tailcoats for the groom
Classic stylings in traditional colors and
subtle shades are in the forefront of men's
formal wear fashion this year.
As a result, basic black tuxedos and
tailcoats, classic white dinner jackets,
elegant -morring coats and lomat wok a
wide r-ang_e, of grey shades have _tended W.
dominate the wedding -day Wardrobes of
grooms and groomsmen — a response to the
deep, rich hues being favored by bridal par-
ties.
White -tone shirts with the traditional
pleated front, wing -tip collars and black pa-
tent. leather shoes are also very much in
vogue. For a splash of color some groon is
and their groomsmen have taken to color co-
ordinating their accessories — cummer-
bunds, bow ties and pocket puffs — to the
shades of the bridal -party dresses.
The color of bridal -party dresses is a
decisive factor for grooms and groomsmen
in. choosing their formal wear colors. For
eaamwie,, with colors such as thinly rose and`
• burgundy- being popular with bridal atten-
dants, men in the wedding party are opting
for complementary colors such as grey,
black or white.
Because of this color co-ordination, grey
has become an extremely popular color with
grooms and groomsmen.
While traditional colors such as black and
white, and a subtle shade such as grey, are
currently most in demand, classic stylings
— including a strong demand for tailcoats
(tails) and morning coats — are also very
much in evidence.
Morning coats come in a range of grey
hues, whiled tails, Paglione said in his ex-
perrence; black-is'the• donyunant`color with
grey also --showing -strength. -'ails_ :are..:
especially popular with the groom, he con- •
tinued, with the best man and the ushers
often opting for shorter tuxedo jackets in the
same color.
The traditional pleated -front shirt with a
wing -tip collar is dominant this season.
White, cream and ivory are popular shirt
colors.
Flashy tuxedos have had their day
A word of warning to the bride: If the man
waiting at the end of the aisle is dressed in a
robin's egg blue tuxedo and matching
ruffled shirt, turn around and rytn.
Flashy, trashy tuxes have had\ their day
and classic formal wear is back with a
vengeance.
For the tuxedo itself, this means black,
white, and to a lesser extent, gray and
midnight blue. Shirts are white or occasion-
ally a pale colour, have pleats - not ruffles -
and wing collars.
What updates the classic is the use of
vivid colour in the bow tie and cummerbund.
This could be anything from red to yellow to
peach - and white for the groom.
rge-
or
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In some wedding parties, the ushers' bow
ties and cummerbunds match the brides-
maid's dresses.
Goldstein says trends in formal wear are
the same throughout the country, in rural
and urban, settings; but this is a recent
phemomenon.
Here are some "right answers" about
formal wear.
❑ Tuxedo should be made of fine wool,
often mohair or a mohair and `wool combina-
tion. Lapels and pant stripe should be of silk.
❑ Double breasted jackets suit men up to
about age 45, "figure permitting". Older
men would probably opt for single breasted.
Jacket should be ventless or have a single
vent; side vents are "too free swinging".
❑ Shirts are made from fine cotton, with
pleats ranging from less than a centimetre to
three and a half centimetres wide, with one
and one quarter centimetres being the most
popular. Shirts can either have a placket
front with three studs or a flyfront and
should always have a French cuff.
❑ Black cummerbunds are out. Whatever
colour is chosen, cummerbund, bow tie and
optional puff all match.
❑ Shoes should be in well polished fine
black leather in a plain style. No heavy soles,
please.
D Socks should be in either' silk or fine
cotton and held up by suspenders. Wool is
for work.
BRIDES EDITION '84 PAGE 9
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