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HomeMy WebLinkAboutThe Goderich Signal-Star, 1970-03-19, Page 16SIGNAL"T4R,"THURSDAY, MARCH 19, 1070 later drive into the . EIb rr • unpardonable breach of Persian etiquette, picnic or no picnic, A well-fed looking cat r strolled into the `room, locked around; and jumped 'up on on& of . the divans, settling himself comfortably against a stout Moslem who didn't move or look up from his plate of rice. The cat waited hopefully. ,for leftovers. When -there were none he jumped' down and came to . our divan, eating, greedily when we gave him some cold 'park. I hoped ..he, was -not --too- Moslem -.,u- ' cat for he had sinned against his religious, precepts. ' w'' • Outside the building, a Dervish (Holy man)- Marched back and forth, chanting a story' about Joseph. ° He was decked out in all sorts of oddities which gave •'him the appearance of a scarecrow. When Uncle Ben slipped him some money, the. chant doubled in volume, and continued in a monotonous wail until I felt like paying him to stop; Lines of the Rubaiyat- of Omar Khayyam kept passing thro u gh my min, • cj,,�„ "Think, in this , battered Caravansari ' Whose doorways are alternate night and day How . Sultan after -Sultan with his Ccnn►tinued EA' LORNA VINCENT have done it..However, there was no place on the -narrow ledge to turn so we drove on in ominous silence. The strong icy wind shook the car, and snow drifted' along the road . in sculptured piles. When we .turned on the next switchback, we saw ahead, another car staffed on the road. bur' river stepped on the brake and I. could.feel the back wheel .slew on the icy .surface—This Was 1t, I though resignedly, as I clung' desperately- to the seat. We were at the edge a the precipiea,-but a ._ twist of .• the wheel sent the car into the mountainside with a thud which almost, jerked us off • b ., Choice between freezing and sudden death. VO Thought of feeling w , m again, After considerable time -we stopped in front -Of an unpainted wooden ' building ; by the roadside. Here, the. snow had melted into muddy pools of water through which we waded. The proprietor, a ,Moslem, came- `out ame- `out to welcome us. it is difficult for westeners to realize the hospitality; a of even the most humble Iranian,' until experienced. When , we entered the door. our host repeated his. welcome with a sweeping gesture', as tliodgh Ute y "My house 1 is yours, It was a large room with a big stove standing in the centre. Around this and •the waywe a arranged typical wooden divans draped with colorful rugs on which lounged bearded men, seine comfortably clothed and. others rather ragged and unkempt. They sat cross-legged as they ate from huge plates •of steaming rice and grilled mutton. These people no .. matter how poor,. have a proud ngbility of countenance, as well as utter resignation to, the will of Allah. They have ,survived the rough winds of ti•<me, climatic stress, and cruel• regimes, to remain as •steadfast and rugged as their mountains. The proprietor brought a clean rug and draped it on one .. of the• divans next to the stove. Its occupant had moved off willingly to give us the honored place. It was quite unusual for women to appear - at `these hostels,' and the three of us felt like exhibits A, B, and C, as every eye,centred upon us. They all looked amused at the intricacies of Western lunches as f rth.es_ acka d ' we drew o P ; -� 3ars,° paper cups and plates. Their,eyes were like those of poor children watching the Unpacking of a • large Christmas hamper. I lost my appetite before this concentrated ° curiosity; . especially, when at intervals someone blew his nose on the floor and others expectorated. It is considered unhygienic to use .handkerchiefs in Iran and one is exposed to this revolting habit all along the city streets. ' The proprietor reprimanded out Iranian friend, Mrs.. D. `for beginning to eat ahead of her guests. That is -.considered an We passed a dead camel lying - by the roadside and just beyond . Suddenly, one morning, while that, a broken-down and we were living .at the hotel, abandoned truckute evidence winter . descended on Tehran that One ship -of - desert had three weeks earlier than usuat thundered, r Mrs. D. who' was - an Iranian on ' The highway,.,f rst, follo`'wed a the embassy staff • had persuaded gurgling mountain stream along us to accompany her and a few the valley floor; then it began to friends Who wanted to 'drive us climb . - upwards in narrow; . into the Elburz mountains. They sweeping hair -pin turns, As we form a great barrier between „climbedhigher, the sleet turned" Tehran and the 'Caspian Sea, to driving, snow, and the' narrow 'bare and_ruggegLan vie side and. road, car ed_ -from—the- -side -o€ covered with thick trbpi'cal precipitous rock,- became foliage on the other. The highest " slippery. At the same time, -we in peak is snow-capped all year the back seat wb ere econung numb with cOW-From time -to Our winter clothing Was still time, ominous muttering en route by sea so we emerged escaped fforn our blue lips. into the dismal sleety morning shivering in our spring coats. Our faces growing longer with every step, we crossed the muddy hotel compound to the lounge where we silently, awaited our fate. While picnic lunches - were being prepared we hovered near the space heater as though to store up' enough warmth for the_ day.., But too soon Mrs. D. hurried out of the hotel kitchen' followedby three.waiters on the double, carrying bulging cardboard boxes. They looked ---the seat_ I—could---picture.- the ° headlines, "Frozen bodies discovered • on high mountain pass." By now I was shaking with both 'cold and fright. I got out of the . car and declared emphatically that I'would go no further;, but when the snow cut across my face and buried my numb feet, I, made a quick choice between freezingand sudden death. I promptly rye -entered the car followed by some -of the others who had joined me. The car ahead finally moved off, and when our driver stopped waving his arms around in,,;„ answer to our loud accusations, we followed. He kept ` repeatingthat the gas station was around the next Although the holes 'in - the road had been filled to make more comfortable passage for His Majesty, the Shah who was ' passing through the following day, we still bounced unmercifully. • Here and there, �; dreary looking villages clung perilously to the mountain -side; but therei was little 'sign of life anywhere except for an occasional driver and donkey carrying its btrden of wood for the fire. When we moved over to pass a truck, and I looked straight •down like an African safari being . thousands of feet, myyeballs pursued by natives. They, ran to nearly fell out of their sockets, the ,waiting car while we .and I. pushed myhusband to the followed. slowly like victims . end of the seat . as h crowded marledfor the firing squad. over. - In the front seat slouched a - - seedy looking Iranian drivel'', half We drove through a long asleep. Beside him sat Mrs. D's dimly-lit tunnel and passed- the brother, beaming With impressive Karaj dam, built- with anticipation, and holding a American 'aid; which greatly hunting rifle which pointed- --increased - Tehr-an-s-- _ electric- -toward • the car roof, When I power. Workmen moved about, thought of the condition of the muffled to the ears -against the roads, I pictured a, nice neat hole icy wind.. Up and Up we -climbed overhead. He told us with great until we could see peak after enthusiasm that he intended to peak draped in its dazzling . go hunting when We stopped for in/ tie of snow..Ihis majestic lunch Mom/Mom/mad can pee ene, I forgot mn this fear, and I no get?) In. the second seat lounge ore looked down as we an immense and genial looking • rounded curves. The snow American, muffled to the ears in. softened the ,cruel, jagged lines, heavy clothing.: He remarked and we,seemed to be held in the - casually, "Too bad you folks hollow of an immense white haven't got warm clothes." hand which enthralled and y husband and 'I climbed uplifted •the spirit above physical. reluctantly into the back seat discomfort. and huddled together for- But soon •the snow began to warmth. We looked at the drift in gusts across the road pyramid of lunches piled at our ' while . we drover toward • ever feet and wondered where we more perilous switchbacks. It would eat them, while Mrs. D. seemed as though we were said brightly, -"The sun will be heading for outer space. Our out anytime now. These sleet rapture dissolved and we. storms never last here. protested loudly against going We passed through the almost any • further; but . the driver deserted;.city streets as this was suddenly informed .us •that the. • the Moslem Sunday. The rows of - car would soon• be out of gas; storefronts, closed solidly that we must keep on until we against intruders, looked like reached the only -•-gas station in silent fortresses. Occasionally we the mountains. Unfortunately, it saw ,a woman swathed in her stood on one of the highest black chador. We reached the =' passes.- • suburbs where rows of half -built We had been on the road for houses and apartments stood. over two hours, and there was a lonely amidst a their treeless . storm of , protest. .Uncle Ben rubble, awaiting the hands of -tile swore softly. "Why was there workmen. Then we headed not sufficient gas?" Our seedy straight for that ominous wall of driver snow-covered craggy mountains. been They had the cold silent look of night. something lying in wait for its pYey.. • In the front seat ' everyone _ laughed - and • joked, but the, .. Aftierican whom we called "Uncle Ben," remarked soberly, "If .we hadn't hired the car. last - night we wouldn't have come." .' "Too bad.," -I suggested,' "that Tehran has no •weather. bureau.. Perhaps the, small rainfall ,of - approximately 21/2 inches per yeariaccounts'for it. When we left the suburbs_ the ' mountains ' became larger and whiter, and we could see in" the ,'' distance where the straight "? ribbon of highway disappeared among them. Here and there on the • side of the road, walls of mud " brick enclosed straggly Persian gardens adorned with bits of faded foliage and a few thinly branched trees. Some of the shrubbery looked as though it had been dipped in watery autumn tints, and it blossomed with small blobs of wet snow. Beyond the" gardens and the 5246871 tf" mud=brit-k " houses, stretched miles of flat barren'soil. suggested that some had sifoned out during the I,.had an idea who ,night AS`UeCESSF MARR/AGE SE q azm'p wipe NDADEAF IYUS144N0... bend, and then the next. The air became . tense as ' every eye was glued to .the. meter. Finally -it registered "Zero" and you,could hear our angry sighs of - desperation. Then suddenly, on • turning another bend, we saw the gas station ahead. To us, it. looked like the promised land.. Two old" trucks were being filled -tip while. the..drivers stamped about to keep warm. This"` -desolate, snow blown scene was as welcome as a tropical island to a shipwrecked crew. - - When the car headed back toward Tehran, we thought -.ofws thelunches at. our feet. Where would we eat them since the inner fuel seemed urgent. Mrs. D. knew of a Caravansari on one of the lower passes—where -we could eat, and at the same time, thaw .. out a by theme stove. We became almost gay at the .. _pomp .... _.. abode his hour or two, and -went • his way." Quite possibly, he had sat cross-legged in this..sarne hostel,. composing some •of his famous `verses. ,It had changed little during 'the centuries, only now, there were trucks parked outside with -the donkeys and camels. Although we didn't eat much, wehad, become orow ily warm; deep thuds for havin �urviv d the slithering tires around at all those colorful Yawn ng chasms. It ' seieried Persian rugs covered. with bits of wonderful just to be alive and in food; and thought how we one -piece► and it was a great effort to go g out into the told I looked g ,, and would treasure them at home, ' Here, they are so common they are spread on. the ground,, the dusty sidewalk. or the earthen 4 floors of hovels arid tribesmeng's• tents. They serve as bedding, tablecloths, drapes and ,;.prayer mats- -Often they are Woven, by.,; the hands of small children. who work eight hours. a ` day in poor'_ light--The$rvsualiy- go_ blind --or __ ._,. die., of W T,B., in a few years. We were,told that the fingers of an adult are- too ''large for the smaller an( more intricate "patterns. On leaving our hostel, •we again followed the mountain stream • running green between white banks. ' We , slithered around curves .until the white, --N. austere peaks began to recede in the, background, looking more benign, but losing much of their majestic beauty. Now ,the road pointed arfow straight, .across the sandy barrens to Tehran. Near the.city, we stopped at a quaint teahouse for vodka and hot tea since we were again very cold. The building consisted _ of several small and: gaudily painted rooms, with small tables. The owner brought 'in a kerosene stove since _the place was freezing cold and empty save for . us. We drank luke-warm tea and quoted from the verse of Omar Khayyam. He is considered as merely a third-rate poet in Iran althoughhighly regarded in the West. We seemed to sense' his spirit wherever we went, We finally reached the haven - of our warm hotel 'morn -With ALBERT MIDDfL PA(NTINU. (� p@CpRA71NG, 5244686 a-� For Your INSURANCE • .. ° see or call MacEwan Ma<EMraa 44 North St. - 5249531 Donald G. 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