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HomeMy WebLinkAboutThe Exeter Times, 1891-1-15, Page 5OUTING A VOLQANQ IN HAWAII.. Trowel Vegetation on clouutain Slop Makes the setting ora Lake of molten Lava-"Wairoug ever fiottomless it1OW boles. We left Honolulu one morning on the in- terisland steamer Kilian, en route to Hawaii to visit the volcano of Kilauea, That even- ing. we sighted and passed to the leeward Molokai, Lanai, Kahoolawe and the rocky islet of Molokini, anchoring about ten p, m. in Maalaea Bay, off the low sandy istbnilta connecting East and \\est Maui. On Yea- 1iesday wo reached our first landing, Mahu- kone, the terminus of a railroadtwelvemiles long, leading to the Kohula sugarplantations, The town consists of several large ware houses, a Chinese restaurant, two Chinese stores and a few other buildings. Several young natives stood about the landing, hav- ing brought horses for expeeted friends. The girls mounted astride, as is their custom hero, and their friends brought garlands of flowers anti hung there about their necks. Many of the girls were very pretty, with their abundant tressesand dark liquid eyes shaded by long lashes. We learned that several of these young people were students at the Kamehameha Manuel Training Col lege, or the ICawaihao Seminary in limo - lulu. When addressed in English they spoke it fluently, but among themselves they chatted away in their own soft, musical lan- guage, It wail so hot and the air so parching that we were glad to steam out of the harbor after our three hours' sojourn there. About sixty miles south of this point is Kaawaloa, where Captain Cook fell. A monument is there erected to his memory on a piece of Laud donated to the British government for that purpose by the late Princess Likelfke. The monutnentia a plain obeliskof concrete, the enclosure beingsurrounded by chain and old cannon. Wo, however, proceeded only so far as liawaihae. From this paint the names of the passengers aboard were telephoned to Hilo, same seventy miles distant on the windward side. The couutry here, owing to more extensive irrigation, is greener than at Mahttkona. Lofty Mauna. --Deas (white tnouutain).and Mauna -Loa (long mountain), *leo Hualalai, anotterextinetvoleano, loom Up in the baekgrouud and draw the clouds about their summits. A REA,TnEN Ts3fPL1'. Just before reaching l%awaihae wo passed Pinnate, and on a hillside naw the ruins of a Iceiau," one of the largest of the heathen temples built by Kamebemeha I. in the latter part of the last century. It is 3,i0 feet long, 150 wide. Its walls, 14 feat in. height, aro 30 feet thick at the base and S feet et the top. Tradition says the stones for the construe - tion of these monstrous walls were passed frotn tho valley of Pololu, twelve miles dile taut, by a filo of workmen standing in lino the whole distance. Three altars stand with- in the sacred enclosure, andnichea may still be discovered in the wall where idols stood. Tliat in the northeast corner was for the ,great god of the temple. Human sacrifices were favorite oblations both to the deities loved and hated. A SCENE 01t TROPICAL =AVM. After leaving Iia,waihao we turned north- ward and steamed past Punopn, past Mahukona and rounded Upola Point. Vol - came wore t^ -tide winds, but not so welcome the rough 'mans, the harbinger of seasick- s� uees. ere the greenest of slopes and roll - 'Ing hills and faraway stretches of forest and mountain met our eyes. The cliffs on this side of the island rise abruptly from the water's edge, rearing their heads a thousand feet, and are covered with verdure. Thou- sands of streamlots pour over their face, and fifty great ee tlracts between Upola and Hilo tall WWI tremendous force into the sea .or are lost in spray long before they reach the sea. Theao agencies, at work for cen- turies, have caused doop valleys in the mighty cliffs that extend back into the mys- terious somewhere far from the sea. Noted i among these is \\Teeple Valley, celebrated for its scenery. Tho cliffs rise almost per- pendicularly to a height of three thousand feet. Until recently utilized and carried off by flumes to the sugar plantations, down these cliffs for sixteen hundred fent dashed the waterfall of Hilawe. The valley itself extends twenty miles into the mountains, the lower part of it be- ing but three quarters of a mile in width. The bottom is flat and covered with rice fields and taro patches. The descent into the valley is by a road nearly a mile in length that finds its difficult way down the face of a pali (precipice. Wo counted nineteen waterfalls within sight at one time before it was too dark for us to see longer. ,p waERE BYRON LANDED. By and by our vessel time to anchor in Hilo, or Byron's Bay. Here, more than a half eentury ago,Lorn Bryon looked out over the same fair scene,and was no doubt rowed to shore in the native canoe that still is used in these waters. The harbor is large enough to float many of the world's navies, and so deep that only the lack of proper wharfago prevents the largest vessels from coming in to the shore. It is in formof a crescent and, like nearly all these far away Pacific shores, its coast is fringed with cocoanut trees. To the left of us was Cocoa- nut Island. Three small craters or old blow holes, clothed with verdure, formed a kind of near background to the little town of Hilo, almost buried in tropical trees. A TEDIOUS RIDE. We started for the crater at eight a. m. in a wagonette drawn by four horses, and were driven over a macad- amizei carriage road for fourteen miles. There was much to interest us on the way. For two or three miles we passed through a sugar pla *tion. The slope of Mauna Loa is' so graduilal that after a ride of seven miles we had accou pllished but 500 of the 4,040 feet of elevation before us. We passed through. a forest belt for threemiles, abound- ing in pandanus, ohia lehua, with its scarlet blossoms, and a dense and luxuriant under- growth. Then we came out upon a coffee plantation, the land looking from its half cleared appearance as if it needed grubbing. The coffee shrub, four or five feet in height, with its pretty bright green leaves, seemed J to be prospering among the sumps and rough rocky soil. After a while we passed hun- dreds and hundreds of acres of ferns. There were hedges of ferns on either side of the road ; the roots and trunks of the pale fern are laid horizontally to keep the road from washing during the heavy rains. New ferns spring out of the trunks, so that for miles we are hedged in on Dither side by a growth four and five feet in height and bidding fair to grow more luxuriantly with time. Ten miles from Hilo we looked back and saw the blue waters of the Pacific. A few miles further on, at the half -way house, we found our horses awaiting us, hav- ing come up several hours earlier over the same route we .followed: All the ladies mounted, ,,astride; : all ware the Jenuess- r 1VIlller divided skirt,bI coats andlarge lar e hats. Our oilcloth packages were strapped on at the back of the sad -ales or else saddle bags held the necessary .change of clothing. Ib poured and poured. Our trail led over an old lava flow varying in width from a quarter of a mile to two miles. We could see just how it had out its way through the forest, burning down trees or whatever else came in its way. If you eau imagine travel- ling over rocks, the horses never once set- ting foot on soil for miles and miles, you can form some idea of the trail. This lava flow is formed of a kind of rounded andflatteued rock called by the uatives praitoehoe, having a surface sufficiently rough to afford a firm footing for a horse. No words will tell how glad we were when we at last came out on a kind of plain and saw a short distance off the Volcano House —a long, low, one story building, a hundred ft. or snore in length, with a, veranda ruunin along one side, a large enclosure surrounded by a wide fence, a flower garden, some little children playing about, and the proprietor, standing ready to help us dismount. We were too tired and wet just then to even know or care how close we were to the great black, pit or to see the sulphur fumes pour- ing out from vents and blow holes all around us. In a short time, arrayed in dry gar- ments, we were ready for dinner, to which we all did ample justice. We had beef, potatoes (Trishaw/ sweet), baked breadfruit, taro, freshl peas, good bread and butter and coffee, and for dessert ohelo shortcake, Our host, his Hawaiianwifeandtheolderehildren dined with us, Of course our topic of conver- sation was "the volcano," We enjoyed the open wood fire, the first we had had occasion to sit by for a year and a. half. Our wet ilhoes and Bate and other gar• meats also had the benefit of the warmth and blaze. This house is long and low and g planks- out pts. built of rough and unliewn ben The old fashioned chimney is built u into the parlor. There aro all sorts of queer shelves and eabinets full of sulphur and lava ,s,�pecimens, many of these very beautiful, Two paintings of Dana !take hang over the eliimneyppleve, and other pictures and poto. graph* adorn thorough, whits -washed falls, as well as all aorta of relics. There are several sofas and high tables, old fashioned high- backed rockers and an organ in the rooum, The floor is uncovered. We looked over the "registers " dating back for twenty or more years andread many interesting accounts at the activity or dormant condition of Dana, Iraleniauman andother lakes in the crater at different times. There were pagers of poetry dedi- cated to Mine. Pete. Almost every other page was illustrated- :luny of the drawings were excellent, some highly amusing. Mark Twain, the Prince of Norway and I} Sweden, the uke of Edinburgh, Mrs Brig- ham Youn' No.4 antlmanyother celebrities leave here' eft their record. When we lay down to sleep it was some satisfaction to know that the boiling, seething caldron, !lana Lake, wan at the further side of tho crater from us. Still, when we heard the wind roar about the house we could not help but fancy that it was the roar of the fiery waves beating like surf against their blec lava banks, and somehow our dreams were curiously mixed with earthquakes and yawning cracks that caught us midway and. held tut like a vice. inward toward its. Upon these dashing, fiery waves, intense in their white heat, we could most fancy that we saw boats and canoes and other craft, manned by the inbabitants of Hades- Gas jets, green and blue and act exquisite heliotrope,shot up and fiery fountains, played. "Pale's hair," a product of the !Holtenlava, resembling spun glass of the most delicate texture and light brownie colour, floated in the ascending currents of heated, air and finally lodged on the edge of the lake or clung to some crevice or projecting rock, Again, the temperature of the surface of the lake would be lowered a few degrees by some slight change in the atmosphere and the floor wouldcooluntilitwould see,naianost possible for one to walk across it. Indeed, it guide once ventured to the middle of the lake, pole in hand, to secure some molten lava from one of the vents. He had just re- turned and climbed the bank when the lake surface broke up, presenting a magnificent spectacle. Tar quicker than we can write it the whole mass was boiling, and what a moment before made a footing for a heavy man was being thrown as fiery spray high in the air or else dripping from a fiery fountain back hissing into a fierylake. FIlictEs OF TrrANI4 FORCE. Often, after the heat would seem to recede and the lava cool into a rough, black floor, very suddenly evidence of the fiery mass just beneath would show itself in the forked, lightning, zig-zag effect that would shoot across: the lake, generally in the same diree. tion as the minor axis, the eontraat making the biaek floor more intense in its blackness ; then with the sudden noise that any liquid makes when it iias reached the boiling point only intensified tliousaudsoftines, the whole plass wouldd break up and boil and bubble and be lifted several feet above the usual level, until we would be foreed to run fur, ther up the hank, fearing that thelake would burstite bounds and overrun its banks, over. whelming its in time fiery flood. Then, as if seeming to change ita nmtnd, it would shoot its jets high in the air and throw its spray like sheeting stars far beyond the edge of the lake, and again it would engulf great cakes of lava that would turn on edge and so bo drawn under. Again the hatted mass would eool off, the floor would sink several. feet, harden and darken; and the guide, seiz- ing the moment of quiet, with pole in hand would descend the steep bank, dip his polo into the molten lava along the edges, rush up the petit with his prize, knack it off, throw the pole to one side, press the hot lava into a small mesa with the Inner aides of his tltiek leather shoes, punch a Bole is the hot substance, drop the coinalianded to hien into the hole, give another punch with the pole. and pushing the coin specimen aside to cool, pick up lila long pole and, if all the conditions were again suitable, rush down for another quantity of lava. The most of the cams used were I'Tawaiian twenty-five cent pieces stamped with Kalakaua s profile, • SUNRISE ONTAEVOLCANQ. We wercup at six o clock to watch the sunrise reflected on Mauna Loit. The ther- mometer registered sixty degrees. The air was cool and refreshing. Three of the amaller children followed us down the path with a little wagon with their dogs, Happy and unconseious of their dangerous proxim- ity to the boiliug pit so near them. The path led to the sulphur banks a quarter of e, anile diiatant, While on the way a turn gave us *glimpse of Mauna Kea's snow cap- ped summit, Mauna Loa's gradual slope stretched away from us for thirty miles or more. Whet for a moment seemed to be dark cloud shadows resting upon her wo learned were great lava flows. '1'o our loft, just a short distance from us, yawned the great blaok pit that wo had come so far to sec, and just beyond us were the sulphur banks sparkling and yellow in the early morning light. When we reached them we found them so hot to our feet and hands that wo climbed about tl em very cautiously. Wo gathered some very pretty specimens and looked down a great earthquake crack just in the rear of "tho banks" that is said to extend twenty-five miles in length. On our return we gathered the ohelo, a berry related to the whortle or Huckleberry of the East, somewhat larger in size, and in color resembling a cranberry. We brought then home and enjoyed a large dishful of them served with sugar for our breakfast. I:i THE CRATER WALL. About three p. m. we arrayed ourselves for our trip to Dana Lake. We shortened our Jenness-Miller skirts and wore strong shoes and large hats. A half hour later we started, with three guides and ten lanterns. We each carried a strong staff. Concluding to go on foot to the lava floor, we soon found ourselves descending the walls of the crater. We followed a very steep but rather easy trail through a dense undergrowth. The walls of the crater are a thousand feet or more in altitude. Just before we reached the lava floor the guide pointed out to us the spot where a tourist had died, marked by a plain wooden headstone in the form of a cross. The unfortunate man had been to the " lake "and was well on his way back—in fact had reached the trail—when he sud- denly fell and died, as is supposed, of heart disease. When we left the trail and took the first step on the black, rough lava floor for a moment the broad, desolate stretch caused an indescribable shrinking. One by one we followed the guide and wondered how he knew just where to step, for the lava had very little of the worn appearance that would indicate a trail. Then, too, perhaps our shrinking came from the knowledge that twenty, thirty or forty feet below us was a molten mass of lava liquid, and that any moment the floor over which we were walk- ing might be melted, by the great heat of the fiery elements, and not even the evil spirits that Dante tells about would be standing by to watch for our ashes thrown up on the shore. DANA LAKE. After passing through the sulphur fumes, which proved the most trying part of our trip, we hoard our guide call out, " Here she is." High on one side of us rose a rough, pre- cipitous bank of loose lava stones, extending upward, perhaps, a thousand feet,or more, while just in front of us was Dana Lake. Cautiously we approached the edge and looked over,as well as across the lake. Just .t this time the lava had temporarily cooled. and with the exception of a vent here and, there formed a black floor across the length and breadth of the lake. We climbed up the bank and seated ourselves on the rocks and just then the floor broke up. The grandeur of the scene is indescribable. For the first half hour we did not feel like talking or collecting specimens or throwing stones across the lake, but sat quietly watching tho boiling, seething caldron spouting its jets of fiery lava and throwing up spray twenty feet or more in the air, sucking in and engulfing immense cakes of molten lava. On the further side was a cave festooned with "Pale's hair." Here the fiery mass never once cooled, but like the tireless waves of the ocean ever seemed the motion borne JOHN LABATT'S IndiaFalc Ale and XXX Brown Stout Highest awaras ane Medals for Purityand Excel- lence at Centennial Exhibition, Philadelphia, 1876; Canada, 1876 ; Australia, 1877 ; and Paris, France, 1878. TESTIMQONIAL.S SELECTED: Prot.1 H Croft, Pubiio Analyst, Toronto. says:—"I. find It to be perfectly aonndeontaining no impurities or adalter- atioLs, and can stronglyrecommend it as perfectly pure and a very superior malt liquor," John R Edwaras, Professor of Chemistry, Montreal, says: andtbeta to be remarkably souui ales, brewed from puremalt andhops. Rev.P. J. Ed. Page Professor of Chernistry,Laval Univer- silty, Quebec. says :—"I have analyzed the Indian Pale Al0 mannfacturedbyJobnLabatt, London, Ontario, and have found it a lightale, containing but little alcohol of a deli- ciousflavor. and of a ver,• agreeable taste and superior quality. andcompares with the best imported ales. I hive also analyzed the Porter XXX Stout, of the same brewery, which is of excellent quality; its flavor is very agreeable; it is a tonic moreenergetio than the above ale for it is a. little richer in alcohol, and eau be compared advantage- cuelywith any imported article. ASK YOUR GR,OGER VOR ET. I3E EXETER TIMES. republesneaeveryThursdsymornng,at TIMES STEAM PRINTING NOUSE lfain•atreot,uearlyopposito. Pitton's Jewatery Store,Nseter,Qat.,by-John `Yhito OF oona ere- arietore. RATE* Off ADFE1TtsiN4 Firatiusertiou, per line 10 cents Rech aubSequoatiaaertton,per line scents. To insure insertion, advertisements should be sontta notlaterthan Wodnesltay morning OnrJOB PIRINTING DEPARTMENT is one at the Iergestand beat equipped in the Ccunty 0° flaunt, All work eiitruatett to us will ruoaly o it prompt attention: Decisions Regarding News - a Any person who pakperesa pll8. orreaularlyfrom post-otpce,whotberdirected in his name or «notheee.or whether holies aubsoribed or not is responsible for payment, 2 if %person orders his paper discontinued aeninetpey ali asreeraa or the publisher may sontinue to fend at nlntil the payment is made, and then collect the whole amount, whether the paper fa taken from the office ar net, A in sults for eubacrlpUcua the emit maybe netitutedinthepltteew creole paper is pub - although the subscriber may reetde Hundreds of :miles away. 4 Theeeurta have decided that retaeing to eke uewapapers or petiodieale trout tee p01t- ce,or 00001 1n and h,awiug them uncalled or is prima bole evidence of Inteutloualfraud GLOWING IN TUE DAI:KNESS. After dark the lake was much more ac- tive ; the longer wo remained the more fas- etnating it grow. The glow, made more vivid by the blackness beyond, lighted up thogreat wells and overhanging rocks. The heat grow more intense and burned our feeds; yet the strong current of wind that blew toward us made us .glad, to put on our wraps. Just when our intereat was at its height we heard a tremendous crash some- where in the distance. For a moment we all stood spellbound, but boxing nothing more we concluded that a rock had Wien. It must have weighed tons to have caused such reverberations throughout the length and breadth of that great crater. Wo had iutended to remain until ten o'clock, but the more cautions minded of our party stig- gested that we only wait long enough to sec that lake break up once more. Then we concluded to retrace our steps, Before inc left, standing in the glow of the lake and fanned by her hot breezes, tho moon glanc- ing out at us far a moment, inc gathered our forces and sang " White Wings" and " Guide Us, 0 Thou (treat Jehovah "—they being, perhaps, as appropriate as anything else. \Voll, single filo we oneemoro fell into the trail, lighted only by the glimmer of our lanterns. We could not sec three feet bo- yond us on that black floor. One step at a time, we cautiously followed each other. Fortunately for us the sulphur fumes were not so dense as early in the afternoon, the wind blowing them from us, so that we were enabled to make the difficult ascent and descent of " Sulphur Banks" with muck less trepidation. When our guide would conte to an earthquake crack he would call out " Crack !" and the warning word would pass down our line, so that each one would be prepared to avoid it. This happened a good many times. Upon coming to the largest one inc were told that it was the result of an earthquake one night when a party of tourists were in the crater. Guides were immediately sent from the Volcano House to assist in case of trouble, but the sulphur fumes from the newly opened crack were so dense that the guides became bewildered and thought they had lost their way, and it was several hours before they reached the. alarmed tourists, their guide, not knowing what was ahead, having waited for assistance. Once across the crack we breathed easier end our trail grew less difficult. We found horses waiting for us at the foot of the walls and were glad enough to mount them and trust to being carried up the steep, winding path. Once or twice at some bend we lost sight of the lanterns both ahead and behind us, and could but just make out our steeds hugging the sides of the precipice ; so we were glad enough to reach the top and no longer fear a misstep pitching us down the sides of the crater. At the Volcano House we were welcomed with a bright fire and a hot dinner, which included a little roast pig, the usual sacri- fice to " Pele" on the safe return of tourists. After dinner, while we were sitting about the fire talking over our trip, the proprietor brought the great register, with pen and ink, and we penned our naives and jotted down our impressions of the lake. That night we slept soundly on our beds of pule fern with the relieved feeling that that part of our trip was accomplished. Since writing the above the crater is much more active. The banks of Dana Lake where we stood that night, are now molten lava, having fallen into the lake and so cr.- larged her area. Halemauman is agaiu smoking, after lying dormant for several years. Several other small lakes and blow holes have been formed, and it is said that the glow can now be seen at Hilo, thirty miles distant. To--. I know not what my tongue can say It hath not said of yore, I know not what my pan can write It hath not writ before, To wish then "many merry slays" In this the coming year May faith and hope and happiness Thy pathway ever clear ; And may the sacred torch of Love Its golden glory shed True rays of sunshine in thine heart, o A ie head. h halo o'er t o For, ah, no joy withinmy y soul I have not breathed for thee; But, darling, words are all too poor. -- So dear thou art to me. Nona LAUGHER.,... WIU. POSITIVELY CURE CHAMPS, PMS 1H THE STOMACH Bowel Complaints, Diarrhoea —ASO SUMMER COMPLAINTS KEEP A BOTTLE IN THE HOUSE. SOLD C3V Ai..i t)EALe'FIS. Mind wandering cured, Rooln 'carnet In ono reading. Testimonials from all parks of the g obo. Prospeatuseon r'ng-, dent on application to Prot A. Loisotte, 237 FiithAve. New York. • WORM POWER 3C $sc pleasant to take. Contain their owit enroativo. 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