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A Europeof iig.hts, h
It is a wonderfully selfish thing
to do: to take your children to
Europe, to see through their eyes
some of the -sights and sites you
have experienced before, and to
see the hew things freshly with
them. We packed our days and
nights so full of miles travelled,
things seen, and -impressions
gained that we can allude to only
the very highlights, as some one
of us remembers them.
When we think of Europe now,
we think of lights. Our first night
on the Continent was spent at
Brussels, where, like all tourists,
we wandered to the Grand Place,
the exquisite square surrounded
START OF CONTINENTAL JOURNEY — Ten former Lis-
towel residents recently completed a three-week tour of
kik seven European countries, starting, NO ending the Conti-
nental-partof the trip on the ferry boat from England to Eu-
rope. En route to Oostende from Dover, in the foreground,
Chuck and Nancy Tatham, Mary Kay and John Coates.
Seated behind, Dr. Aileen Coates, Keith Coates; Bob Coates,
Jamie Tatham and Dr. Ruth Tatham. Tenth member of the
group, George Tatham, was the photographer.
N�
by the Town Hall and the ornate
heights of the old guild houses of
by -gone years, refurbished and
glistening in the last rays of the
sun. After the weary children
were in, bed, we four adults re-
turned ,to the square, and were
rewarded by the delight of a.,
quarter moon framed between
two towers of the Town Hall!
That Town Hall was constructed
in two periods, the right wing
being added later, and having
some major differences in Gothic
style. It is said on good report,
that the architect of the later
wing was criticised for a
non -plumb window, and jumped
to his death from a side tower
(not one of those which framed
our lovely moon) and perished on
the cobblestones beneath.
I said "we four adults re-
turned" because throughout the
Continental tour, we were with
the Coates family, also former
Listowelites: Keith Coates, now
with a Toronto firm of chartered
accountants, his wife Aileen (a
female physician, like the writer)
and their three children, Bob,
Mary -Kay and John, who have all
been close friends of ours since
the days we stared across Jack-
son Crescent at each other .. .
when we lived at 33 and they at
32! How well do Aileen and I
remember the sunny September
morning in 1964 when Mrs. Edna
Parrish came to baby-sit the
younger children while we tool
Bob and Jamie off to start kin-
dergarten at Central Public
School under the vivacious Mrs.
Yvonne Gedke!
But back to the lights of
Europe!
There was another fairy night,
when housed in an auxiliary wing
MAJESTIC DOGES' PALACE — The Doges' Palace, with St. Mark's Cathedral behind
and the Venetian Lagoon in the foreground, continues to attract much attention from the
visitors to Venice. While other areas of the canal city appear ready to slip beneath the en-
croaching water, efforts to maintain the majesty of the Palace have been fairly success-
ful.
RESTORATION OF COLISEUM— The centuries have been kind to the ruins of Rome but
in the Interests of maintaining the amazing architectural masterpieces, restoration work
is being carried out in many areas including the Coliseum (above). No lions, or Chris-
tians, were visible in the basement areas (foreground) but the streets and hotels of Rome
abound with tourists in this Holy Year.
1.
'f
of a quaint hotel right On O
banks of the Rhine, we looked;
from our bedroom windoWa tt>~
watch the silent lights of the shl'
steal up and down • the peaCeftd
river. The following night, 'Wink-
ling
tW nk-ling in the rain, the lights of
Heidelberg Castle, high on ' a
great hill above an old .rte
Roman - bridge, beckoned us to'
come and enjoythe merry haunts
of The Student Prince.
Nights later, along with, many'
more of -the 47 people on our bug
tour, and our very energetic and
informed courier, Leslie, we sat
in the balmy evening of St.,
Mark's Square in Venice, the
floodlit glory of the Bysantine
("Venetian Gothic"! ) cathedral'`
to our left, watching a quick
dance of light as a hawker triedto
sell batteried yoyo's! Bill Ring;
from Australia 'bought one, and it ,
quickly fell apart, whereupon he
took it back to the vendor, who
boxed it, and slipped it in at the:
bottom of the pile; to be re -sold to
the next unwary tourist! "
Then there was the soft evening
light in a hotel garden at Sor-
rento, as we sat eating intricate
Italian ice -creams, walled in by, -
banks of flowers, enchanted by a
long-haired sveldt signorina who.
plucked a guitar as she sang the
songs of Naples in a very sweet
soprano. Behind her, visible'
through the lattice of grapevines
growing on an arcade, was the
clear white stone of a hotel look-
ing out over the fascinating blue
water toward Capri. world. This City of Light had seen
Sordid Light forsake it and build himself a
Another memory of lights is- palace at Versailles whic would
blue and red, tiny slits of coloi draw the wonder of the wolld for
filtering through the west win-
dows of the cathedral in Milan at
suppertime. Externally, Milan's
Cathedral is the most ornate and
largest Gothic church in Italy .. .
then you step past the guarding
gentleman at the door (your
shoulders and knees reverently
draped! ) and enter the cool depth
of a simple structure, nearly
empty, circled by columns, and
lit only.by the bits of light passing
through those high, narrow
windows of stained glass, and by
the wavering illuminations of the
prayer candles lit by worship-
pers.
Light . the sordid flashcube
light from the camera of a nun
who pushed past us to photograph
the glass -sheathed glory of
Michelangelo's "Pieta" in St.
Peter's in Rome, totally, disre-
garding the signs everywhere
which requested that no photo-
graphs be taken! Could she not
see that Mary's "Why?" over the
and water
dead body of her Son was better
remembered by the tears in the
corners of our eyes than by any
imprint on a square of photo-
graphic film? What°'is true illu-
mination, anyway?
Then there was the lovely light
of all . the towers and spires of
Lucerne, marching across the
Swiss horizon as we cruised softly
around Lake Lucerne listening to
an earnest young chap struggle
manfully to make the cliffs
resound as he blew his Alpine
horn.
City of Light
But the loveliest lights of all
were the pure, pure white domes
of the church of Montmartre in
Paris, Sacre Coeur, silhouetted
against an unbelievably royal
blue sky, a sky of a blue we never
saw before ... and wonder if we
will ever see again? We turned,
leaving behind the artists'
booths, the lights of the . noisy
youths who had come to paint the
dream city . . . and before us
spread the lights of Paris at
night', Paris of the tree -lined
streets, Paris of the terra cotta=
colored roofs, Paris oi*, the
planned boulevards, Paris of the
River Seine, its banks beaded
with strings of lights, its surface
sparkling with the reflections of a
hundred boats , and bridges and
buildings.
This City of Light had seen a
'Sun King, Louis XIV, a king who
felt he was the light of the French
centuries.
This City of Light had seen a
revolution when the hungry who
had no bread listened to a Queen
who prattled in ignorance of
eating cake, then rode later to a
guillotine to lose her head, hated
by the people of the City of Light.
This City of Light had seen a
little Corsican come and pull
down its old, mean places, and
build himself a city which would
be a tribute to hien long after he
lay in a great red stone sarcopha-
gus, dead of a cancer which
proved that even the mighty
Napoleon Bonaparte was prey to
mortal ills.
And we pondered all this light,
as we rushed through the bowels
of Paris in the Metro, the sub-
way's train -garishly lit, dispell-
ing the darkness of an under-
ground tunnel, a tunnel not too
unlike the Paris sewer tunnels of
which Victor Hugo wrote in an-
other era. In the heat of the Metro
train, we remembered another
tunnel, a Catacomb tunnel un-
derneath Rome, in which we
groped weakly following ' a little
guide (from India!) breathing
closely down his neck lest he
leave us behind in the damp and
eerie passages, alone with all
that mortally remains of Christ-
ians (and some pagans!) of two
thousand years ago. Tiny electric
bulbs wavered their specks of
light, his flashlight picked out the
Christian symbols on the walls,
here a fish, there a painting of a
dove, beyond that a dim picture
of St. Peter and St. Paul. And all
that made life real, all that em-
phasized that we were a few
dozen people from Australia,
New Zealand, South Africa and
Canada (and one from Califor-
nia !) was the pale reflection of
our wary• faces, our eyes con-
stantly watching which passage-
way the light toolA stumbling on
until, suddenly, thbre was light
again, and we were creatures of
the day ... and Nancy chased a
mercurial green lizard under a
hedge in the bright sunlight .. .
"Lefthere be light ... and there
was light!"
Europe, then, ks light to our
memories.
Heights and Water
When we think of Europe, we
think of lights, heights and water.
Lights we have already dwelt
upon.
Any discussion of heights must
be prefaced by my comment that
I am one of, those people with
more than just a respect for
heights; I am afraid of great
heights. But our recent jaunt
through Western Europe has re-
duced much of that fear, simply
by necessary exposure to great
heights, not just looking at them,
but being up there !
The Rhine River. runs from the
Alps of Switzerland down be-
tween and through many coun-
tries on its way to the sea. We
picked if up at Cologne in West
Germany, and traced it upstream
for nearly two days, and later
picked it up again in Basle,
Switzerland.
The great glory of the Rhine is
not its mighty flow and its use as
a highway for commerce and
pleasure. The great glory of the
Rhine is the string of castles,
many in ruins, which march like
elderly sentinels along the tops of
the steep hills containing the
Rhine. We two adult Tathams
had revelled in the sight of those
castles on a previous trip . . .
They seemed the same this time,
MARBLE ARCHITECTURE --Marble of many colors, strengths and textures graces the
facades of buildings throughout Italy and other European countries. Above is a front view
of the rose, green and white marble cathedral in Florence, Santa Maria del Fiore (St.
Mary of the Flower) .
MICHELANGELO'S DAVID — Chuck Tathm (left)- and-
John
ndJohn Coates, both formerly of Listowel, were understand
ably impressed with the Michelangelo masterpiece
"David" displayed in the Academy of Florence. The awe- -
some figure, with his sling at rest in his laborer's hand, was
the result of an insight which has few, if any, equals. Fash-
ioned from marble rejected by another because of a flaw,
David was completed in approxinhately 24 months.
as mysterious as ever, towering
above the terraces .of vineyards
which stretch. unbelievably steep-
ly toward the skyline, using every
square foot of southern slope ex.,
posure to grow the sweet grapes
which have made the Rhine and
Moselle Rivers so famous. In-
stead of gliding up the Rhine's
surface for a few miles on a little
cruise boat, we stayed on the bus
and drove quickly to the town of
St. Goar to await the boaters. Our
reward was immediate: above us
loomed the hulk of Rheinfels
Castle, shadowing the town, and
itself a museum of ruins, close by
a country club with a swimming
pool and tennis courts built on top
of an almost -mountain (these
Gernnans are very stubborn and
very energetic when they decide
to do something !) . And so three
Tathams and four Coates strag-
gled up the steep and curving
cobblestone road to the Castle.
Part way, mercifully, to give a
legitimate reason to stop for
breath, a quaint grey slate house
hovered beside the road: slate
roof; slate walls, made charming
and inv iting by a tiny neat lawn
and vivid geraniums. On up we
panted, hurrying so that we
would hie back down to the bus
before our sin of commission had
been' discovered ... on up till we
stood in the courtyard of the
largest castle ever built on the
(Continued on page 2)_
FAREWELL, CRUEL WORLD— The "Bridge of S ighs" in
Venice, from which prisoners condemned to life inwrisort-
ment (in the Doges' Palace on the left) got their last view of
the Grand Canal on their way to their cells. Few made the
return crossing from right to left.