HomeMy WebLinkAboutThe Exeter Times, 1889-5-9, Page 3ABOUT TOWN IN TRIPOLI.
'Very Odd Sights and a Noble Rollout
Arch.
I write in a atone•peved gallery that looks
doyen upon the inner courtyard of a queer
little semi•Eestern house ogling itself
" Hotel d'italie; with my door wide open
for the sake of fresh air. Through the arohee
that run along the front of the gallery I
oetoh a glimpse of the tall, white, tapear-
• pointed tower of a native mosque etauding
boldly out against the warm, dreamy eloud-
less blue of the Afrioan sky„ and behind it
eeveral tall palm trees expend their vast
plumy fans rejoiofng in the denting sunlight,
My water jug has aaet been filled by a: bare.
footed Moorish chambermaid in a purple
scarf and partioolored skirt, with her hair
hanging half way down her back in two long,
blank tails, heavy golden rings of antique
pattern inher dusky ears, and her supple
boobs innocent of all oovering.from the knee
downward save what nature originally gave
them,
In the courtyard below me a sturdy native'
is chopping wood and keeping time to the
measured stroke, of hie hatchet with a low,
dirge -like Arab song, which is probably
older than the Norman Conquest, while be-
side him two awartby, half-clad, white -
turbaned boatmen are quarrelling as shrilly
as parrots over their respeotive shares of
the money which they have just received
for bringing a passenger ashore. In a word,
I have passed from Half Eastern Malta to
wholly Eastern Barbary, and am once more
face to fade with the quaint, primitive,
dirty, useless, ,unprogressive, picturesque
barbarism of Mohammedan Africa.
No sooner had the boat which brought
me ashore from the steamerr come alongside
of the . low, narrow pier of the Custom
House, (whiob looked as if built of all the
loose stonesthat had fallen down from the
neighboring houses,) when I was confronted
by three or four 'grim3ooking Turkish
policemen, who accosted me in broken Ita-
lian and sternly demanded my passport.
This was a puzzler, for, although 1 had
seen more than enough of the paseporb
system in Eastern Europe and Aaiatio Russia.
I had never yet encountered it in any pari
of Aldose and had no idea that it even
existed there. I promptly replied that
not only had I not got a passport, but that
I had never had the elighest intention of
getting one ; whereupon the worthy officials
looked quite as much puzzled as myself,
and held a hurried consultation in guttural
Turkish, being evidently at a loss what on
earth to do with me now that I was there.
At length it occurred to one of them who
seemed a little brighter than the resb that
whatever might be the ultimate issue of the
affair, it could do no harm to examine my
baggage in the meantime. Nothing trea-
sonable being discovered, they handed over
my bag to a native porter and then formed
me into a procession and marched me off—
whether to prison, to a hotel, or to the
Pasha's judgment seat, I did not kn:w, and
did'ot very much care.
Just ab first my escort consisted merely
of the two boatmen, the porter, a passing
Greek bartender, who had stopped to see
the inn, and a tall Mohammedan policeman
who would have greatly startled the
"Yonge Sb. egad" had he suddenly appear-
ed among them, his uniform being simply a
veru dirty blanket folded round and round
body, and pulled over his face like a
d. But the sight of an "infidel i! ering-
hes" led captive through their streets was a
treat sufficiently rare to draw after me a
crowd of the true believers of Tripoli, which
reminded me of the throngs of Bashkir! and
" Turoomans that used to follow my steps
through the grass -thatched los zears of Tash-
kent and Samarcand.
without name or dietlnotive mark of any
kind ; all run into each other in a way that
alight have bewildered Fenimore Cooper's
"Pathfinder" himself, and all (es amatter
of oourse in any Eastern city) are unlighted,
save by a stray lamp here and there over
the door of some c ifielal building or some;
wealthy resident in the proportion of one
light to four or ,five thoroubfaree. Amid
the windings ot such a labyrinth the boldeet
explorer would soon find himself in the
game dilemma ne that luckless sailor who,
returning late at eight from a drinking bout,
slipped the end ,of his wooden leg into the
hole of a revolving turn000k, and walked
round and round all night under the impros•
tion that be was going a traight home.
Just at the further end of the be Aar stands
a small painted turret that looks as if it had
jamb come out of a toy shop. In its side
appears a tiny clock, which, being the only
public timepiece in all Tripoli, is very much
looked up to " in every memo of the word,
and has given to the 20•foot dust petal in
which it stands the imposing name of
"(lock•equare." But as it keeps only
Turkish time, (which is naturally six hours
behind that of Europe)) any new•oomer who
should refer to it would not find himself
greatly benefited thereby. Just round the
corner of the square is the arsenal, .where
20 or 30 gaunt, siokly.looking Turkish
soldiers, with faces as heavy and 'expree
aimless as if carved in wood, are dragging
about sacks of "gunpowder," one third of
whioh is coal dust and another third sand.
From this point a short, broad, dusty
street leads straight to the eastern gate of
the town, above whiob towers a tall, blank,
stern -looking building, tenanted (as you
may see from the red -:tapped sentinels in
front of it) by no less a person than the
Turkish Governor himself. High up in its
huge, high front you can descry three or
four small windows, fenced with green lat-
tice work, behind which the human dolls
that people the Pasha's harem wear out a
monotonous existence in lounging, dressing,
smoking, gossiping, Dating sweetmeats, and
wondering what life oan be like in: those'
strange Western lands of which they have
heard vague rumors, where women are ac-
tually free' to do whatever they please:
The fashionable throughfare of Tripoli,
so far as it oan be said to puttees one at all,
is ogled by a great stretoh of ' courtesy the
Marine Boulevard, being in reality a street
about a foot wider and rather more than a
foot dirtier than the rest, running between
a row ofbig semi•European houses and the
upper part of the sea wall, along the parapet
of whioh extends a narrow, uneven path,
connected with the street below by three or
four slippery flights of broken stone steps.
Whenever a steamer is Doming into or going
out of the Harbor this parapet is crowded
with group! of idlers, (of which there is
always an inexhaustible supply in Tripoli,
while the street itself, as soon as the
cool of evening begins to replace the scorch-
ing heat of the day, becomes a perfect pro-
cession of European children with their
European papas and mammas, all looking
very sickly and cross, and all manifestly slak
to death of the country and everything con.
neoted with it. " Just fancy," said an
Italian resident to me yesterday morning,
with the tone and look which some tender-
hearted Anglo-Indian might have used in
describing the worst horrors of the great
Bengal famine of 1873, " we haven't got a
single theatre here V'
It is characteristic of Tripoli that the
most remarkable monument in the whole
town—one might almost say in the entire
province—should be so hidden away amid
a litter of squalid and unsightly hovels
that a careless observer might easily let it
pass unnoticed. Indeed, more than one
student of Mr. Murray's red -bound Koran
has left Tripoli under the impression that
the " Arch of Aurelius " exieted no longer,
having doubtless expected to see something
like the Aro de Triomphe ab Paris or the
Brandenburger Thort Berlin or the "Gate
of Tiberius" at Ancona.
But the wonder is actually there for all
that. Picking your way along one of the
narrower streets that lead up from the
harbor, you are struck with an indefinable
something in the aspect of a shapeless block
of masonry on your right, •which impresses
you sufficiently to make you halt and take
another and a closer look at it. This second
glance reveals to you. in the midst of the
rough stones and rubble with which Turk-
ish barbarism bas filled in and blurred its
magnificent outline, the grand sweep of a
noble ohmic arch, which, with its massive
blocks and its smooth, symmetrical masonry,
asserts itself uumistakably through all the
unsightly chaos around it. And there on its
side, distinct in every line as when it came
from the carver's hand 1,715 years agn, the
oar of Roman conquest, whirled along by
the mythical she -wolf with which Rome's
history commences, is seen rushing like
a hnrrfcane over ' the necks of prostrate
nation!:
Seventeen centuries of storm and battle
have failed to dislodge one block from its
walls or to shakedown one stone of its roof.
When it first rose above the Mauritanian
palm trees .Christian martyrs were being
thrown to the lions in the newly -built Coli
scum at Rome and painted savages were
hunting wolves over the future site of Lon.
don. Since that time the Roman Empire
has vanished from the earth and the savage
"Britanni," who were Virgil's chosen type
of the lowest barbarism, rule thrice as many
lands as the prondeet Calais, while a new
world of which the boldest classic navigator
never dreamed has arisen to epread its re-
nown over the whole. Bub although the
very site of Aurelius's palace is now un-
known and Aurelius himself is but a dim
hietorioal phantom, this strange old menu-
ment of his greatness still stands here like a
tombstone of Rome's departed glory, the
acme yesterday, to day, and forever.
DAVID KER.
In this order we at length reached a low,.
deep arohway in the front of a tall white
house with grated windows, at the door of
which a fierce -looking Moor in a smart, red
Turkish oap was standing', or rather, loung-
ing, on guard. My guides signed to me to
enter, and the moment I did so the words
"Consulat de la France" caught my eye, and
I understood the whole affair. Tne Turks.
' misled by the fluency with which I ran off
into French when Italian failed to answer,
had mistaken me for a Frenohman and
brought me to the French Consul—a pro-
ceeding whioh, however complimentary to
my pronunoiatiou, left me in all other points
just where I was before.
I apologized to the Consul (a very courte-
ous old white -bearded Frenchmen) for hay.
ing disturbed him to no purpose, and order-
ed my escort to take me at once to the Eng-
lish Consul instead.
When we came bundling up a narrow stair
into the outer room of the British Consulate,
the Secretary—a quiet, pleasant young fel-
low in spectacles—looked greatly surprised
ab our intrusion, and probably thought (mur-
der being the fashionable crime In this un-
sophisticated region) that I had attempted
to murder the Greek bartender aforesaid.
and that the poi ceman had " run mein "
before I had time to do it. But all was
speedily explained, end I. found myself at
liberty onoe more. Of course I was bound
to compensate the worthy policeman who
had had to accompany me through this
wild-goose chase, but as he was quite satis-
fied with 1f., whereas the passport would
have coat 8i., it struck me that after all I
was just as well without it.
The, first thing that strikes a travellerin
his earlier impressions of this strange town
is its purely Eastern' character. A town
whioh contains only 500 Europeans to 30.000
natives and which has never been under
European influence since the days of the
Emperor Charles V., can hardly be expect-
ed to be—like Tunis and Algiers -a mere
earloate a of Parti- or Naples seb in an Afri-
aian frame. G. where you will, you see
on every side the deep, narrow, moat•like
streets, the high blank, windowless walls,
the flat roofs, the grated windows and the
bewildering zig zags of Demasous or Serusa-
lem.
But Tripoli presents two striking features
whioh neither Jerusalem nor Damssous can
parallel. The countless dingy alleys of the
great bazaar, instead of being roofed in as
usual with mattingo of dried grass, are cano-
pied withlpluirtering vines, the fresh green
leaves ant tendrils of which twine around
the light oro0s poles placed for their support
in an endless' maze of delicate beauty' that
contrasts very prettily and gracefully with
the universal filth and unsightliness around
it. Coupled with this feature is another
even more picturesque, which I do not re
• member to have seen elsewhere. Almost
every one of the foul, narrow, crooked
streets (if streets they can be called, for
they look much more like rocky clefte worn
by the rush of a Wintry torrent) is spanned
at short intervals by a number of slender
white atones, giving to the whole porspeo
tive—espeoiailly when seen beneath the
cloudless splendor of the African moonlight
—the appearGnce of a ruined aisle in some
ancient cathedral, such as Macliee would
have loved to paint or Sir Walter Scott to
describe.
Bub to take in 'a midnight vieW of this
strange town le a hazardous experiment int
deed, for the maze of dark, filthy, uneven
lanes of whish it coneiets--puzzling enough
oven iia broad day—are absolutely hopeless
at night. ; All are exactly alike ; all are
A Troy Tragedy.
The laundry "girl stood gazing at a pair
of men's' hose which she held up toward the
window. They had been sent in as mates.
but one was beak and the other wee striped
and blue. "This is rather ,pair-o-sooks-
ioal," she remarked, then fell with a splash
into the wash•tub.—[Merchant Traveller.
A canvasback duck is said to be able to fly.
eighty mike an hour.
A. correspondent of The :Btaton journal,
who visited Harriet Beecher Stowe recent-
ly, found the distinguished authoress quite
feeble, Speaking of herself she said :
ca My life seems like a dream. My Work is
done and lam enjoying the luxury of per-
fect rest and freedom. I'can'b rometnbor
what I read nowaclays. My mind is r'
blank. But I am resolved into love. I
love everybody, even the dirtiest beggar
upon the street." What a sweet, golden
sunset tb a life of cooed deeds.
Raoently published atatihtics show that
in the three years,' 1886 7 8, the number of
vessels which passed through thl`,. Sault Ste.
p
i
Marie banal increased 47 or cont, their re'
gistored tonnage ncroased 65 per cent., and
the tonnage of the freight carried by theta
fnoreased'06 per gent. This is a most re•
markable andwing.
Rheumatism
and Neuralgia
These twin diseases cause untold suffering,
Doctors admit that they aro diiDcult to cure—
, so do their patients. Paine's
Celery Compound has per
maneetly cured the worst,.
oases of rheumatism and
neuralgia—so say those who
have used 1t.
"Having been troubled
with rheumatismat the knee
and foot for five years, I was
almost unable to get around
and was very often confined,
to my bed for weeks at a
time. 1 used only one bot•
tie of Paine's Celery Com-
pound, and was perfectly
cured. 1 can now lump
around, and feel as lively as
a boy." lritANB CAROLI,
Eureka, Nevada,
After suffering with chronic rheumatism for
several years,'I was induced to try Paine's Celery
Compound, and after using two bottles found my
self greatly improved. Iu fact, after using three
bottles, have not felt any rheumatism, Can con•
scientiously recommend it. Yours very truly-,
Mae. P. COWAN, Cownzevxz s, P.Q.
Paine's
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HI have been greatly afthoted with acute
rheumatism, and oould And no relief until 1
used Paine's Celery Compound. After using
six bottles of this mediolne 1 sin no'er cuffed 01
rheumatic troubles."
annum. RU8C13INso1, So. Cornish, N. S.
Effects Lasting Cures.
Paine'aCelery Compoundhas performed many
other cures as marvelous as these, -copies of
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does not disturb, but aids digestion, and entire-.
What's t .
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Ufa of suffering, longer with rheumatism or
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$1.00, Six for $5.00. Druggists-
-0 Mammoth testimonial paper free.
WELrs,RICHARDSON bCo.,Props MozTSsdx,.
DIAMOND BYESCora thit'an any ofhherrii es.
BABIES Living upon Lactated Food are Healthy,
Sappy, Hearty. It is Unequaled.
The Most Expensive Leather.
" The most costly leather in the world, so
far as'I know," said a dealer in fine skins
and leathers, "is known to the trade aspiano
leather. American tanners years ago die -
covered the secret of making Russia leather,
with its peculiarly pungent and lasting odor ;
but the secret of tanning piano leather is
know only to a family of veneers in Thu-
ringia, Germany. This leather has but one
use, the covering of piano keys, A peculiar
thing about it is that the skins from which
it is tanned axe procured.almost entirely in
America. Itis a particular kind of buckskin.
The akin of the common red or Virginia deer
will nob make the leather, a species of the
animal knows, as the grey deer, and only
in the vicinity of the great Northern lakes,
alone furnishing the material. The German
tanners have an agency in Detroit which
collects the skinsot this deer from the Indian
and half-breed hunters, who supply the mar-
ket. The hunters are paid an average price
of about twenty cents a pound for the green
skins. When the skins are returned to this
country as piano leather these cost the piano
manufacturer from $15 to $18 a pound. The
world's supply of this invaluable and neces-
sary material is supplied by the Krizohmer
family of tanners, who have six establish-
ments in Germany, the lamest and the best
as Gera in Thuringia "— [N. Y. Sun,
Children Walking.
Among the poorer classes the child learns
to walk far too soon. The evil results of
early attempts at locomotion are seen daily
among the poor of our large cities. The
poorer children not only are forced to walk.
e.t an early age, because the parents have no
time to take care of them, but they so often
have the rickets, or bone -disease, when the
body ie large and the limbs are small and
soft and are easily bent, making bow-legged
or knock-kneed children. 'Nam children
raised with care are able to et,ad with ease'
and walk, the feet should have proper pro.
tection. Socks should give way to soft oboes
with no heels. Children are generally so
clumsy for the first few years of their life
that heels. on shoes would increase the
number of falls to an alarming extent
Mothers seldom give proper attention to
shoes for their children. When the foot is
forming and growing. the shoes should be
comfortable ; not too tight, so as to crowd
the toes and produce corns, nor too loose, so
as to rub the feet.
Discovery of a Yrehistorio Canoe.
A discovery of considerable arobleclogioal
Interest hasbeen made upnn the Berton sec-
tion of the Manchester, Eng., ship canal.
Recently, whilst the excavators were at work
in what fs known as the "Salt Eye" cutting,
the steam navvy broughttolightaprehistorio
canoe. It was embedded in the sand, about
twenty five feet below the surface. With
some difficulty the canoe waa removed to a
shed in the vicinity of the engineer's iffice
ani examined. It was found to consist of a
portion of an oak tree, roughly hewn and
fashioned. In length this relic is 13 feet 8 in-
ches. Unfortunately the vessel sustained
some damage in the inthlees grip of the
"navvy," the bottom havingbeen cat through
at the bow end, while a portion of one side
is broken in. But for this mishap the canoe
would have boon recovered practically intact.
The Czar'% Unloving Brothers.
LONDON, April 27.—The "Cologne Ga-
zstte" aeserta that it is an open secret that.
the Czar ifs displeased at the conduct of his
brothers, the grand dukes Alexis and Vladi-
mir, who, when the Czar returned to SI
Petersburg after the railway accident at
Gorki, neglected to congratulate him upon
his miraculous escape from death. The "Ga•
zatte" says that the Czar is disgusted at hie
brothers' yearly trip to Paris, to indulge in
the frivolity of the gay capital, and it is
rumored that Alexis will lose the command
of the Russian navy, of whioh be is the
admirable chief, andthat Valdimir will be
translated from his command of the army,
with an easy and luxurious post at St,
Petersburg, to the rigors of the Caucasus.
• How he Managed. it,
"Do you ever go to bedawith cold feet?"
asked the medical man.
"No sir," said the patient. ,
"How do you manage it t"
"Oh, I just lay down tbe law."
"What do you mean ?"
"Why, I never have cold feet myself, and
I won't let her get into bed until! here are
warm also."-tWasp.
In the City of New York there are up-
wards of fifty able Methodist preachers who
ate paid leas than five hundred dollars per
year.
The covered bridge at Pavia, over the
Tloito, was built in the fourteenth century,
The roof is beta by 100 granite columns.
JOHN LABATT'S'
Indian Pale Ale and XXX Brows Stout
Highest awards and afedals for Purity and Exoel.
lance at Centennial ixbibition, Philadelphia,
1676; Cana11a,1876 ; ,Australia, 1877 ; and
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TESTIMONIALS SELECTED :.
Prot. 8 Croft, Public analyst, Toronto, says :—"Lend 'it
to be perfectly sound containing no impurities or adulter-
atiol sand on stronrelyreoomnlonditas perfectly pure and
a very superior rualt liquor,"
John 13 Edwarns, Professor of Chemistry, Montreal, says:
"I nodal= to be remarkably soling ales. brewed from
plus malt and hops
Bev. 13; J.I'ld. Page. Professor of Chemistry Laval Ile.vor
sity, Quebec, says :•--"I have analyzed the Indian Pale 'Ale
Fnannfaotured bvJohnLabatt, London, Ontario, and 'aye
found it a lightalo, containing but little alcohol, of a deli-
cious flavor, and of a very agreeable taste and superior
quality, and compares with, the best imported a1ea. I have
also analyzed the porter XXX Stout, of the same 'brewery,
which is of excellent quality • its flavor is very agreeable ;
it is a Ionto more energetic than the above ale, for it is a
little richer inaleohol, and oan be compared advantage-
ously with any imported article.
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Tla u E Adz UO-, Box 241.0. &unustrs. Maine.
How Lost, How Restored.
Just published, a new edition of Ur. Culver -
Celebrated Essay on the radical cure of
SPI9RMATOItaHuA or incapacity induced by excess or
early indiscretion.
The celebrated author. in this admirable essay,
clearly demonstrates from a thirty years' successful
practice, that the atom inx consequences o! self-
abuse may be raaically cured: pointing out a mode
of cure at once simple, certain and effectual, by
means of which every sufferer, no matter what his
condition may he. may cure himself cheaply, pri-
vately and radically.
Imo' This lecture should be in the hands of every
youth and every man in the land
Sent under seal, in a plain envelope, to any ad
dress, post-paid, on receipt of four cents, or two
postage stamps. samples of itesieine free, Address
THE CULVERWELL MEDICAL CO,
41 Alai Street 7,:ATew York
Post Office ]3ox 450 4483'-ly
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H AS
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THE
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