HomeMy WebLinkAboutClinton News-Record, 1980-04-17, Page 37HQw to grow a tree: a -slat
Whether :they're majesti-
cally tall and imposing, or
short, sprightly and
sassy—whether they pro-
duce sweetly ,perfumed
dowers, or luscious -tasting,
fruit—all trees have• their
owns personality, and can add
something special to the
landscape.
So, it s important to select
a tree carefully tomake sure
it will create the picture you.
have in mind. And, it's even
more important to make sure,
you plant them correctly, or
you'll end up with no picture
at all, 'according to the new
Ortho book, "The World of
•ees,
"
if you're careless, you'll
probably have to, bury your
tree before you get the
chance to plant it! Most trees
are watered every day, while
at the nursery, and they
sideration once you "bring
them home.
When you're, ready to
plant, prepare a hole at least
12 inches wider and 6 inches
deeper than the spread and
depth of your tree's root
system.
While digging, set aside the
top 6 inches of soil in one
pile, and most of the subsoil
in another: then place the last
few shovelfuls of soil into a
third pile which will later be
used for building a dike
around a watering basin.
The next step is to mix
Soot zone" soil for your tree
comb;ning equal parts of
organic matter, like mois-
tened peat moss, with the top
soil you have saved. You
must also mix a "transition
soil," using one, part organic
matter to four parts of sub-
soil.
Before adding any of the
mixtures, loosen the soil in
the bottom. of...th.e. ho.le._tO..:.
Planting a bare -root tree (from the Ortho book, 'The World of Trees")
Planting hole Should be at least 12 inches Wider and 6
inches deeper than the spread and depth of the root system.
t'l.11 t I
Planting
hole
Root zone
soil -
allow for root penetration
and better drainage—then,
line the hole with 4 to 6 inches
of "transition soil."
Next, using the "root
zone" soil, make a cone-
shaped mound directly on
top of the "transition soil,"
and set the roots of your tree
over this mound.
Now that your tree is posi-
tioned in, the planting hole.
make....Sure—that .it's placed at
Transition
soil '
Existing
soil
the same depth at which it
originally grew, which will be...
evident from the soil -stained
ring at the base of its trunk.
Then. work 2 or 3 shovel-
fuls of "root zone" soil under
and around the roots to elim-
inate air pockets in the plant-
ing hole.
Before you add more soil,
you'll have to stake your tree
for support. Simply drive a
stake that's approximately 2
Po not prune
leader or
erall twigs
Prune here
Wire through.
garden hose
(forming "figure 6")
2" x 2" stake
in direction of
prevailing wind
soil to form
a cone
Line hole
with 4" - 6"
of "transition
zone" soil
Burlap or
tree wrap
paper
inches wide, 2 inches thick.
and._.about 6 to 8. feet long,
into the soil about 6 inches
away from the trunk. on the
side of the prevailing wind.
Then, fill the rest of the hole.
Build a watering basin with
the soil you've saved by plac-
ing a dike 4 to 5 inches' high in
a circle 2 to 3 feet away from
the tree trunk.
Finally, secure your tree to
the stake by threading a 12 -
NU \ \ \ Xi\ V\ V\ \\\\\\\\ XkVAV& \\V&\%\\‘‘k •
Existing soil
Page 15
Insect eontr.ol
gauge. wire through a short
length of garden hose and
twisting the wire around the
trunk of the tree and the stake
already placed, in the form of
a figure 8.
Now that your tree_ is se-
curely, planted, it's a good
idea to prune it, according to
Ortho's "The World of
Trees=' not only for beauty's
sake,' but to balance the top
of the young tree with its re-
duced root system.
t trees
Preventative measures
taken now can protect fruit
trees from insect damage
later.
Break the cycle of such
insects as aphids, apple
maggots, and cherry
maggots by applying
preventative sprays before
the insects lay eggs.
Aphids, tiny clustered
plant lice, should be .eon-
trolled now, says T. J.1310n1,
Ontario Ministry " of
Agriculture and Food hor-
ticulturist.
The insect, which infests
cherry, plum and apple
trees, weakens trees by
sucking . sap from tender
shoots and leaves. Aphids
may also transmit diseases.
"The only way to control
aphids is to kill them in the
adult stage before they lay
eggs. Spray or dust the tree
as soon as aphids appear.
Mr. Blom suggests using
insecticides such as omite,
malathibn or thiodan to
control aphids. Spraying or
dusting should be repeated
every 10 days until aphids no
longer appear.
Apple maggots also should
be controlled in their adult
stage.
Spray every 12 days
through late June and July
with Sevin, diazinon :or
malathion.
Apple maggots lay eggs in
the fruit of the apple and
plum trees. Larvae, which
develop from the eggs leave
brown holes in the fruit and
may cause fruit to drop
unripened. Cherry maggots
should be controlled in their
adult stage.
Mr. Blom suggests
spraying every two weeks
from June 20•to July 10 with
Sevin ordiazinon.
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