HomeMy WebLinkAboutClinton News-Record, 1977-11-10, Page 30hWA L'15E
Page 14
Serviced engine starts faster in winter
Short of a heated garage,
there's no better insurance
that your car will start on a
frigid morning than a
properly serviced engine.
Since warm garages are at
a premium, the best way to
avoid a frustrating wait for a
tow truck is to get your car in
proper shape before cold
weather sets in. The service
needed is far less exper sive
than heating that garage.
Most cars with starting
troubles begin winter with
worn spark plugs and
defective ignition systems.
The incidence of hard -
starting complaints reported
by car owners, climbs in
'direct proportion to the
number of miles the plugs
have been in service.
To make sure your car
doesn't show up on the list of
"won't starts" this winter,
here's a check list of the
items which should be in-
spected on your car before
the weather turns cold:
Have your serviceman
check the battery with a
hydrometer to determine the
specific gravity. If specific
gravity readings are low,
have the battery recharged
and make sure he determines
the reason for the low
readings. If battery condition
appears doubtful have the
mechanic test it for weak
cells. Also, be sure he
removes all corrosion from
the battery terminals and
lubricates them . so the
corrosion won't reoccur.
Remember corroded cables
and terminals restrict the
flow of electricity through the
entire system, and can ac-
tually prevent the car from
starting if allowed to go
unattended.
Make sure the regulator is
properly adjusted. An out -of -
adjustment regulator may
not allow the battery to
charge enough, or may result
in overcharging which will
contribute to poor per-
formance in general and
reduced gasoline economy. If
your car has over 20,000 miles
on the odometer better have
your serviceman run a check
on coil condition.
If the plugs are nearing the
10,000 -mile mark, they should
be replaced before the
weather turns cold as worn
out plugs are probably the
biggest single factor in hard
starting.
It is also a good idea to have
your mechanic check the
engine with a timing light.
Out of time engines not only
are much harder to start but
lose much of the efficiency
and performance they were
intended to deliver.
eventually ruhrthe battery.
Starter and generator:
Chances are if your car is
only a year or two old, these
components will be okay.
However, make sure your
serviceman removes any
corrosion that might exist on
either starter or generator
connections — and that they
are all securely fastened. If
you car is over two years old
better have the generator
brushes and commutator
looked at. Badly worn
brushes reduce the generator
efficiency and can result in a
constantly weak battery.
If yourdcar has been driven
more than 10,000 miles since
the distributor has been
serviced you'll probably save
yourself a lot of trouble by
having the mechanic install
new points, condenser (in
engines that use them) and
How much
is enough?
The real impact of the en-
ergy crunch is felt acutely
each month when high heat-
ing and cooling hills arrive in
the mail.
While there are a number
of short-term methods which
can help to conserve some
energy, there's one sure-fire
way to help significantly re-
duce the amount of fuel your
home uses for heating and
cooling—even up to 30' i
All you• have to do is insu-
late the attic flour properly.
Attic insulation is the
single most cost-effective
conservation method we
know of around the house.
"Naturally if you Ike in
severe weather areas or if
utility rates continue to rise.
the insulation will pay for it-
self more quickly."
How much insulation is
enough? According to the
National Bureau of Stan-
dards, all homes should have
a minimum of 6 -inch thick
tihcr glass insulation (R-19)
on the attic floor
order
uffler
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249 HURON ROAD GODERICH
524-7744
making whatever- ad-
justments are necessary.
Improperly operating
distributors are a major
cause of starting difficulty.
Again, if your car is
reasonably new, chances are
you won't have to worry
about coil condition.
However, better keep in mind
that a weak coil can not only
cause starting failure but also
DON EDWARD DON SCRUTON
EDWARD FUELS SCRUTON FUELS
GODERICH , CLINTON
Today, before winter comes, call
your Shell Agent. He can help keep
your home comfortable - no matter
how much it snows and blows outside.
Get ready for winter by calling your Shell Agent
now. Make arrangements with him to have your
heating oil delivered automatically.
He'II make sure it is -all winter long—because
he's an expert. He takes daily temperatures into
account, measures the effect of cold snaps and
looks at your past fuel consumption record. So your
heating oil is delivered—right on schedule, your
furnace doesn't run short and your home stays
comfortable right through the whole winter. •
Call him today. You'll warm up to your Shell
Agent. Fast.
Warm personal service from your shell- Agent.
Count .on it for home comfort during the winter.
t
»♦
i
Insulation - the 'heat saver
Almost all insulation is
lightweight and easy to
handle. Few tools are needed,
but care should be taken
when you're working with
mineral fibre -type insulation.
Small insulation particles can
cause skin irritation and it-
ching. It's a good idea to wear
gloves. And a shower at the
end of the day will'wash away
particles left on the skin.
When you're ready to start
in the attic area, pull on a pair
of running shoes and watch
your step. Walk only on the
ceiling joists. Most ceiling
surfaces under the joists are
plastered; too much weight
will puncture the ceiling.
Boards laid across the joists
will give you a sturdy
working platform
To cut batt or rigid in-
sulation use a sharp penknife
or blade. Lay the insulation
on a flat surface for cutting.
Any accidental cuts in the
vapor barrier should be taped
before the insulation is finally
applied.
A heavy-duty staple gun is
essential for applying batt
insulation. You should be able
to rent one from your in-
sulation supplier or hardware
store.
Measure your walls and
floor and attic area carefully.
Once you've decided on the R
value you need, talk over
your requirements with the
i dealer. He'll help you figure
out the right number of bags
or bundles of insulation. It's
bulky, so have it delivered.
Store it in a dry place until
you're ready to start to work.
Since warm air naturally
rises and tries to escape, the
ceiling is a major source of
heat loss. Fortunately it's the
easiest place to add in-
sulation. It deserves first
priority for re -insulation (or
"retrofitting") an existing
home or insulating a new one.
Good ceiling insulation will
return fuel savings of bet-
ween 10 and 30 per cent
depending on house type and
existing insulation.
First, find out the condition
and depth of insulation
already, in your attic. Some
older homes have none; most
have a small amount — a 2 -
inch or 3 -inch mineral fibre
batt — and this may have
settled or become water
damaged.
You should have a ceiling R
value of 20 or more; which
means at least 6 inches of
insulation. If you have less
than that — say a 3 -inch batt
— you should upgrade it in
one of two ways:
Add a further 3 inches of
batt or blanket insulation.
You don't need a vapor
barrier because there should
be one already on the ceiling.
Buy insulation that comes
without the barrier. When you
lay the insulation, be sure
that all areas are covered
except, of course, for the eave
vents and other ventilators.
You can also use bags of
loose fill. Pour it between the
ceiling joists, then use a
garden rake or a pusher
(made from pieces of 2 x 2"
and 2 x 6") to smooth and
settle the insulation into all
the corners. The fill stould at
least cover the top of the
ceiling joists — higher if more
thermal resistance is
required. Check the R value
per inch printed on the bags.
Again be sure not to block the
vents.
If there's no insulation and
.lo vapor barrier in your attic,
install one before insulating.
In„,this case plastic she'eti
looped over the joists and
fitted snugly down to the
ceiling board would be best.
The ceiling in a new home
or extension should be in-
sulated to at least R20. This
means at least 6 inches of
batt, blanket or loose -fill
insulation, and an effective
vapor barrier on the lower
(warm) side of the insulation.
The extra cost of a good in-
sulation job will more than
pay for itself over the life of
the house.
Your walls are the second
most important source of
heat loss. Aim for a total wall
resistance of R14 or more.
This means an R factor for
the insulation of at least 12,
about as much as can be
achieved with batts or
blankets and 4 -inch wall
studs.
If your plans, permit ex-
tensive renovation, remove
the wallboard or plaster and
re -insulate the wall as you
would a new one (see in-
structions below). Then
replace the wallboard. While
you're at it, you might want to
gittach 1 x 2” or 2 x 2" strips to
the stud edges to allow for
more insulation in the wall
cavity. ,
To avoid the trouble of
removing the inside surface
of a wall, or when this can't
be done as with masonry
walls, you can apply new
insulation (batts, blankets or
rigid panels) to the inside
surface. Apply straps to the
wall to attach the insulation
and covering wallboard.
(Remember the styrofoam
should be covered by plaster
or gypsum board.) You can
use 1 x 2" furring strips for
thin styrofoam; use at least 2
x 2" strips for batts, blankets
or thicker foam. Once your
strips are in place, apply the
insulation according to the
instructions below for frame
walls.
If you have hollow, or
almost hollow, wood -frame
walls you can have a
professional insulation
contractor blow in lode -fill
insulation. He can do this
from the outside if small
sections of the exterior can be
removed, as with clapboard.
If the exterior is brick,
aluminum siding or stucco,
he'll have to drill holes in the
interior walls and repair
them when he's finished. When you're insulating new
Care must be taken that the,, -walls, the idea is to put in as
much insulation as the stud
space will accept. For extra
insulating value, consider 6 -
inch studs or a layer of
styrofoam sheeting on the
outside (under the exterior
surface). Follow the in -
Turn to page 16 •
formaldehyde. This must be
done by a professional. Check
the prices in your area and
pick the contractor carefully.
entire stud space is filled —
that no projections or cross -
braces hinder the filling
process.
The cavity in older wood -
frame houses and in some
masonry walls can be filled
with a foamed -in-place in-
sueh
sulation,
as
urea-
kle
-7'1 Last Winter was
a Winter to rem
umber.
BE PREPARED THIS YEAR - SEE US F R
BISHOP POURING
WOOL ,oLB. BAG $3.,9
ZONOLITE
3 CU. FT. BAG
EVERYDM �
SOW PRICES.
ON ALL YOUR HOME
ENERGY SAVING NEEDS
AUL G
TUBES
RELY - ON 69f
BUTYL. ;1 .69 TUBE
WEATHER
STRIPPING
111
TOP WTI
R-10 3" THICK 15 x 48
70 SQ. FT. $ 69
R-20 6" THICK 15 x 48
30 SQ. FT.
R-8 23/4" THICK 15" x 48"
135 sq. ft.
105 sq. ft.
R-12 31/2" THICK 15" x 48"
R-20 6" THICK 15" x 48"
R-20 6" THICK 23" x 48"
R-28 8'/," THICK 15" x 48"
R-28 8'/a" THICK 23" x 48"
90 sq. ft. 9 3.45
SO sq. ft. $12647
76 sq, ft. 18,99 18,99
32 sq. ft. 90.80
48 sq. ft. 96.2°
SUPPLIER MEASUREMENTS
Feel free to call us at any time with your in-
sulation requirements. Just give us an idea of
the type and thickness you require and we'll
tell you how much you will need.
RIDGID
FOAM
INSULATION
Ys"x4x8 $1.,38
3/4"x4x8
1"x4 x8
1'/s"x4x8
2"x4x8
$2.27
$2•99
$4 80
3/8 x 18' FOAM TAPE (ROLL)
THRESHOLDS 3'
No. 2209 BUMPER STYLE
No. 2210 JR. DOOR SWEEP
GODERICH YARD ONLY.
OPEN WEEKDAYS 8:30 A.M.-6 P.M.; SAT. TO 5 P.M.; THURS. Et FRI. TO 9 P.M.
DELIVERY IS AVAILABLE - AT REASONABLE RATES!
TO BE FAIR TO OUR CUSTOMERS, WE RESERVE THE RIGHT TO LIMIT QUANTITIES!
CASHWAYLUMBER -
155 ANGLESEA Si'. GODERICH
Phone 524-8382 or 524-8383