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Exeter Advocate, 1907-07-04, Page 3NOTES AND COMMENTS The Iron Age says there aro two sides to the controversy over broken rails. 'fhe rodeo:ids say that the quality c f the iron is worse than 1t was. The makers of the rails say that the iron is as good as ever but is subjected to Unusual strains. Driving wheel loads Lave Increased 49 per cent., while the increase in the weight of rails was ".G per cent. The increase in driving wheel leads since 1893 has been 60 per cent., while the increase in the weight of rails hue been 2v per cent. The rails are prepared under spx'cificn• tunas from the railroad companies. 11 1s plain That a large share of tete blame must be placed upon the com- panies. The increase In the weight of traits calls for greater strength in the rails. 7'ho high speed of trains brings increased pressure to bear upon rails at curves. Under the Inst conditions the rails are required to do more ser- vice Than twenty years ago. But when the rails are subjected to the pounding c; badly balance.' driving wheels, and when fust trains are riot over lines which were not constructed wiin any Stich weight or speed in mind, some- thing wilt give way. It is possible that sight modification in the shape of :he rail will give it more strength, but it will be necessary to increase the weight of the rail from an average of 90 pounds per yard to 110 or 120 pounds. in view of the acceldents due to de- fective rails some railroads have order- ed rails with a larger percentage. ( t carbon, some with a smaller percent- age. Added carbon means greater hardness and, consequently, fewer ac- cidents due to wearing of rails. Di- minished carbon means less brittleness rind, consequently, fewer accidents caused by snapping of rails. The right mean between the two is still a matter of conjecture. It may be true, as some railroad managers assert, that poor steel is used by the mills. 1t must be true, as the mill managers assert, that the railronds have not sufficiently con- sidered the necessity 61 putting in bet- ter rails for their new traffic. Old bill not old fashioned is Damas- cus, the oldest surviving city in the world. and the most typical oriental In Turkish domains, but far to the fore in mailers electrical. Overhead trol- ley cables are in the streets, and a few miles up the Borndn river Ls a station for generating electric. motive power. rS1 first the street service will Dover only some five utiles through the city from suburb to suburb. Electric lights have been instnlletl, and are lighting Damascus to the number of 1,000 street lumps. besides these the company has put in more powerful lights in the Grund efesque, in the public squares. enol in the Serni. Private electric lights nre coon to he introduced in shops and residences. Tho Installing company is itelgian. Sante of the electric supplies and apparatus have come from Rnghind, Germany. and France. but all cars, erofnrs, and dynamos have been bought 1.: Belgium. Concessions in lighting and sired railway undertakings have Leen granted to corporations in Da- mascus, Beirut. Aleppo, Smyrna. an•1 Satonica. There are signs, gradually n:ulliplying nit bet -tinting more pro- nonnced. that tete dawn of a great awakening slowly is breaking in the Mar each. 4— The lovely lichens of nnture lovers have proved a useful reason for exLst- ertce. These pretty plants are 11►e first o nitnck rocks and They vastly aid in reducing rocks to sell, Lichens, such As the "reindeer mess." nre food for Wit roan and animals in high mirth - ern r.•gi.ms, where other pinnt fend is 114)1 available, Another specie in north Akira is liken long distances by the pend, and, falling in the deserts where {test is scarce, is eaten by men and animal?. 11 is suppose{ to have Ie'en the manna of the children of Israel. Other species are tnp•nrtant fuer both neon and beast in Finland. Greenland, bylaw'. Norway, and Swdvlen. The neIritive qualiites are due to peculiar starclilik,' compound. Slimy species rermx'rly were eon,eidered medicinal. Shiny dyes, chieflyreds. purples, and 4 blues, are used for the coloring et Vette mood, etc. Litmus used for test- ing trate and alkalies in chemical ex- it perinrents is obtained from lichens. phi, lly in Holland. Orscillo is another Mine for !hie dye. It is supe eeeei to be the 'blue and purple" of the Old Testament. AFTER DIWF:AKFAe'I'. "What's your name:" ":\Ilan. muni." "\Vhal! Thet's a queer name f•,r a ern m p." "N'•pe. not so gseser; len het:ding up de worl.l." W(dl'I it 6101 -TEN IT. P,4, trien—"\Vhat a horrible whine you haw" In asking for andstaaeoe. You ou rift tc have your were• valead." f r e inp —"Dot's Mot i Mats Mow kr brae. T'm l'1nkfa' tw harts' alma WM. rtgsIed." T11E POWER OF GENTLENES Much Wretchedness Caused by Harshly Judging One Another Thy gentleness hat► made me great. I1. Samuel, xxii., 30. It is easier to recognize a man's greatness than to discern the secret If it. And yet wen are always very curi- os about the process by which a great than hus reached his eiuinnee. A man was curious to know the sec- ret of 1'aganini's power over the violin. lie got a room next to Pagunini's et an inn and watched him. Ile saw the lereat musician when he arose in the stiornhtg lake the precious instrument, Oface it under his chin, make a few lasses over it with the bow, kiss tete Lack of it and, looking up, murmur a prayer over it. Then he locked it in its b:.x again. No ono ever stowed the possibilities there are in a violin as Page tilni. Ile could make it sound like e. wail from the lost world, and lie could make it ring with joy so that you would think you heard the songs of paradise. And the secret of it was that he loved the instrument. In this little text, "Thy gentleness Path made me great," one of the great - eat men of tate world speaks to us. Ile was so great a ruler that many men look back to hien as TIIE IDEAL KING. .Ile was so greed a poet that all ages since have used his songs to express 'their worshipful emotions. Ile was so great a men that God conferred upon hien the title, "The pian after God's own heart." And the secret of his gr•ealness is revealed to us in the text. The psalm from which it is taken sketches his life. 1l tells in musical monis the story of David's career, and it reaches its climax when David kooks up into God's face and acknowledges that all that he has and is carne from llun. "Thy gentleness hath made etc great," he says. Just as a mother broods over her child arid shapes 'ts character, so God Wooded over David, and by gentleness end forteerance that .surpass anything that a neither ever felt 11e loved David into greatness. Per- haps we never know very much ulx,ut how God loves us wail we hove our own child ern our arms and know how dear it is to us. Once lel a Han get it into his soul that God really cares for hire more fondly than any mother ever cared fur her child and his heart will have a lightness it never had before, his sent Will know a pet)ee that the world is an utter stranger lo, his cares will be sransformed so that they will Wive ..tile power 10 distress hire and life will be s., sweet at times that heaven will seem only a, continuation of it. Perhaps the most crying need of our tune is u revival of this grace' of gen- tleness. \Ve are very quick and cruel in our judgments to -day. Men who are tsmcerely trying to do good are VILIFIED AND CARICATURED. No man in the public view escnpes the roost brutal criticism, and we aro just as severe on each other in the private walks of life. Perhaps no other evil in the world produces so great a har- vest of wretchedness as this habit of harshly judging one another. Sone men are ashamed of tenderness and gentleness. But a man is sadly dc- Itrienl who lacks feeling. Gentleness not only makes us great, but it is n sign of greatness in itie roan who has it. And, happily, it is a forte of greatness that all can achieve. \Ve may never be able to acquire' wealth. We may not have great thoughts to write. \\'e may not have the skill to paint scenes of beauty. Bart gentleness and goodness al' can attain by God's good grace if we will, and they aro more potent in the world than any other form of great- ness we know. REV. FRANK M. GOODCIIILD. ************* HOMEt* ***********. SOME DAINTY DiSIIES. French Potaloes.—Take small new po- tatoes, scrape and parboil thein. Ilave a pan with deep fat in it, and Id all corse le the boil; throw In the potatoes, and let Ihern cook slowly till n golden color. .Dry by the tire, scatter dry salt and per - pet over, and serve. A Hood Plain Cake. — Work four ounces of lard or dripping into one pound of flour. edd six ounces of sugar, a tenspoonful of baking -powder, and a pinch of salt. Bent up ono egg in half a pint of milk, and gradually bent into the flour, with half an ounce of carra- way seeds, nr tour ounces of currants. Salop Pikelets.—These, to be at their best, should be made when there is a pint of buttermilk available. Work into the milk enough (lour to nunke n thick batter, add to it n little snit and a small teaspoonful of baking -powder, also cns- t. r sugar. Mix well, divide into even pieces, make into thick round cakes, which should be served either toasted or just freshly bakes. Salmon mind: -'rake n lin of salmon of any good brand, empty the fish out on to a plate, and carefully remove all akin and Mone, ln•enking the fish as little ns ro-.sible. 'Take Iwo lettuces, wnsh the leaves, Wipe very dry, rind set mound the dish, the salmon being in the mid- dle. Keep in a cool place till renely for use, and pour slowly over half a pint of gnod mayonnaise entice. Garnish the lettuce with slices of cucumber. and serve. Ilodderk and Tomatoes.- -Pour beetling wader over n dried haddock to scald it, and then pet it esonk for an hoar; akin it. remove the brine's, and break tine flesh into flakes. Dissolve one ounce of butter In n pan, cook in it till tender a finely -chopped onion and two sliced tomatoes, then add the fish and cook for len minutes. seasoning with cnycnne pepper. snit, and chapped parsley. Serve In n border of boiled rice, garnished s ith cul lepton and pnrsley. llnricol leans rued baron make n gond dinner in waren weather. when meal is not n^eeptnble. Wash and souk one pound of hnricot beans overnight in cold water; rinse and put therm Into a snucepon, cover with mid wrier. add a reeled onion. and let boll for Iso hours or till tender; remove the onion, drain 1'1.• beans in a colander, melt the batter in saucepan. put the beans again into it, and toss over the lire till well coated. Season with pepper, snit. and chopped parsley. Serve with boiled bacon, and garnish with slices of fried t.ncon. Savory Mould with beef.—Boll Iwo carrots. iwo turnips. and n smnil onion. (:uh these into thin rings. and with them Thickly line a plain buttered mould so that its contents cnnnot le seen Through this ornnnhenlation. Next ebop some co0nt finely Hix it with a fourth its weight in hreadcrinbs. Season with chipped shallot. mace. pepper. sail, mushrexun. catsup. and flvoie•Ien it with Iwo eggs beaten ur with n little gravy. Prees thee mixture into the m-'tild. cover it with buttered paper, and Menai for one hour or 14 nger nc'or.ling to the size or the mould. Tum n on to a hot dish, and pour some thick gravy Tumid. .•alter browned dried brcadcrumbs over the es ;cold, and serve. POI.i'iIEf 1'lOO1fS. Peitshed Boors and r:ge are becoming much more generally twit. A fitted car - pm .hewing n fi,v r itt 'i :.ten thing of 460 est. elly on tee pint fk.nr, and 1t M rii7 nr`-essnry to have themLammthat wi:l not only iri Oona, tut which can be Lammot e•at without an undue amount of limo being spent on then:. The easiest and best way of hav- ing floors attended to is to go to a first- class firm That can be relied upon to use only the best materials. To do the work right it must of necessity cost stoney, often more than (hose of limited mtejms can afford. it is, therefore., necessary I., know something about the pmcess, :end the best way of doing the work, as i1 is decidedly better to buy good mater- iels and have thein put on by unskilled labor than to accept a cheap estimate, where only the poorest quality of mater - ire' can be sup- plied for the price. There are excellent materials That can be fought, and by inquiring at the stores Inc names of these can be obtained. 1f a floor has been badly finished, and is sticky and worn away in parts, it is lest to entirely remove all the original stain by using a good solvent, which c:en he applied on the old finish. This well soften it. and it can then be rubbed ort. It is best to use a steel tool to remove every trace of color, so that The floor Ir.oks like new wood. The next process Is In use a good filler, whether the wood be hard or soft, when the color is to be light. it fills up the pores and grain of the wood, and insures a smooth, hard surface. 'fhe Inst process is the apnea. lion of a hard wax finish; it is easily applied with a cloth. and polished with a weighted brush. A cloth can be used if the brush is not obtainable, bot the brush, of course, saves time. The wax can be rubbed on a little at a !tine, anti fifteen minutes Inter can be polished. Max can be bough) in light or dark colors. If the floor is to k- dark when Iir.isheet, the dark shade is hest to use. Ir floors me finished in this manner, they can be kept in good order for years by applying the wax and polishing once or twice a year, and this can easily be done by the maid or one of the family. IIC\"fs TOn TIIE IIOME. Fine table salt rubbed on mnrhle will remove n stain unless tine latter bo of loo king standing. Item snaked in water over night will ne found exceedingly tender when eaten the nest morning. To remove grease from wall -paper rub the; spot over once or twice with a pia•e of flannel dampened with alcohol. Onion juice is a good remedy for corns. warts, and insect biles, if the onion is rubbed on the infected part. 11 is aloe good) to gut onions into slices, pour vinegar over them. and lie Them on the corn or wort and keep them there until the latter have softened and can b•- mince n1. A teaspoonful of the juice of a bonen in n sninll t up of black coffee almost certainly relieves a bilious headache. The finest of manicure rads is made by pulling n Ieasponnful of lemon juice into 't cupful of waren water. This removes steins from the lingers mid nails and hr.sens the cuticle mere than can be done by the use of a sheer instrument. An exeelb'nl kien for pantry shelves is lc give them Iwo coals of ordinary' white paint and than a third noshing coat of white enamel. As soon as the enamel dries. wash it over with cold water, and then it will harden quickly. Ike not cover these shelves with pnper, Mut leave them hare. and not:cc the improve- ment. The enamel is eerily wiped elean with a damp cloth. To Remove Dirt from Brown Tloe•ts.-- i)is...lwe n little saddle snap in warm, sof. water. Put the bots In this, and with a piece of sponge wash the boots th.'roughly without making the leather very wet. wash off the soapy w•nter in plain soft water, and dry in the air. 'then polish the Monts In the usual way. To keep plated silver clean and bright without eenslant cleaning. which is so injurknrc to plated nrtielec. ,ticsed e n email handful of borax in a Lasin with 3 Ii111e net water and a little soap, put the silver in. rind lel It stand for Three or four hour,: then pour ef1 the suds. rinse a illi Glenn. cold water, and wipe with n rest; cloth. When abut to bake try ail Oven every t ten minutes nr %with n piece of while leper. Il this blaze's or blackens directly tt is put in, the oven is lex, tierce for any- thing; if at the end of a minute or two the p aper becomes of u dark, almost chocolate. brown. the oven is fit for small pastry. such es putties, etc.; if it turns a lightish brown (the tint of a cigar), you may put in fruit pits and tarts; if it turns a darkish yellow (about the shatle of deal), the 0%011 is til for game or meat pies, powid or other rich substantial cakes, or bread ; but for sponge cakes, meringues, etc.. the paper Aleut(' only just become of u pule yel- low --in fact, should but just discolor. This is a most excellent way of testing an oven, and may be thuroughly relied 011. THE SUNDAY SCHOOL IN FERN VI ION LCssON, 11 I.'s 7. Lessor 1. God Feeds Israel in the \\ il- derness. Golden 'feet: John 6. 51. TIIE LESSON WORD STUDIES. 'lased on the text of the Revised Ver- sion. From Egypt to Sinai.—The effect of the overthrow of the Egyptians upon the hearts and minds of the Israelites was to inspire them with deur and awe at the marvellous manifestation, of Jehovah's lower. In the words of the Exodus nar- rater, "And Israel saw the great work which Jehovah did upon the Egyptians, and the people feared Jehovah and they believed in Jehovah, and in his servant Moses' (Exod. 14.31). The escape out of Egypt and the power and goodness of Jehovah are commemorated in the Song of Moses and Israel which the biblical naralor introduces at this point. Leav- ing the shore of the Red Sen. Israel new turned its face toward the east and set out to journey to he Land of Promise. This journey of 1110 children of Israel has not inaptly been compered with the Mecca pilgrimage from (:afro, an annual phenomenon in ninny respects similar in character. Indeed, this similarity is emphasized in the Hebrew word for "exodus." which is "hug." and the signi- ficance of which is perpetuated in the modern haj of Mohammedan pilgrims. The route taken by the Israelites was not however the modern caravan route straight across the northern end of the reniusula, but the more circuitous one familiar to students of the Bible as the traditional route of the Exodus journey. and which followed in a general way the coast line of 1110 peninsula southeast to Sinai, and from thence northeast to the viciniy of Kudesh-barnen. A sum- mary of the itinerary of this journey is given in Num. 33. 1-49, where forty-one stages or forty stopping places between Itaamses in Egypt and the 111181 encamp- ment of the Israelites at the Jordan !liver are enumerate'. In this .summary the dales of starting (the fifteenth day, of the first month, of the first year) and of Aaron's death in the fortieth year ;the first day. of the fifth month) of the desert jertirney are naso recorded. The recent researches of Neville have set• led beyond rea.sonable dispute the first stege of the line of march, and a closer knowledge of the Sinaitic peninsula en- ccuruges the belief that' before long the correctness of Iho traditional site of Sinai and the traditional Exodus mule as a whole will also be established be- yond question. The first stopping place of the Israelites after leaving the shore r,t the Dead Sea MOS at a place called Ellin, where fresh water was found. This was more than three days' journey from the place of crossing the Sea, though probably not far from the shore. Verso 1. Elim --On the assumpllon that the trnditional site of Sinai is correct. Elim has been identified with a fertile wady basin near the const, nixed one- third of the way from the northern end of the Rot Sea. The wilderness of Sin—The sirnilnrily between the names "sen," "Yen," rind "Sinai" has been frequently pointed out. It is possible that the deserts of Sin and 7.in have loth received their name from the niou,ntnin, Sinai, though in the Ex- odus narrative es we now have it the two are carefully distinguished. The wilderness of Sin is the name given to the oven plain west of Sinai. while the wilderness of Yen (mentioned later in the narrative Num. 13. 21. and cLsc- where). lie.: in the opposite side of the peninsula fur to the northeast. 2. Murmured against Masee and against Aaron --The hardships of the overland desert journey were for it large majority id the Individual mesnlw'rs of this great inigrnling host crrtninly not trilling. A scarcity first of water and then of food were anwug the grievous trials which they had to bear. 3. When we sat t.y the flesh-pots— 'rhe expr•ss,nn may he taken literally, but in it wider ligturntive sense it stands for the abundance of food of every kind which the Israelites. whatever their other afflictions had boa, had enjoyed in Egypt. 4. Bread from heaven- Lit., "food," nut hn'nd in our sense of the went (con/''. vole on verso 1.4, below). The people shall . . . gntb('r a days perlion every day— A severe lest of obedience and faith. especially when the supply for each day was sufficient to stake possible the gathering of a larger a,rw ant in advance. 7. It. The glory of Jet►ovah--11 1s nap quite clear whether the reference here is to the glory in the cloud, mentioned in verse 10. or to the miracle of providing foul. We are inclined to accept the latter view. The rending of the next verse as neutered in the Ile ised Version seems to require this filen relation. This shall be, when Jehovah shall give you in the evening flesh o eat. and in the morning bread to the hill. 9. And Moses said unto Aaron, Say— Aaron is dill the spokesman. or, talker. the mouthpiece, kir \treses, who. as we remember. had a physical difficulty of speech whi^h he nppnrenUy never over- came : "Ail \fuses said unto Jehovah, Oh. ford. I am not eloquent. neither hcretofere, neer e:nee thou hast spoken unln thy servant : for i nrn slow of speech, and Cf a slew• tongue" tl:xnd. 4. 10). tt. .,t even -1:t "ietveen the Iwo esenings,' that t- 'he late afternoon. 14. A small, round thing, small as the hnsr frost on the ground --The word Iranslaled "round Dung' may also leo soldered "flake." 15. What is it 7-0r, 91 is manna"; Ilcbrew. man hu. In Num. 11. 7-9, wo find the following description of the Henna : "And the manna was like cori- ander seed, and the appearance thereof as the appearance of bdellium. The people went about, and gathered it, and ground it in mills, or beat it in mortars, and toiled it in pots, and made cakes of It : and the taste of it was as the taste of fresh oil ter•, cakes baked with oil?. And when the dew fell upon the caner i i the night, time nrannu feta upon her, with it." It has often Leen attempted to explain the feeling of the Israelites in the desert by assuming that the manna was a natural desert product, the exuda- tion of a desert tree still comun, and formerly doubtless rnt.ch more abun- dant, throughout the Arabian peninsula. The exudation referral to is described by travellers as a glutinous, waxlike substance whist in the nwrning after its first apearnnce is µMil.:, changing ra- pidly to a dirty yellow color ; it melts quickly in the sun, and before the day is over is absorbed in the ground; it appears each morning during certain months of the year and is sweet, to the Mete, being used for fond in times of famine. A more recent explanation identities the mama with desert lichen, l ravish -yellow in color, which grows in great abundance on rocks and stones of the desert. When fully matured the leaves curl up; the plant loosens from the trick and is blown about by the wind, being gathered ultimately in heaps ed the ravines and sheltered places not unlike the leaves of autumn, though of course very much outdid. This plant is a not uncommon substitute for corn among the natives in the stepre region of swathe, ,tern Asia. being ground and baked lake coin. It is dry and has an insipid !lisle. Referring to these and other attempted explatwtiens Professor Alexander Maculister, of the University o! Cambridge, writing in the llastingss Bible Dictionary, says : "None of these could be the manna of the Exodus, which was a miraculous substance... . They are physiologically insufficient as food and can keen indefinitely." es the manna of the biblical narrative could not. Another barrier to the acceptance of this natural explanation of the man- na is that these natural desert products are found only in small quantities and at certain times of the year, while the (laily provision of food for the Israelite's ccntinued during the two score years of their desert pilgrimage. 4• .tl1.11G1.AR AS "GIRL." Young Criminal Masquerades as House- maid Satisfactorily. Vienna police recently entered the confectionery eslablisltrnent of M. Lu- I.cracs, Budapest, and arrtseed trete housemaid, Rosa, for burglary. The notice accused Rosa of being Aiexanier Nemety. a young roan of 19, who was wanted for a series of ingen- ious thefts, and the prisoner at once ad- mitted the identity. Ninety explained that he was fired r! hiding from the police, and that he dressed himself in a girl's clothes and look service with \I. Lukacs on the strength of a servant's references which he had stolen for the purpose. Ile acquitted himself excellently as a houseninid, and might not have been detected if he had not slipped out in his own clothes to revisit his old haunts, and been traced back to Inc house. Mine. Lukac.s told the police that she considered lose lite best servant she ever had, as she was strong and wil- ling and never wasted time with the tradesmen TUE NEST IN TiHE TREE. The sun was just peeping over the hills. The leaves of the trees stirred gently, and ri sleepy voice among the branches said : "Mother, 1 an so hun- gry. When may we have something to eat !" "les. mother. dear," came a chorus of voices. "we are so hungry. May we have some breakfast." "Yes, my dears," replied the little brown trotter bird, "you shall have something jest as soon as 1 can go out and get it." Poor little mother ! She had five hun- gry mouths to. fill. But they were n happy family. Soon each of there would be able to fly and get his own hreukfasl. "Oh, nether," cried) one of the Tittle ones, "you said you were going to teach Bright Eyes le fly to -day." "Yes," .aid Ike mother, "I ern. When 1 relnrn, and we have eaten, I will leach yeur Nester Bright Eyes to fly." "Oh 1" cried Bright Eyes, "how hnppy I shall be, for then 1 may help our dear smother to feed the rest of you until you are also slrong enough 10 ily." "Gout -bye, another, dear F' cried the birdies. as she kissed each one of them before leaving. "I'll relur•ri soon, children," and away she flew, res guppy as could be. A little boy stone' by the roadside. Ile held a little air -gun in hie hand. "Oh. I see something at whlrh 1 can shoot !" he cried, and lie pt.lted (ho Irig- gdr. 'there was a soft flutter and down fell the poor little mother bird with a shot through her brave little heart. oh, oh!" cried the birdies. "\\'by doesn't mother .Done! We are so hum gry 1 ' They wailed until the sun was very high. "Oh 1' they cried. "What is keep- ing our dear mother so king?" The sun wens down in the weal and still she did not return. [emir little bir- dies! Bow they cried. Al Inst Bright Eyes. who was the strerigesl. said she would try 1n flu arid find the mother. But pe sor little Bright Eyes fell over the edge of the neat and lay very still hep ou He ground. She never opened her bright little eyes again. Then. one by one. the others grew too weak to cry any more, and they each lucked their little head and. rneath n wing anti lay quiet in, the nest. They never woke Grain. The little toy who made all Uus sor- row was net really cruel ; he was very the ughlfss. 1f you se" a little toy who n see Ihoughlkas, dear children. jure Iel1 hint 81 111 the poor little mother hire) and her babied and beg him to be kind. London uses 217 million gallons of water daily. • 11-11-14+444+41-111-1-111-6 Fashion Hints. tIH••i••1•-i••i-i-i••1• • i••ii•-i••i••ali-1 ••tH-i-ti••i▪ ' NOTES. Linings _for the sheer cotton gowns are preferably of lawn made into a slip skirl, which may or nifty not be elabor- ately trimmed, but must be cut on the same lines as the outside skirl. 'fhe Parisienne still clings to 11►e silk I.ning for the lingerie gown, and must of the imported models are mode up ever a white ore colored silk founds -- lion. The softer silks, particularly those of satin finish. are chosen rather than taffeta. as they lend thennselves better to the clinging effects of the sea- son. For the serviceable gown, however. taffeta is still the favorite lining. It gives a better "set" to a frock, and it a good quality is bought, lasts a sur- prisingly long time. Linen is more popular than ever. both in the sheer and heavy qualities. No- thing makes a store satisfactory cos- tume for business than one of the new canvas weaves of linen in one of the many serviceable shades of brown, dull blue and gray now so much worn. These are, as a rule, made In strictly teemed fashion. with half -fitting or light, half-length or short coats. The more elaborate linen sults are in bolero or Elan styles. Many of them show the Oriental tendency, and all are more or less trimmed. Soutacho braid- ing and hand embroidery combined are much seen on them, or the ebmroidery alone. White, or ecru, linens frequently show the color note in their trimmings. This is often given by hand -embroidered dots. Sometimes the cuffs, collars and revers are in a colored linen. Thus one stylish string -colored linen had collar, w•a s'coa! and coin of rose pink. set in Inch bands of the string -color and outlined by u narrow line of black sou - tache braid. Pattern rote's of white linen have elaborately braided designs of white anti brown, or white and pink, blue or green soutache. Dainty delle silk coats are much worn with sheer fabrics, such as voille &•r marquisette, and most attractive mod- els are shown. Some of them show loose drapery falling from a long 'shoulder line in loose folds, others have square -bib -like trimming falling loosely over a girdle, and :till others ahem modifications of the postilion back. Little black lace coals in loose hip- hngh ism dels, flaring into ripples at the b,ttom with kimono sleeves, are border- e.l with accordion-pla.ted frills of pinked chiffon taffeln. Such coals are very ef- fective when worn with lingerie gowns, either colored or white. 'Taffeta coats Si light, plaint colors, brriidcd in sou- t.ehe, are also touch used to slip on ever suntnier dresses. The three-quarter length wraps el bendy black hand -merle laces are ex- ceed ugly handsome. Many of them are n.nde up over gray instead of while elation, which gives a less glaring et - fed. They are very loose and full, lip - ting smoothly on the shoulders and fal- ling in deep ripples, sometimes straight from the shoulder seam, again from n sl:alkrw yoke. One particularly hand- some coal of black d'Alencon lace had huge accordion -plaited bell - sleeves fal- ling well below the (nips. It was made up ever while liberty satin. shrouded Lt pearl-gray over chiffon. The front had choux of black and white darker at wile intervals to conceal the fasten- ir,l2. The tailors encroach more and more on the dressmakers, giving us ornate creations o; cloth, lussor, linen and even of niuelin. NOTES FOR 'rill: SE\Wink; ROOM. In putting a whirl -waist sleeve to. gelher• always remember that the fold e t the back of the sleeve must be per. redly smooth; there must not be the slightest tendency towards a twist. 11 there is a bad setting sleeve will be the result. In putting the two piece sleeves lc. gether the same principle is involved. The sleeve never should be held up in the hinds to put together, but lakl on n lnpica•d or table. The trent seam h pinned first, being careful to have el. 14'w• curves together; tt,en the outside or upper part is folded over, so that the fold that is made by so doing is a smooth one—pinning the sena In thus manner throws the proper fullness nt the e:bow. Thin should be gathered in the smallest stitches, and the fullness distributed ever about n two inch apace. Care must be used in handling this seam from the elbow down, as it is ra- ther bias and will stretch easily. If a Mee. sleeve is put t.ogelher properly, f.11ne:ws nlwuys will to thrown to the ellwnw. 11 is only where both the upper rind under parts of sleeve nre nearly or quite the same size al the elbow that the tullnes does not ootne. It the ga- thers are put in properly and main well pressed, they are not noticeable, and form n pocket kir the elbow. When canvas is put into the bottom et sleeve. the sleeve always must tit kept right side out while the work is being don"; the canvas must be cut on the bias, with upper edge slretched little. 'then after the canons ins legated In and the edge of the sleeve cnleh s'ilched down over the cniias, the hint toeing Is basted in on the wrong aide, n little below the edge of the sleeve, and the sleeve then Is turned wrens side nut far the (inn' hernening deewn d the facing. If this were 15 d00e ewlth the sleeve wrong aide out. when en the sleeve is turned to the right side. 1110 canvas and facing will be fulled and wrinkled. sr(,f PGJ). A1.1. BIGHT. Reed --Been to tete city:' Greene—Yes. "\There did you stop,?" "All over. 1 went in my automobile, you know!" Build your hopes high—then stand from under.