HomeMy WebLinkAboutHuron Expositor, 1999-05-19, Page 11TME HURON EXPOSITOR, May 19, 1999-11
LAWX GARDEX `99
What to do after plan `'ng
Watering is the key to
tree survival. It should be
used when filling the
planting hole to eliminate
Targe air cavities, firm the
soil around fine roots and
provide nourishment for
the new tree.
During planting, bare -
root trees can be dipped in
water -absorbing polymers.
This amazing chemical
tomes under a variety of
band names and is
available from nurseries.
Its function is to attract
water when abundant and
hold it longer than soil
when conditions get dry. It
tan also be used with
balled and burlapped trees
when it's mixed with the
backfill. The effects last
for about two years. With
br without the aid of
polymers, water deeply •
around your tree once a
week during warm, dry
spells.
Unless directions specify
otherwise, it's better not to
prune after planting if the
tree will be watered
regularly. Leaves
manufacture food needed
for root growth, so the
young tree needs as much
of its crown as possible. .
Exceptions to this rule
include trees that will be
exposed to strong winds or
drought conditions, in
which case, early pruning
will reduce the demand for
water from the roots.
Always prune dead or
broken branches.
Avoid fertilizing shade
trees until late spring of
the second year following
planting. Fertilizers can
"burn" roots or stimulate
crown growth faster than
' the roots can supply water.
Stakes and guy wires
should be used only if
support is necessary. When
using, avoid common
problems by following
these guidelines.
1.If the main stem droops,
find the best place for
support ties by moving
your hand up the trunk to
locate the point above
which the top can stand up
on its own. Place the
support ties about 6 inches
above that point.
2.Ties can be made many
ways, but a loosely -fitted
figure eight ties made of
polyethylene, cloth or
webbed strap is easy to
install, provides good
support and cushions the
tree from rubbing against
the stake. Using two ties
will also minimize the
chance of bark damage
from rubbing.
3.Regardless of the tie
used, allow slack for sway.
4.Avoid driving stakes
through the root ball, or
using stakes with flanges
that will break roots when
removed.
5.Remove support ties
after one or two years.
Mulch is a young tree's
best friend. It holds down
competing weeds or grass,
retains soil moisture,
prevents soil cracking that
can damage new roots,
protects the trunk from
lawnmower damage and
helps prevent soil
compaction. Organic
mulches, such as wood
chips or pine needles, also
contribute to better soil
structure and aeration as -
they decompose. Avoid
limestone rock and allow
no mulch to touch the
tree's trunk or be piled
higher than 2 to 3 inches.
A Care Program For. Your Lawn
A preventative health
:are program for your
lawn is very similar to one
you would use to maintain
your own health. The idea
is to prevent problems.
from occurring so you
Ain't have to treat them. A
healthy lawn can withstand
most stresses such as
weeds, insect attacks and
other diseases. Use the
program outlined below as
a general guide to growing
a healthy lawn.
1. Develop healthy soil.
Good soil is the foundation
of a healthy lawn. To grow
well, your lawn needs soil
with good texture, some
key nutrients and the right
pH balance. Most lawns
need to be fertilized every
year, because they need
more nitrogen, phosphorus
and potassium. Soil that is
too acidic can be
"sweetened with lime; soil
that's not acidic enough
tan be made more "sour by
adding sulfur.
2. Choose a grass type that
thrives in your climate.
The right type of grass is
ane that suits your needs
and likes the local weather
and will always give better
results.
3. Mow high, often and
with sharp blades. Mowing
high is keeping your lawn
a bit long and it will
produce stronger, healthier
grasswith fewer pest
problems. The rule of
.thumb is to mow often
enough that you never cut
more than one-third of the
height of the grass blades.
4. Water deeply but not too
often. It's best to water
only when the lawn really
needs it, and then to water
slowly and deeply.
5. Correct thatch build-up.
All grass forms alayer of
dead plant material, known
as thatch, between the
grass blades and the soil.
When it gets too thick it
prevents water and
nutrients from penetrating
the soil and grass roots.
Reduce thatch by raking
the lawn or using a
machine that slices
through thatch to break it
up. Sprinkling a thin layer
of topsoil or compost over
the lawn will also help.
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