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HomeMy WebLinkAboutExeter Advocate, 1906-10-11, Page 3HE GREAT PRINCIPLES The Pharisee of Modern Times Is Warned By Christ 'Then Jams said unto them take :nal edict, he united with his hereditary foe, the Sadclecee, to crucify Him. Who is the Pharisee to -day? Not so enuch the man who covers his wicked - nese with a specious cloak of morality and a serupulous attention to little things, as Me bank president who woula not have a man in his employ who smoked a cigar, but who did not scruple h rob the bank of millions—he was a Pharisee in the minor sense—but the man who •makes the law the measure of his actions and whose opinion is that se long as he does not render himself legally liable he is a moral, upright man, has deceived himself into thinking that law and morals are synonymous terms. He is the real. Pharisee to -day. need and beware of the leaven of the Pharisees and of the , Sadducees.—Ma ' thew xvi, 6. One of the most .striking features about the words of Chriet is that they so far transcend circumstances and en- viro ninon t that the application of them reachetli to the end of the world and the end of time. Not less pertinent to- day is that warning which was uttered 2000,years ago. America is not Jeru- salem, but the Sadducees and the Phut - sees, iltile changed, in ail that long period, are still with us and the caution is as necessary now as then. The Sadducee was a man who sube SUMO circumetances for principles , who was governed by •conditions rather AND WHO ARE THE SADDUCEES? than convietions, whose wet -camera was "expediently," whose policy was a time; Those who have no settled or abiding serving truckle to the "powers that bee! convictions as to right or wrong, but and the determination .to fit in ,with en- are made by the prevalent opinion of vironment at whatever cost. the hour, blown •about by every wind The Sadducee was made by the things rtf doctrine, attracted one moment by about him and as a determinative tome liberalism and another moment by as - he amOunted to little. It was not, until atheism. The crying. need for the hour the•Saviour interfered with vested right le conviction—conviction ofsin, convic- eind attacked material privilege that the Lion of truth, conviction of righteous- •Saducee ,eonspired with the Pharisee, ness, whom he hated, to crucify Him. There bas been so much said about broad and beautiful liberality, and the • THE PHARISEE requirements for Christian manhood Was a man who put law in the place and citizenship and church membership of morals, who disregarded the inwatel have been so minimized that people and spiritual to acclaim the outward come to think that these are not of much and material, who cared nothing for importance, tend that a certain vague, ,cause but everything for effect, whose general endeavor to do good will an- wachword was "legality" and not swer all purposes. "righteousness," who substituted for They have forgotten that the way of the living voice 01 conscience a minute salvation is a straight and narrow way. "description for all sorts and conditions Faith before works, belief before action, of men and eircumstances, whose whole right thinking before right doing—these idea was not "is a thing right or are the great principles, and so the old wrong?" but "what is the law that gov- warning comes with a new force. Are erns?" When the Saviour with a sub- you a Pharisee or a Sadducee? Beware lime disregard for petty regulation, in- of this leaven if thou wouldst flnally sisted upon moral principles am' trans- have fellowship with Jesus, the great- cended any attempt to crib, cabin and est figure that has ever exemplified confine them in 'obsolete and infinitesi- manhood and divinity. HOME ,***Af***.gaf**fg • SOME GRAPE RECIPES. Grape Juice.—Wash and pick from the stems a twenty -pound basket of blue • grapes, crush and scald in an enamelled kettle, until the ,skins separate from the pulp. Strain through a jelly bag with- out squeezing. The pulp may be mixed •meewith a quart of hot water and left Lo dap a second time. Return all the Juice to the fire in a clean pot with from two to lour pounds of sugar, ac- cording to taste, bring just to boiling point, skim thoroughly, pour into bot- tles or gem jars and seal while hot. If bottles are used soak the corksen hot water, drive them down tight with. a heavy stick, cut the tops off flush with the top and nip in melted sealing wax. -Grapes in Cream.—To serve grapes in cream the fruit must be both reps and sweet. Detach the grapes from the stems and seed them through a small slit cut in the side. They are then dredged with powdered sugar a and are covered with whipped cream. • Another whipped cream recipe calls for the nee of the grape -juice alone. To obtain the juice, boil the fruit in, just enough water to keep it from burning, until the grapes are soft, then strain the juices and pulp through a fine strainer, and sweeten. This is made into a jelly with the use of gelatine. When thoroughly -chilled it is removed from the mould and is covered with the well -beaten cream. 'Grope Sherbet.—Any kind of grapes may be ueed in making the sherbet, the darker .varieties giving, of course, the deepest color. Stern and wash thorough- ly, place in a kettle with a cupful of water and heat slowly until the pulp will separate readily from the seeds. Turn into a colander and Mt drip, then pteSS slightly, to ()Mein Me tender pert of the pulp. Measure, and to a pint odd one pint of sugar, or tallier less than this if the grapes are very sweet, and stir until dissolved. Add one cup- ful and a half of cold water, the strain- ed juice of one lenion and freeze. When like musk open the freezer and stir in the white of one egg which has been -beaten to a meringue with two table- spoonfuls of powdered sugar. Mix thor- oughly and finish the freezing. Draw off a pest of the brine, repack with more ice and salt, and set aside in a cold place for two hours to ripen. • SELECTED RECIPES. Coldslaw.—After making cabbage soup lake the portioti of cabbage which has not been used. Shave it into fine slips, put it, into a deep dish and pour over a (11'08541g made in the following man- ner. Beal up two eggs, add one gill ef vinegar and water mixed, place it, over Um fire; when it begins to thieken, stir in a piece of butter the size of a small walnut, a little ealt, • and a tenspoon- ful of sugar, when cold, pour it, over the cablonge, and stir it together. • Be - Mee sending to table sprinkle with a little black pepper. Oyetir 131sque.—T0 the liquor drained from a quart of oyster's add water enough to make a 'full quart of liquid. Bring this to the boiling point. „Chop the eysterand turn them into the heat- ed liquor, then put alt in a double boll- er to cook gently while you cook to- gethee in another saucepan a quart of milk into which a pinch of baking soda has been stirred, and a half -cup of fine crumbs. When the crumbs are very soft, stir in two tableepoonfuls of but- ter rubbed into two of fibur, and, when the mixture is smooth and thick, pour ,t, stirring constantly, into the oyster 11 - quid. Have ready beaten the yolks if throe eggs. Take a cup of the soup from eggs, and beat them Into the soup in the saucepan, season, and serve at once. Salsify Fritters.—Scrape the stalks of a bunch of salsify, and grate them fine. Make a batter of two eggs, a gill of milk, and enough flour to make the batter of the desired consistency—about two tablespoonfuls, slightly salted. Stir in the grated salsify, and drop by the spoonful into deep boiling lard. Cook Lc a golden brown, then drain in a hot collander, lined with tissue paper, to free the fritters of superfluous grease. Old -Fashioned Spider Caine.—An olcj- fashtoned spider cake is really a milk biscuit dough baked or panned .in spider; the spider is a heavy iron skil- let or frying pan with three short legs; a century ago It eon also a heavy lid made with raised' rim so that coals could be heaped on it. Then, with are below and above it, the cake or biscuit cooked as readily as if in one of our modern ovens. In camp or when with - tett such a cover, the spider could be propped in front of -the fire, the blaze and open- heat helping to brown the Lep. Take one quart of sifted flour; sift and mix with it two teaspoonfuls of baking powder and a scant teaspoonful of salt. Rub ire two large tablespoon- fuls of butler or any shortening and wet to a dough with sweet milk. Roll cut in It round sheet which will flt in the spider or in any thIck-bottOmed-fry- ing pan. Grease the pan, lay in the cake, and stand over a moderate -fire, covering the top to keep in a part of the heat. • Watch closely and do not let it cook too fast. • When browned evenly on the under side, which should take fully 20 minutes or more, slide the cake out on a cake pan, :then carefully reverse and slide it back in the spider, covering as before until browned. Serve hot ,with plenty of butter. STRAIGHT TALK TO HOUSEWIVES. ,The astonishing thing to me in many of the Mem homes which I visit is the indifference to unpleasant or -positively offensive odors around the house or out- buildings, writes B. NV: T. Housewives who are modeis of neatness, whose kitchens are spotless, who pride them- selves upon the immaculateness of house. and person, will throw, greasy water and slops just outside the kitchen door so that always that spot is a matter of offence to the nostrils. -Or they will pour dishwater and geasy cooking water down the sink day offer day, month in and month out, without ever objecting to the odor always hang- ing about the sinks, or ever doing puglit to mitigate this nuisance. • • Worse than this0 they do not seem to recognize the peril thet they harbor In their very midst. In such places lurk germs of all kinds awaiting only the favorable moment to spread disease Because you have lived years thus, do not belittle the anger. The menace is always there. It but awaits the ap- pointed time of favorable conditions to lay weste. And it is all $o needless In thi.s day of cheap -disinfectants and knowledge of their use) There is absolutely no ex- cuse for foul odors about house or buildings. Whenever they exist they C011 be promptly end absolutely sup- pressed with the least possible effort and at an expense not worth the count- ing. Better still, with them will, die the germ s. I wish 1 could make all housewives realize the value of liberal use of dis- infectants around their kitchen sinks and dooryards. It is one of the simp- lest,. 'surest health measures of which lontiw. KfilfeleING ACCOUNTS. Accuracy is in itself an accornp- shMent, and to those who are anxious o Manage their affairs comfortably on firm basis of integrity this precaution indispensable as peotection against tree, One who keeps rie atcounts who rnply Carries about with her a' hazy tt si the flee, end beat It gradually into the rectellecteen of eimounts Spent and amounts saved, soon will find herself iiivolved in a labyrinth of perplexities, To recall with preeisiort every detail 01 one's shopping expeditions, to balance outgo and income, without some simple system of bookkeeping involves ao -Un- necessary degree of mental worry, and is an unwise waste of force, One need not be an expert bookkeep- er to set down every week in every Month at the top of a page, the sums oi money she receives from various sources—from her work if she be in busi- ness, from her profession if she be in art or literature, from father or hus- band if she be simply a lady living at home. On the opposite page it is a simple matter to jot •doWn the bills paid, the items at the several shops, the inoney given In subscriptions or charities, Anybody who understands the first four rules of arithmetic can manage eo uncomplicated a. matter as the ordin- ary accounts of an ordinary family if she will only be methodical and adhere to her selected system, and observe a certain periodicity about the work, as for instance, never letting to -day's bur- den, slip away upon to -morrow, and rtever leaving an unexplained deficiency no mailer haw small it is, until satis- factorily accounted for. No greater check an spendthrift ha- bits can be found than that which in- heres in the conscientious keeping of accounts. The trifles run away with large sums. And until we really'begin to watch with viligance, we do not rea- lize how the dimes and nickels •aggre- gate into dollars. . Oftemmoman, TURKISH GRAFT TRAGEDY IDE SULTAN HIMSELF IS FINALLY INVOLVED. Denting, Imprisonment and Death in Struggle for Private Advantages. Bit by bit there has been revealed at Constantinople one of the most absorb- ing, dramatic and impossible stories of true life that ever stepped out of the pages of the Arabian Nights and wan- dered by some mischance into the pre- sent day and hour. The principal char - Actors in the drama were, on the -sur- face, polished, cultivated men who might have been received in society any- weere — Constantinople, London or Washington. Underneath the surface they proved to have been contemporaries of (Melte and Iago. The drama, of which probably we have not seen the last act, has already resulted in the murder of the prefect of Constantinople, the execution of the master of ceremonies at the palace, and of his uncle, tha military governor of Scutari, and in the practical extinction ef one of the great princely houses of Turkey. . It all began in a trivial fashion a few months ago, when Ahmed Aga, facto- tum for the rich and powerful Redvan Pasha, prefect of Constantinople went to live in Shishli, a suburb of the city, not far from the Yildiz Kiosk; and as Et luck would have it, in the same street with Abdurrezzak Pasha, master oE ceremonies at the imperial .palace. Iledvan used his office to FEATHER HIS OWN NEST, by methods not altogether unknown in this country. The bakers' guild, for in- stance, paid him 250 Turkish liras a day to .he "protected" when they vio- lated the law against the selling et bread under weight. Ahmed was the man who ran the graft department for him. Naturally, he saw to it that he got a good rakeoff for himself. And thus .came about that he could afford fa live in style in a big house in a swell street near the palace. But despite the fact that the neigh- borhood was a fashionable one, the street, like most of the streets in the capital, was wretchedly payee. Ahmed used his pull to get that part of the street in front of his house repaved at the city's expense. Abdjutrezzak sent, him a message requesting that the pave- ment be extended -to his own house. Ahmed wanted to kow what there was in it for him. The response was not satisfactory. Then Ahmed discovered that, the funds apportioned for street improvement had been exhausted, end the !nester of ceremonies would have te wait until an additional appropria- tion tied been obtained, or pay for the extension of the pavement out of his own pocket. Ahmed was a Turk of humble meats, while Abdurezzak Pasha was head' of Om great and powerful Kurdish family ol the Bade Khans, which, 50 years back, under the leadership of Abdurez- zak's grandfather, had organized Such 'a formidable reveal, against the govern- ment that the Sultanof that day had found it expedient to obtain peace by bestowing some of the best billets at his disponi on the chiefs of the Bedr Khan, 13Y THE BEARD OF THE. PROPHET, Th,e fray had been fought almost be- neath the walls of imperial patties itself and the yells of the combetarge had reached, the Sultan's ears. He do - Mantled a report. IV then became a question who had the biggest pull with the Sultan. Abdurrezzakes proved the stronger. It is said. teat 'leaven was saved from banishment only through the influence of his mother, who aelcl an Important position in THE IMPERIAL HAREM, ire lost the favor of his royal master, vitich meant, of aourse, tliat it would not be long before he would be deprived et his job, too. This dict not satisfy Alidurrezzak. He stimmoned a family council of the Bedr Khans to determine what further stops should be taken to punish the man who had Slain •a member of the clan and insulted its dignity by attacking the house of its leader with a mob of the lowest menials in. Constantinople — scavengers. In the deliberations the leading part was taken by Abdueree- zak's uncle, Ali Shamil Pasha, military governor of Scutari, a man infunous even in Constantinople for his brutality and. unscrupulousness. AU Shama demanded a life for a life. Nothing less than the death of the pre- fect, he declared, could atone for the loss of the Kurd and the insult done the Bedr Khans. By his vehemence he carried the more timorous members of the council. with him. The vote for Redvan's death was unanimous. Abdurrezzake the suave and polished master of ceremonies, the adept in all the intricacies of Oriental etiquette, lost no time in carrying tbe sentence into effect. He ordered one of his servants, who had taken part in the fight' against the scavengers, to make the necessary preparations for the muraer of Redvan. This man engaged three other Kurds to help him, and they were taken into Abdurrezzak's .service at fifteen reid- jidies ($12.50) a month.- Assassins are cheap in Turkey. Redvan had a country villa at Guez Tepe, a village in the Scutari district. with a station on the Anatolian Rail- way, and it was decided to kill him oil his way from the train to his villa rather than in Constantinople. THE SPARSER POPULATION and the fact that the localetehops were under the command ot,Ali Shamil would, it was thought, render the com- mission of the murder easier. The four Kurds were dispatched to Guez Tepe after Abdurrezzak had provided revolvers, cartridges and money, and had personally pointed out riedvan to them and given them their instructions, It was no secret that the Behr Khns had sworn vengeance to the edeath against Redvan„ It is probable that through his police spies he obtained something more than an inkling of the precise nature of the plot against him. He appealed to the palace, for protec- tion, but the Sultan. still frowned upon him. Then„ Turk like, he resigned himself to his fate, after making hes will and disposing of most of his pro- perty. One evening, just after he had left the train at Guez Tepe and was on the way to his villa, he was set upon by the four Kueds. To make sure of his death, they fired nine bullets into him before they took to their heels. Apparently they had made no special plans for their escape, depending on the inf. eence of the heads of the Bedr Khans to get them off scot free. They were arrested after a short chase and lodged in one of the local guardhouses. Ali Stimuli tried to induce the police officer in cbarge to release them. Fail- ing in this, he exercised his authority as military commander of the district to get them lodged in the barracks. Then be provided them with geed fare and cigarettes and told them they needn't worry a bit, he would see them through. Of course, • the Sultan heard of the murder. He sent for Abdurrezzak. Re- lying on the strengtle end influence of the Bedr Khans to secure his immunity, the master of cereinonies boldly avowed his responsibility for the murder. He acknowledgec,. that it had been commit- ted by his servants at bis orders, and his only regret was that his official duties at the palace had pree-ented him from AVENGING IN PERSON the insult that the prefect had put upon tem. There followed a severe struggle be- tween the Bedr Khan faction at the palace and Lhe rest of the imperial en- leurege, as to how the matter should be dealt with. Abdul Humid has ene- mies enough in his domain:, end he did not want to add to their number by taking any decisive steps against a house so powerful as that of the Bedr Khans. He summoped a council of his principal mintsters. With one accord they 'urged the necessity of teeing \U. oroms action to vindicate the getpremacy of his own authority. Otherwise, they pointed out, his oWn prestige would sue. fel irretrievably, and I,he e Khans would be regarded as the real rulers of tilPi A.bdurrezzak swore, he would teach Red- This drecided the wavering Abdul yeas insolent epslart underling a les- Harald. Conmnced that relentless se - son. On some pretext he decoyed Ah- verity was his best policy, he acted med into his house, had him unmerci- with promptituda. Three days after fully bastinadoed, and placed him in Redvan Pasha met his death Abdorrez- ienominioUs confinement. %etc, Ali Shemil and all the leading Ahmed managed to get word of his members of the Bedr Khans were ar- sorry plight to his chief. Redvan was rested one night and lodged on board not the man to leave one of his stnunch- e ship. The four actual assaesins were est followere hi tho lurch. He did his tried and hanged. Their defense throws best to induce Abdurrezzak to set an illuminating light on the state of so - Ahmed free. He even offered to pay a cider in Turkey, "We were ordered to big sum ((. 0. D.) for Aluried's release. kill Redvan Pasha, nnd if we had not But Abdurrezzak's desire for revenge killed aim our master would have kiln was stronger • than hie eunidity. Ho ed us." refused to let Ahmed go. There Redvan Meanwhile, the leaders of the Beth.' tool: the mew into his own !lends. Ile Khans were conveyed to the fortress armed a number of the cite scavengers of Tripe% where they Were ,t'ried ixi with ettlba and revolvers and set them secret 'en the double charge of high L a effect Ahmed's deliverance. A live- treason and murder, and all sette one ty fight took place between the scaVen- were condemned. But before All Sha- gers and Abdurrezzak'e servants. One mil was exeouted he gave a sensational et the Klardus Was killed and several of exhibition of the savage that lurked be- nedveres men were wounded, but nee th the veneer of twentieth-century Ahmed connived to escape in the eon- civilization. While undergoing Mull- tustoft. • nallen in the presence of his judges he No public inmilay was held into the sprang at the Mt:aerator-general and matter, though everybody knew ot the killed him like a weasel by biting Min affair, Those entrusted with the en- In the throat. foroement, of the law in Constantinople And all these tragic happenings re - rawer think of troubling Inmportent of- eulted from Ahrhed Agee refusal to ficials for such a trifle as the death— use his pull to tey a etreteh of new accidental or oflterwise—of rs rinrS serving man. IR SUNDAY SCI1001, Pt•F.A.••••• INTERNATIONAL LESSON, OCT. 14. Lesson The Tell Virgins, Gold Text: Matt, 25. 13, THE LESSON WORD STUDIES. ti Note.—The text of the Revisea Ves. sion is used as a basis for these Waal Studies. A Longer Discourse.—Our leen pas- . sago for to -day is part of 'a longer dis• course of Jesus recorded in Chapters 24 and 25 of Matthew's narrative. This discourse'. contains (1) a prediction of the fall of Jerusalem, (2) a prediction of the end of the world, (3) a group of parables related to these predictions and to each other. In the parable of the ten virgins the main point is the ex- hoetation to Christian diseiples 10 per- petual vigilance and watchfulness le view 0/ the certainty . of the end of the world and the second coming of Christ. and the equal uncertainty of the time when these things shall occur. The in- terpretation of the details and lesser incidents of the parable must be kept subordinate to this main purpose, Verse 1. Then—The last day, just re- ferred to in the preceding verses. The kingdom of heaven—Here, the company of all those who hope for salvation through Christ, some of whom , as the parable teaches, may hope in vain. It is the, condition of the citizens of the kingdom . toto" which shall be likened unto the condition of ten vir- gins, the ten again being simply a con- venient number, as we might say a dozen or a score. Lamps — Shallow bowls containing oiled rope or cloth, and fastened on sticks, making a rather crude torch. Went 'forth to meet the bridegroom -- According to the Jewish custom the friends of the bridegroom conducted 'the bride to her husband's home, before the door of which, the bridegroom him- self met the procession and in person conducted the bride across the thresh- old. In earlier times (comp. Judg. 14. 10) it had been customary for the prin- cipal wedding feast and celebration to be held in the home of the bride. From the imagery of our parable it is not quite clear from which home the group of maiden e "went forth to meet the bridegroom." Some commentators in- sist thee we are to think of the home of the bride as the scene of festivities,. while ' others speak with equal confi- dence of the home of the groom. • 2. Five—The niamber is not intended to indicate anything as to the actual or exact proportion of foolish and wise virgins. We note that Jesus does nol say bad and good, but simply poihts out that five were prudent and exercised forelhoughl, while the other five were imprudent and thoughtless with regard to the future. 4. Took oil with their lamps—That is in separate vessels, for use ineease of an emergency. 5. The bridegroom tarried—A state- ment reflecting the true Orientalism ol the scene, punctuality not being an Oriental trait: They all slumbered and slept—Thert is no censure attached to their sleeping in itself. 7. Trimmed their lamps—which mean- while had burned low. The trimming consisted in realling them with oil and cleaning the wicks. 9. Peradventure—Perchance, perhaps; It may be. Not enough for us and you—The briaal procession and feast were still to be held and for these the light of the torches would be needed. The door was sbul—While they went to purchase oil the procession arrived and- the guests entered the hoes°. The door was then closed in order to avoid the danger arising from violent men. 13. Veatch, therefore—This is the im- pertant,point and principal teaching of the whole parable. - Ye know not the day nor the hour— "The Loeb of that servant shall come in a day when he expecleth not, and in an hour when he knoweth not" (Matt. 24. 50). FIERCE FIGHT WITH EAGLES. A chamois bunter named Hess had e desperate fight with eagles,gecently, as a narrow ledge overlooking a preci- pice in the mountains above F•ngelberg. Switzerland. He had located an eagle's nest, and climbed up alone withthe object of capturing the young birds. About thirty yards from the nest he laid down his rifle, which hindered his movements. As soon as he reached the nest, in which were Iwo eagles. the permit birds sweet down from n neigh- boring height and florcely attache+, him. For twenty minutes a desperate struggle took place, Hess defending him- self with a knife, expecting every mo- ment to be sweptl off the lodge. Al last Hess succeeded in killing the male bird and its mate fieW away. Hess, though bleeding from severe wounds. avelved safely at Engelberg .several hours later. PLANKS FOR YOUR -PLATFORM. Industry is the key to success, Take time to think, plan, and act. You have a place in the world. Find it. There's no tfme to begin like the pre - Sent. Ono experience is worth more than' te'ill'htellehOreibuilt to carry another man's cargo may capsize under yours. No orie has a right to make others unhappy in order to please. himself. Keep to the trail. Success lies in eon - Urinous effort along a certain line. Let thoroughness Chaettelerize every- thing you do. You can win in no other way. WAS ONCE. Tee minister was a great hand -shaker —shutting down like a vice. One day he shoOk tt boy's hand, and forgetting gave it an awful squeeZe as he said— "My dear little fellow, I hope you are pretty well to -day?" With tears in his eves the boy ae- pavement iri front of Abdtirrezzaje4 r.vered--"I was ti yeee shed: betide Inanaei with Inc." 4:11+411-14-1r44111-4**+0,447 Fashion H • BLOUSES WITH YOKES. There has been a definite change since last year in the position blouses ocou- ey, brought about by Ihe vogue of wholo. costumes in place of last year's stun- ning suits, relieved by the eheevest ansi most beautiful of blouses. No longer Li the blouse the inevitable acconapani- lire tve dres tiofadinyag aervfaeirrys.costuine, except 1314 the blouses that are left to us have been found plenty of nsa for. Most of them have yokes, introduced perhaps as the only part of the hand embroidery ' • that is on ninety-nine out a hundred 01 them. And the majority have the embroidery concentrated on the yolce, with sprays scattered upon the rest ot ttilaleabbloauasice, sleeves as well as both front The simplest treatment of all in mak- ing is to finish off the yoke with a small scallop --the same wee., simple kind that is in evidence upoh, nine out of ten pieces of lingerie that Paris sends over. The blouse itself is tucked a couple • inches below the edge, the tucks made so flne that in spite of their number the fullness is. controlled. Deep cuffs may end at the upper edge in the same sort of a scallop, from which the puff of the sleeve spreads out in tucks like those just below the yoke. Quite effective blouses are made with lace teeing the place (or minimizing the work, tit least) of . hand embroidery, When the former is the case the lace wanders down the front in some novel fashion. If just a touch cf embroidery is de- sired, the blouse is usually .quite elab- orately trimmed with lace, the insertion disposed so that there is just a small space in. front, high on the yoke, with, perhaps, two even smaller spaces upon the back, or upon the shoulders extend- ing over onto the back. Upon these spaces is embroidered a delicate spray usually, although sometimes a heavy - headed iose, with a bit of exquisite lace - for the centre, is used instead. What- ever the motif, it is invariably repeated upon the cuffs. Sueh a sleeve seems more individual —more as though the whole scheme of the making were planned before even a stitch of the embroidery was taken. Just a small motif on a cuff savors too much of the patterns which come all ready for making up—some of them rich enough, but many of them as nearly alike in their general style as if they, were machine -made and cut off the same piece. The collarless blouse is no longer seen, although the collarless dress—or a gown cut so slightly low as to seem little more than collarless—is in high favor with the younger element, who don such gowns for a dozen occasions wbere in seasons past nothing but a high -necked gown was peenussible. And there is very little blousing in front, the idea being to get the effect cf a loose blouse, while in reality every scrap of fullness is carefully considered and the blouse fitted with far more care than even those boasted that came out to wear with the tight -fitting tailor suits of a year ago. Black gowns, most of them of spang- led gauze, are much favored, for even- ing wear. • ele LONGER SKIRTS. With the dressier sort of suits have come out some that are veritable cos- tumes, the waist worn 1,11111 them so definite a part of the suit that the im- pression of unity is sharp and distinct. The skirts of suits are fitted smoothly about the hips, the circular skirt re- maining the favoriee this fall, as it did last, only this eetar's circular skirt shows the same down front and back, stitched and even welted to emphasize the 'fact that there is a seam. But you'll never find a woman resent- ing Mall There is notbin.g in fashions so altogether womanly and graceful as a trailing skirt, and never 4 woman who wouldn't cheerfully carry a skirt , for a mile or two for the exquisite plea- sure of dragging that long sweep of ma- terial after her over softly carpeted floors. Jackets have grown shorter, the long- est reaching about midway between hip and knee --that length, by the way, was seen on only a few of last year's suits, the ones whioli were really a year ahead of fashions. But beware of that length if you are short and generally "thinmye—almost any other figure can wear it, and a tall, elim woman is at henribeenrisne, 11.evalking suits have the slime skirt, which in nine cases out of ten is circular, like the longer ones. But, niter all, longer skirts are gaining in favor more and more every day. Of course it is a little early to "count the chickens," hut this seems to be the unanimous opinion at the present date, the question of hats, tailor things, furs and colors being about settled, though the "grande toilette" and evening dress revelations by Paquin. Doucet, Worth, Armand, Dociller, Perdoux et Cie, are none the less ,eagerly awaited. Hats will,be larger,. with wide, 'sweep- ing brims and a normal way of reeling on the head. Though there is still a *slight bandeau, with Mille arranged in 'the now Urne-honnred way, its office is' more to serve as a "cache peignee than to tilt the hat. What lilt there is is forward, so that the thin, flat brim de- scribes a beautiful circle above the brrsvnu.sual, the French idea of lightness comes fleet in constructing a hat. Be- cause of thole size, mane osinfillele burat millifters fashion I heir brims merely of enough layers' of tuille lon . ttsin opaque. These are stretched flatly over h Ae awlirriegbleteehnee.4ra a g ined from such a construction, little more then the edge or the brim is visible, the full tem o' shanter crown of velvet or silk cover- ing it on top, while beneath the puffed halt and fluffy hello of the bandeau ful- fill the. some Office. The elticeee gown ia still' in high , Invor, though mostly With (he fortunate peesessers of faultless figures.