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Exeter Advocate, 1906-5-17, Page 3NOTES AND COMMENTS The latest light on other days is illuminating the copper age, Was there a cropper age? Some of the wiseacres think there was, and that it, succeeded the stone age and preceded the age of bronze. Copper implements are most scarce. It is supposed that the copper age lasted a far shorter tiune than the bronze age, and that many of the cop, per implements were later melted down by the bronze workers. The copper im- plements are of more primitive form than 'i the great majority of bronze im- pleenents, and some of therm so closely approached the shape of pertain stone implements as to lead one to believe that they. were cast in molds which were made round actual stone implements. The bronze age tools show great , uni- formity in the proportionof tin . and copper in their alloy. Gold is. the most widely diffused metal and the one that was first known. But gold and silver played but a small part in the culture of the stone age. The discovery of smelting probably had its origin in the campfire. The primitive furnace was a small, shallow hole in the ground in which alternate layers of charcoal and ore were placed, and the copper and Lin furnaces of Ja- pan still retain this character. R is believed'by some that bronze implements were made from a copper ore contain• ing tin long before metallic tin was definitely added to copper tomake bronze. In Hungary an alloy of copper and antimony preceded that of copper and tin. Implements were frequently made of alloys of copper with lead, antimony, or nickel, or arsenic, but this was due to the use of inferior copper ores. Modern furnaces get rid of these purities, but the primitive furnaces did not. The discovery of bronze was as accidental as that of copper. Impure copper ores gave rise to various kinds of bronze, and experience proved which of these was best fitted for certain pur- poses. Observation and experiment led to the discovery that the tin impurity gave the best results, and tin was definitely added in the proportion that was found to be most serviceable. Tho conversation of fishes is carried on by sound production. It is an en- tirely erroneous idea to think of fishes as unable to make sounds. Voluntary sounds are produced by an effort of the will on the part of the fish. Putting aside all unnatural sounds which are ex- emplified in the herring when caught in the nets, the piscatory students have found evidence that fish can produce sounds by means of special vocal pow- ers. Some part of the bony skeleton is movable and it is made to rub or grind against some fixed part of the hard skeleton. The bones have rough sur- faces and by their rubbing set up a sound. The stickleback, which has been the subject of the earlier experiments, is a good illustration. In other fish a murmuring sound is produced by the pressure of the air upon the valves of the air bladder. In still other fish there are two little flexible spines, attached to which is a muscle that by contracting causes the spines to tap rapidly against the air bladder. This produces a sound like the roll of a drum. The sounds produced by the air bladder are ex- tremely varied, both in quality and loudness, but are not musical. 1 ",Nine, ten, a good fat hen," sitting len years, or a thousand hens sitting each on their fifteen eggs, would be re- quired to do the work of the new incu- bator, with a capacity of 15,000 eggs, just completed in Pembroke, N. Y. Partitions divide it into 100 com.part- . ments, each accommodating two trays. The trays have wire bottoms and hold seventy-five eggs each. `The incubator is heated by means of a coil .of eight steam pipes passing over the top of the egg chamber on one side and returning on the other. These pipes are connected at one end with a water tank and heater. The water flowing through the pipes is • heated to exactly the right. temperature, a thermostat attached to the stove opening and closing the nirafis to make this possible. The only atten- tion required by the healer is supplying it with coal night and morning. The thermostat is an expansion tank which stands over the heater. The tank is filled with oil in which is a float. As the heat of the furnace warms the water the water in the jacket surrounding the 'treater expands and the float rises. This ovement actin -dee a throttle attached to the float arm andi shuts the draft of the healer; another lever at the same time opens the meld air draft of the fur- eace. In' this tvay the temperature is Rulonua.lically regulatedwith extremely' Hem variation, the eggs being kept at €r temperature of 102 degrees Fahre theil. A second novel feature is that the heal of the eggs is regulated by raising and lowering then) hi the egg chamber, which is nearly a foot high inside, bur- lap separating it from the pipes. The tgg trays rest on double frames hinged Sy galvanized arms, . As the etuicics de - Ip ela tide trays are lowered on (hese anpirorts, the Crst drop being made ie six days, and others al, e intervals, Until '1 Art tiro teVertly=flr,st day the trays air•,. lee better -1i o. the ban r , tp110 f c Ibex. t 'till on t testing 1 WIIER] IS.TIIYBROTHER? The'' Power of Man for Good Is In Wide Sympathies And the Lord said unto Cain, Where i; Abel thy brother? And he said, 1 know not: am 1 my brother's keeper?- Genesis iv., 9. Emerson has said in one of his essays: "The power of man consists in the mu1- tltude of his affinities," And he might have added that this was the measure of a man's goodness. . . When a roan bas that something which draws men to him and impels him in sympathy and comprehension toward other men, then he has within him the -possibility of all that is best in life. When a man has that within him which turns him, in deliberate isolation of spirit, from (»"rose closer relationships which make for the mutual happiness of all, then he possesses the possibility of all that is worst in life. In the story of Cain and Abel is a lesson deeper and broader of applica- tion than the mere setting forth of the facts- of the first violentdeath at the hands of a murderous human being. The narrative bears out this interpre- tation. Cain and Abel bring their of- ferings to God. The nffering of the former is rejected -not because of what It consists of, but because sin and sel- fishness lie at the door. Cain's object was to use God for his selfish purposes, not to submit . himself to God's purposes. His religion was a gift to God by which he might exalt himself and GAIN SOMETHING; and when the possibility of gaining his solflsh end was denied, his brother whom he thought stood in the way, be- came the victim of his sordid purpose. Thus the history of Cain • is not the story solely of a single bloody incident, but the revelation of a soul's attitude toward life, the consequence which such a soul inflicts upon the world and the misery it brings upon itself. 1t depicts the type of man who chooses his path regardless of human affinities, determined that his power and happiness shall be attained by using God and men instead of serv- ing them. "Where is Abel, thy brother?" And he said: "I know not; am I my bro- ther's keeper?" All sin and misery are the outcome of a state of mind that has by progres- sive steps led to them. So Christ, read- ing the secret of men's hearts, attempted not to give a law, but an inspiration. 1t is not alone the knife, .or the deadly weapon, or the angry blow which lays Its victims low, but it's the spirit that breathes behind these and all forms of aggression -the spirit which says: "Tile earth is mine and the fruit of it, the joy and the happiness of it are all mine. Let others serve mo or take the conse- quences." Let my brother look out for hinfself. Am I his keeper? What danger, think you, we are under in this era in which we live? ' • THE CHIEF DANGER is the losing of our affinities. In this day of ambition and acquirement, when the work of each man becomes special- ized, the possibility of losing touch in sympathy with one another is immensely heightened. Never has the world need- ed more of love and of close relationship than it does to -day. We are our brother's keeper and Ie- sponsibie for him as he for us. His life is. a dear and precious possession for our lives. When our selfishness forgets his life and assails it, however indirect- ly, then if our conscience be not bur- dened we shall hear the voice of God whispering, "Where is thy brother?" The crimes, the sins, the miseries of the world, are not isolated facts; they spring from the prepossessions of men's souls, their unworthy aims and aspira- tions. For one catastrophe nature brings there are a thousand wrought of the unsound desires of the human heart. 11 we mellow our hearts and are kind, if we fortify our hearts for justice, if we cease to think the world is ours only 10 exploit, if we believe not that our offer- ings to God should be preferred to other men's, if we livein the spirit cf Jesus Christ, the world will know no human tragedies;' the mark of Cain shall be removed from it, and the service of every soul acceptable to Him who now asks the question, "Where is thy brother?" ANDREW F. UNDERHIL-L. *get* *** ******* HOME. t***********# FAVORITE CAKES. Pork Cake. - Chop together one pound each of fat salt pork and raisins; pour over these one pint of boiling water, add two cups of sugar, one cup of molasses, and two eggs, well beaten; rnix thoroughly, then sift in nearly five cups of sifted flour, two teaspoonfuls of cinnamon, one teaspoonful each , cloves, mace, and soda. Beat thor- oughly and bake in two tins, lined with buttered paper, about one hour. A slow oven is needed. Date Mullins. -Remove the stones from half a pound of dates and chop them; Leat them gradually into one-fourth a cup of butter, creamed, and mix with a well beaten egg. Alternately add one cup of milk and one pint of flour, sifted, with three level teaspoonfuls of bak- ing powder; beat thoroughly and bake nearly twenty minutes in a well but- tered muffin pan or a shallow tin pan. Walnut Cake. -One cup of sugar, four tablespoonfuls of butter, seven of sweet milk, one teaspoonful of corn starch, one and one-half cups of flour; three teaspoonfuls of baking powder, the whites 'of two eggs, well beaten, and one cup of chopped walnut meats. Mix the cornstarch and baking powder to- gether, stir the sugar and butter well together, add milk, then flour and whites of eggs. Boat thoroughly and alien put in the walnuts, well floured. Bake in quick oven and sprinkle half the nuts on top when iced. Tit Tat Toe Cake. - Beat four eggs light, then add a creenr made by beat- ing two and one -halt cups of sugar and one cup butter with one cup sweet milk, adding the milk' gradually to creamed butter and sugar, a large pinch r f salt, two teaspoonfuls of baking pow- der, sifted: with two and one-half cups of flour; divide the dough into three part; to one part add half cup of rai- sins, stoned and chopped, half cup cf currants, hall teaspoonful of cinnamon or nutmeg; for second layer add two teaspoonfuls of grated chocolate. one teaspoonful of vanilla. The last layer, or light one, should be flavored, with lemon; when baked put the chocolate .I layer on bottom, fruit next, light laver n top; frost the top, but not the sides. Ice Cream Cake. - Make a good sponge .cake, bake half an inch thick in jelly pans, and let ,hem get perfectly cold; take a pint of thickest sweet cream feat until it looks like ice cream, make sweet, and flavor with vanilla; blanch and chop a pound of almonds, stir info cream. and put thick between each lay- er. This is the queen of all cakes, Rice Cake. One cupted of butter, 1 two of sugar, two and one-fourth cf. rice flour, six eggs. the juice and :rind of ane lemon, Beat the butler fo a cream; cl teeen gradually' beat in the. sugar and add the lemon. Beat the whites and yolks separately and add them to the beaten s sugar and butter. Adel also the rice I flour. Pour into a shallow pan, in the depth of ahoul twa inches.. Bake from f thirty-five to fort,y�-five minutes in a l moderate oven. Naples Biscuit. Beat eight eggs. c light; acid to them one pound of flne while sugar and one pound of sifted wheat flour; flavor with Al half teaspoon- f fel -off snit and eesenre of lemon cr orange (lower water; heal 11 until it ris- n e5 in btuim:+s; bake in a quick oven. Dominos. -_. Cut pieces of cake into d oblong, pieces size of dominos, dip m II plain white frosting, and when •cold line and dot with melted chocolate, hese are pretty for children's parties. e 'S•nrlCshire lea Cakes. -- Six handfuls 1t f flour, one, egg, One cake yeast, a piece of lard about the size of two eggs, a little salt and about a pint of new mills. Mix the- yeast with a little sugar, flour, and water. Rub the lard into the flour, and when the yeast has risen ,:lir in with a little warm mills. Leave it rise before the fire, then stir it all to- gether with the rest of the milk, warm- ed, and'add the egg beaten up. Knead it well together and leave it to rise before the fire, but not too near; cover it with a cloth. When light,. knead it into cakes and bake in a moderate oven. THE CARE OF FURNITURE. When women realize more fully that their homes are a setting for themselves they will select and care for their fur- niture. There are many polishes, stains and glues to be had for little money. To be in proper condition a piece el furniture must shine as though just pol- ished. It can easily be made to do this if it is rubbed weekly with a mixture one- quarter vine gar and three-quarters pre- pared table top oil. Apply this. with a flannel, polish with a large piece, and finish polishing with a fresh flannel. A brisk sponging in cold water, immediately wiped off, Is said to restore the gloss to rosewood, when it has assumed a grey film. Natural finish willow and wicker are cleaned by using a scrubbing brush and r. warm suds of borax. These must be dried quickly in the sun if possible. Varnished or enameled wicker is dry cleaned by rubbing it hard with a swab of prepared chalk and very fine hard- wood sawdust, tied tightly in cheese- cloth. Carved wood can he brushed out often with a large, soft camel's hair paint Mush or a :swab. Very intricate and delicate' work will need the sand blast. Use fine tripoli and a hand bellows. The dust will fly back with the sand. Gilt furniture is cleaned with a cream of alcohol and sifted whiting. If a spot does not come off at once, touch it lightly with alcohol. Deep dirt or tarnish needs 10 be washed with borax suds, wiped dry and then covered with the whiting and allowed to dry on. Remove this with a stiff brush later and polish with a sale leather. If a frame is only specl:- led with tarnish this can be token off with alcohol on a flannel. Afterward polish with a chamois. Vermin in upholstery can be removed by injecting beneath the covers a solu- ron of white carbolic acid and tureen. t,ne, one-fifth being carbolic. Nothing is so destructive to furniture as too nwch dry furnace heat. It may l:irove helpful to keep a large bowl of water in the room so that the air may absorb moisture from it. SOME USEFUL HINTS. Brown boots wear longer, and become a better color, if bought of a natural int anti darkened with castor oil. Gloves will not split if you place thein between the folds of a towel, slightly ampcned, before putting them on. To keep apples I,}rrou tr t pp b he winter in a barrel, bore holes in the bottom and ides of the barrel, and store on a dry 10 florin a foot or more high. When boiling tough meat or an old owl add a pinch of soda to the water o make it tender and cook gently. It is not generally known that tin leaned with newspapers will •shine bet- ter than when cleaned with flannel. When washing greasy dishes add a ew drops of ammonia to the water, which makes the work quicker and tore thorough. - A leaf of sweat Or . rose geranium r•opped int) jelly imparts it delielous aver to it. To proleet the top of tables, dress-- rs, eta..., int a mat of rubber sheeting r white ajiclolh a little smaller Than the nen over or doily. I he hair and scalp may be'' cleaned by ,i# Ire salt rub, Loosen the hair, rub' the, scalp vigorously with sett, end brush thoroughly. This is cleansing as well as a tonic. Iron rust must be removed by rubbing oxalic (sheep sorrel) over the rusty Owe and then washing in alcohol (which wilt' remove grass stains), and finish by. good scrubbing in warm soapsuds. 1f you butter your custard cups be- fore pouring your custard in you will find they will wash very easily, as the custard does not, get baked on. Stains of fruits, vegetables, meats or drinks on table linen May be removed by persistently rubbing the spot in. sweet milk, Instead of putting tomatoes into hot water to loosen the skin when peeling them, try rubbing the skin with the fiat edge . of the knife. A piece' of soda the size of a pea in a quart of stewed rhubarb or gooseber- ries will reduce the amount of sugar re- quired with impairing the flavor in the least. The color may be entirely removed from a cotton dress that has faded by boiling in cream of tartar water. For red hands do not . wash them in either extremely hot or cold water. Sleep in gloves that are lined with almond paste, made by mixing powdered oat- nneal and almond oil into a paste of moderate thickness. Gloves should also be: worn outdoors, In, cases of whooping -cough a mills diet is necessary. Two or three pints may be taken daily, but not very much at a. time should be given. Vomiting is very frequently a serious complication in this disease; but however unwilling the child may be to take food, he must be made to do so in order to keep up his strength. 11 the vomiting be very severe, solids are better than food in a liquid form. a t;. HIDDEN GAMBLING DENS POLICE ARE OFTEN PUZZLED ROW TO GET INTO THEM. The Elaborate Precautions Which Are Taken to Avoid Unexpected Raids. The police will tell you that there is hardly a town of any size in the country where gambling dens do not exist, and also that there es no illegal practice harder to cope with than this form of secret gambling. Usually the club is to all outward appearance purely a social concern, and it is most difficult for the police to get proof that there is more below the surface. Absolute proof of guilt must be ob- tained before a raid can be made, and even after such proof has been secured it is next to impossible to surround the plane without alarming the gamblers. Almost invariably these latter have a se- cret means of retreat, and while the po- lice are breaking in the gamblers make gc'od their escape. The precautions taken by, the keeper or keepers of the gambling club are endless. In the first place, care is tak- en that the front door shall . be solid and secure. In the case of • a club raid- ed in New York, the front door was completely plated with steel, while fold- ing steel gates were locked across the front windows. , • STEEL -CLAD DOORS. Having passed the front door the visi- tor finds himself in a passage with a couple of men on guard, and beyond them another heavy door. Even when the second door is passed there is no sign of law breaking. A club -room, more or less comfortable, with a bar, and men eating and drinking -that is all there Is to be seen. The card or roulette room is usually upstairs, and in one case known to the writer it would have puz- zled any stranger to find the stairs, so cleverly was the door leading to them concealed behind what appeared tb be a massive sideboard. In this case there is still another man on guard outside the room where the gambling is going on, and, to make as- surance doubly sure, there were peep- holes in the door itself, so that any new comers might be scrutinized before be- ing admitted. POLICE BEAT THEM: Irr addition to all these precautions there are others even more ingenious. 1st one case a man was kept on duty on the roof to watch the street. If ue saw any suspicious appearance he at once warned those below through a speaking tube which terminated in a gas bracket in the card -roam. When such a warming was heard, all the gambling utensils were at once swept away and safely concealed in a secret hiding place cleverly built in behind the lire grate. Yet even dais club, which was in the West End of London, was eventually raided. The police succeeded in intro- ducing a spy who learnt all the secrets of the place, so that the inspector was able at once to open the hiding piaci,. Nearly 30 arrests were made on this oc- casion.. ON BORDER LINE. As most people are aware, the legis- lation of any country ceases on the high seas -that is, at a three-mile limit from the shore. On more than one oc- cnsion use has been made of this fact to fit up steamships as gambling°shops and move them round from point, to print. The best known instance was, perhaps, the Eleanore, which was own- ed by an American, and which was fin- ally brought to book at Trieste, on the Adriatic. Another dodge practised on the Be1- gia.n frontier was to build a house half Belgium, half in Germany, and by shifting from one room to another defy in turn the 'police of mach country. DANGER IN THE BANGLE. Tight. Glove Fad is a Peril to Blood Cir- culation. Fashion's decree that smart women must wear gloves of elbow length without a wrinkle has brought into vogue a new pattern bracelet to hold the glove in position, called a slave 'bangle, and medical men pi'ophaey a 'surge, increase in. diseases of the circu- latory system, "It is greatly to be deplored' tint ,we= men are -wearing a tight bend* "e round Wear arras'," a physician said, 'J ItelYe . eatietheehiellieente,. P141, , tom. gloves and *ow below the eitsow a,. deep weal where tate bangle had bit- ter in. l 'hate hied to instill fear of varicose veins and the .attendant miser,. ter, into their hearts, but I find that a Nat that the new fashion may result in a woman's hands becoming as red a$ hes' kitchen maid's has in many cases proved more effectual." THE SUNDAY SCHOOL INTERNATIONAL LESSON, MAY 2.0. Lesson VIII. Death of Iobn the Bap- tist. Golden Text: Epb. 5. 18. LESSON WORD STUDmS. Note. -The text of the Revised Version isused as a basis for these Word Studies. Intervening Events. -Several events intervene between the last lesson and this one. Returning from the country of the Gerasenes, across the lake to Caper - slam, . Jesus was welcomed by a great multitude who had heard of his mar. velous works. Shortly afterward he raised from the dead the daughter of Jairus, a ruler of the synagogue (Mark 5. 21.43), after the account of which we should doubtless insert into Luke's narrative the stories of the healing of the two blind men and of the dumb de- moniac told in Matthew 9. 27-34. The rejection. at Nazareth reported in Matt. 13. 54-58 and Mark 6. 1-6 was doubtless a second event similar to but not iden- tical with the rejection at Nazareth re- corded in Luke 4. 16-30, the former be- longing apparently to the. earlier part of his ministry. This second rejection at the hands of his own townsmen at Nazareth was followed by a preaching tour (the fourth, or rather the third con- tinued) in Galilee (Mark 6. 6; Matt. 9. 35); and the sending of the twelve on their . first independent mission tour (Mark 6. 7-13; Matt. 10. 1-34; Luke 9. 1-6). It was upon the return of the twelve from this tour that word was brought to Jesus by the disciples of John the Baptist of their master. John the Baptist is called Elijah (Matt. 3. 3), the forerunner of Christ (Ise. 40. 3; Mal. 3. 1), "a burning and a shining light (John 5. 35). He was a son of Zacharias and Elisabeth, of the priestly tribe (Luke L 5); preached and baptized in the wilderness (Matt. 3. 1, Luke 3. 2); baptized Jesus (Matt. 3. 13); reproved Herod An.tipas (Matt. 14. 4; Mark 6. 18); was beheaded by Herod and hurled by his disciples (Matt. 14, 10-12). Jesus calls him the greatest among those born of women (Matt. 11. 11; Luke 7. 28). a Verse 14. Herod -Herod Antipas, the tetrarch of Galilee. His official residence was at Tiberias, on the southwestern shore of the lake. 15. Elijah -The prophet Malachi had -foretold the return of Elijah : "Behold I will send you Elijah the prophet before the great and terrible day of Jehovah come (Mal. 4. 5)." Others said -The fame of both Jesus and John the Baptist was widespread, the opinions concerning both were di- verse. - A prophet, even as one of the pro- phets -A prophet, yet not an ordinary prophet, but one of the great and well- known ancient, prophets. 16. John is risen -Even so wicked- a man as Herod could not ,escape the compunctions of a guilty conscience, and it was natural for him, with this consciousness of guilt resting upon his mind, to behold in any and every pure and holy man and worker of miracles the reembodineent of this same John whom Ile bad caused to be beheaded. 17. The remaining verses, 17-29, are really parenthetical to the main narra- tive of Mark. They are inserted to ex- plain the allusions to Herod's fancy and fear mentioned in verses 14-16. Bound him in prison -Probably in the dismal dungeon of the Castle Machaerus, known also- as the "Black Fortress," and situated on the eastern coast of the Dead Sea, one of the palaces of Herod. Herodias, his brother Philip's wife- She was also the niece of both her hus- band's, being the daughter of Aristo- hulus, another of the sons of Herod the Great. As Gould has pointed out : "The marital relations of the Herodian family were a most extraordinary mixture, though belonging to the general license of the age. This is one of the places where the gospels bring us into contact with the Gentile world, the Herodians being Gentile in their extraction and spirit, though nominally Jews in their religion, and the note of that Gentile world was open vice and profligacy, while of the Jewish leaders it was hypo- eris21y." • . A • convenient day --An opportune moment for the carrying out of her pur- pose. 22. The daughter. of Ilerodias herself came in and danced -An almost unpre- cedented thong for women of rank or evert of respectability. She pleased Herod -Better, it pleased Herod. that is, the dancing. 23. Sware-Swore. Compare the oath of Ahasuerus to Queen Esther. Esther 5. 3. 24, And she went out, and said- - Lilerally, and she, having gone out, said. 25. Straightway : with haste - The daughter evidently partook of the mothers nature and tastes. The 'chaste of, the women was lest the kings order should cool, it being well known to them that the granting of the request lhey were about to make was entirely con- trary to the king's own desire. Platter --The word charger, used in. the Authorized Version, has become entirely obsolete in this sense, though at one time it meant just what our word plat- ter now means. 29. His disciples -The disciples of John, some of whom later became the diseiplee of Jesus, "Tp.:his" said the school friend , ,nd who had �, not Seen her Mr ayear--• flus, is the.:gtrt who vowed to me that. she never would belong to any man. I dont," said she Who had been married some few Church. belts are necessary to remind months; aIle belongs to IAC." some people Uiat they have x• „glop, 4+444714144+1114441 Fashion Hints. t 44+++44-1-14.144+444+4144•11 SUMMER FASHIONS. It would seem as though the season styles must be quite conclusively s tied before May -day, and so they ar a general way. All white gowns a shown,' ranging from the mulisprinec& lingerie gown with hand-embroidere panels and pastel -colored ribbon gird sashes for debutantes, to the mor elaborate white gown of lace' for th matron, built over a chiffon or thi satin foundation and accompanied bz the little lace coat, A new model for such a lace gow shows a princess design with the hend French chocheted lace flounce separate and applied.. by hand to a round thread lace -net foundation. The coat accpm ponying is designed along the lines of tation of the later Directoire mode. ' is made to shape in one cleverly curved piecetitan's, cutaway, but is really an odaA with medallions of sheer hand embroidered linen adorning the iron curves, and also placed upon the top o each short sleeve. The coat edges an sleeves, trimmed with curved motifs o Richelieu plaited Valenciennes lace, illustrate the prevailing taste for Inc combinations and show the value of simple lace like Valenciennes to bran out the fuller beauty of the heavier lac which it frames. But lace gowns do not occupy all o fashion's favor, prominent as they ar this season. Chiffon cloth, a more sim ple and • yet most effective material, very much in demand. It is. now bein shown in printed paterns, only :a gow length of each, with wide, self -colored! flower bands; these are ` already copie in mousselines, organdies and mulls Built over linings of contrasting color they produce a gown of strikingly har monious-.and artistic beauty. Nets in any of the plain pastel shade remain favorites and are still very goo style, This is not to be wondered at for there are few materials as sheer an fluffy that retain their freshness as Ion and as well. An old friend in a new and vastly im =line guise is a kind of line tha has taken to itself the virtue of bein moisture -proof; that is, it stands ser vice without crushing and matting with the first change of the barometer Since there is.no material so airy as' maline, it is natural that this new practical form of it should lead to i very general use in piety frocks for debutantes and i in bridesmaid desmoid and flow er girl costumes. It is most successful) combined with heavier nets, being ap plied in the form of full ruches, band ing skirt and bodice at intervals and ar wide ruche -edged sash attached to a: folded girdle. Double ruffles shirred through the centre formed an effective trimming to a bridesmaid frock of or gandie printed in huge tea roses, th new material being of 'the deepest ros shade. - Vellings showing revivals of thesomewhatold round, thread -woven meshes, somewhat resembling •-grenadines, are quite new and wonderfully pretty. They will take any amount of fluffy trimming, as a new Francais model of coral veiling evidences. It is made over black and white striped louisine, with the veiling appliqued with panels of Richelieu* plaited point d'esprit, finished with deep coral -colored velvet ribbon. The bodice, bouffant with more of the point d'esprit plaitings, ' is prettily strapped with velvet ribbons to suggest the sus., pender motif already becoming a favor- ite finish for high girdled gowns. For semi -dress the latest Parisian idea shows a white Irish lace blouse, the lower edge of which is annlied flatly upon the outside of the high, folded silk girdle which accompanies the silk, sun- ray plaited skirt. The lace is not brought to a straight edge, but tacked in graceful points in - such fashion as to. dispose effectually of, the straight top line of the girdle so displeasing to many. In .all cloth suits the lighter color ef- fects are tuned to harmonize with the advent of warmer days.; They are shown in light tan, gray and cream -colored henriettas, serges, English mohairs and Other lightweight cloths. So soft are these fabrics that some sort of facing is necessary in the skirls, and thin hair - cloth is used to good advantage, as it holds its shape perfectly with the least possible weight. A slight stiffening of this same hairclotil is used to good ads vantage upon the edge of the loose little straight -front coats and again for the proper niaintenanoe of,the velvet -faced collars and cuffs. Another new feature which these light cloth suits repeat is the dainty coat lin- ing of all-over embroidered lawn or batiste, seen earlier in the season upon a few of the dark sills street suits sent from France. Apart from the attractive- ness of the idea lies a practical side, foe these linings are merely lightly tacked to the coat with ribbon -run heading. and can be removed at will for cleans- ing purposes. There's many another suggestion con,. tamed in the present broad trend of style that could be evolved from scraps of past fineries. A good.idea was worked out on an after -Easier sailor hat of fine white straw. Around ite crown was wound" a long disused flat Chain or necklace of fine violet and green beads, sewn to a foundation of cream -dotted Chantilly lace. The violet note repeated itself in a cluster of Marie Louise violets hugging three small' pink roses within its bunched Centre. in etr re, re d le e e n. • di a t f e a g e e e g rf d d g 1 g • is r e e CARE OF -YOUR UMBRELLA. Umbrellas should always be set 'to dry open, ,with handle on floor, If allowed. to dry shut up the . moisture stands se long at the tap it rots the silk and rusts the wires. Bo not keep an um- brella in its case or rolled when in the house, as the silk, thus tightly creased, soon cuts. into holes, In rolling up an umbrella for its case grasp it>,e ends of the frame rods tightly with one hand near the handle, find roll horn the oppo- site end with the other hand; unless the frame is thus held ire place, It is trvioted and loosened in the rolling processor^. •